Thanks. I'll stick to Beeches and just keep looking until I find a Hawthorn
with actual roots. I already have 1 Willow - don't think I'd have time for
another one!

-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Lewis ]
Sent: Monday, March 31, 2003 11:31 AM
To: Isom, Jeff (EM, PTL);
Subject: [IBC] Identifying Trees in the wild


Well, I'll state the obvious first: Include whatever part has
some of the smaller feeder roots on it. Then, I'd cut it
something like an upside-down T. I'd scrape away the bark along
the top of the T (the bottom of the "cutting" in this case)
except near where the rootlets come out and treat that scraped
part and the cut ends with rooting hormone. Keep the hormone
well away from the rootlets; it can actually INHIBIT their
functioning.

From that point, treat as a cutting.

If they are willow, don't bother with all that stuff. Just jam a
stick into the ground and wait. The beech should root OK handled
as I describe. The haws will be more difficult (In MY
experience), if not impossible.

Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Our life is
frittered away by detail . . . . Simplify! Simplify. -- Henry
David Thoreau - Walden

Do you cut above the main root or include part of it?

Unless I'm totally off in my ID's, some of these are Beech,
some are Willow
and some are Hawthorn (at least they have some wicked looking
thorns on
them).

snip

You can treat a "sucker" (especially if there are a few roots)
like you would a cutting and often have some success. Trees
that
sucker are, almost by definition, filled with the "will to
live."

Unfortunately, trees that sucker also seem to be trees with
coarse branching and large internodes (except, perhaps, for
Prunus and Fagus).

Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Our life
is
frittered away by detail . . . . Simplify! Simplify. -- Henry
David Thoreau - Walden

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