In article
,
"Dan L." wrote:

In article
,
Billy wrote:

In article ,
The Cook wrote:

On Tue, 06 Apr 2010 21:50:04 -0700, Billy
wrote:

In article ,
"David Hare-Scott" wrote:

General Schvantzkoph wrote:
On Wed, 07 Apr 2010 09:41:05 +1000, David Hare-Scott wrote:

General Schvantzkoph wrote:
I
thought I'd post that info here. I define the start date as the
day
I put them in a glass to soak. My technique is to soak in water
overnight, then put them on a wet paper towel placed between two
plates. I add water to the towels as needed to keep them wet (once
or twice a day).


This method is used to display the progress of growing seedlings
for
eductaional purposes but I don't understand why you would you do
this to grow the plants. What is wrong with starting them in trays
of seedling mix and pricking them out when big enough?

David

It maximizes yield because you only put growing seeds into the pots,
and you don't have to put more then one in a pot because you know
that that the plant is alive.

Pricking out from a tray has the same result in that you only work
with
successful germinations so the labour content is the same. Trays have
the
advantage that the seedling is in growing medium and thus getting
nutrients
right from the start and it can put roots down and shoots up which
can't
happen properly between paper. I am aware that nutrients are not
required
at the start of the germination process but in a non-nutrient medium
you
have to be on hand to plant them out before the food in the seed
itself
is
exhausted. In a nutrient medium it is getting fed and can commence
photosynthesis as soon as it is ready and you can afford to wait until
the
seedling is larger and easier to handle before pricking out.


How often are you in the position where using every viable seed is
important? If I was given four rare heirloom seeds to grow out I
might
consider using paper to baby each and every one. Typically you have
many
more seeds than you need plants. Maybe I am missing something but I
don't
see the benefit of growing between paper, seems like a lot of fiddling
about
for no great gain.

David

When you start multiple seeds in the same tiny cell, by the time that
they are big and sturdy, their roots have intertwined, and it can be a
real bitch to separate them. I know because that is the way I've done
it. I get 70% to 100% successful outcomes with my old way of
germination, but I'd like to improve it. Seems that you would also
reduce the shock of having many of the root hairs stripped off during
separation, leading to a more rapid development of the plant. With the
over all method, laid out by Thompson, you could also germinate more
seeds in a smaller area. The guy's a Pom, maybe your library has him.
Check it out.


I don't put multiple seeds in a single cell. I use these from Lee
Valley. Start in the 72 cell starters for the first round and then
transplant into the 32 cell.

1 seed per cell? Do you save seed, use fresh seed, or left over seed
from previous years?

I use at least 3 seeds per cell, and if they are left over seeds, more.
The older the seed, the more I use, especially if it hasn't been
refrigerated. If I get multiple germinations, which happens often, I'd
separate the plants, when they had a few leaves on them by holding the
base of the plants between my thumb and index finger with the roots
draped down across my palm, and then gently hose the dirt off starting
from the bottom of the roots, as if you were combing out long hair.

It seems more efficient to me, in that I get many plants started in a
short time. I have one small 2', 2 tube T5 over a heating pad, and a 4'
T5 to nurture the seedling with. Sometimes it gets crowded, like this
year when I had 6 trays on 2 per 8 hour shifts, circulating under the 4'
T5. Finally the weather improved enough for me to get two trays outside,
and I've been planting the onions, lettuce, and beets. The tomatoes and
cabbage and squash are still out there. I'm prepping the tomato beds
today. They should be ready in 2 weeks. I may need to get some 6' spaced
drip line, so that I can squeeze the tomatoes close together. Typically,
I've spaced them 2' apart, but the "Vegetable Gardener' Bible" by Edward
C. Smith.
http://www.amazon.com/Vegetable-Gard...Gardening/dp/1
580172121/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1206815454&sr=1-1
says that on supports, they can be 15" apart. I have 12 varieties among
the 16 tomatoes that I want to plant.

I need to get the outside pots in the ground so that I can rotate more
plants to the outside, and start germinating flowers and herbs.

Currently I am doing the same as susan, using 72 cell trays. I am using
newly purchased seed. My friend uses the 144 cell trays (same space as
72 tray). I tend to have an eighty percent germination rate. Next year I
may try the 144 cell trays. Also next year I am going to try my hand at
seed saving. New learning curve coming up. So I may try other techniques
if my success rate is much lower or have a need for more plants in a
smaller space.

Depending on the seed size. I tend to place one seed per cell. Smaller
seeds I tend to put in more than one seed and use scissors cut those
competing plants out (Does not disturb roots). Time efficient but not
plant efficient.

I got the 2005 Thompson book last month - still reading during free time.
I tried looking through the book for the paper towel method for starting
new plants. I could not find it.
That's not in the book. That's the General's technique.
It may be in the book as I continue
reading it. Just got done with Chapter 4. Basic Techniques with Seeds
and Cuttings is Chapter 5.

Sometimes older books can be useful. Please let us know if the newer
book is an updated version of the older one or something new.
You got it.
--
"Fascism should more properly be called corporatism because it is the
merger of state and corporate power." - Benito Mussolini.

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