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#1
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[IBC] Replanting Forests ?
Sure is quiet in here !!
Everyone in the northern hemisphere gone dormant ? I'd like to start a discussion about replanting forests. I have three. A three tree gingko (thanks Carl !) A seven tree larch (my creation) A 21 tree Amur Maple (club auction) Sometime this spring I'd like to repot the gingko and larch, and check the roots on the maple. This is a scary proposition for anyone who's never done a forest before. Any words of wisdom from my learned friends ? Mark Hill - Harrisburg PA - Zone 6 ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
#2
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On 18 Dec 2004 at 9:11, Mark Hill wrote:
Sure is quiet in here !! Everyone in the northern hemisphere gone dormant ? I'd like to start a discussion about replanting forests. I have three. A three tree gingko (thanks Carl !) A seven tree larch (my creation) A 21 tree Amur Maple (club auction) Sometime this spring I'd like to repot the gingko and larch, and check the roots on the maple. This is a scary proposition for anyone who's never done a forest before. Any words of wisdom from my learned friends ? Yeah. "The books" are silent about repotting forests, aren't they? Lots of info on how to design and plant but zilch about repotting. Anyway. Only repot forests when they are _thoroughly_ rootbound. Treat the 3-tree planting like one tree (assuming the trees are close together. Just don't do a heavy soil removal. Lift the treees and snip long roots. (Do NOT repot unless the trees' roots are thoroughly intertwined and the trees don't move independently when you try to jiggle them.) The bigger ones are more of a problem. Here's what _I_ have done: Remove the moss and any other small plantings. Take a VERY sharp and sturdy knife (it will not be sharp by the time you are done and you may even have to sharpen it midway) and cut down to the bottom of the pot, tray or slab completely around each defined grouping of trees within the main composition, cutting as tightly as you feel comfortable about around each group. I don't remove the trees from their positions, but I DO scoop out the soil from _between_ the groups. I have a very narrow trowel I use for this job. You undoubtedly will find large uncut roots crossing into this unoccupied territory and you will need to cut these with either the SHARP knife or a SHARP root trimmer of some kind. There will be a number of more or less ragged root ends sticking out from the tree clumps. These need to be trimmed cleanly, too. If it appears that there are too many very large roots in that clump, you will need to carefully delve inside the soil there (disturbing the trees as little as possible) and cut some of them (again, cleanly). A scissors with longish blades is useful here, but unless you carefully resharpen them they won't be useful for branches again afterwards. Replace soil from where you scooped it out, add a layer on top (you probably took a good bit of soil off with the moss). Water thoroughly, preferably a gentle shower from a watering can, then wait a few minutes and repeat. Press the fresh soil down with your fingers or a flat trowel, add more if needed, and water again. Sit the whole thing in semi-shade for a week or two. Don't water too much, but don't let it go dry. After a couple of weeks, add soil if needed, then moss -- preferably fresh moss (you've undoubtedly added the old moss to your shady "moss farm" on the north side of your house for harvest again in a few years). I've heard people say to lift forests all at once and treat them like a single tree. When I tried that, the whole damn thing fell apart and I had to start from scratch. I don't think that works for more than 2-3 or maybe 5 trees clumped close together. Good luck, and if others have another (and better way) please let us know, though I don't have any forests that will need work for a couple of years or more. (Except, of course, for a couple that I'm gonna totally redo next spring.) Jim Lewis - - This economy is a wholly owned subsidiary of the environment. - Gaylord Nelson ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
#4
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In a message dated 12/18/2004 9:21:30 AM Eastern Standard Time,
writes: Any words of wisdom from my learned friends? It will depend on a number of things. If the plant's roots are really grown together then you can treat the forest as one plant, remove as much soil as possible from the bottom and sides of the root ball and replant with fresh soil underneath and around the sides, probably in the same container. If the plant's roots are less entwined you can take the forest apart and replant each tree as you did when starting. Or you may find a combination of the above. Two or three trees so entwined it would be unsafe to break them apart and others fairly independent. Or if the forest needs redesign you might add or remove trees. Needless to say, you will need to have your anchoring wire and drainage screen ready. I would be sure to have a suitable pot available unless you are sure you can go back in the same one. Billy on the Florida Space Coast ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
#5
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Sometime this spring I'd like to repot the gingko and larch, and check the
roots on the maple. Mark Hill - Harrisburg PA Have you asked Jim Doyle? My understanding on group plantings is that if they are healthy, you don't yank them out, but you replace wedges of soil between the trees, one wedge a year. I am planning to start this with my 10 year old Chinese pistachio group this spring. Some of these trees are rooted right on to their rock, so I don't think I should mess with them. Iris, Central NY, Zone 5a, Sunset Zone 40 "A tree never hits an automobile except in self defense." - Woody Allen |
#6
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There have been some good suggestions on forest
transplanting. I would add take a picture of the forest before you repot so you have a guide in reassembly. I cut my forrests apart into mini groups and then transplant. I cut in different directions if I remember what I did last time. I take the groups and cut out "V" s in the rootballs. Take out bottom roots, put in new soil, place trees, tie down, add new soil. I replace as much soil as possible. Kits ===== **** "Expectations are resentments under construction." Anne Lamott ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
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