I have a market for tomatoes and peppers, and perhaps anything else
that I can grow. My garden spot measures about 75'x125'. It is very
fertile, and I just had it disked and it is now ready to plant. I don't
have a lot of time or money, have only a small sized roto-tiller and
have no one to help me. What would be the cheapest and least labor
intensive way that I can achieve my goals of producing produce?

I thought about using mulch, but really don't have access to enough of
it. Big round hay bales are about $25.00 a piece in this area, but if I
used hay or straw I am afraid that weed and grass seeds will sprout. I
thought about using a pre-emergence herbicide, but would like to keep
it organic. I could use plastic, I guess. I don't know really what to
do. Any advice will be taken with gratitude.

Sincerely,
Rick Hurd.

Rick's Indexing

If you choose to buy one of those big round bales be very careful. We are
organic, and bought one for mulch to find it was laced heavily with some
sort of herbicide. I would suggest amending your soil with compost, lava
sand, (if available) a hefty amount of dried molasses, and some good quality
organic fertilizer. That will put you much farther ahead toward producing
good crops than mulch. Now having said that, the mulch is certainly good
for moisture retention, and a good thick layer of mulch can reduce
summertime soil temps dramatically. What zone are you in?
Thomas
wrote in message
oups.com...
I have a market for tomatoes and peppers, and perhaps anything else
that I can grow. My garden spot measures about 75'x125'. It is very
fertile, and I just had it disked and it is now ready to plant. I don't
have a lot of time or money, have only a small sized roto-tiller and
have no one to help me. What would be the cheapest and least labor
intensive way that I can achieve my goals of producing produce?

I thought about using mulch, but really don't have access to enough of
it. Big round hay bales are about $25.00 a piece in this area, but if I
used hay or straw I am afraid that weed and grass seeds will sprout. I
thought about using a pre-emergence herbicide, but would like to keep
it organic. I could use plastic, I guess. I don't know really what to
do. Any advice will be taken with gratitude.

Sincerely,
Rick Hurd.

Rick's Indexing

Rick:

Just ask the farmers what they spray. Straw will most likely have less,
being a byproduct rather than the primary crop as in hay. Seed content
is fairly high in the straw we get in NE GA. But if any does sprout it
dies in the heat.

Good Luck!

John!

wrote:
Thanks for all the advice.
can't get wood chips I thought I might try to buy straw from local
farmers for ground cover, and use cattle panels in rows for the
tomatoes to climb on.
Sincerely,
Rick Hurd.

I use 2 foot wide carpet strips from remenents, after the growing season
they can be rolled up and used next year. Keeps the moisture in and the
weeds out, without herbicides, and no hay or straw spores to grow from
within.

On 3/18/05 8:46 AM, in article
,
" wrote:

I have a market for tomatoes and peppers, and perhaps anything else
that I can grow. My garden spot measures about 75'x125'. It is very
fertile, and I just had it disked and it is now ready to plant. I don't
have a lot of time or money, have only a small sized roto-tiller and
have no one to help me. What would be the cheapest and least labor
intensive way that I can achieve my goals of producing produce?

I thought about using mulch, but really don't have access to enough of
it. Big round hay bales are about $25.00 a piece in this area, but if I
used hay or straw I am afraid that weed and grass seeds will sprout. I
thought about using a pre-emergence herbicide, but would like to keep
it organic. I could use plastic, I guess. I don't know really what to
do. Any advice will be taken with gratitude.

Sincerely,
Rick Hurd.

Rick's Indexing


How wide a cut will your roto tiller make? Do you have a good water supply?
Do you have a lawn mower? Do you have or could you afford to buy a drip line
watering system? I have an idea but whether it will work could depend upon
your answers to my questions. Cheers,
Gary

My roto-tiller makes about a 12" wide cut.

I do have a good water supply.

I do have a lawn mower.

Perhaps I could afford to buy a drip line watering system.

Here in Missouri, I have seldom watered anything, especially if using
mulch.

Thank you for the replies.

Sincerely,
Rick Hurd.

Rick's Indexing
16984 State HWY UU
Jameson, Mo 64647

On 3/23/05 1:05 PM, in article
,
" wrote:

My roto-tiller makes about a 12" wide cut.

I do have a good water supply.

I do have a lawn mower.

Perhaps I could afford to buy a drip line watering system.

Here in Missouri, I have seldom watered anything, especially if using
mulch.

Thank you for the replies.

Sincerely,
Rick Hurd.

Rick's Indexing
16984 State HWY UU
Jameson, Mo 64647


Use heavy rolled brown paper. Lay down your drip line on the row and
roll out the paper along the row. Weigh it down with soil along all the
edges (if you don't, wind will lift it and send it a flying). Cut holes big
enough to plant your plants using an exacto knife on dry paper...if it is
wet it will tear.
As the paper gets weathered it will shrink so it may be best to not
plant anything until the paper has done that. (If you cut the paper and
plant right away, when the paper shrinks your plants will have
disappeared...the holes have moved).
Use your lawn mower to cut the grass etc. between your rows.
There will be some growth of weeds coming up through the holes you have
cut...do not pull them out. Just cut them off as close to the paper as
possible. As your plants grow they will shade the hole and inhibit weed
growth. We hope they grow fast enough!
The paper will break down over time but can be composted when it gets
too beaten up.
That's the general idea.
Gary