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On 20 Oct 2004 at 13:17, Kitsune Miko wrote:
--- Jim Lewis wrote: the varnish, or lacquer, or polyethylene, or wood hardener, will offer considerable protection because they seal the wood away from nasty thingies. Interestingly enough big tree people (arborists) will not seal dead wood because of locking in nasty thingies. Yeah, that's true, but that's for "big" trees that have limbs cut, then are ignored and "never" looked at again. We, on the other hand, are constantly examining our trees and pampering them and will/would/should notice those nasty thingies if, perchance, we sealed one in. ;-) Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Nature encourages no looseness, pardons no errors. Ralph Waldo Emerson ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
On 20 Oct 2004 at 13:17, Kitsune Miko wrote:
--- Jim Lewis wrote: the varnish, or lacquer, or polyethylene, or wood hardener, will offer considerable protection because they seal the wood away from nasty thingies. Interestingly enough big tree people (arborists) will not seal dead wood because of locking in nasty thingies. Yeah, that's true, but that's for "big" trees that have limbs cut, then are ignored and "never" looked at again. We, on the other hand, are constantly examining our trees and pampering them and will/would/should notice those nasty thingies if, perchance, we sealed one in. ;-) Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Nature encourages no looseness, pardons no errors. Ralph Waldo Emerson ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
Kitsune: I think we are comparing apples and oranges here. Based
upon solid botanical research on trees, Alex Shigo, in his seminal book, A New Tree Biology, has educated about the compartmentalization process trees go through when properly pruned by respecting their "branch collars". Shigo has shown that the application of paint and other tree "sealers" does more harm than good by disrupting the compartmentalization process necessary for a tree to maintain a healthy immune system and by, often as not, trapping destructive organisms behind the sealer and making it harder to discover and treat their presence. With bonsai we are dealing with much smaller cuts. But more important than this, we are talking about a true sealer which has penetrating qualities to preserve already dead wood. This is not treating a wound, per se, except in the broadest definition of the term. For this reason, I believe the practice of applying a penetrating marine grade sealer, such as GitRot or MinWax Wood Hardener, is a safe and acceptable practice. Alan Walker http://bonsai-bci.com http://LCBSBonsai.org --- Jim Lewis wrote: While I have a hard time believing that any antifungal agent (including lime sulfur) applied to dead wood on a bonsai will maintain antifungal properties for more than a few hours, or will affect the fungi that MAY attack the wood in any event, the varnish, or lacquer, or polyethylene, or wood hardener, will offer considerable protection because they seal the wood away from nasty thingies. -----Original Message----- From: Kitsune Miko Interestingly enough big tree people (arborists) will not seal dead wood because of locking in nasty thingies. Kitsune Miko ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
Kitsune: I think we are comparing apples and oranges here. Based
upon solid botanical research on trees, Alex Shigo, in his seminal book, A New Tree Biology, has educated about the compartmentalization process trees go through when properly pruned by respecting their "branch collars". Shigo has shown that the application of paint and other tree "sealers" does more harm than good by disrupting the compartmentalization process necessary for a tree to maintain a healthy immune system and by, often as not, trapping destructive organisms behind the sealer and making it harder to discover and treat their presence. With bonsai we are dealing with much smaller cuts. But more important than this, we are talking about a true sealer which has penetrating qualities to preserve already dead wood. This is not treating a wound, per se, except in the broadest definition of the term. For this reason, I believe the practice of applying a penetrating marine grade sealer, such as GitRot or MinWax Wood Hardener, is a safe and acceptable practice. Alan Walker http://bonsai-bci.com http://LCBSBonsai.org --- Jim Lewis wrote: While I have a hard time believing that any antifungal agent (including lime sulfur) applied to dead wood on a bonsai will maintain antifungal properties for more than a few hours, or will affect the fungi that MAY attack the wood in any event, the varnish, or lacquer, or polyethylene, or wood hardener, will offer considerable protection because they seal the wood away from nasty thingies. -----Original Message----- From: Kitsune Miko Interestingly enough big tree people (arborists) will not seal dead wood because of locking in nasty thingies. Kitsune Miko ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
Yeah, that's true, but that's for "big" trees that have limbs
cut, then are ignored and "never" looked at again. As a Cornellian, I was taught that trees healed better if one left them alone. However, preserving a jin is different than lopping off a limb. In general, an exposed jin is not an entryway to disease, although it's a good idea to limit jin to species that have dead wood in nature. People who jin figs are just asking for trouble. We, on the other hand, are constantly examining our trees and pampering them and will/would/should notice those nasty thingies if, perchance, we sealed one in. ;-) I have these Nepalese statues that have been in my possession for over TWO YEARS. Then they began to have sawdust eruptions. Amazingly, they were infested with powderpost beetles, which can survive as larva in dry treated wood for two years or more. I bagged the carvings and killed the beetles as they emerged. I think the little exit holes just add charm to the statues. |
Yeah, that's true, but that's for "big" trees that have limbs
cut, then are ignored and "never" looked at again. As a Cornellian, I was taught that trees healed better if one left them alone. However, preserving a jin is different than lopping off a limb. In general, an exposed jin is not an entryway to disease, although it's a good idea to limit jin to species that have dead wood in nature. People who jin figs are just asking for trouble. We, on the other hand, are constantly examining our trees and pampering them and will/would/should notice those nasty thingies if, perchance, we sealed one in. ;-) I have these Nepalese statues that have been in my possession for over TWO YEARS. Then they began to have sawdust eruptions. Amazingly, they were infested with powderpost beetles, which can survive as larva in dry treated wood for two years or more. I bagged the carvings and killed the beetles as they emerged. I think the little exit holes just add charm to the statues. |
Nina Shishkoff wrote: I bagged the carvings and killed the beetles as they emerged. I think the little exit holes just add charm to the statues. microwawes? anyway not all woods are suitables for jin .. many like pine decay very quickly.. nature shows us the way for hardy wood MSN messanger / or ICQ 25 666 169 4 Private Mail : «»«»«» Just for today... don't worry .....be happy «»«»«» |
Nina Shishkoff wrote: I bagged the carvings and killed the beetles as they emerged. I think the little exit holes just add charm to the statues. microwawes? anyway not all woods are suitables for jin .. many like pine decay very quickly.. nature shows us the way for hardy wood MSN messanger / or ICQ 25 666 169 4 Private Mail : «»«»«» Just for today... don't worry .....be happy «»«»«» |
Jim Lewis wrote: Lime sulfuring of deadwood is another of those slavish, follow- the-leader techniques of bonsai-dom. (IMHO) The UGLIEST lime sulfuring I see regularly down here is on bald cypress which NEVER have white bleached deadwood (except when sitting on bonsai tables). I agree with you all these sophisticated plants we drool before exibitions are nit *reality* are sophistications of reality .. and often grotesque .. Instead if systemic anti fungal paste is applied and after drying, is brushed off with a nylon bursh, it looks better and protects the wood from fungi. I use lemon( citric acid) and sea salt when I do small ones.. to keep a little branch ,instead of cutting it off as unnecessary I do NOT make jins as most of trees are far too young to do that ... and I do not do yamadori .. have no room to stock huge bonsais MSN messanger / or ICQ 25 666 169 4 Private Mail : «»«»«» Just for today... don't worry .....be happy «»«»«» |
Jim Lewis wrote: Lime sulfuring of deadwood is another of those slavish, follow- the-leader techniques of bonsai-dom. (IMHO) The UGLIEST lime sulfuring I see regularly down here is on bald cypress which NEVER have white bleached deadwood (except when sitting on bonsai tables). I agree with you all these sophisticated plants we drool before exibitions are nit *reality* are sophistications of reality .. and often grotesque .. Instead if systemic anti fungal paste is applied and after drying, is brushed off with a nylon bursh, it looks better and protects the wood from fungi. I use lemon( citric acid) and sea salt when I do small ones.. to keep a little branch ,instead of cutting it off as unnecessary I do NOT make jins as most of trees are far too young to do that ... and I do not do yamadori .. have no room to stock huge bonsais MSN messanger / or ICQ 25 666 169 4 Private Mail : «»«»«» Just for today... don't worry .....be happy «»«»«» |
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Could you please tell as to what is *Minwax*? What is the generic name of
this compound? Anil Kaushik Bonsai Club (India) Chandigarh " The City Beautiful" ----- Original Message ----- From: "Nina Shishkoff" .......But as so many people have pointed out, Minwax is better for many reasons. Nina ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
Could you please tell as to what is *Minwax*? What is the generic name of
this compound? Anil Kaushik Bonsai Club (India) Chandigarh " The City Beautiful" ----- Original Message ----- From: "Nina Shishkoff" .......But as so many people have pointed out, Minwax is better for many reasons. Nina ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
On 22 Oct 2004 at 20:04, Anil Kaushik wrote:
Could you please tell as to what is *Minwax*? What is the generic name of this compound? "MinWax" is a company name. The company makes wood stains varnishes, poly-whatever finishes, wood filler, and a number of other wood-finish related products. The MinWax product we speak about most often here is a "wood hardener." I have no idea what's in it; and it doesn't smell like anything _I_ recognize. ;-) The product is made to soak into and harden pulpy, rotted wood -- as in porches and decks. There is a similar product -- GitRot -- that is intended to do the same for rotted wood in boat hulls or decks, but it is made by another company. There may be other, similar, products. Neither of these, probably, is available in India, but you could do a web search for "wood hardener" and see what pops up. The other MinWax product(s) I find very useful are the broad-tip felt pens filled with wood stain of various kinds. I use these to disguise major branch cuts until they callus over and to color jin and shari on deciduous trees where the white look of lime sulfur is totally inappropriate. The "pickled oak" color even imparts a lightish color to bare wood. Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Only where people have learned to appreciate and cherish the landscape and its living cover will they treat it with the care and respect it should have - Paul Bigelow Sears. ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
On 22 Oct 2004 at 20:04, Anil Kaushik wrote:
Could you please tell as to what is *Minwax*? What is the generic name of this compound? "MinWax" is a company name. The company makes wood stains varnishes, poly-whatever finishes, wood filler, and a number of other wood-finish related products. The MinWax product we speak about most often here is a "wood hardener." I have no idea what's in it; and it doesn't smell like anything _I_ recognize. ;-) The product is made to soak into and harden pulpy, rotted wood -- as in porches and decks. There is a similar product -- GitRot -- that is intended to do the same for rotted wood in boat hulls or decks, but it is made by another company. There may be other, similar, products. Neither of these, probably, is available in India, but you could do a web search for "wood hardener" and see what pops up. The other MinWax product(s) I find very useful are the broad-tip felt pens filled with wood stain of various kinds. I use these to disguise major branch cuts until they callus over and to color jin and shari on deciduous trees where the white look of lime sulfur is totally inappropriate. The "pickled oak" color even imparts a lightish color to bare wood. Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Only where people have learned to appreciate and cherish the landscape and its living cover will they treat it with the care and respect it should have - Paul Bigelow Sears. ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
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