I think various plants do better with vartious
treatments. Some are easy to root and some are not. I
have a sacrificial branch on a trident about 1.5
inches in diameter. I am going to try several
airlayers as I really should cut off the branch at
toss it (like at 64 I need to start more cuttings) So
I will do this out of curiosity.
Kits
--- Theo wrote:
there are different ways of air layering according
the thickness of the
branche and the species of the plant
you can cut a ring of bark as thick as the
diameter of the branch
is, remove teh bark and make some more carving on
the cambium
you can strangle under with a wire that fits
in a carved ring
and apply hormon and sphagnum
you can instead cut scales and put a stone and
hormons and spagnum
to keep the scales open
you can make half a cut and put a plastic sheat in
between like a
credit card blade and sap will not flow trough
this part and make
roots only from this side ..
you can bent a bench e keep it in the soil with
a fork to roots
it all depends why you are making air layering
and which result you
are looking for your possibilities of action
Bob Pastorio wrote:
Jim Lewis wrote:
On 11 Jan 2005 at 8:50, Kitsune Miko wrote:
I have the book in ASCi it looks like this"
|airlayer
|
______ ______ _______ branch tip
| |
cut cut
There is a bottom cut, but not all the way
through at
the two cut sites. They are stuffed with moss,
wrapped, and cut off when roots form on either
side of
the above indicated airlayer. My question is
whether
roots also from on the piece more towards the
branch
tip.
They do. Or at least did on my one try at it. I
didn't bother to save
it, thought, because it was an uninteresting
branch.
This seesm to be a variation on the
put-a-pebble-in-a-slit-and-bury-in-the-ground
technique. but on that one the roots form at the
end
of the growing tip.
Kits
Based on the biology of trees (plants!) and how
nutrients, water, etc.
are moved around, I cannot imagine how you could
get roots in both
places; you might be in danger of getting roots
at neither place.
It works. I did an upward-growing branch on a
ficus this way.
Obviously, the base horizontal branch was
sacrificed beyond the first
cut. I did the two cuts, put thin strips of
plastic into them that
extended beyond the cut edges to keep them open.
Dusted it all with
rooting hormone and packed it in peat moss. Worked
fine.
When I had roots I liked, I cut the horizontal
branch off at the cut
farthest from the trunk, and then the other one.
Shaved bark on the
bottom of the remaining bit of the horizontal
branch where more roots
grew over time. Planted the layered tree and grew
it until 4 years ago
when I gave it to a friend as a gift.
_I_ would not risk it in a plant that I really
wanted to get at least
one layer off of. Do the bottom layer now, then
the other layer in a
few years when the new roots are fully supporting
the new plant.
The method of this approach is detailed in Naka
"Bonsai Techniques 11"
on page 3. I did it pretty much as he explained it
there with the
addition of the plastic pieces. I was concerned
that the cuts would
heal so I made it impossible.
Pastorio
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