In article
,
Billy wrote:
In article
,
Peppermint Patootie wrote:
In article
,
Billy wrote:
"wood often contains potentially FUNGI-TOXIC compounds, which are
deposited in the heartwood. In broad-leaved trees the toxic compounds
are usually tannins, well know for their ability to cross-link proteins,
making animal skins resistant to decay. In contrast, conifers contain a
range of phenolic compounds such as terpenes, stilbenes, flavonoids and
tropolones. The most toxic of the tropolones are the thujaplicins which
act as uncouplers of oxidative phosphorylation; they are particularly
abundant in cedarwood, making this a naturally decay-resistant wood for
high-quality garden furnishings, etc."
http://www.biology.ed.ac.uk/research...Biology/woodro
ts.htm

I have no idea what this means.

It means that cedarwood will take longer to turn into plant food, and to
the extent that it is water soluble, may suppress soil fungi.

It's fine by me if the cedar takes a while to decompose. The soil the
plants will be in is very good, and I'd appreciate having mulch that
lasts the season without needing to be replenished. I know that cedar
boards eventually decompose because my old raised bed which were made of
cedar are falling apart after 12 years. The cedar shavings, BTW, are
actually unused "Cedarific" cat litter which my cats don't like. I have
a huge bag and am trying to find a use for it.


---

Teaming with Microbes: A Gardener's Guide to the Soil Food Web
Jeff Lowenfels and Wayne Lewis
http://www.amazon.com/Teaming-Microb...l/dp/088192777
5/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1206815176&sr= 1-1
(Available at a library near you.)

Chapter 1

Soil bacteria and FUNGI are like small bags of fertilizer, retaining in
their bodies nitrogen and other nutrients they gain from root exudates
and other organic matter (such as those sloughed-off root-tip cells).
Carrying on the analogy, soil protozoa and nematodes act as ³fertilizer
spreaders" by releasing , the nutrients locked up in the bacteria and
FUNGI ³fertilizer bags." The nematodes and protozoa in the soil come
along and eat the bacteria and FUNGI in the, rhizosphere. They digest
what they need to survive and excrete excess carbon and other nutrients
as waste.

there are other benefits. The nets or webs FUNGI form around roots act
as physical barriers to invasion and protect plants from pathogenic
fungi and bacteria. Bacteria coat surfaces so thoroughly, there is no
room for others to attach themselves. If something impacts these FUNGI
or bacteria and their numbers drop or they disappear, the plant can
easily be attacked.

Special soil fungi, called mycorrhizal FUNGI, establish themselves in a
symbiotic relationship with roots, providing them not only with-physical
protection but with nutrient delivery as well. In return for exudates,
these FUNGI provide water, phosphorus, and other necessary plant
nutrients. Soil food web populations must be in balance, or these FUNGI
are eaten and the plant suffers.

When any member of a soil food web dies, it becomes fodder for other
members of the community. The nutrients in these bodies are passed on to
other members of the community. A larger predator may eat them alive, or
they may be decayed after they die. One way or the other,FUNGI and
bacteria get involved, be it decaying the organism directly or working
on the dung of the successful eater. It makes no difference. Nutrients
are preserved and eventually are retained in the bodies of even the
smallest FUNGI and bacteria. When these are in the rhizosphere, they
release nutrients in plant-available form when they, in turn, are
consumed or die.
---

OK. I'm more accustomed to fungi being something one has to treat when
it infects plants (or animals/people), so I would have regarded
fungicidal tendencies as a good thing. I am now better educated on the
topic. Thanks.

Uh, no. I want moisture preservation and week suffocation from my mulch.

Week suffocation? Do you mean weed suppression?

Yeah. Weed suffocation. Typo.

By blocking the
sunlight, the newsprint and mulch will suppress weeds and preserve
moisture. I think it best to prep the garden 6 weeks in advance to allow
the newsprint to start breaking down, because it can direct water away
from where you want it.
If using before 6 weeks, position drip emmiters to water plants, or
perforate the newsprint with a pitchfork.

I think I mentioned in my original post that the mulch was going on top
of the soaker hoses.

I haven't got any 6 weeks at this point. I want to put in beans,
squash, etc. next week, and my tomatoes are arriving at the end of May.
And there's lots of other work needing to be done.

The information below seems to be about composting.
Same deal whether it breaks down in a pile, spread as mulch, or worked
into the soil. A carbon/nitrogen ratio of 25/1 affords a balanced diet
for your soil. That (sorry, if this is overkill;O) is what "organic
gardening" is; feeding the soil to feed the plants.

Yes, I know. I compost, but weeds are so vicious in my yard and
time/energy in short supply, so I'm hoping for mulch that will do its
job and stick around for a while.

I hope this helps.

You've been very helpful. Thanks!

Priscilla
--
"What you fail to understand is that criticising established authority by means
of argument and evidence is a crucial aspect of how science works."
- Chris Malcolm