I've got an old leaf blower with a fair amount of use on it. It
always started easily until recently, but now will not start without a
squirt of starter fluid. Without the fluid, no amount of pulling the
rope will produce even a cough from it, but with a small squirt of
starter fluid it will start on the first pull and run fine.
What would cause this? My first thought was carb or compression, but
it runs fine once it starts. The fuel is from the same container I
use for my other 2 cycle engines and they all start fine.

KC

The gaskets in the carburetor have dried out. Get a rebuilding kit.

"KC" wrote in message
...
I've got an old leaf blower with a fair amount of use on it. It
always started easily until recently, but now will not start without a
squirt of starter fluid. Without the fluid, no amount of pulling the
rope will produce even a cough from it, but with a small squirt of
starter fluid it will start on the first pull and run fine.
What would cause this? My first thought was carb or compression, but
it runs fine once it starts. The fuel is from the same container I
use for my other 2 cycle engines and they all start fine.

KC

[Top-posting fixed]

Stubby said:

"KC" wrote in message
...
I've got an old leaf blower with a fair amount of use on it. It
always started easily until recently, but now will not start without a
squirt of starter fluid. Without the fluid, no amount of pulling the
rope will produce even a cough from it, but with a small squirt of
starter fluid it will start on the first pull and run fine.
What would cause this? My first thought was carb or compression, but
it runs fine once it starts. The fuel is from the same container I
use for my other 2 cycle engines and they all start fine.

KC

The gaskets in the carburetor have dried out. Get a rebuilding kit.


If that were the case, it wouldn't "run fine" after starting, now would,
it?

Unsubscribe, dumbass. You're as clooless as you've ever been.
--

Eggs

The speed of time is one second per second.

When running, the throttle is controlled by the airflow hitting a control
vane. So when initially started there is no airflow and the throttle is
held wide open. Then it gets cut back to what should be the normal running
setting. But as the carb ages and dries out, the mechanism doesn't work
well won't support normal operation. A rebuilding kit contains new gaskets
and acceleration pump.


"Eggs Zachtly" wrote in message
...
[Top-posting fixed]

Stubby said:

"KC" wrote in message

...
I've got an old leaf blower with a fair amount of use on it. It
always started easily until recently, but now will not start without a
squirt of starter fluid. Without the fluid, no amount of pulling the
rope will produce even a cough from it, but with a small squirt of
starter fluid it will start on the first pull and run fine.
What would cause this? My first thought was carb or compression, but
it runs fine once it starts. The fuel is from the same container I
use for my other 2 cycle engines and they all start fine.

KC

The gaskets in the carburetor have dried out. Get a rebuilding kit.


If that were the case, it wouldn't "run fine" after starting, now would,
it?

Unsubscribe, dumbass. You're as clooless as you've ever been.
--

Eggs

The speed of time is one second per second.

wrote:
[Top-posting fixed]

Stubby said:

"KC" wrote in message
.
..
I've got an old leaf blower with a fair amount of use on it. It
always started easily until recently, but now will not start without a
squirt of starter fluid. Without the fluid, no amount of pulling the
rope will produce even a cough from it, but with a small squirt of
starter fluid it will start on the first pull and run fine.
What would cause this? My first thought was carb or compression, but
it runs fine once it starts. The fuel is from the same container I
use for my other 2 cycle engines and they all start fine.

KC

The gaskets in the carburetor have dried out. Get a rebuilding kit.


If that were the case, it wouldn't "run fine" after starting, now would,
it?

Unsubscribe, dumbass. You're as clooless as you've ever been.

Same Stub magic.

Hello Eggs, is spring ever going to arrive in N Ohio? Sheesh!!

--
http://NewsReader.Com/

[Top-posting fixed]
Learn how to format a post to The USENET, cloolessone.

Stubby said:

"Eggs Zachtly" wrote in message
...
[Top-posting fixed]

Stubby said:

"KC" wrote in message

...
I've got an old leaf blower with a fair amount of use on it. It
always started easily until recently, but now will not start without a
squirt of starter fluid. Without the fluid, no amount of pulling the
rope will produce even a cough from it, but with a small squirt of
starter fluid it will start on the first pull and run fine.
What would cause this? My first thought was carb or compression, but
it runs fine once it starts. The fuel is from the same container I
use for my other 2 cycle engines and they all start fine.

KC

The gaskets in the carburetor have dried out. Get a rebuilding kit.


If that were the case, it wouldn't "run fine" after starting, now would,
it?

Unsubscribe, dumbass. You're as clooless as you've ever been.

When running, the throttle is controlled by the airflow hitting a control
vane.

Bullshit. The throttle is controlled by a cable and linkage.

So when initially started there is no airflow

Geez you're a ****ing idiot. How can you "initially start it", with no
airflow? The first time that the intake stroke hits, it draws air in with
the fuel.

and the throttle is held wide open.

On a cold engine, the choke is closed and the throttle held wide open, yes.
But you're absolutely lost as to "why", aren't you. Here's a clue. Keep it,
because it's the only clue you probably will ever know:

The fuel in a cold engine is sticking to the cylinder walls due to
condensation, making the mixture too lean for the engine to start. The
choke system will add fuel to the engine to compensate for the fuel that is
stuck to the cylinder walls. Once the engine is warmed up, condensation is
not a problem, and the choke is not needed.

Then it gets cut back to what should be the normal running
setting.

"Normal running setting" on a 2-stroke, is wide open, dumbass.

But as the carb ages and dries out,

If the gaskets were worn enough to affect the fuel mixture that
drastically, the carb would most likely show signs of leaking fuel (the OP
stated nothing about any leaks), especially at startup /and/ if they're
*that* worn, the engine wouldn't "run fine" after it warmed up. Each pull
of the throttle would suck in more air than needed. And the engine would
again run too lean.

the mechanism doesn't work well won't support normal operation.

So a gasket is now a "mechanism"? You're using words that you heard
somewhere, but you never bothered to look up their meanings. Hint: gaskets
don't move, or have moving parts.

A rebuilding kit contains new gaskets and acceleration pump.

Rebuilding the carb /may/ help. So would a new plug. But, not because of
dried out gaskets. My guess would be a either a jetting or compression
issue.

It's an "older leaf blower with a fair amount of use to it". It's probably
time to break down and get a new one.

--

Eggs

Do files get embarrassed when they get unzipped?

Steve said:

wrote:
[Top-posting fixed]

Stubby said:

"KC" wrote in message
.
..
I've got an old leaf blower with a fair amount of use on it. It
always started easily until recently, but now will not start without a
squirt of starter fluid. Without the fluid, no amount of pulling the
rope will produce even a cough from it, but with a small squirt of
starter fluid it will start on the first pull and run fine.
What would cause this? My first thought was carb or compression, but
it runs fine once it starts. The fuel is from the same container I
use for my other 2 cycle engines and they all start fine.

KC

The gaskets in the carburetor have dried out. Get a rebuilding kit.


If that were the case, it wouldn't "run fine" after starting, now would,
it?

Unsubscribe, dumbass. You're as clooless as you've ever been.

Same Stub magic.

Hello Eggs, is spring ever going to arrive in N Ohio? Sheesh!!

I wish, man. We got serious flooding going on here. Intestate 44 will most
likely be shut down in both directions in a couple hours. It's already
closed in one direction, near Rolla, Mo (they got 12"). My backyard looked
like a lake for the past week. 5 1/2" of rain in two days can wreak havoc
on a lawn, heh.

It's almost time to pre-emerge (they did that at work last week, tho I told
em it was probably too early. The rain washed a lot (maybe most) of it into
the bunkers. LOL). I'd like to get that out of the way, but it will
probably be a waste. The city is supposed to put in a new 24" stormwater
pipe right along the edge of my property line, and a nice berm across the
back. No complaints though. If it'll fix the stormwater issues I've
experienced for the past few years, I can deal with a few more weeds than
usual. =)

On a happier, more spring-like note, I got all my onion [1] transplants and
lettuce seeds sown, yesterday. =) I would have put some peas in the
ground, but I think one of the raised beds will have to be pulled up until
the construction is finished (sometime in April). So, this year the only
spring crop from my garden will be lettuce. Oh, well. Maybe I'll have a
bumper crop of something else this summer to take my mind off the fact I
won't have fresh peas.

[1]. I always plant yellow, red, and white onions. This year, the cultivar
for the red ones I chose was: Red Zeppelin. =D

You been hibernating? Haven't seen you post in a while. And, why the
nymshift?
--

Eggs

DEATH to all fanatics!

On Mar 21, 5:22*pm, Eggs Zachtly wrote:

The fuel in a cold engine is sticking to the cylinder walls due to
condensation, making the mixture too lean for the engine to start. The
choke system will add fuel to the engine to compensate for the fuel that is
stuck to the cylinder walls. Once the engine is warmed up, condensation is
not a problem, and the choke is not needed.


Thanks Eggs. Makes sense, but why would starter fluid not stick to
the walls also? It seems that when starter fluid is used the warmup
time is greatly reduced. Is that because it burns hotter?


If the gaskets were worn enough to affect the fuel mixture that
drastically, the carb would most likely show signs of leaking fuel (the OP
stated nothing about any leaks), especially at startup /and/ if they're
*that* worn, the engine wouldn't "run fine" after it warmed up. Each pull
of the throttle would suck in more air than needed. And the engine would
again run too lean.

No leaks.


Rebuilding the carb /may/ help. So would a new plug. But, not because of
dried out gaskets. My guess would be a either a jetting or compression
issue.

Compression was my first thought but then I talked myself out of it
because it runs good after it starts. But then again I can't tell the
difference between 150mph air from a new unit and 120mph air from a
worn unit, can I.

It's an "older leaf blower with a fair amount of use to it". It's probably
time to break down and get a new one.

I tend to keep things until they just get to be too much trouble to
fix. Since this one runs ok after it starts, its not quite time to
dump it. Just a PITA to remember where I left the can of starter
fluid after I used it last.

KC

wrote:
And, why the nymshift?

Big leap from steveo to steve eh? That's my name, Steven Parks.

Egg fart smell emulates.

--
http://NewsReader.Com/

KC said:

On Mar 21, 5:22*pm, Eggs Zachtly wrote:

The fuel in a cold engine is sticking to the cylinder walls due to
condensation, making the mixture too lean for the engine to start. The
choke system will add fuel to the engine to compensate for the fuel that is
stuck to the cylinder walls. Once the engine is warmed up, condensation is
not a problem, and the choke is not needed.


Thanks Eggs. Makes sense, but why would starter fluid not stick to
the walls also?

Some does, but since it's much more flammable than gasoline, once any
ignition source is applied... *boom*.

It seems that when starter fluid is used the warmup
time is greatly reduced. Is that because it burns hotter?

Yep. Much hotter.



If the gaskets were worn enough to affect the fuel mixture that
drastically, the carb would most likely show signs of leaking fuel (the OP
stated nothing about any leaks), especially at startup /and/ if they're
*that* worn, the engine wouldn't "run fine" after it warmed up. Each pull
of the throttle would suck in more air than needed. And the engine would
again run too lean.

No leaks.


Rebuilding the carb /may/ help. So would a new plug. But, not because of
dried out gaskets. My guess would be a either a jetting or compression
issue.

Compression was my first thought but then I talked myself out of it
because it runs good after it starts. But then again I can't tell the
difference between 150mph air from a new unit and 120mph air from a
worn unit, can I.

Starting fluid, used in emergency situations is fine. Used all the time, is
not good, and can do damage to the cylinders, that will eventually wear the
parts quicker (resulting in even lower compression).


It's an "older leaf blower with a fair amount of use to it". It's probably
time to break down and get a new one.

I tend to keep things until they just get to be too much trouble to
fix. Since this one runs ok after it starts, its not quite time to
dump it. Just a PITA to remember where I left the can of starter
fluid after I used it last.

Maybe take it to a local small engine repair shop and have them give it a
once-over. I keep stuff a long time too, but you just reach a point. Ya
know?
--

Eggs

- The Lady of the Lake-- her arm clad in the purest shimmering samite, held
aloft Excalibur from the bosom of the water, signifying by divine
providence that I, Arthur, was to carry Excalibur. THAT is why I am your
king!

Steve said:

wrote:
And, why the nymshift?

Big leap from steveo to steve eh? That's my name, Steven Parks.

Nope, no big leap. =) I updated my scorefile the first time I saw and
identified the change. Just never asked yet. =)


Egg fart smell emulates.

That'll be tomorrow (and how!). =)

--

Eggs

..sig not found. (A)bort, (R)etry, (F)ail?

On Mar 22, 12:56*am, Steve wrote:
wrote:
And, why the nymshift?

Big leap from steveo to steve eh? That's my name, Steven Parks.

Egg fart smell emulates.

--
* * * * * * * * * *http://NewsReader.Com/

You are a liar, that is not your name. Did she get the clippers yet?

KC wrote:
I've got an old leaf blower with a fair amount of use on it. It
always started easily until recently, but now will not start without a
squirt of starter fluid. Without the fluid, no amount of pulling the
rope will produce even a cough from it, but with a small squirt of
starter fluid it will start on the first pull and run fine.
What would cause this? My first thought was carb or compression, but
it runs fine once it starts. The fuel is from the same container I
use for my other 2 cycle engines and they all start fine.

KC

It is possible that the seals on the crankcase or the cylinder gaskets
are beginning to fail. A lack of good seal will reduce the vacuum
available to operate the carb. By injecting fuel (starting fluid) you
are manually priming the cylinder. But starting fluid contains no
lubrication, causing accelerated cylinder and ring wear, reducing vacuum
even further. If you must prime the engine with additional (spray) fuel,
use WD-40, as the oil in it will provide SOME lubrication, and it is
very flammable.

The other possibility is the carburetor is dirty and the gaskets are
drying out. Regardless of what some others here have said, dried gaskets
in the carb limit the availability of fuel during all phases of
operation. Proper fuel availability is critical during starting, as the
cold engine requires more fuel to sustain operation. A stiff diaphragm
may move far enough to pump and meter sufficient fuel to run a hot
engine, but not enough to make that cold engine start. And the primers
on most new diaphragm carburetors only "prime" the carburetor itself
with fresh fuel.

Also, the engine may seem to run fine after you get it started, but most
two strokes will run very well even when they are running damagingly
lean. So although it seems to run well, it may be doing even more
damage. If this is a profession grade blower, get it service soon.
Otherwise, dump it and get a new one, as the cost of a good carb repair
will be as much as a new consumer grade blower.

On Mar 22, 10:24*am, Eggs Zachtly wrote:

Thanks Eggs. * Makes sense, but why would starter fluid not stick to
the walls also? *

Some does, but since it's much more flammable than gasoline, once any
ignition source is applied... *boom*.

indeed. worked in a lab once where somebody had the bright idea to put
an open can of ether (i.e. starting fluid) in the fridge, so it
wouldn't all evaporate before tomorrow. middle of the night when the
thermostat cycled on with a little bitty spark, it blew the door off
the fridge.