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Old 21-03-2008, 10:22 PM posted to alt.home.lawn.garden
Eggs Zachtly Eggs Zachtly is offline
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First recorded activity by GardenBanter: Jul 2006
Posts: 846
Default Using starter fluid

[Top-posting fixed]
Learn how to format a post to The USENET, cloolessone.

Stubby said:

"Eggs Zachtly" wrote in message
...
[Top-posting fixed]

Stubby said:

"KC" wrote in message

...
I've got an old leaf blower with a fair amount of use on it. It
always started easily until recently, but now will not start without a
squirt of starter fluid. Without the fluid, no amount of pulling the
rope will produce even a cough from it, but with a small squirt of
starter fluid it will start on the first pull and run fine.
What would cause this? My first thought was carb or compression, but
it runs fine once it starts. The fuel is from the same container I
use for my other 2 cycle engines and they all start fine.

KC

The gaskets in the carburetor have dried out. Get a rebuilding kit.


If that were the case, it wouldn't "run fine" after starting, now would,
it?

Unsubscribe, dumbass. You're as clooless as you've ever been.


When running, the throttle is controlled by the airflow hitting a control
vane.


Bullshit. The throttle is controlled by a cable and linkage.

So when initially started there is no airflow


Geez you're a ****ing idiot. How can you "initially start it", with no
airflow? The first time that the intake stroke hits, it draws air in with
the fuel.

and the throttle is held wide open.


On a cold engine, the choke is closed and the throttle held wide open, yes.
But you're absolutely lost as to "why", aren't you. Here's a clue. Keep it,
because it's the only clue you probably will ever know:

The fuel in a cold engine is sticking to the cylinder walls due to
condensation, making the mixture too lean for the engine to start. The
choke system will add fuel to the engine to compensate for the fuel that is
stuck to the cylinder walls. Once the engine is warmed up, condensation is
not a problem, and the choke is not needed.

Then it gets cut back to what should be the normal running
setting.


"Normal running setting" on a 2-stroke, is wide open, dumbass.

But as the carb ages and dries out,


If the gaskets were worn enough to affect the fuel mixture that
drastically, the carb would most likely show signs of leaking fuel (the OP
stated nothing about any leaks), especially at startup /and/ if they're
*that* worn, the engine wouldn't "run fine" after it warmed up. Each pull
of the throttle would suck in more air than needed. And the engine would
again run too lean.

the mechanism doesn't work well won't support normal operation.


So a gasket is now a "mechanism"? You're using words that you heard
somewhere, but you never bothered to look up their meanings. Hint: gaskets
don't move, or have moving parts.

A rebuilding kit contains new gaskets and acceleration pump.


Rebuilding the carb /may/ help. So would a new plug. But, not because of
dried out gaskets. My guess would be a either a jetting or compression
issue.

It's an "older leaf blower with a fair amount of use to it". It's probably
time to break down and get a new one.

--

Eggs

Do files get embarrassed when they get unzipped?