I didn't mention a correlation between fertilizer and bud blast/ capsule
abortion. I was referring to spike initiation - will the shoot be flowering
or vegetative? We have had a good deal of success growing standard cyms this
way in a part of the country where it's not supposed to happen. There may be
other factors involved. My Cyms devonianum and eburneum bloomed well, set
capsules and also aborted them. Some nice crosses from Casa de las Orquideas
purchased as dugups bloomed for the first time last year and we're looking
forward to better blooms from them this year as well as some that have just
made it up to blooming size. I say keep doing whatever works for you for
whatever reason. If you can figure out the reason, even better. Can anyone
help out here?
Gary

"profpam" wrote in message ...
Hi,

My Cymbidium Golden Elf produced a nice spike last month; however, I
crossed it
the same as last year -- but didn't put it back outside and the
pod/capsule
dropped after three weeks -- just like bud blast. These are pretty
finicky
plant; however, they will tolerate some extremes and will still bloom.
Because
I don't fertilize the Cymbidiums regularly (have not for the entire
season) and
still get some bud blast (on pods/capsules) and some of the others, I
don't seem
to see the connection between fertilizer and bud blast; however, I do see
temperature as a direct cause.

. . . Pam
Everything Orchid Management System http://www.pe.net/~profpam/page3.html



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V_coerulea wrote:

Anyone who can live and grow orchids in northern NH has my deepest
respect.
Night temps of 55 degrees in my house would kill me! Anyway...
Dwarf cyms frequently bloom early. I live in southern SC and my
Sweetheart
'Sensation', Showgirl 'Cherokee' and Golden Elf 'Sundust' are all
beginning
to spike. I ha vesomeotherministhatusuallyspikealittlelater.
Standards can bloom anywhere from Dec to May depending on their
parentage.
To get reliable blooming from them here, we withhold all fertilizer after
August. New shoots then come as bloom stems. If we continue fertilizing,
all
new shoots are vegetative. We grow them in a greenhouse with minimum heat
to
prevent the temp from dropping below 45. So I guess we actually grow ours
cooler than you do yours at this time of the year which may delay their
blooming to a more usual time. Can your cyms stay in the sunroom longer?
It
may help delay the blooming.
Gary

"Tamra Eastman" wrote in message
.. .
I haven't been reading for awhile, but I have been busy with my orchids.
I
have what may seem like a stupid question. My standard cymbidiums and
my
warm-growing cymbid (Golden Elf) are currently spiking. Many of my
orchids
seem to be on a schedule that is about six months off. My dend.
Kingianum
for instance always seems to bloom in the middle of the summer. My
other
orchids follow the usual bloom time schedule, and I'm pleased to say,
they
bloom with regularity. I wonder if my conditions are causing the
shift.
I
live in northern NH. My cymbids and other cool growers go outside at
the
beginning of June where nights are still likely to be in the 30s and
40s,
and come in around the first of October. I put them in an unheated
sunroom
for about another month but then they come into the house where night
temperatures are around 55. I also grow under florescent light as a
backup
to unobstructed western light.

I'm really not complaining...the blooms are prolific and welcome at any
time. I'm really just curious.

Tamra