Thread: moss
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Old 02-04-2010, 03:12 AM posted to alt.home.lawn.garden
Eggs Zachtly Eggs Zachtly is offline
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First recorded activity by GardenBanter: Jul 2006
Posts: 846
Default moss

Clarkky... said:

"Eggs Zachtly" wrote in message
...
willshak said:

Clarkky... wrote the following:
I have moss lots of it, but the front yard is the part I'm concerned
about,
it's like shag carpet!
anything I should do besides lime the crap out of it?
I know drainage is a cause too but I think it drains OK, I am surrounded
by
pine trees also
I suppose I could have it removed and put turf down but I'm CHEAP.
Clarkky...


The only thing that grows under pine trees is moss, or an acidic loving
groundcover.
The third option is mulch.
Grass seed won't grow and sod may not take root and will die.
Google - grass under pine trees


Nope. We've plenty of grass growing under pines. Keep the needles raked
up, and
adjust the pH accordingly (lime like hell should do it).
--

Eggs


Hey Eggs,
Do you actually check the PH or "wing" it?


Check it, d00d. Home test kits are cheap, or you can take several samples from
an area of the yard, and take them to your local co-op. They'll give you the
results (probably for a nominal fee), telling you exactly what to put down, and
what quantities.

Won't do much long-term good if you don't keep up with the removal of the pine
straw.

most of the moss is not directly under the trees but it is in the general
direction of the rain runoff
I can picture myself having to buy a pallet of lime, my front "yard" is 247'
X 80'


Yup. It just might take that much, *if* you have to treat the whole yard. The
whole yard might not need it, though. Break the yard up into areas, take samples
from each area, combine the samples from each specific area in a baggie, and
take it to get tested. That's definately got to be the first thing you do.
There's no sense in guessing what you need in your yard, when the facilities are
available to tell you exactly what you need.

I'd get the testing done pretty soon, also. The optimal time to apply lime is
the fall. EARLY spring works, but the sooner, the better. And, keep in mind that
it's not a permanent fix. If you can bring the pH to 6.5, *and* you keep up with
the pine straw removal diligently, you can expect to repeat the treatment every
4-5 years. So, the cost factor goes up. It's all in how bad you really want a
lawn that will compete with your pine trees.

If it were me, I'd plant shrubs, ferns, and other plants that thrive in
high-acid environments. You'd have the potential to have a pretty cool yard
which doesn't necessarily have to contain a large "lawn" area. Designate
certain, smaller sections to turf (which will be easier on the wallet), and make
other areas landscape beds with appropriate plantings (and maybe hardscape
features (rocks, boulders, a dry creek, etc). Something to think about. =)

--

Eggs

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