1 cup over a 100G tank is not a lot, you need a gravity meter to check for
the level amount of change the salt is making. While the fish are out you
can dose the tank high, and before returning the fish you can do a water
change or 2 to bring the salt/gravity levels back down. I am not sure of the
levels that a angle can tolerate, fresh water is 1.000 and salt water is
1.022 (or so), a 4 foot tank uses about 10kg to get to sea water specs.
Adding salt is assuming the bacteria or whatever is not salt tolerant.

Note: A cheap source of salt used for temporary water conditioning is pool
salt, it's only a few dollars for a very large bag. It's not very clean, so
don't use it for your fish. Use it to aid in killing off the bacteria/fungus
problem, then change out the tank water.

No matter what you do, your filter is going to cope it full on. Before doing
much to the main tank, keep some old filter material safe and wet and after
the main tank has been cured you can return the old filter material back to
the filters then start by adding your filter cycling bacteria or what ever
brand you use to help cycle you tank.

You also have to look into what started it all off, was it water temp
changes (maybe 1 or more deg in less then 24 hours), if so find a way to get
a more stable water temp. If it's water quality, be it ammonia, or nitrites
and nitrates then check that your filters are clean most of the time.

Under gravel filters are my favourite, some don't like them, but if you ask
me the tank water always looks clearer. Anyhow, you need a good thick bed of
gravel in my opinion, fine and course gravel. For such a large tank I'd have
one section of the bottom that isn't affected by the water flow from the
UGF. The important thing to remember with running a UGF, you much do gravel
cleaning. I find that you get the 'Old Tank Syndrome' faster if you don't
clean it good. Once a year at least I siphon out the gravel into buckets and
wash them well with a garden hose.

I don't know a lot about where they start or why, but like most nasty stuff
they like the areas where waste settles, so thats the bottom of the tank and
the filters. And they are the places you need to pay attention to.

For hang on filters I once tried an experiment but adding a drain pipe to
the bottom of the filter closed off by a vavle, once in a while i'd open the
valve and dump the water from it removing the waste rather fast, it was much
easier in the long term for filter cleaning, but I sold that tank and set-up
and never remade the same set-up, I guess I should as it was very effective.
If was very easy to look at the side of the filter and see any waste buildup
and just give the valve a quick turn and it was all gone.

"Sir Douglas Cook" wrote in message
...
"36 hours into Fin Rot removal"

Thank for your information NetMax.
So far I have removed all the plants (floating type).
I am now treating the Angelfish for "Fin Rot".
With, Maroxy and Maracyn... for 5 days in many sick tanks
As I have 6 pair so that's six sick tanks,,, (say that three times fast,
;-)
NetMax gave me the impression that after 5 days I should do normal
water changes to the sick tanks for another 9 days so that I can give the
main 100 gallon tank a full two weeks of no life.

The main 100 gallon tank has a simple UGF.
I have raised the heat as far as my heater can take it
which is 86 degrees. I have also added One whole
cup of aquarium salt. And I am continuing to do
water changes.

Although, I am thinking that I will do a major cleaning today,
I was thinking that I'll add some bleach to the main tank.
(Bleach kills everything)

But this brings up many questions?
Should I?
How much Bleach for a 100 gallon?
Could it break down or weaken the silicone?
Do I add the Bleach to a full tank or a dry tank?
How do I make sure it is save to return the Angels? (bleach free tank)

Thank you for your help in advance,

And of course Thank you for your Prompt Replies!!!!!!

Note: One of my sick tanks was cloudy this morning
so I did a 50% water change.

--
Sir Douglas Cook

http://www.greyspace.bravehostNOSPAM.com/
Remove "NOSPAM" for correct address
London Ontario Canada
Aquarium Maintenance Man for Hire


"NetMax" wrote in message
...
It's a roll of the dice. While it'll certainly depend on whether the
origin was fungal or bacterial, the probability of re-occurrence does
decrease with time. After only 5 days of isolation, with cured
Angelfish, I'd guess your odds were 80% for re-occurrence. After 2
weeks, your odds might still be well above 50%. Increasing the
temperature in the 100g will help, but again, it's degrees of
probability, that your pathogen will react negatively to low heat. Salt
works too, but the concentration has to be considerable.

Treating the whole tank is the only 100% effective way to avoid
reoccurrence, but a tank without fish can be treated without needing
antibiotics (ie: bleach dip, salt, dehydration, scalding water etc). I
usually take a middle road, doing some degree of cleaning (depending on
the severity & treatability of the disease) ie: water changes, gravel
vacuuming, changing filter media, making sure there is nothing alive to
carry the disease vector. If there are no plants, than a hot water
rinse
is easy. If plants, bleach dip or leave them. Then I'll pick a healthy
fish to be the 'canary'.

Antibiotics are typically 3 to 5 dosages on alternate days, with option
to repeat entire treatment 3 or 4 times. By treating the fish off-line,
I find 1 treatment usually effective, while in-tank, 2 treatments are
more typical. Moving them back into the main tank, I might put in a
single day's dosage and then avoid water changes for a week or two while
keeping them under observation. It's really a crap shoot, and you play
it as you go along. Stress kills fish and medications and tank moves
are
also stressful. Strategy may be determined by the value of the fish,
while daily decisions are made according to observations (appetite,
colour, symptoms etc).

Perhaps Frank in a.a will have some ideas on how to sterilize a 100g
planted(?) tank without using antibiotics or destroying the plants.
--
www.NetMax.tk

"Sir Douglas Cook" wrote in
message ...
Thanks for the Prompt Reply,
You made me laugh a couple of times,,,
Yes, it is my Angels that I am worried about.

So is treating the whole main tank, the only way to avoid
reoccurrence?

Many Thanks in advance.

--
Sir Douglas Cook

http://www.greyspace.bravehostNOSPAM.com/
Remove "NOSPAM" for correct address
London Ontario Canada
Aquarium Maintenance Man for Hire


"NetMax" wrote in message
...
"Sir Douglas Cook" wrote in
message ...
I have a 100 gallon fresh water tank with 12 angelfish, or 6
breeding
pair.
I discovered that I have a couple that stayed up in the corner, at
the
time
I thought it was just what fish do, territorial and stuff.

Weeks later I noticed their fins starting to look as if they are
melted.

Yesterday, I removed all the angels and put them in a sick tank
and I am now treating them for "Fin Rot".
With, Maroxy and Maracyn...

My question is about the Main tank,
I have removed the plants and turned up the heater to 86 decrees
and
added
a hand full of aquarium salt.

My question is what should I have done, if anything to make sure
that
there is nothing nasty in the main tank when I return my angels
after
five
days
of the sick tank???????????????

Many Thanks in advance
--
Sir Douglas Cook


Your tank or a customers? The best way to wipe out bacterial
infections,
is to treat the main tank. However, the fastest way to cure your
fish is
to get them out and treat them in new water, so ymmv. I've never
read
any reference to the time it takes for bacteria to die-off in an
empty
tank. All sterilizing techniques will also wipe out your biological
filtration, and most delicate plants. I've sometimes used a
combination
of massive water changes, gravel vacuuming and changing all filter
media
(for planted tanks). Unplanted tanks are much easier. Fin rot
might
be
fungal or bacterial. If fungal, it might have coincided with
something
else parasitic. This fungus/parasite combo is a bit easier to
eradicate
that a stubborn bacterial fin rot, so again ymmv.

Personal advice (and not backed by any documentation), some of these
diseases are very species specific. There is a good chance that
another
type of fish would be unaffected if dropped into the 100g right now,
and
if the Angels were cured in the hospital tank, that they would
relapse in
the 100g. *I hate fish diseases*. Whatever your strategy, you might
need
to go one last round of medication after you move the cured Angels
back
into the 100g, just be prepared and watching for it. On the up
side,
their immune system will be in far better shape for a gentle round
2,
if
it occurs.
--
www.NetMax.tk