On Wed, 04 Jul 2007 05:25:33 -0700, "
wrote:

Trees add so much to your landscape. Apart from the aesthetic appeal
of their beauty, they provide cooling shade for your home and garden.
A mature leafy tree can produce as much oxygen in a season as ten
people can inhale in a year.

But when trees have problems, they can be BIG problems, as these
readers discovered.

QUESTION: "We have a maple, not a silver one, that has been in the
ground maybe twenty years but still looks spindly. This spring was
hard on it and it looks half-dead. Is there anything I should do to
help it? It is in open lawn and there is no reason that I can see as
to why it is doing so poorly." - Karen Meyer

ANSWER: There are many things you can try to do as a homeowner. One
of the simplest is to fertilize the tree using a product called Jobe
tree stakes.
Directions come with it but it is as simple as pounding in the
fertilizer stakes at the drip line of the trees.

For mature trees such as the one you describe you will use three
stakes for every two inches of trunk diameter, measured at chest
height. For example, five stakes will feed a tree with a three inch
trunk diameter, and so on.
Using the plastic driving cap, tap stakes into the ground, spaced
evenly at tree's drip line. The drip line is directly below the ends
of the longest branches.

Another suggestion would be to contact an arborist in your area who
deals in larger trees. Here is a link to find one.
http://asca-consultants.org/directory/index.cfm You can also click on
a direct link to that directory when you find this column at my Web
site, www.landsteward.org

This arborist will likely tell you to ignore the previous advice. If
he does not, find another. Fertilizing a stressed tree can cause it
to die as it spends its last remaining stored energy on a flush of new
growth in response to the nitrogen.

Also, fertilizing without a soil test is always risky. If the
homeowner (or his predecessor) already fertilized excessively, the
buildup of salts could kill the tree. Not to mention the risk of
runoff polluting waterways (admittedly unlikely with these spikes).

Speaking of which, the spikes themselves are a very inefficient way to
fertilize your soil. The result is a few pockets of oversalted soil
surrounded by large areas of unaffected root zone. (I prefer to
top-dress twice a year with composted manure. If your soil is
deficient in phosphorus, add bone meal. P and K are usually not a
problem, though. The compost will add N and also microbes to
invigorate the soil ecosystem. This will be much more useful than a
chemical spike or two.)

The likely cause of this tree's problems is poor planting
practices--too deep, leading to root crown decay and possibly girdling
roots. But it is impossible to diagnose without more information.
The only good advice above is to call a good arborist.


QUESTION: "I have a Japanese Purpleleaf Sand Cherry at the front
corner of my house. It's about six years old and is quite a size. It
is part of my landscape. Around the tree I have evergreens,
rhododendron, day lilies,
hostas and flowering bushes. I have noticed that the leaves are not
as big
as last year's and it has a lot of black dots along the branches and
some sort of white stuff. What is it and what can I do to save the
tree? Please respond ASAP if you can as I don't want the tree to die
if I can save it." - Teresa Fallone

ANSWER: It sounds like you have some kind of insect infection. You
could try a product I've been using called Take Down Garden Spray. It
contains a mixture of pyrethrin and canola oil. It is safe to use on
vegetables and fruit trees as well as on groundcover, shrubs,
houseplants, etc. Readers have told me they've had success with Take
Down controlling Japanese Beetles, aphids, mealy bugs and so on.

From what you tell me, it may be necessary to spray several times over
the next few weeks. Also, you may experience some die back because of
this. Once you see some of the tips or light branches dying, you need
to trim them back to reshape the bush. Let me know how it works out
for you.

It doesn't sound like that to me. It is possible, I suppose, but
where is the evidence? Sounds like a vague description of normal
plant characteristics and too-small leaves, which are not caused by
insects. Again, more info is needed for diagnosis.

QUESTION: "I had a weeping willow planted a year ago. It has done
well and is about 9 or 10 feet tall. We are in a severe drought right
now. How often should I water this tree and for how long at a time? I
don't want to over water it." - Mary Chase

ANSWER: During the drought I would water once per week. You need to
do deep watering to get to the roots not just standing with hose. As
I've said here before, use a five gallon bucket filled with water and
small 1/8 inch holes on the side at the base. The water coming out
that slowly will be more likely to reach the roots.

What, no irrigation products to promote?

Watering plants cannot be done on a set schedule or regimen. You have
to dig into the soil to see if it it wet. Water deeply when the top
3-6 inches of soil are dry. Do not water again until the soil is dry
again.

Keith Babberney
ISA Certified Arborist #TX-0236AT