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Tomato Spirals?
Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across a
tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long piece of metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way up. The tomato plant grows into the spiral and gives natural support. The ad claims that it is the most popular way to do it in Europe. Has anybody actually tried these? They are $4.50 a piece and seem like a bargain. I just don't know how sturdy they are. I'd like to try staking this year. Just don't know what method to use. |
Tomato Spirals?
In article ,
"FDR" wrote: Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across a tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long piece of metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way up. The tomato plant grows into the spiral and gives natural support. The ad claims that it is the most popular way to do it in Europe. Has anybody actually tried these? They are $4.50 a piece and seem like a bargain. I just don't know how sturdy they are. I'd like to try staking this year. Just don't know what method to use. I'd sure give it a shot!!! It sounds wunnerful. Traditional tomato cages are almost worthless imho. I've had better luck using 7 ft. x 1" stakes and just carefully tying the vine to the stake and to itself as it grew. K. -- Sprout the Mung Bean to reply... ,,Cat's Haven Hobby Farm,,Katraatcenturyteldotnet,, http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...user id=katra |
Tomato Spirals?
"Katra" wrote in message ... In article , "FDR" wrote: Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across a tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long piece of metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way up. The tomato plant grows into the spiral and gives natural support. The ad claims that it is the most popular way to do it in Europe. Has anybody actually tried these? They are $4.50 a piece and seem like a bargain. I just don't know how sturdy they are. I'd like to try staking this year. Just don't know what method to use. I'd sure give it a shot!!! It sounds wunnerful. The only downside I can see is that they'd be to short. :) Traditional tomato cages are almost worthless imho. I've had better luck using 7 ft. x 1" stakes and just carefully tying the vine to the stake and to itself as it grew. Do you use bamboo? K. -- Sprout the Mung Bean to reply... ,,Cat's Haven Hobby Farm,,Katraatcenturyteldotnet,, http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...user id=katra |
Tomato Spirals?
In article ,
"FDR" wrote: "Katra" wrote in message ... In article , "FDR" wrote: Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across a tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long piece of metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way up. The tomato plant grows into the spiral and gives natural support. The ad claims that it is the most popular way to do it in Europe. Has anybody actually tried these? They are $4.50 a piece and seem like a bargain. I just don't know how sturdy they are. I'd like to try staking this year. Just don't know what method to use. I'd sure give it a shot!!! It sounds wunnerful. The only downside I can see is that they'd be to short. :) That's why I went for the 7' stakes. G Traditional tomato cages are almost worthless imho. I've had better luck using 7 ft. x 1" stakes and just carefully tying the vine to the stake and to itself as it grew. Do you use bamboo? Plastic. They look like green plastic re-bar. I get them from Lowe's for about $4.50 each, but they last for years! K. -- Sprout the Mung Bean to reply... ,,Cat's Haven Hobby Farm,,Katraatcenturyteldotnet,, http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...user id=katra |
Tomato Spirals?
il Mon, 15 Mar 2004 01:57:16 GMT, "FDR" ha scritto:
Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across a tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long piece of metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way up. The tomato plant grows into the spiral and gives natural support. The ad claims that it is the most popular way to do it in Europe. Has anybody actually tried these? They are $4.50 a piece and seem like a bargain. I just don't know how sturdy they are. I'd like to try staking this year. Just don't know what method to use. I read one just a week ago. They put stakes in at each end (10feet) and planted the tomatoes in between. then as they grew they wove twine from one stake to the other, and adding twine as the toms grew taller. I didn't see a picture, but they must use 2 twine each time to hold the plant. It said they grew much better that when individually staked. -- Cheers, Loki [ Brevity is the soul of wit. W.Shakespeare ] |
Tomato Spirals?
In article ,
"Loki" wrote: il Mon, 15 Mar 2004 01:57:16 GMT, "FDR" ha scritto: Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across a tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long piece of metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way up. The tomato plant grows into the spiral and gives natural support. The ad claims that it is the most popular way to do it in Europe. Has anybody actually tried these? They are $4.50 a piece and seem like a bargain. I just don't know how sturdy they are. I'd like to try staking this year. Just don't know what method to use. I read one just a week ago. They put stakes in at each end (10feet) and planted the tomatoes in between. then as they grew they wove twine from one stake to the other, and adding twine as the toms grew taller. I didn't see a picture, but they must use 2 twine each time to hold the plant. It said they grew much better that when individually staked. Neat idea. :-) A simple fence trellis might be even simpler? That's what I use for beans. K. -- Sprout the Mung Bean to reply... ,,Cat's Haven Hobby Farm,,Katraatcenturyteldotnet,, http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...user id=katra |
Tomato Spirals?
On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 01:57:16 GMT, "FDR"
wrote: Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across a tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long piece of metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way up. The tomato plant grows into the spiral and gives natural support. Does anyone know what a full-grown tomato plant with fruit weighs? It seems as if you'd have to sink at least 18" of this slender spike into the ground, leaving 4-1/2' to support the plant. With a single, slender anchor point, and a lot of wind resistance with all the foliage, I can see the stake working loose with every breeze. Also,the plant isn't going to 'naturally' grow within the spiral -- you'll have to twine it around the stake every day or 2. I'd definitely give this one a miss. |
Tomato Spirals?
Frogleg wrote:
On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 01:57:16 GMT, "FDR" wrote: Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across a tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long piece of metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way up. The tomato plant grows into the spiral and gives natural support. Does anyone know what a full-grown tomato plant with fruit weighs? I think its gonna vary. MY bush last year was about 6' high and two foot around. I'd say the most tomatoes it had on it at once was about 10-12 lbs plus the weight of the plant itself, which i'd be wild-ass guessing is ?10,15,20? pounds. WHen I pulled them at end of season I thought they were heavier than expected. My vine, which actually ended up growing as two vines on two stakes, was probably less than that. I used the stackable tomato cages from Gardener's Supply. They are unfortunately expensive(like most of their catalog) but it made caging a 6' bush effortless. My neighbor liked how easy it was to harvest and they didn't keep sliding and collapsing down a stake when heavy with fruit. Neither of us do staking well. Plants always slide down and create tight bends. I am considering buying another four this year despite overpriced costs. It seems as if you'd have to sink at least 18" of this slender spike into the ground, leaving 4-1/2' to support the plant. With a single, slender anchor point, and a lot of wind resistance with all the foliage, I can see the stake working loose with every breeze. Also,the plant isn't going to 'naturally' grow within the spiral -- you'll have to twine it around the stake every day or 2. I'd definitely give this one a miss. DiGiTAL ViNYL (no email) Zone 6b/7, Westchester Co, NY, 1 mile off L.I.Sound 2nd year gardener |
Tomato Spirals?
Frogleg wrote:
On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 01:57:16 GMT, "FDR" wrote: Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across a tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long piece of metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way up. The tomato plant grows into the spiral and gives natural support. Does anyone know what a full-grown tomato plant with fruit weighs? I think its gonna vary. MY bush last year was about 6' high and two foot around. I'd say the most tomatoes it had on it at once was about 10-12 lbs plus the weight of the plant itself, which i'd be wild-ass guessing is ?10,15,20? pounds. WHen I pulled them at end of season I thought they were heavier than expected. My vine, which actually ended up growing as two vines on two stakes, was probably less than that. I used the stackable tomato cages from Gardener's Supply. They are unfortunately expensive(like most of their catalog) but it made caging a 6' bush effortless. My neighbor liked how easy it was to harvest and they didn't keep sliding and collapsing down a stake when heavy with fruit. Neither of us do staking well. Plants always slide down and create tight bends. I am considering buying another four this year despite overpriced costs. It seems as if you'd have to sink at least 18" of this slender spike into the ground, leaving 4-1/2' to support the plant. With a single, slender anchor point, and a lot of wind resistance with all the foliage, I can see the stake working loose with every breeze. Also,the plant isn't going to 'naturally' grow within the spiral -- you'll have to twine it around the stake every day or 2. I'd definitely give this one a miss. DiGiTAL ViNYL (no email) Zone 6b/7, Westchester Co, NY, 1 mile off L.I.Sound 2nd year gardener |
Tomato Spirals?
Frogleg wrote:
On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 01:57:16 GMT, "FDR" wrote: Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across a tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long piece of metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way up. The tomato plant grows into the spiral and gives natural support. Does anyone know what a full-grown tomato plant with fruit weighs? I think its gonna vary. MY bush last year was about 6' high and two foot around. I'd say the most tomatoes it had on it at once was about 10-12 lbs plus the weight of the plant itself, which i'd be wild-ass guessing is ?10,15,20? pounds. WHen I pulled them at end of season I thought they were heavier than expected. My vine, which actually ended up growing as two vines on two stakes, was probably less than that. I used the stackable tomato cages from Gardener's Supply. They are unfortunately expensive(like most of their catalog) but it made caging a 6' bush effortless. My neighbor liked how easy it was to harvest and they didn't keep sliding and collapsing down a stake when heavy with fruit. Neither of us do staking well. Plants always slide down and create tight bends. I am considering buying another four this year despite overpriced costs. It seems as if you'd have to sink at least 18" of this slender spike into the ground, leaving 4-1/2' to support the plant. With a single, slender anchor point, and a lot of wind resistance with all the foliage, I can see the stake working loose with every breeze. Also,the plant isn't going to 'naturally' grow within the spiral -- you'll have to twine it around the stake every day or 2. I'd definitely give this one a miss. DiGiTAL ViNYL (no email) Zone 6b/7, Westchester Co, NY, 1 mile off L.I.Sound 2nd year gardener |
Tomato Spirals?
Frogleg wrote:
On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 01:57:16 GMT, "FDR" wrote: Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across a tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long piece of metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way up. The tomato plant grows into the spiral and gives natural support. Does anyone know what a full-grown tomato plant with fruit weighs? I think its gonna vary. MY bush last year was about 6' high and two foot around. I'd say the most tomatoes it had on it at once was about 10-12 lbs plus the weight of the plant itself, which i'd be wild-ass guessing is ?10,15,20? pounds. WHen I pulled them at end of season I thought they were heavier than expected. My vine, which actually ended up growing as two vines on two stakes, was probably less than that. I used the stackable tomato cages from Gardener's Supply. They are unfortunately expensive(like most of their catalog) but it made caging a 6' bush effortless. My neighbor liked how easy it was to harvest and they didn't keep sliding and collapsing down a stake when heavy with fruit. Neither of us do staking well. Plants always slide down and create tight bends. I am considering buying another four this year despite overpriced costs. It seems as if you'd have to sink at least 18" of this slender spike into the ground, leaving 4-1/2' to support the plant. With a single, slender anchor point, and a lot of wind resistance with all the foliage, I can see the stake working loose with every breeze. Also,the plant isn't going to 'naturally' grow within the spiral -- you'll have to twine it around the stake every day or 2. I'd definitely give this one a miss. DiGiTAL ViNYL (no email) Zone 6b/7, Westchester Co, NY, 1 mile off L.I.Sound 2nd year gardener |
Tomato Spirals?
Frogleg wrote:
On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 01:57:16 GMT, "FDR" wrote: Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across a tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long piece of metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way up. The tomato plant grows into the spiral and gives natural support. Does anyone know what a full-grown tomato plant with fruit weighs? I think its gonna vary. MY bush last year was about 6' high and two foot around. I'd say the most tomatoes it had on it at once was about 10-12 lbs plus the weight of the plant itself, which i'd be wild-ass guessing is ?10,15,20? pounds. WHen I pulled them at end of season I thought they were heavier than expected. My vine, which actually ended up growing as two vines on two stakes, was probably less than that. I used the stackable tomato cages from Gardener's Supply. They are unfortunately expensive(like most of their catalog) but it made caging a 6' bush effortless. My neighbor liked how easy it was to harvest and they didn't keep sliding and collapsing down a stake when heavy with fruit. Neither of us do staking well. Plants always slide down and create tight bends. I am considering buying another four this year despite overpriced costs. It seems as if you'd have to sink at least 18" of this slender spike into the ground, leaving 4-1/2' to support the plant. With a single, slender anchor point, and a lot of wind resistance with all the foliage, I can see the stake working loose with every breeze. Also,the plant isn't going to 'naturally' grow within the spiral -- you'll have to twine it around the stake every day or 2. I'd definitely give this one a miss. DiGiTAL ViNYL (no email) Zone 6b/7, Westchester Co, NY, 1 mile off L.I.Sound 2nd year gardener |
Tomato Spirals?
In article KatraMungBean-
, says... A simple fence trellis might be even simpler? That's what I use for beans. It's not exactly fence, but I use garden mesh stretched between two 2"x2"s with another 2"x2" across the top. These are 8' tall and the bottom foot is screwed to the planks that make up my 4'x4' raised beds. Beans, peas, tomatoes, cucumbers, etc.. Works for all of them. -- Where ARE those Iraqi WMDs? |
Tomato Spirals?
In article KatraMungBean-
, says... A simple fence trellis might be even simpler? That's what I use for beans. It's not exactly fence, but I use garden mesh stretched between two 2"x2"s with another 2"x2" across the top. These are 8' tall and the bottom foot is screwed to the planks that make up my 4'x4' raised beds. Beans, peas, tomatoes, cucumbers, etc.. Works for all of them. -- Where ARE those Iraqi WMDs? |
Tomato Spirals?
In article KatraMungBean-
, says... A simple fence trellis might be even simpler? That's what I use for beans. It's not exactly fence, but I use garden mesh stretched between two 2"x2"s with another 2"x2" across the top. These are 8' tall and the bottom foot is screwed to the planks that make up my 4'x4' raised beds. Beans, peas, tomatoes, cucumbers, etc.. Works for all of them. -- Where ARE those Iraqi WMDs? |
Tomato Spirals?
In article KatraMungBean-
, says... A simple fence trellis might be even simpler? That's what I use for beans. It's not exactly fence, but I use garden mesh stretched between two 2"x2"s with another 2"x2" across the top. These are 8' tall and the bottom foot is screwed to the planks that make up my 4'x4' raised beds. Beans, peas, tomatoes, cucumbers, etc.. Works for all of them. -- Where ARE those Iraqi WMDs? |
Tomato Spirals?
In article KatraMungBean-
, says... A simple fence trellis might be even simpler? That's what I use for beans. It's not exactly fence, but I use garden mesh stretched between two 2"x2"s with another 2"x2" across the top. These are 8' tall and the bottom foot is screwed to the planks that make up my 4'x4' raised beds. Beans, peas, tomatoes, cucumbers, etc.. Works for all of them. -- Where ARE those Iraqi WMDs? |
Tomato Spirals?
"DigitalVinyl" wrote in message ... Frogleg wrote: On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 01:57:16 GMT, "FDR" wrote: Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across a tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long piece of metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way up. The tomato plant grows into the spiral and gives natural support. Does anyone know what a full-grown tomato plant with fruit weighs? I think its gonna vary. MY bush last year was about 6' high and two foot around. I'd say the most tomatoes it had on it at once was about 10-12 lbs plus the weight of the plant itself, which i'd be wild-ass guessing is ?10,15,20? pounds. WHen I pulled them at end of season I thought they were heavier than expected. My vine, which actually ended up growing as two vines on two stakes, was probably less than that. I used the stackable tomato cages from Gardener's Supply. They are unfortunately expensive(like most of their catalog) but it made caging a 6' bush effortless. My neighbor liked how easy it was to harvest and they didn't keep sliding and collapsing down a stake when heavy with fruit. Neither of us do staking well. Plants always slide down and create tight bends. I am considering buying another four this year despite overpriced costs. Hi, I like those cages from Gardener's supply too, but I can't see myself paying so much for them. If they were cheaper I'd definitely get them. |
Tomato Spirals?
"DigitalVinyl" wrote in message ... Frogleg wrote: On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 01:57:16 GMT, "FDR" wrote: Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across a tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long piece of metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way up. The tomato plant grows into the spiral and gives natural support. Does anyone know what a full-grown tomato plant with fruit weighs? I think its gonna vary. MY bush last year was about 6' high and two foot around. I'd say the most tomatoes it had on it at once was about 10-12 lbs plus the weight of the plant itself, which i'd be wild-ass guessing is ?10,15,20? pounds. WHen I pulled them at end of season I thought they were heavier than expected. My vine, which actually ended up growing as two vines on two stakes, was probably less than that. I used the stackable tomato cages from Gardener's Supply. They are unfortunately expensive(like most of their catalog) but it made caging a 6' bush effortless. My neighbor liked how easy it was to harvest and they didn't keep sliding and collapsing down a stake when heavy with fruit. Neither of us do staking well. Plants always slide down and create tight bends. I am considering buying another four this year despite overpriced costs. Hi, I like those cages from Gardener's supply too, but I can't see myself paying so much for them. If they were cheaper I'd definitely get them. |
Tomato Spirals?
"FDR" wrote in message ...
Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across a tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long piece of metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way up. The tomato plant grows into the spiral and gives natural support. The ad claims that it is the most popular way to do it in Europe. Has anybody actually tried these? They are $4.50 a piece and seem like a bargain. I just don't know how sturdy they are. I'd like to try staking this year. Just don't know what method to use. It seems to be by the time you spiral a 6' piece of metal it's only going to be about 4' high. Bury part of that in the ground, and it's even less.... or are you saying it's 6' high? Indeterminate tomatoes will grow higher than 6', so you may outgrow this pretty quickly unless it really is 6' high. Two things I use: 1. I have 3/4" electrical conduit (3 8' pieces forming an inverted U) and a net that forms a climbing fence for the tomatoes (and other veggies). This is pretty permanent, and it's very sturdy since the strength is from the top. It supports cantaloupe with no problems. 2. This isn't as good, but it's much easier to construct, cheap, and you can put it up and take it down pretty quickly. All of the hardware stores sell "garden" fencing that's 3, 4, or 6' wide and about 50' long. I cut this into 7-10' sections, curl them into an exaggerated U, and secure it in the ground with a single 4' fencing stake (the green kind with the little hooks that point up on the top and down on the bottom). As long as the stake is secure, the fencing does really well, even in heavy winds. If you make an O instead of a U, it's even more secure, but it's harder to harvest the fruit if it grows in the middle... especially melons. With tomatoes, they have always needed minor assistance when climbing, but I doubt that changes with the structure you choose. One final note... the main disadvantage to both of these structures is that it's a bear to protect the plants in hail storms, etc. But then again, what do you expect when you have 7' high plants? |
Tomato Spirals?
"FDR" wrote in message ...
Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across a tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long piece of metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way up. The tomato plant grows into the spiral and gives natural support. The ad claims that it is the most popular way to do it in Europe. Has anybody actually tried these? They are $4.50 a piece and seem like a bargain. I just don't know how sturdy they are. I'd like to try staking this year. Just don't know what method to use. It seems to be by the time you spiral a 6' piece of metal it's only going to be about 4' high. Bury part of that in the ground, and it's even less.... or are you saying it's 6' high? Indeterminate tomatoes will grow higher than 6', so you may outgrow this pretty quickly unless it really is 6' high. Two things I use: 1. I have 3/4" electrical conduit (3 8' pieces forming an inverted U) and a net that forms a climbing fence for the tomatoes (and other veggies). This is pretty permanent, and it's very sturdy since the strength is from the top. It supports cantaloupe with no problems. 2. This isn't as good, but it's much easier to construct, cheap, and you can put it up and take it down pretty quickly. All of the hardware stores sell "garden" fencing that's 3, 4, or 6' wide and about 50' long. I cut this into 7-10' sections, curl them into an exaggerated U, and secure it in the ground with a single 4' fencing stake (the green kind with the little hooks that point up on the top and down on the bottom). As long as the stake is secure, the fencing does really well, even in heavy winds. If you make an O instead of a U, it's even more secure, but it's harder to harvest the fruit if it grows in the middle... especially melons. With tomatoes, they have always needed minor assistance when climbing, but I doubt that changes with the structure you choose. One final note... the main disadvantage to both of these structures is that it's a bear to protect the plants in hail storms, etc. But then again, what do you expect when you have 7' high plants? |
Tomato Spirals?
"DigitalVinyl" wrote in message ... Frogleg wrote: On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 01:57:16 GMT, "FDR" wrote: Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across a tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long piece of metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way up. The tomato plant grows into the spiral and gives natural support. Does anyone know what a full-grown tomato plant with fruit weighs? I think its gonna vary. MY bush last year was about 6' high and two foot around. I'd say the most tomatoes it had on it at once was about 10-12 lbs plus the weight of the plant itself, which i'd be wild-ass guessing is ?10,15,20? pounds. WHen I pulled them at end of season I thought they were heavier than expected. My vine, which actually ended up growing as two vines on two stakes, was probably less than that. I used the stackable tomato cages from Gardener's Supply. They are unfortunately expensive(like most of their catalog) but it made caging a 6' bush effortless. My neighbor liked how easy it was to harvest and they didn't keep sliding and collapsing down a stake when heavy with fruit. Neither of us do staking well. Plants always slide down and create tight bends. I am considering buying another four this year despite overpriced costs. Hi, I like those cages from Gardener's supply too, but I can't see myself paying so much for them. If they were cheaper I'd definitely get them. |
Tomato Spirals?
In article KatraMungBean-
, says... A simple fence trellis might be even simpler? That's what I use for beans. It's not exactly fence, but I use garden mesh stretched between two 2"x2"s with another 2"x2" across the top. These are 8' tall and the bottom foot is screwed to the planks that make up my 4'x4' raised beds. Beans, peas, tomatoes, cucumbers, etc.. Works for all of them. -- Where ARE those Iraqi WMDs? |
Tomato Spirals?
In article KatraMungBean-
, says... A simple fence trellis might be even simpler? That's what I use for beans. It's not exactly fence, but I use garden mesh stretched between two 2"x2"s with another 2"x2" across the top. These are 8' tall and the bottom foot is screwed to the planks that make up my 4'x4' raised beds. Beans, peas, tomatoes, cucumbers, etc.. Works for all of them. -- Where ARE those Iraqi WMDs? |
Tomato Spirals?
"FDR" wrote in message ...
Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across a tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long piece of metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way up. The tomato plant grows into the spiral and gives natural support. The ad claims that it is the most popular way to do it in Europe. Has anybody actually tried these? They are $4.50 a piece and seem like a bargain. I just don't know how sturdy they are. I'd like to try staking this year. Just don't know what method to use. It seems to be by the time you spiral a 6' piece of metal it's only going to be about 4' high. Bury part of that in the ground, and it's even less.... or are you saying it's 6' high? Indeterminate tomatoes will grow higher than 6', so you may outgrow this pretty quickly unless it really is 6' high. Two things I use: 1. I have 3/4" electrical conduit (3 8' pieces forming an inverted U) and a net that forms a climbing fence for the tomatoes (and other veggies). This is pretty permanent, and it's very sturdy since the strength is from the top. It supports cantaloupe with no problems. 2. This isn't as good, but it's much easier to construct, cheap, and you can put it up and take it down pretty quickly. All of the hardware stores sell "garden" fencing that's 3, 4, or 6' wide and about 50' long. I cut this into 7-10' sections, curl them into an exaggerated U, and secure it in the ground with a single 4' fencing stake (the green kind with the little hooks that point up on the top and down on the bottom). As long as the stake is secure, the fencing does really well, even in heavy winds. If you make an O instead of a U, it's even more secure, but it's harder to harvest the fruit if it grows in the middle... especially melons. With tomatoes, they have always needed minor assistance when climbing, but I doubt that changes with the structure you choose. One final note... the main disadvantage to both of these structures is that it's a bear to protect the plants in hail storms, etc. But then again, what do you expect when you have 7' high plants? |
Tomato Spirals?
"FDR" wrote in message ...
Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across a tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long piece of metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way up. The tomato plant grows into the spiral and gives natural support. The ad claims that it is the most popular way to do it in Europe. Has anybody actually tried these? They are $4.50 a piece and seem like a bargain. I just don't know how sturdy they are. I'd like to try staking this year. Just don't know what method to use. It seems to be by the time you spiral a 6' piece of metal it's only going to be about 4' high. Bury part of that in the ground, and it's even less.... or are you saying it's 6' high? Indeterminate tomatoes will grow higher than 6', so you may outgrow this pretty quickly unless it really is 6' high. Two things I use: 1. I have 3/4" electrical conduit (3 8' pieces forming an inverted U) and a net that forms a climbing fence for the tomatoes (and other veggies). This is pretty permanent, and it's very sturdy since the strength is from the top. It supports cantaloupe with no problems. 2. This isn't as good, but it's much easier to construct, cheap, and you can put it up and take it down pretty quickly. All of the hardware stores sell "garden" fencing that's 3, 4, or 6' wide and about 50' long. I cut this into 7-10' sections, curl them into an exaggerated U, and secure it in the ground with a single 4' fencing stake (the green kind with the little hooks that point up on the top and down on the bottom). As long as the stake is secure, the fencing does really well, even in heavy winds. If you make an O instead of a U, it's even more secure, but it's harder to harvest the fruit if it grows in the middle... especially melons. With tomatoes, they have always needed minor assistance when climbing, but I doubt that changes with the structure you choose. One final note... the main disadvantage to both of these structures is that it's a bear to protect the plants in hail storms, etc. But then again, what do you expect when you have 7' high plants? |
Tomato Spirals?
On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 18:53:10 GMT, "FDR"
wrote: Frogleg wrote: On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 01:57:16 GMT, "FDR" wrote Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across a tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long piece of metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way up. I like those cages from Gardener's supply too, but I can't see myself paying so much for them. If they were cheaper I'd definitely get them. Go somewhere like Home Depot and get a roll of 6" mesh concrete reinforcing wire. Ask about what kind of tool you need to cut the wire. Here's a rough illustration and directions: http://www.extension.umn.edu/project...37trellis.html This page suggests tying the cage to a stake, but if you snip off the bottom wire, you'll have a 6" multi-spike perimeter to put into the ground. These are sturdy, last for years and years, and do a good job of supporting the tomatoes. |
Tomato Spirals?
On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 18:53:10 GMT, "FDR"
wrote: Frogleg wrote: On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 01:57:16 GMT, "FDR" wrote Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across a tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long piece of metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way up. I like those cages from Gardener's supply too, but I can't see myself paying so much for them. If they were cheaper I'd definitely get them. Go somewhere like Home Depot and get a roll of 6" mesh concrete reinforcing wire. Ask about what kind of tool you need to cut the wire. Here's a rough illustration and directions: http://www.extension.umn.edu/project...37trellis.html This page suggests tying the cage to a stake, but if you snip off the bottom wire, you'll have a 6" multi-spike perimeter to put into the ground. These are sturdy, last for years and years, and do a good job of supporting the tomatoes. |
Tomato Spirals?
On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 18:53:10 GMT, "FDR"
wrote: Frogleg wrote: On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 01:57:16 GMT, "FDR" wrote Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across a tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long piece of metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way up. I like those cages from Gardener's supply too, but I can't see myself paying so much for them. If they were cheaper I'd definitely get them. Go somewhere like Home Depot and get a roll of 6" mesh concrete reinforcing wire. Ask about what kind of tool you need to cut the wire. Here's a rough illustration and directions: http://www.extension.umn.edu/project...37trellis.html This page suggests tying the cage to a stake, but if you snip off the bottom wire, you'll have a 6" multi-spike perimeter to put into the ground. These are sturdy, last for years and years, and do a good job of supporting the tomatoes. |
Tomato Spirals?
"Frogleg" wrote in message ... On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 18:53:10 GMT, "FDR" wrote: Frogleg wrote: On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 01:57:16 GMT, "FDR" wrote Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across a tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long piece of metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way up. I like those cages from Gardener's supply too, but I can't see myself paying so much for them. If they were cheaper I'd definitely get them. Go somewhere like Home Depot and get a roll of 6" mesh concrete reinforcing wire. Ask about what kind of tool you need to cut the wire. Here's a rough illustration and directions: http://www.extension.umn.edu/project...37trellis.html This page suggests tying the cage to a stake, but if you snip off the bottom wire, you'll have a 6" multi-spike perimeter to put into the ground. These are sturdy, last for years and years, and do a good job of supporting the tomatoes. Though they are certainly sturdy, I don't think they'd be for me since my wife wouldn't appreciate the aesthetics or lack of easy storage capability. |
Tomato Spirals?
"Frogleg" wrote in message ... On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 18:53:10 GMT, "FDR" wrote: Frogleg wrote: On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 01:57:16 GMT, "FDR" wrote Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across a tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long piece of metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way up. I like those cages from Gardener's supply too, but I can't see myself paying so much for them. If they were cheaper I'd definitely get them. Go somewhere like Home Depot and get a roll of 6" mesh concrete reinforcing wire. Ask about what kind of tool you need to cut the wire. Here's a rough illustration and directions: http://www.extension.umn.edu/project...37trellis.html This page suggests tying the cage to a stake, but if you snip off the bottom wire, you'll have a 6" multi-spike perimeter to put into the ground. These are sturdy, last for years and years, and do a good job of supporting the tomatoes. Though they are certainly sturdy, I don't think they'd be for me since my wife wouldn't appreciate the aesthetics or lack of easy storage capability. |
Tomato Spirals?
"Frogleg" wrote in message ... On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 18:53:10 GMT, "FDR" wrote: Frogleg wrote: On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 01:57:16 GMT, "FDR" wrote Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across a tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long piece of metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way up. I like those cages from Gardener's supply too, but I can't see myself paying so much for them. If they were cheaper I'd definitely get them. Go somewhere like Home Depot and get a roll of 6" mesh concrete reinforcing wire. Ask about what kind of tool you need to cut the wire. Here's a rough illustration and directions: http://www.extension.umn.edu/project...37trellis.html This page suggests tying the cage to a stake, but if you snip off the bottom wire, you'll have a 6" multi-spike perimeter to put into the ground. These are sturdy, last for years and years, and do a good job of supporting the tomatoes. Though they are certainly sturdy, I don't think they'd be for me since my wife wouldn't appreciate the aesthetics or lack of easy storage capability. |
Tomato Spirals?
Loki wrote:
I'd like to try staking this year. Just don't know what method to use. I read one just a week ago. They put stakes in at each end (10feet) and planted the tomatoes in between. then as they grew they wove twine from one stake to the other, and adding twine as the toms grew taller. I didn't see a picture, but they must use 2 twine each time to hold the plant. It said they grew much better that when individually staked. This is how I do it: http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/View...766&p=60247499 http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/View...766&p=60247632 I plant peas on the outside, the tomatoes on the inside. The tomatoes reach the trellis just about the time the peas are done. The stakes are buried a good two feet, and the whole thing has lasted 5 years so far. -- Julie |
Tomato Spirals?
Loki wrote:
I'd like to try staking this year. Just don't know what method to use. I read one just a week ago. They put stakes in at each end (10feet) and planted the tomatoes in between. then as they grew they wove twine from one stake to the other, and adding twine as the toms grew taller. I didn't see a picture, but they must use 2 twine each time to hold the plant. It said they grew much better that when individually staked. This is how I do it: http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/View...766&p=60247499 http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/View...766&p=60247632 I plant peas on the outside, the tomatoes on the inside. The tomatoes reach the trellis just about the time the peas are done. The stakes are buried a good two feet, and the whole thing has lasted 5 years so far. -- Julie |
Tomato Spirals?
Loki wrote:
I'd like to try staking this year. Just don't know what method to use. I read one just a week ago. They put stakes in at each end (10feet) and planted the tomatoes in between. then as they grew they wove twine from one stake to the other, and adding twine as the toms grew taller. I didn't see a picture, but they must use 2 twine each time to hold the plant. It said they grew much better that when individually staked. This is how I do it: http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/View...766&p=60247499 http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/View...766&p=60247632 I plant peas on the outside, the tomatoes on the inside. The tomatoes reach the trellis just about the time the peas are done. The stakes are buried a good two feet, and the whole thing has lasted 5 years so far. -- Julie |
Tomato Spirals?
Loki wrote:
I'd like to try staking this year. Just don't know what method to use. I read one just a week ago. They put stakes in at each end (10feet) and planted the tomatoes in between. then as they grew they wove twine from one stake to the other, and adding twine as the toms grew taller. I didn't see a picture, but they must use 2 twine each time to hold the plant. It said they grew much better that when individually staked. This is how I do it: http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/View...766&p=60247499 http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/View...766&p=60247632 I plant peas on the outside, the tomatoes on the inside. The tomatoes reach the trellis just about the time the peas are done. The stakes are buried a good two feet, and the whole thing has lasted 5 years so far. -- Julie |
Tomato Spirals?
On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 23:11:24 GMT, "FDR"
wrote: "Frogleg" wrote in message .. . On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 18:53:10 GMT, "FDR" wrote: Frogleg wrote: On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 01:57:16 GMT, "FDR" wrote Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across a tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long piece of metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way up. I like those cages from Gardener's supply too, but I can't see myself paying so much for them. If they were cheaper I'd definitely get them. Go somewhere like Home Depot and get a roll of 6" mesh concrete reinforcing wire. Ask about what kind of tool you need to cut the wire. Here's a rough illustration and directions: http://www.extension.umn.edu/project...37trellis.html This page suggests tying the cage to a stake, but if you snip off the bottom wire, you'll have a 6" multi-spike perimeter to put into the ground. These are sturdy, last for years and years, and do a good job of supporting the tomatoes. Though they are certainly sturdy, I don't think they'd be for me since my wife wouldn't appreciate the aesthetics or lack of easy storage capability. My dad used to just plant tomatoes in a row, and then make a tomato support system that looked like rail fences. He'd have uprights to pound into the ground, and use whatever scrap lumber he had around to make rails 2 or 3 of them several inches apart so you can reach between them to pick the fruit. If you are into aesthetics of unpainted scrap wood, paint it, you'll never know it's scrap. If you can't find scrap or don't want to, then buy wood, paint it white just like those white rail fences they show around the fields in Kentucky where they raise horses. Or buy some of that plastic stuff that can be drilled like wood, already the color you want it. They're easy to make anyone can lay pieces of wood across upright stakes, and pound a few nails or put a few screws through it into the uprights. you can put stabilizers across the gap between the rails on either side of the tomato plants, You can nail or screw them in, or notch toward the ends so they can just slip over the tops of the rails on either side and use one between every .. or every other tomato plant to keep the rails stable. Cross pieces should be used at least at each end. The longer the row the greater the need for stabilizers. I'd just make them in convenient lengths, 8' 10' whatever length lumber you have or want to use. All depends on how many plants you plant. I used to end up with around 40 plants each year. They're easy to store in that they are flat so each side can be laid one against the other and lean them against a shed wall, or inside the shed if you have a big one, or along side the wall of a garage or suspended overhead. You can alter things to suit your needs. ;-) Janice |
Tomato Spirals?
On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 23:11:24 GMT, "FDR"
wrote: "Frogleg" wrote in message .. . On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 18:53:10 GMT, "FDR" wrote: Frogleg wrote: On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 01:57:16 GMT, "FDR" wrote Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across a tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long piece of metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way up. I like those cages from Gardener's supply too, but I can't see myself paying so much for them. If they were cheaper I'd definitely get them. Go somewhere like Home Depot and get a roll of 6" mesh concrete reinforcing wire. Ask about what kind of tool you need to cut the wire. Here's a rough illustration and directions: http://www.extension.umn.edu/project...37trellis.html This page suggests tying the cage to a stake, but if you snip off the bottom wire, you'll have a 6" multi-spike perimeter to put into the ground. These are sturdy, last for years and years, and do a good job of supporting the tomatoes. Though they are certainly sturdy, I don't think they'd be for me since my wife wouldn't appreciate the aesthetics or lack of easy storage capability. My dad used to just plant tomatoes in a row, and then make a tomato support system that looked like rail fences. He'd have uprights to pound into the ground, and use whatever scrap lumber he had around to make rails 2 or 3 of them several inches apart so you can reach between them to pick the fruit. If you are into aesthetics of unpainted scrap wood, paint it, you'll never know it's scrap. If you can't find scrap or don't want to, then buy wood, paint it white just like those white rail fences they show around the fields in Kentucky where they raise horses. Or buy some of that plastic stuff that can be drilled like wood, already the color you want it. They're easy to make anyone can lay pieces of wood across upright stakes, and pound a few nails or put a few screws through it into the uprights. you can put stabilizers across the gap between the rails on either side of the tomato plants, You can nail or screw them in, or notch toward the ends so they can just slip over the tops of the rails on either side and use one between every .. or every other tomato plant to keep the rails stable. Cross pieces should be used at least at each end. The longer the row the greater the need for stabilizers. I'd just make them in convenient lengths, 8' 10' whatever length lumber you have or want to use. All depends on how many plants you plant. I used to end up with around 40 plants each year. They're easy to store in that they are flat so each side can be laid one against the other and lean them against a shed wall, or inside the shed if you have a big one, or along side the wall of a garage or suspended overhead. You can alter things to suit your needs. ;-) Janice |
Tomato Spirals?
On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 23:11:24 GMT, "FDR"
wrote: "Frogleg" wrote in message .. . On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 18:53:10 GMT, "FDR" wrote: Frogleg wrote: On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 01:57:16 GMT, "FDR" wrote Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across a tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long piece of metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way up. I like those cages from Gardener's supply too, but I can't see myself paying so much for them. If they were cheaper I'd definitely get them. Go somewhere like Home Depot and get a roll of 6" mesh concrete reinforcing wire. Ask about what kind of tool you need to cut the wire. Here's a rough illustration and directions: http://www.extension.umn.edu/project...37trellis.html This page suggests tying the cage to a stake, but if you snip off the bottom wire, you'll have a 6" multi-spike perimeter to put into the ground. These are sturdy, last for years and years, and do a good job of supporting the tomatoes. Though they are certainly sturdy, I don't think they'd be for me since my wife wouldn't appreciate the aesthetics or lack of easy storage capability. My dad used to just plant tomatoes in a row, and then make a tomato support system that looked like rail fences. He'd have uprights to pound into the ground, and use whatever scrap lumber he had around to make rails 2 or 3 of them several inches apart so you can reach between them to pick the fruit. If you are into aesthetics of unpainted scrap wood, paint it, you'll never know it's scrap. If you can't find scrap or don't want to, then buy wood, paint it white just like those white rail fences they show around the fields in Kentucky where they raise horses. Or buy some of that plastic stuff that can be drilled like wood, already the color you want it. They're easy to make anyone can lay pieces of wood across upright stakes, and pound a few nails or put a few screws through it into the uprights. you can put stabilizers across the gap between the rails on either side of the tomato plants, You can nail or screw them in, or notch toward the ends so they can just slip over the tops of the rails on either side and use one between every .. or every other tomato plant to keep the rails stable. Cross pieces should be used at least at each end. The longer the row the greater the need for stabilizers. I'd just make them in convenient lengths, 8' 10' whatever length lumber you have or want to use. All depends on how many plants you plant. I used to end up with around 40 plants each year. They're easy to store in that they are flat so each side can be laid one against the other and lean them against a shed wall, or inside the shed if you have a big one, or along side the wall of a garage or suspended overhead. You can alter things to suit your needs. ;-) Janice |
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