Those boards are set up nice and would make nice boards for LED arrays.
By the same token, they don't have a cap, they're not sealed. The
glue-gun might work to help seal the back of those boards, yet it is
still uncertain as to how they would be safest.
Then, light would be generated at the 660 and 620 nm, and the 430 and
450, and then some in the orange and maybe even some yellow and green,
but just as trivial accents. If red LEDs from 620 to 660 were used,
with concentration at the chlorophyll absorption peaks, then the idea
with those is to maximize PAR, photosynthetically active radiation.
Then, 600 and 610 are used for plants that reflect yellow and thus are
absorbing orange for some reason. On one hand it seems good to mix
those out in all the LED emitters, to have multiple LED emitters.
So then they LEDs would be designed, it depends on how many are in
series. For integer n of how many LEDs are in series, for a given
emitter if they are uniform in distribution then the additive
partitions of n describe different ways LEDs can be combined. Then, it
seems the general notion is to have like mucho red / some blue / trace
others. Yet, perhaps I should focus on having two types of emitters:
red and non-red, or three, red, blue, and supplemental. Then, the
supplemental ones could be traded out for different plants.
So, then if I got a couple hundred red LEDs, and scores of blue and
some orange ones, then they would be pretty good. Something along the
lines of running each series at 25V for matching, and then having
around 25V of LEDs in an array, would have around 10 Red LEDs, a couple
or three blues, and an orange. Might also be useful to have some
yellow for the xanthallum? carotenoid xanthophyll. flavoproteins:
cryptochrome. Well, xanthophyll is a yellow pigment, it is being
absorbing the orange, it's a carotenoid
Then, some lights are only to be applied at various periods. For
example, the far-red might be decreasing germination, which is bad, but
it might also lead to shorter dark periods in flowering.
UV-A, UV-B? various other considerations of supplements to the
lighting. 36 is quite a handful of LEDs, if the 36 LED PC boards are
used. UV-A, is absorbed, UV-A, ca. 370 nm Maybe some green for the
anthocyanin? Cannabinoid - derived from terpene. Cannabis is one of
the very most gourmet cultured plants.
Nutrients:
Dolomitic Lime - calcium-magnesium carbonate, USP pH,
Epsom Salts - magnesium sulfate, soluble magnesium, good stuff
Garden Grade Gypsum - calcium sulfate
calcium nitrate
Saltpeter - potassium nitrate
urea
manganese? trace?
aluminum: toxic to plant roots
http://www.luminet.net/~wenonah/link.htm#hydro
pH should be acidic, how acidic? "6.5"
consider some mycrorhizzal culture
bake some good dirt and put it in
water pretreatment
air a day or two
add hydrogen peroxide
various nutrient mixes per the above.
chelated trace minerals, very small quantities
germination will be very key. That will basically happen with the
dark/damp/warm method, and then the seedlings will be put into a grow
media and put under a CF light. Then, after about a week, they go in
the tank.
LEDs
5mm 660nm 10mA 2000mcd
L513LRC from ledOPTO,
www.azo-store.com, on sale @ 0.06
5mm 430nm 20mA 350mcd
http://www.ledtronics.com/ds/L200-UB500/ L200CUB500N-3.8
428/464, $20/10, 4.0/4.5@20mA 55mcd@40
for their superblues, 461/466nm, they want $23/10, 3.5/3.8V@20mA,
1200mcd@45
for the chl-b, 638/626nm, they want $28/25, 2.2/2.6V@20mA, 6300mcd@22
orange, ~$20/25
http://www.hebeiltd.com.cn/?p=z.pricelist.led.diode
A 5mm flat-top 460nm deep blue CREE diode
460, $0.46/1, 1200mcd@60
http://www.roithner-laser.com/LED_HP_single_chip.html
a good-looking orange LED at
www.theledlight.com, but it was funny
epitex.com has soome good looking LEDs, hard to order
digikey might have some cheapish amber/orange LEDs, need to nail down
xanthophyll peak absorption
ledshoppe.com, great looking LEDs, small viewing angle. Very good
pricing.
Well, I really need to figure out the deal with viewing angle unless I
want to find out that the power only applies to the viewing angle,
because those LEDs have an angle of it says around 8 degrees. For
example, the 40 degree ones say 55 mcd.
If I make all the clusters the same, well, that's one thing. But I
could make ten clusters of those, with one of those LEDs per, in having
clusters with, say, 24 or 36 LEDs, the rest red ones. Then, with ten
clusters, one on each wall and four on the roof, and then ten clusters
of primary red/blue hitters. Those wavelengths are for the primary
red/blue deals.
Instead of the dome form factor, it may very well be that the
flattop/cylindrical is better, because it appears to have a much wider
angle. The angle is 30 degrees on the 513-LRC, 1.6/1.8 and the spec
sheet says 20mA
surplusled.com has some PCB's "coming soon", a lot of 1000 ultra red
diffused for 20 mA but they say 160mcd typ at 1.7/2.6V, $39.99/1000,
but that is a wide area
Getting some of those PCBs would really be a boon, because it would
solve a lot of problems in getting a nice line-up and so on,
particularly if there were nice cases that went with them. Maybe ask
the RV dealer guy.
Compact fluorescent
ballast
Triad C2642UNVME
http://www.lightbulbsdirect.com/page...C2642UNVME000K
$31.50, runs 2 24w CF
3 Phillips 3100K bulbs @ ~$9, 3 actinic/cold combos @~15
6 endcaps @ ~2.50 2G11, or G24q-3 and 26w bulbs?
clips, holders
approx. $150 - $175
Rooter's mycorrhizae, about $10 a pound
CPU fan, about two dollars to get a dynatron brushless ball bearing
fan, maybe some heatsinks for the roof? Then the fan blows over the
roof and slightly into the chamber also, when the roof is up. So, the
very quietest fan is what to get.
"I am so booored. What plaything can you offer me today?
"An obscure body in the S-K system, your majesty.
Its inhabitants refer to it as the planet Eeeaarth."
"How peaceful it looks."
Should be able to find some polycarbonate lenses in little surface
mounts. Maybe even glass lenses. The point is to find a diffuser of
sorts that passes all the wavelengths of the LEDs. So, UV blocking is
not so important. A source notes polycarbonate might pass 88% UV-A,
57% UV-B. Glass might be better. Look to trailer surface mount type
things.
Looking for circuit boards for LED clusters and shallow plastic
enclosure with clear polycarbonate or glass lenses. Basically the idea
is to get those mini tackle boxes, minimini, with the folding
poycarbonate or other clear plastic lid, and then they are deep enough,
shallow enough, and small and large enough. Also they should be cheap
enough. Then it is a relatively simple matter to get some circuit
board material even without a printed circuit board, and then drill
those and assemble them. Transparent, polycarbonate enclosures,
http://www.hammondmfg.com/dwg2c.htm
http://www.hammondmfg.com/1554FCLP.htm
http://www.misterplexi.com/hingedbox.html !!
www.alpharho.com,
http://wardsci.com/product.asp_Q_pn_...+Plastic+Boxes
Need to make the boards first, with some notion of their eventual
enclosure, but not so much.
Carotenoids: 460 to 550?
****in A', definitely need wide spectrum first, 24w high frequency with
the 2G11 and warm/cold blend, and then some royal blue luxeons and
430s, and get to it. Start with those first, but also those cheap
660s. Some 730s will be key for their phtotomorphogenic keys.
pulsing idea: half wave one side to LEDs, but have the other side to
caps that double into the LEDs. That is to say, run full wave to not
bore into a rectifier diode, and then just have a gate circuit that
when it goes back to the LEDs, then it is doubled off of the
capacitors, or run another bank off of those capacitors through an SCR.
The idea is to work photosystem one and two, for better coupling.
Then, I would like the arrays to be close to wall voltage, in having x
number of LEDs in an array, but as well they have pretty tight bounds
on what they do. ...
Emerson effect: need 670's and 700's.
http://www.bamart.com/Store.asp?m=IL...=D+I+Y+Pa rts
PC CF bulbs, clips, sockets
Well this photosystem I/II discussion is leading to different
assumptions about the wavelength. I should be looking for 700/690 and
780/770 instead of 660 and 640. Hmm.... Chlorophyll a and b have
those peaks as above, but photosystem I and II peak at 700 and 680, and
having both contributes to Emerson effect.
It the LEDs are 30 degree, and the angles in the corners are 120
degree, then consider having the LEDS in the corners with pointing
around. Just make two 60 degree bars, the idea is to design these
things useful and then sell kits.
About the 700nm LEDs, it seems their delta-lambda, or +-3db wavelength
range, is some 50nm or something high in these ledOPTO L513-H, which
would be off in the far-red range? Well, maybe not that far, only as
much as is in the 665. So, they woud be OK, maybe, for hitting p.s. I
and II, then 735's for photomorphogenesis specifically would be a
different module. The spectrum of 660's is pretty high, so some 680's
should be good instead of the 700's, but they are even more difficult
to find.
Luxeon reds peak at 640? Oh, great. Then Luxeon Reds and Royal Blues
work almost perfect for Chlorophyll b. They should go into a radiated
wattage ratio that matches the absorption peaks ratio? The absorption
peaks look about the same width....
Then, cheap 660's, and then there is the need for the 430's, for the
Chlorophyll a.
Then, 680's and 700's for Photosystems II and I,
730's and, ..., 880's? for far-red.
Then, orange, yellow, and greens, and some ultraviolets... consider
blue-green reversibility.
The actinics say something about 420-430.
action/response spectra for Green Light induced responses show a peak
between 540 and 550nm.
http://www.pubmedcentral.nih.gov/art...medid=15247396
So, if GL increases stem elongation, use GL after topping to encourage
the offshoots to increase while the top regenerates? ... "actuate the
Rapid Growth Response". "The consistent decline in growth rate is
presumably due to activation of additional photosensory systems that
inhibit growth." Hmm... Check out Bunsen-Roscoe reciprocity and
first-order photchemistry. phototropin excitations, under blue light,
inhibit growth. ??? Well, they were using 524 and 535...
The fluoros would be putting out some of that light, it's not a
monochromatic environment. Thus, green light effects would seem to be
made by the fluorescents, in further consideration of blue/green
reversibility. A blue and green bank might be used for stomatal
influence in the otherwise dark period. Stomata are on underside of
leaf.