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#2
14-09-2004, 01:27 PM
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Marty, I don't do much propagation so your description of hardwood cutting
treatment confuses me. If you bundle 6-8 together, you'd get a multi-stem plant unless you re-plant individually in the spring. Is re-planting the proper procedure? If so, what signal do you use for timing, bud break of the parent plant? Have you tried individual hardwood cuttings so as to avoid the re-planting or multi-stem configuration? TIA - jay Jay Beckenbach - Melrose, FL - Zone 8b/9a - -----Original Message----- From: Marty Haber ] I divide cuttings into two groups: hardwood & softwood. I do hardwood cuttings in the fall after leaf-drop. Procedu cut pencil sized branches with sharp knife at 45o angle. Dip in Root-tone. Shake off excess. Bundle 6 to 8 together. Plant in prepared bed at 45o angle about 1/2 way down the length. Mark with stake so you can find them in the spring. Softwood cuttings: Wait until new shoots emerge in spring. Remove all but 3-5 leaves. Cut at 45o angle. Apply Root-tone. Plant indiviually in a flat, using sharp sand or Perlite. Keep damp, but not soggy. Protect flat whenever night temp. is below 40oF. I find hardwood cuttings much more reliable than softwood, and less care is necessary in growing them. You will find that some of them don't root over winter, but form a hard scab over the wound. Don't give up on these. Plant them as you would softwood cuttings, and watch for bud formation. Very often the opening of the buds will trigger root growth. So the answer to your question is - try hardwood cuttings; and keep them outdoors! Freezing won't hurt them. Marty ----- Original Message ----- From: "Iris Cohen" The other night, at Bill's auction, I bought a 3-gallon 'Arakawa' maple. It needs major pruning & styling. One expert said to work on deciduous trees in the winter when the leaves are off so you can see what you are doing. However, since it is not a common variety, I wanted to save the cuttings for my club. Bill said the best time to take cuttings is in June. Any way I can compromise? Would it be possible to prune the tree in February or March, when the sap starts running, and root the cuttings under lights or in a greenhouse? Iris, Central NY, Zone 5a, Sunset Zone 40 "If we see light at the end of the tunnel, It's the light of the oncoming train." ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Evergreen Gardenworks++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
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#3
14-09-2004, 01:27 PM
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Marty, I don't do much propagation so your description of hardwood cutting
treatment confuses me. If you bundle 6-8 together, you'd get a multi-stem plant unless you re-plant individually in the spring. Is re-planting the proper procedure? If so, what signal do you use for timing, bud break of the parent plant? Have you tried individual hardwood cuttings so as to avoid the re-planting or multi-stem configuration? TIA - jay Jay Beckenbach - Melrose, FL - Zone 8b/9a - -----Original Message----- From: Marty Haber ] I divide cuttings into two groups: hardwood & softwood. I do hardwood cuttings in the fall after leaf-drop. Procedu cut pencil sized branches with sharp knife at 45o angle. Dip in Root-tone. Shake off excess. Bundle 6 to 8 together. Plant in prepared bed at 45o angle about 1/2 way down the length. Mark with stake so you can find them in the spring. Softwood cuttings: Wait until new shoots emerge in spring. Remove all but 3-5 leaves. Cut at 45o angle. Apply Root-tone. Plant indiviually in a flat, using sharp sand or Perlite. Keep damp, but not soggy. Protect flat whenever night temp. is below 40oF. I find hardwood cuttings much more reliable than softwood, and less care is necessary in growing them. You will find that some of them don't root over winter, but form a hard scab over the wound. Don't give up on these. Plant them as you would softwood cuttings, and watch for bud formation. Very often the opening of the buds will trigger root growth. So the answer to your question is - try hardwood cuttings; and keep them outdoors! Freezing won't hurt them. Marty ----- Original Message ----- From: "Iris Cohen" The other night, at Bill's auction, I bought a 3-gallon 'Arakawa' maple. It needs major pruning & styling. One expert said to work on deciduous trees in the winter when the leaves are off so you can see what you are doing. However, since it is not a common variety, I wanted to save the cuttings for my club. Bill said the best time to take cuttings is in June. Any way I can compromise? Would it be possible to prune the tree in February or March, when the sap starts running, and root the cuttings under lights or in a greenhouse? Iris, Central NY, Zone 5a, Sunset Zone 40 "If we see light at the end of the tunnel, It's the light of the oncoming train." ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Evergreen Gardenworks++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
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#4
14-09-2004, 03:00 PM
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The cuttings are just "sticks" with little or no branching. When you remove
them from the ground at springtime, you unbundle them and plant them in a growing tray or individual pots. The signal to remove them from the ground is to watch for swelling of the buds. Don't depend upon bud break of the mother plant, since it is well rooted and probably much earlier than the cuttings. I have never planted hardwood cuttings individually because I consider it uneconomical to do so. With every bundle of cuttings, you must expect that at least 25% won't make it. Probably more. If I end up with 50% live cuttings, I feel that I've done well. If you're thinking about rooting an individual branch, you'd be better off air layering rather than treating it as a hardwood cutting. Marty ----- Original Message ----- From: "Beckenbach, Jay" To: Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 2004 8:27 AM Subject: [IBC] Timing Dilemma Marty, I don't do much propagation so your description of hardwood cutting treatment confuses me. If you bundle 6-8 together, you'd get a multi-stem plant unless you re-plant individually in the spring. Is re-planting the proper procedure? If so, what signal do you use for timing, bud break of the parent plant? Have you tried individual hardwood cuttings so as to avoid the re-planting or multi-stem configuration? TIA - jay Jay Beckenbach - Melrose, FL - Zone 8b/9a - -----Original Message----- From: Marty Haber ] I divide cuttings into two groups: hardwood & softwood. I do hardwood cuttings in the fall after leaf-drop. Procedu cut pencil sized branches with sharp knife at 45o angle. Dip in Root-tone. Shake off excess. Bundle 6 to 8 together. Plant in prepared bed at 45o angle about 1/2 way down the length. Mark with stake so you can find them in the spring. Softwood cuttings: Wait until new shoots emerge in spring. Remove all but 3-5 leaves. Cut at 45o angle. Apply Root-tone. Plant indiviually in a flat, using sharp sand or Perlite. Keep damp, but not soggy. Protect flat whenever night temp. is below 40oF. I find hardwood cuttings much more reliable than softwood, and less care is necessary in growing them. You will find that some of them don't root over winter, but form a hard scab over the wound. Don't give up on these. Plant them as you would softwood cuttings, and watch for bud formation. Very often the opening of the buds will trigger root growth. So the answer to your question is - try hardwood cuttings; and keep them outdoors! Freezing won't hurt them. Marty ----- Original Message ----- From: "Iris Cohen" The other night, at Bill's auction, I bought a 3-gallon 'Arakawa' maple. It needs major pruning & styling. One expert said to work on deciduous trees in the winter when the leaves are off so you can see what you are doing. However, since it is not a common variety, I wanted to save the cuttings for my club. Bill said the best time to take cuttings is in June. Any way I can compromise? Would it be possible to prune the tree in February or March, when the sap starts running, and root the cuttings under lights or in a greenhouse? Iris, Central NY, Zone 5a, Sunset Zone 40 "If we see light at the end of the tunnel, It's the light of the oncoming train." ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Evergreen Gardenworks++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Evergreen Gardenworks++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
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#5
14-09-2004, 03:00 PM
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The cuttings are just "sticks" with little or no branching. When you remove
them from the ground at springtime, you unbundle them and plant them in a growing tray or individual pots. The signal to remove them from the ground is to watch for swelling of the buds. Don't depend upon bud break of the mother plant, since it is well rooted and probably much earlier than the cuttings. I have never planted hardwood cuttings individually because I consider it uneconomical to do so. With every bundle of cuttings, you must expect that at least 25% won't make it. Probably more. If I end up with 50% live cuttings, I feel that I've done well. If you're thinking about rooting an individual branch, you'd be better off air layering rather than treating it as a hardwood cutting. Marty ----- Original Message ----- From: "Beckenbach, Jay" To: Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 2004 8:27 AM Subject: [IBC] Timing Dilemma Marty, I don't do much propagation so your description of hardwood cutting treatment confuses me. If you bundle 6-8 together, you'd get a multi-stem plant unless you re-plant individually in the spring. Is re-planting the proper procedure? If so, what signal do you use for timing, bud break of the parent plant? Have you tried individual hardwood cuttings so as to avoid the re-planting or multi-stem configuration? TIA - jay Jay Beckenbach - Melrose, FL - Zone 8b/9a - -----Original Message----- From: Marty Haber ] I divide cuttings into two groups: hardwood & softwood. I do hardwood cuttings in the fall after leaf-drop. Procedu cut pencil sized branches with sharp knife at 45o angle. Dip in Root-tone. Shake off excess. Bundle 6 to 8 together. Plant in prepared bed at 45o angle about 1/2 way down the length. Mark with stake so you can find them in the spring. Softwood cuttings: Wait until new shoots emerge in spring. Remove all but 3-5 leaves. Cut at 45o angle. Apply Root-tone. Plant indiviually in a flat, using sharp sand or Perlite. Keep damp, but not soggy. Protect flat whenever night temp. is below 40oF. I find hardwood cuttings much more reliable than softwood, and less care is necessary in growing them. You will find that some of them don't root over winter, but form a hard scab over the wound. Don't give up on these. Plant them as you would softwood cuttings, and watch for bud formation. Very often the opening of the buds will trigger root growth. So the answer to your question is - try hardwood cuttings; and keep them outdoors! Freezing won't hurt them. Marty ----- Original Message ----- From: "Iris Cohen" The other night, at Bill's auction, I bought a 3-gallon 'Arakawa' maple. It needs major pruning & styling. One expert said to work on deciduous trees in the winter when the leaves are off so you can see what you are doing. However, since it is not a common variety, I wanted to save the cuttings for my club. Bill said the best time to take cuttings is in June. Any way I can compromise? Would it be possible to prune the tree in February or March, when the sap starts running, and root the cuttings under lights or in a greenhouse? Iris, Central NY, Zone 5a, Sunset Zone 40 "If we see light at the end of the tunnel, It's the light of the oncoming train." ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Evergreen Gardenworks++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Evergreen Gardenworks++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
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#6
14-09-2004, 05:46 PM
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Jay
Marty's method of rooting cuttings through the winter is typical of hardy northern species and their growing conditions. It might work OK with some few species that go totally dormant over winter such as Crape Myrtle or Maple, but because of our warmer conditions the process doesn't work as well due to rot. Also in most cases the plants bundled and "heeled in" will not develop much if any root, but they do develop a callus that allows the to root quickly once spring comes. Billy In a message dated 9/14/2004 10:00:44 AM Eastern Daylight Time, writes: Marty, I don't do much propagation so your description of hardwood cutting treatment confuses me. If you bundle 6-8 together, you'd get a multi-stem plant unless you re-plant individually in the spring. Is re-planting the proper procedure? If so, what signal do you use for timing, bud break of the parent plant? Have you tried individual hardwood cuttings so as to avoid the re-planting or multi-stem configuration? TIA - jay Jay Beckenbach - Melrose, FL - Zone 8b/9a - Billy on the Florida Space Coast ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Evergreen Gardenworks++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
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