The cuttings are just "sticks" with little or no branching. When you remove
them from the ground at springtime, you unbundle them and plant them in a
growing tray or individual pots. The signal to remove them from the ground
is to watch for swelling of the buds. Don't depend upon bud break of the
mother plant, since it is well rooted and probably much earlier than the
cuttings. I have never planted hardwood cuttings individually because I
consider it uneconomical to do so. With every bundle of cuttings, you must
expect that at least 25% won't make it. Probably more. If I end up with
50% live cuttings, I feel that I've done well.
If you're thinking about rooting an individual branch, you'd be better off
air layering rather than treating it as a hardwood cutting.
Marty
----- Original Message -----
From: "Beckenbach, Jay"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 2004 8:27 AM
Subject: [IBC] Timing Dilemma
Marty, I don't do much propagation so your description of hardwood cutting
treatment confuses me.
If you bundle 6-8 together, you'd get a multi-stem plant unless you
re-plant
individually in the spring. Is re-planting the proper procedure? If so,
what signal do you use for timing, bud break of the parent plant? Have
you
tried individual hardwood cuttings so as to avoid the re-planting or
multi-stem configuration? TIA - jay
Jay Beckenbach - Melrose, FL - Zone 8b/9a -
-----Original Message-----
From: Marty Haber ]
I divide cuttings into two groups: hardwood & softwood. I do hardwood
cuttings in the fall after leaf-drop. Procedu cut pencil sized
branches
with sharp knife at 45o angle. Dip in Root-tone. Shake off excess.
Bundle
6 to 8 together.
Plant in prepared bed at 45o angle about 1/2 way down the length. Mark
with
stake so you can find them in the spring.
Softwood cuttings: Wait until new shoots emerge in spring. Remove all
but
3-5 leaves. Cut at 45o angle. Apply Root-tone. Plant indiviually in a
flat, using sharp sand or Perlite. Keep damp, but not soggy. Protect
flat
whenever night temp. is below 40oF.
I find hardwood cuttings much more reliable than softwood, and less care
is
necessary in growing them. You will find that some of them don't root
over
winter, but form a hard scab over the wound. Don't give up on these.
Plant
them as you would softwood cuttings, and watch for bud formation. Very
often the opening of the buds will trigger root growth.
So the answer to your question is -
try hardwood cuttings; and keep them outdoors! Freezing won't hurt them.
Marty
----- Original Message -----
From: "Iris Cohen"
The other night, at Bill's auction, I bought a 3-gallon 'Arakawa' maple.
It
needs major pruning & styling. One expert said to work on deciduous trees
in
the winter when the leaves are off so you can see what you are doing.
However,
since it is not a common variety, I wanted to save the cuttings for my
club.
Bill said the best time to take cuttings is in June. Any way I can
compromise?
Would it be possible to prune the tree in February or March, when the sap
starts running, and root the cuttings under lights or in a greenhouse?
Iris,
Central NY, Zone 5a, Sunset Zone 40
"If we see light at the end of the tunnel, It's the light of the oncoming
train."
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