After spending time with local club members, I have more questions than
answers about what I should use for soil in the desert. Everyone I have
talked to uses cactus mix, one person in particular uses cactus mix with
composted bark and peat. He says that raw organics that haven't been
composted take nitrogen from the tree as they decompose. I have been
using the raw fir bark, turface and pumice mix and have found it to dry
out way too fast. At this point, I don't see anyone using a coarse mix,
but I have seen composted cactus mix work very well. I have bought
trees from Mike Hagedorn that are in a soilless mix of lava rock,
akadama and pumice. They do great in Oracle (Zone 10) but are
traumatized or killed by the desert heat (Zone 12) in that mix. The
ones I have repotted in 1/2 organic mix turn right around and are very
healthy. Finally, is the composted material better than raw? It seems
the desert puts the trees and soil to the most extreme test and it is a
bit confusing. Though, the experiments continue...
Brian in Tucson

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At 06:09 AM 9/7/2003 -0700, Brian Berggoetz wrote:
After spending time with local club members, I have more questions than
answers about what I should use for soil in the desert. Everyone I have
talked to uses cactus mix, one person in particular uses cactus mix with
composted bark and peat. He says that raw organics that haven't been
composted take nitrogen from the tree as they decompose. I have been
using the raw fir bark, turface and pumice mix and have found it to dry
out way too fast. At this point, I don't see anyone using a coarse mix,
but I have seen composted cactus mix work very well. I have bought
trees from Mike Hagedorn that are in a soilless mix of lava rock,
akadama and pumice. They do great in Oracle (Zone 10) but are
traumatized or killed by the desert heat (Zone 12) in that mix. The
ones I have repotted in 1/2 organic mix turn right around and are very
healthy. Finally, is the composted material better than raw? It seems
the desert puts the trees and soil to the most extreme test and it is a
bit confusing. Though, the experiments continue...
Brian in Tucson

Ah! Soil mixing!

I see you are very observant on what does and doesn't work in your area. I
encourage you to continue to experiment until you get what you need for
your area.

It is true that raw organics take nitrogen away to decompose, but you can
feed around this. You just have to be careful to feed a diluted solution
often. I feed every other week in summer. I alternate foods several times
during the season. I use fish emulsion, a sea weed mix, miracle grow,
Peters, and 0-10-10 as a go to sleep and wake up food. I use Whitney Farms
starter food in my plant mix as well as green sand, cotton seed meal, and a
sea weed mix. I use these sparingly.

Other considerations are how often do you water? I live in Northern CA in
what used to be a semi arid region, but we don't have the temperature
fluctuations you would have in the desert. I change my mix and add more
organics depending on if it is a drought year or not. I have my watering
system set up to go for 5 minutes twice and day and I also hand water
selected plants. My current mix is designed to be fast draining, but has
moisture retention. This way I can flush what is needed through the soil
rapidly.

My mix is different than folks that live more than 15 miles from me because
some parts of this valley are dryer and hotter than others. I also adjust
it to suit specific trees. It has taken me 20 years to have the soil
knowledge I have now. I used to change mixes every time a new guy came
through town with a demo. I lost plants using soil mixes that were generic
instead of designed for my area or watering habits.

I use combinations of red lava, pumice, akadama, various composts, peat,
fir bark, sand, planting mix (this is a coarse, partially composed material
sold for CA clay soils). Some times I find things like "forest compost". I
buy a bag, take it home and check it out. If it is not too fine, I go back
for more. Supersoil Orchid Mix used to be nice as part of a mix or for
shohin, (coarse peat, fine fir bark and sand) but the recent varieties have
too much dust in them. I go to a garden supply center and have bulk
ingredients dumped in my driveway. Then I shovel it into plastic garbage
cans and wheel them into the back yard. I like this because I can handle
the ingredients before I buy. Also with bulk ingredients on hand, I only
have to shop every 2-3 years.

Kitsune Miko

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************************************************** ******************************
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+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

Watering is a key factor in the desert, not just because it's hot, but
the old rule of water until it runs out the bottom doesn't apply here in
the summer. The best trees are kept by people who water through tthe
bottom once a day and water the top parts through the rest of the day.
I have to work in the mornings so my wife waters the tops in the morning
and I water through in late afternoons. It's not ideal but I haven't
lost a single tree this summer, which is better than other club members
with much more experience. Mike Hagedorn showed me how he even waters
certain spots that get more afternoon sun than other spots that get
morning sun. He also has monster pines with thick foliage.
One other point is about fines. My buddy, the local native expert, says
fines, along with composted organics, is the key to success. Not just
with deciduous but even with natives! He says it's the key to keeping
his Mazanitas as well as he does, and he has a few and some large ones
in small pots. I am currently trying different combinations but am
uncomfortable using much of the fines. The more I discover here the
more I think the normal rules of bonsai are flipped upside down!
Brian in Zone 12

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************************************************** ******************************
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+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

Brian,
Your points are well taken. The best and easiest way to figure out how to
grow trees in a climate is to find someone who already has this figured out.
If their trees (in containers) look good duplicate their soil, pot size,
light exposure as best you can. If their trees do not pass the look test
then find another "expert". From there experiment on your own trees, and in
your own micro-climate will bring you the rest of the way to perfect growing
conditions.
Sounds so very easy.
Jerry Meislik
Whitefish Montana USA
Zone 4-5
http://www.bonsaihunk.8m.com/

Watering is a key factor in the desert, not just because it's hot, but
the old rule of water until it runs out the bottom doesn't apply here in
the summer. The best trees are kept by people who water through tthe
bottom once a day and water the top parts through the rest of the day.
I have to work in the mornings so my wife waters the tops in the morning
and I water through in late afternoons. It's not ideal but I haven't
lost a single tree this summer, which is better than other club members
with much more experience. Mike Hagedorn showed me how he even waters
certain spots that get more afternoon sun than other spots that get
morning sun. He also has monster pines with thick foliage.
One other point is about fines. My buddy, the local native expert, says
fines, along with composted organics, is the key to success. Not just
with deciduous but even with natives! He says it's the key to keeping
his Mazanitas as well as he does, and he has a few and some large ones
in small pots. I am currently trying different combinations but am
uncomfortable using much of the fines. The more I discover here the
more I think the normal rules of bonsai are flipped upside down!
Brian in Zone 12

************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Dale Cochoy++++
************************************************** ******************************
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++