songbird wrote:
we have fruit bushes for the birds along
the northern edge. we have empty space out
back (on the other side of the drainage
ditch) which is in danger of being overrun
by poplars and honeysuckles. i'll have a
few year window yet to head that off.

in recent readings on permaculture i
really enjoyed seeing Sepp Holzer's methods
of growing fruit trees as he doesn't do
sprays, pruning or baby his trees. often
to reforest an area he'll include in his
seed mix (besides veggy seeds) seeds from
stone fruits, apples, etc.


The problem with this is that you don't get to choose your rootstock nor the
fruiting characteristics. These are the reason why nearly all fruit trees
are grafted.


as an inexpensive way to get started
with fruit trees in an area out back it
was enough inspiration so that we're going
to work on it (may take a few years to get
going).

to get the fruit tree bugs and predators
established i thought it would be also a
good thing to start seedlings even if there
aren't any sure hopes of getting edible
fruits, perhaps most of them will be inedible
or bait for deer. being persistent as i am
will pay off eventually.

the problem is the whole area is clay and
can be fairly wet at times. any seeds/trees
will have to adapt to that.


Yes but only if you give them a fighting chance. Do NOT plant them in
holes, as these will become ponds and the trees will die.

if i can gradually get the whole back
area converted to mixed fruit trees and the
understory supporting plants over the course
of the next 20-30 years that will be some
fun.

having some grafting root stock to
work with will be a side benefit. green
apples can be a source of pectin. fruit
woods are nice to work with for furniture
or as a source of aromatic woods for
grilling.


If you know how to do grafting then at least start with a bud that is of
known good fruiting ability.

the questions a from seeds, time to
actual production for: apples, cherries,
peaches, apricots and pears?


4-5 years

D