"jeff" wrote in message
...


Any pointers om either equipment or technique?


good advice given so far. Recommend you read the basic rules of thumb
included in the Raindrip.com booklet ( link below) which I found does make a
huge difference in performance(specifically length of 1/2 hose, length of
1/4 tubing and total gph per system) also don't mix emitters up--- keep the
drips and sprinklers on separate circuits if you want best performance.
There is mention of which ones can be grouped together.

http://66.241.193.32/cms/files2/Raindrip_DWME_2008.pdf

I use the micro jets (red tops) rather than the sprinklers which have a
tendency to stick and clog, also the newer adjustable drips ( 0-10 gph)
will give you a bit more flexibility than the 1/2, 1, or 2 gph button drips.

Keep bends and connectors to a min. Ensure you have overlap.

Timer work great, it adds more flexibility in hot weather. I use this Meinor
timer http://tinyurl.com/mjhbzc rather than the similar Raindrip model.
less expensive, better quality.

My area requires an anti-siphon on any sprinkler system as a backflow
preventor even though my sillcock has anti-siphon.

The pressure regulator is good to have especially if you have flow rate
variations. Previous, I had hoses pop out of the 1/2 compression
connectors, which I also changed to screw tighten ones rather than the
push-in compression type as much as I could.

I found there is a size difference in some of the tube pipe and compression
connectors being sold in the various Big Box stores as 1/2 inch poly, some
coming out of China is metric, not quite a fit for compression connectors.
So stay with one brand as much as possible for the 1/2 components.

Don't use the misters for plant watering.

Get extra stakes, you will need em. Kids, dogs, nosy neighbors and such
will break em

Look around to find the more flexible 1/4 tubing if you can, not around much
these days. The newer 1/4 hard poly has a lot of memory.

Ensure you winterize the system.