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Old 28-07-2013, 06:39 PM posted to rec.gardens
Billy[_10_] Billy[_10_] is offline
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First recorded activity by GardenBanter: Mar 2010
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Default Tomato foliage withering

In article ,
Higgs Boson wrote:

I had this problem with basil. Tried a second year with same results. I
used the bed for lettuce for the next 3 years, and basil was OK on the
4th year. Seven years is guaranteed to remove Fusarium Wilt, but it can
happen sooner.

I managed to overwhelm my tomato bed this year (2 - 3 yr. rotation), and
potted 3 of the early ripening ones in 5 gal. pots. They are ahead of
the bedded tomatoes, and give me something to nibble on while waiting
for the rest of the crop.

How were the tomatoes from your diseased vines?

This may be helpful. Len used to often post here, but I haven't seen
anything from him for awhile.
http://www.lensgarden.com.au/straw_bale_garden.htm

He is also somewhat evangelical, but separates his gardening, form his
beliefs rather well.





On Saturday, July 27, 2013 10:13:45 PM UTC-7, Billy wrote:
In article ,

Higgs Boson wrote:



On Monday, July 22, 2013 4:14:20 AM UTC-7, songbird wrote:


Higgs Boson wrote:




...




They started out like gangbusters; bore plenty of fruit.




But foliage began to look crappy and twisted (no critters;




I checked), and plants have now been almost denuded.








what kind of tomatoes?












They have had food, water, and plenty of sunshine. So why?...








dunno. need a better description than "crappy




and twisted".








picture of leaf and stem would help, but even




then it could be something other than disease.












This is So Calif coastal.












songbird




OK, finally took pic.




http://tinypic.com/r/2z8szsz/5




I took another that showed a healthy plant right behind this one, but got


*****ed up on TinyPic. Can't seem to figure it out g




HTH




HB








HTH




Fusarium Wilt, this fungal disease most often affects tomatoes. It

enters a plant through natural openings and wounds in the roots and grow

up into the stem, where it blocks the supply of nutrients and water to

the leaves. The first indication of infection is when a part of the

plant starts to wilt on sunny afternoons, though it usually recovers

when the temperature drops (this often starts to happen when plants

begin bearing fruit). Eventually the infection spreads through the whole

plant, lower leaves turn yellow (and may eventually die) and the stem

becomes discolored. Plants donıt always die, but it slows growth and

reduces yields. Fusarium is rarely a problem for commercial growers

because most modern tomato varieties have been bred to be very

resistant. If you stick with resistant varieties you donıt have to worry

about it either. Many of the older heirlooms donıt have any resistance.

If any plants start to show symptoms of partial wilting you should

remove them immediately to reduce the spread of this disease. The spores

can survive in the soil for up to 7 years. It looks as if the tomatoes

may be in a raised box, so if it is Fusarium Wilt, don't reuse the soil

for Solanaceae. Be sure to disinfect tools used in the soil to prevent

spreading the disease.

[...]


Mierda! Thanks -- I guess!! g I will dig up and trash tomorrow!!! And
warn nursery where purchased.

Hope disease will not attack other tomatoes in same general area but some of
them already look iffy. Sheeeeeeet!!!

The two originally infected plants are the "tried & true" tomato varieties
sold in this area *forever*. Must have been infected when sold ??

solancea: I don't eat eggplant, but I love Bell Peppers. Just out of
curiosity I had purchased (from Home Depot, $10.98) a large container of Red
Bells that I set down in the middle of that area. It does not have contact
with soil; only aperture for water to exit, but will move out of caution.
The label said leave the plants in there; fruit will mature. Gardener
agrees. Huge Bells are ripening. If I get 10 fruits, that will pay for the
plant, since Bells are very expen$ive, even in summer.

I went on-line for ways to disinfect the soil. Gardens Alive had this:

http://www.gardensalive.com/article.asp?ai=786

and this:

http://www.gardensalive.com/disease-control/c/15/

Big pain to make raised beds, bring soil from elsewhere in yard and buy
commercial soil to modify. But next year, if I'm spared, will have to do it,
because this area gets the most sun considering the near beach
morning/evening overcast and the ****ed up seasons these last few years
(global warming).

HB

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