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micro irrigation
"jeff" wrote in message ... Any pointers om either equipment or technique? good advice given so far. Recommend you read the basic rules of thumb included in the Raindrip.com booklet ( link below) which I found does make a huge difference in performance(specifically length of 1/2 hose, length of 1/4 tubing and total gph per system) also don't mix emitters up--- keep the drips and sprinklers on separate circuits if you want best performance. There is mention of which ones can be grouped together. http://66.241.193.32/cms/files2/Raindrip_DWME_2008.pdf I use the micro jets (red tops) rather than the sprinklers which have a tendency to stick and clog, also the newer adjustable drips ( 0-10 gph) will give you a bit more flexibility than the 1/2, 1, or 2 gph button drips. Keep bends and connectors to a min. Ensure you have overlap. Timer work great, it adds more flexibility in hot weather. I use this Meinor timer http://tinyurl.com/mjhbzc rather than the similar Raindrip model. less expensive, better quality. My area requires an anti-siphon on any sprinkler system as a backflow preventor even though my sillcock has anti-siphon. The pressure regulator is good to have especially if you have flow rate variations. Previous, I had hoses pop out of the 1/2 compression connectors, which I also changed to screw tighten ones rather than the push-in compression type as much as I could. I found there is a size difference in some of the tube pipe and compression connectors being sold in the various Big Box stores as 1/2 inch poly, some coming out of China is metric, not quite a fit for compression connectors. So stay with one brand as much as possible for the 1/2 components. Don't use the misters for plant watering. Get extra stakes, you will need em. Kids, dogs, nosy neighbors and such will break em Look around to find the more flexible 1/4 tubing if you can, not around much these days. The newer 1/4 hard poly has a lot of memory. Ensure you winterize the system. |
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