On 22 May, 19:21, bob wrote:
On Fri, 22 May 2009 09:04:04 -0700 (PDT), Frank Booth Snr

wrote:
On 21 May, 08:39, bob wrote:
On Wed, 20 May 2009 15:23:58 -0700 (PDT), Frank Booth Snr

wrote:
What is the variety/name of the rose?

Don't know. Could you identify it from a pic? It's not quite in
flower yet.
That's not as straightforward as it seems as some roses of different
varities have similar looking blooms. I'd really need to know whether
it's Hybrid Tea or Floribunda type.as they are pruned a bit
differently. How old is the rose, and does it tend to throw up several
stems each year or just the odd 1 or 2.?

The rose was here before I took the house so can't tell you how old.
But here's a pic and I'll tell you what I know.

http://i665.photobucket.com/albums/v...usser/rose.jpg

The main stem is a good 5cms thick and 50 cms high. It looks
weathered and quite old.

From here (the graft) there are 5 main stems about 2-3 cms thick also
aged and wizened in appearance.

From those have sprung dozens of stems, much of it new growth since I
cut back quite agressively. Most of these stems are out of the
picture at the top and reaching for the sky.

It looks like a very vigorous floribunda on a standard, which at least
is a sign of good health. However it's better to have had a hybrid tea
or less vigorous floribunda grafted onto a standard There's nothing
much you can do now as further hard pruning might shock the rose at
this time of year. Leave that until November. Meanwhile let it bloom,
and as the blooms finish, dead-head them. You can cut out all spindly
growths back to a main stem during the coming months. In November
while it is mild cut back all stems to a couple of buds on each branch
just above the 5 main stems,removing all dead and diseased stems and
all ingrowing ones. In late February/early March, you should start to
see pink buds forming on these 5 main stems. Prune each branch down to
the nearest outer facing bud, using a pruning saw, unless secateurs
are
strong enough The cut should be made just above each bud and sloping
at 45º away from the bud. Rub out any inward shoots that break below,
within the next few weeks. But allow any strong outward shoots that
break just above the graft as these will replace the old thick ones in
the
coming years.This will shape the rose for the future. Meanwhile from
now you should spray the leaves every few weeks with fungicide to
prevent blackspot and rust.