Atlas wrote:

I'm italian.

Italy's citruses are quite famous.

Nevertheless there has been a long debate about how to fight calcium
carbonate in water, for feeding plants (citruses), in an italian gardening
newsgroup, and I couldn't get through it to make the right choice.

That's how it all began

It is well known how calcium carbonates (either in water or in the soil)
limits the proper absorption of essentials minerals, tipically iron,
magnesium and manganese (chlorosis), and how these problem is magnified when
pots are used for containing the plants.

Also using pots has worst effects due to higher concentration of deposits.

In my case I have to deal with a very calcareus water, a high Ph (8/8,5).

I haven't got a detailed analysis of the water.

I know that to have a properly targeted advise I should know important
information about active calcium carbonate, Ph, electric conductivity and so
forth.

Nevertheless speaking with a citrus expert, I've been advised to put some
citric acid into the water (30g per 100 Liters) to break calcium carbonate.

And here the debate began.

Some people said that citric acid can break calcium carbonate, but leaves
calcium ions in the water, makeing it soluble and ready to the plants. They
where thinking that the effect is worst.

This is were my question comes in.

1) Are the effects of the calcium carbonate worst of soluble calcium?

2) Is it possible to "rinse" the soil in the pots to wash out calcium
carbonate and salts left out from fertilizers?

Is there any effective (cheap test) to work it out? I would like to avoid
water analysis but, if it is the only way to set a proper strategy I will go
through it.

Thanks

P.S. - The soil isn't calcareous. It is made on purpose for citruses.

I have dwarf citrus growing in containers; see my
http://www.rossde.com/garden/dwarf_citrus.html. I use a potting
mix that tends to be acidic because of the large amount of peat
moss; see my
http://www.rossde.com/garden/garden_potting_mix.html. The mix
also contains bone meal and gypsum, both of which are sources of
calcium.

Since the mix drains well, nutrients leach away. This is
accelerated by the fact that the containers are slightly elevated
on loose bricks and do not sit in any saucers or non-draining outer
containers. Thus, I have to feed frequently (but lightly to avoid
burning confined roots). I alternate between a commercial citrus
food and ammonium sulfate. Because citrus is sensitive to a lack
of zinc, I also give small doses of zinc sulfate. All of these are
acidic.

I think my home-made potting mix along with proper feeding will
counteract any alkalinity or salinity of your water. If the water
is really bad, you might have to renew the gypsum once or twice a
year.

--
David E. Ross
Climate: California Mediterranean
Sunset Zone: 21 -- interior Santa Monica Mountains with some ocean
influence (USDA 10a, very close to Sunset Zone 19)
Gardening pages at http://www.rossde.com/garden/