Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
I think various plants do better with vartious
treatments. Some are easy to root and some are not. I have a sacrificial branch on a trident about 1.5 inches in diameter. I am going to try several airlayers as I really should cut off the branch at toss it (like at 64 I need to start more cuttings) So I will do this out of curiosity. Kits --- Theo wrote: there are different ways of air layering according the thickness of the branche and the species of the plant you can cut a ring of bark as thick as the diameter of the branch is, remove teh bark and make some more carving on the cambium you can strangle under with a wire that fits in a carved ring and apply hormon and sphagnum you can instead cut scales and put a stone and hormons and spagnum to keep the scales open you can make half a cut and put a plastic sheat in between like a credit card blade and sap will not flow trough this part and make roots only from this side .. you can bent a bench e keep it in the soil with a fork to roots it all depends why you are making air layering and which result you are looking for your possibilities of action Bob Pastorio wrote: Jim Lewis wrote: On 11 Jan 2005 at 8:50, Kitsune Miko wrote: I have the book in ASCi it looks like this" |airlayer | ______ ______ _______ branch tip | | cut cut There is a bottom cut, but not all the way through at the two cut sites. They are stuffed with moss, wrapped, and cut off when roots form on either side of the above indicated airlayer. My question is whether roots also from on the piece more towards the branch tip. They do. Or at least did on my one try at it. I didn't bother to save it, thought, because it was an uninteresting branch. This seesm to be a variation on the put-a-pebble-in-a-slit-and-bury-in-the-ground technique. but on that one the roots form at the end of the growing tip. Kits Based on the biology of trees (plants!) and how nutrients, water, etc. are moved around, I cannot imagine how you could get roots in both places; you might be in danger of getting roots at neither place. It works. I did an upward-growing branch on a ficus this way. Obviously, the base horizontal branch was sacrificed beyond the first cut. I did the two cuts, put thin strips of plastic into them that extended beyond the cut edges to keep them open. Dusted it all with rooting hormone and packed it in peat moss. Worked fine. When I had roots I liked, I cut the horizontal branch off at the cut farthest from the trunk, and then the other one. Shaved bark on the bottom of the remaining bit of the horizontal branch where more roots grew over time. Planted the layered tree and grew it until 4 years ago when I gave it to a friend as a gift. _I_ would not risk it in a plant that I really wanted to get at least one layer off of. Do the bottom layer now, then the other layer in a few years when the new roots are fully supporting the new plant. The method of this approach is detailed in Naka "Bonsai Techniques 11" on page 3. I did it pretty much as he explained it there with the addition of the plastic pieces. I was concerned that the cuts would heal so I made it impossible. Pastorio ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ -- MSN messanger / or ICQ 25 666 169 4 Private Mail : «»«»«» Just for today... don't worry .....be happy «»«»«» ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ ===== **** "Expectations are resentments under construction." Anne Lamott ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Kitsune Miko wrote: I think various plants do better with vartious treatments. Some are easy to root and some are not. I have a sacrificial branch on a trident about 1.5 inches in diameter. I am going to try several airlayers as I really should cut off the branch at toss it (like at 64 I need to start more cuttings) So I will do this out of curiosity. Kits --- Theo wrote: why not Trident like most of maples rootens very easily start in spring it takes from 3 to 6 months do you rimember you told me thaht colored maples rootens less well? I have a strange one with weeping branches and yellowish orange leaves that I airlayered in april and had no roots in july and plenty in september .. MSN messanger / or ICQ 25 666 169 4 Private Mail : «»«»«» Just for today... don't worry .....be happy «»«»«» |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
?questions?questions? (noob) | Ponds | |||
I'm learning, but Questions, Questions, Questions | Orchids | |||
questions, questions, questions... | Ponds | |||
[IBC] AirLayering Eastern Hemlock? | Bonsai | |||
[IBC] airlayering red oak | Bonsai |