On Fri, 25 May 2007 01:18:55 CST, Cyli wrote:

The idea that all cut grass should be caught up in bags or trailers
and then kept away from the grass always seemed strange to me. I
don't have anything to back it up, but I think that's nonsense. Let
it fall where it's been growing. Don't worry about the (what I think
is) mythical thatch problem.

As a Master Gardener, I can back you up. Mulching does not cause thatch,
grass type does. Fescue's, Chewing's... more apt to have thatch problem.
Bluegrass rarely. We've been in this house for 20 years, bluegrass, never
needed to thatch.

The fallen grass (as long as you've been
mowing frequently) will fall onto the growing grass, fall between the
leaves of the grass and help fertilize it and shade the roots,
eventually disintegrating into a better soil. And I guess I do have
something to back it up. My beautiful velvet lawn was cut and kept
that way.

There you go. ;-) Washington State University would back you up also.

Don't bother to feed the lawn often. At most twice a year. Better
once a year. Okay to never do it in many places.

I can only speak regarding my area, and what our experts in their fields
recommend for our climate. What they recommend is fertilize 4 times, unless
using mulching mower, than 3 times. Since our crabgrass germination season
is so long I put that down twice in the spring mid-March end of May, then I
put a late fall of weed & feed winterizer end of Oct. (Zone 7a)

One reason not to weed and feed is that every bit of that stuff goes
into the ground and from the ground into the ground water or runs off
into the drainage system.

I'd disagree with you there, if over done, you are certainly right, but
soil type and location make a big difference. Nothing moves very fast in
clay, and most fertilizers end up bound to clay. Why we can put fertilizer
spikes in our plant baskets and not get green water in the pond.

If you do have an in ground pond, remember to plant a bunch of stuff
as a barrier around it, so that things like lawn chemicals (if you
insist on using them) will be filtered or stopped before reaching the
pond.

Well, hmmmm, yeah, again YMMV here. Sandy soil like mine, low rain because
of desert, I can get close. Clay soil, more rain, be very careful. Berm
around the pond may even be necessary.

Always good to check with county extension agent as they can recommend best
practice for your area. I highly recommend sharp blade on mower. :-) ~ jan
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Zone 7a, SE Washington State
Ponds: www.jjspond.us