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#16
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Coffee Grounds--TOO MUCH??? nearly short story
I'd like to do nothing as you say... but I'm the same kind who'll tuck my
tomatoes back into their cages 8x per day! I was hoping to get something out of this crop this year. Some of the 2ft tall plants are now starting to tassel so it doesn't look good, not out of the whorl yet but still visibly protruding. I've even shut off the drip in that section to see if it was too wet & if the stickiness/muckiness dries up abit. "Pat Kiewicz" wrote in message ... news.verizon.net said: I added bonemeal too. You think I should turn the drip off to that section for a few days & see if everything dries out, and just foliar feed when necessary for a while, trying not to saturate the bed? Maybe just rely on rain for a week or two? Sometimes doing nothing is the wisest course. 8^) -- Pat in Plymouth MI ('someplace.net' is comcast) Any technology distinguishable from magic is insufficiently advanced. (attributed to Don Marti) |
#17
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Coffee Grounds--TOO MUCH??? nearly short story
I'd like to do nothing as you say... but I'm the same kind who'll tuck my
tomatoes back into their cages 8x per day! I was hoping to get something out of this crop this year. Some of the 2ft tall plants are now starting to tassel so it doesn't look good, not out of the whorl yet but still visibly protruding. I've even shut off the drip in that section to see if it was too wet & if the stickiness/muckiness dries up abit. "Pat Kiewicz" wrote in message ... news.verizon.net said: I added bonemeal too. You think I should turn the drip off to that section for a few days & see if everything dries out, and just foliar feed when necessary for a while, trying not to saturate the bed? Maybe just rely on rain for a week or two? Sometimes doing nothing is the wisest course. 8^) -- Pat in Plymouth MI ('someplace.net' is comcast) Any technology distinguishable from magic is insufficiently advanced. (attributed to Don Marti) |
#18
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Coffee Grounds--TOO MUCH??? nearly short story
Thanks Pat & simy. So far here's what I did:
I'm not really a granular guy so shot the bed with some calcium nitrate and mag sulfate, but first scattered some pelletized lime (only type I had.) I also sprayed both Neptune's Harvest (2-4-1) & Maxicrop seaweed powder (1-0-4) at 2-3x rate. I may be able to score some wood ash from GF's fire pit at her summer trailer but can't guarantee what else got burned there too. The drip system uses Plantex 15-15-18 w/Micros (soilless mix formula.) It's on the trickle setting, I think 1000:1 (water to mixed fert) and runs anytime the drip is on (usually around 30 min per day except rainy days.) The bed is pretty much saturated from the rains the last week or two plus the flooding I did--the driveway started getting wet after 15-20 minutes of the drip being on. I also scattered some 14-14-14 Osmocote, though it's pretty tough to scratch in now. Maybe put some fresh compost over everything again? Or try spraying some high P water soluble like Miracle-Gro or Bloom Booster? I also have some muriate of potash I can disolve & spray, and may have some triple-super phosphate left but don't want to overdo things. Plus I'm noticing we are going in 2 different directions--soluble vs OG. I don't know how much OG can help this year and probably can add leaves & refresh all or 4-6" of the compost in the Fall, or next year, but what's best for an '04 crop? I always thought bone meal was slow acting. Mark "Pat Kiewicz" wrote in message ... simy1 said: I till in nothing and make sure to always balance acid things (wood chips and coffee) with some wood ash, which has a pH of 10.4 and is 50% Ca and about 10% Mg (I have a wood stove and I store the ash in my garage for spring and summer use). That does not yet balance everything (where is the P?), but it is a good start. wood ash will always be better than lime because it has a better nutrient profile (besides Ca and Mg, it is 3% P and 8% K for example) and acts very fast. Probably at this stage of the game (need a fast acting amendment to try and get a crop out of these things), if I were to do things blindly, a mixture of wood ash and bone meal would get those plants kick-started. In fact, given a pH of 6.2, one could add 0.03 lb per sqft and the pH would not go above 6.7. In the long run, though, I think Mark ought to mineralize that soil -- rock phosphate, (probably dolomitic) limestone, and greensand or some other potash-rich rock dust -- 'bankable' material. Even some decently mineralized 'fill dirt' might work. (I've seen that happen by accident in my own yard.) -- Pat in Plymouth MI ('someplace.net' is comcast) Any technology distinguishable from magic is insufficiently advanced. (attributed to Don Marti) |
#19
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Coffee Grounds--TOO MUCH??? nearly short story
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#20
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Coffee Grounds--TOO MUCH??? nearly short story
Add Espoma bonemeal to the list; I just added about 2-3 pounds (total) over
the 2 beds (at least a pound each bed) and watered it in. It's nearly impossible for me to scratch anything in because the corn is closely planted plus the driplines plus the summer lettuce mix, etc. The best I can do is run a Garden Weasel with only 1 tine and even that's for short distances before running into some plant. Also, the nursery didn't have any greensand, and don't think they even knew what it was. And it's one of the busiest ones in the area. So will have to check the fire pit but I'd think much of the nutrients got leeched away with the rain we've been having... Mark "Pat Kiewicz" wrote in message ... simy1 said: I till in nothing and make sure to always balance acid things (wood chips and coffee) with some wood ash, which has a pH of 10.4 and is 50% Ca and about 10% Mg (I have a wood stove and I store the ash in my garage for spring and summer use). That does not yet balance everything (where is the P?), but it is a good start. wood ash will always be better than lime because it has a better nutrient profile (besides Ca and Mg, it is 3% P and 8% K for example) and acts very fast. Probably at this stage of the game (need a fast acting amendment to try and get a crop out of these things), if I were to do things blindly, a mixture of wood ash and bone meal would get those plants kick-started. In fact, given a pH of 6.2, one could add 0.03 lb per sqft and the pH would not go above 6.7. In the long run, though, I think Mark ought to mineralize that soil -- rock phosphate, (probably dolomitic) limestone, and greensand or some other potash-rich rock dust -- 'bankable' material. Even some decently mineralized 'fill dirt' might work. (I've seen that happen by accident in my own yard.) -- Pat in Plymouth MI ('someplace.net' is comcast) Any technology distinguishable from magic is insufficiently advanced. (attributed to Don Marti) |
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