I've got a fairly bad case of BGA in my fairly new 10 week old 4' planted
tank and was wondering if anyone has used 'Kent Poly-Ox, cyanobacteria
control' which is supposed to kill blue green cyanobacteria. Maracyn is
unavailable in Australia for some medical/customs reason. I was planning on
removing my prized SAE's and a couple of otos which are the only
inhabitants. It says organic material oxidiser. Does this mean it'll also
oxidise my plants. Thanks.
Water parameters
moderately planted
20% weekly water changes
Ph 7.2
KH 6dKh
GH 150ppm
17ppm Co2
PMDD added dry each week
1/6th tsp iron and trace
3/4 tsp potassium sulphate
Phosphates: .3ppm
Nitrates: ~8ppm
Iron .6ppm
4x36W tubes 2x6000, 1x5000, 1x4000
Substrate heating and flourite with 1/2 fern spike 8:1.7:4, under 3 of my
fairly decent sized swords

Yes, fish are fine.
I sell "BGA cure all" in a bottle. It has instructions on how to do a
blackout all for 9.99$ :-)
Works better and last longer than anything else on the market
That's an old post but you can check boards and other postings.

It also works for Rhizoclonium, Cladophora, Green water, green dust
etc
It does NOT work well on BBA and Staghorn IMO but everything else it
does.
3 days for BGA 4-6 for the others.

I just did a test for the above species in my own tanks with good
healthy algae and it was 100% effective at control/eradication.

Since the method is "Free" it will be tough getting the LFS and chains
to sell my Advice in a bottle But it's fast, environmentally
friendly, available world wide, free shipping, and there's always a
supply of it.

Regards,
Tom Barr



"Tasslehoff" wrote in message . au...
Thanks Tom I found a couple of links on google after searching for BGA Tom
Barr yay
http://fins.actwin.com/aquatic-plant.../msg00251.html
and proceeded to do a fairly thorough clean of my plants and doing the
water change. I later found your more comprehensive discussion
http://www.gardenbanter.co.uk/showth...ue+green+algae
I misinterpreted point 1 and 2 in the original discussion and added all the
traces and NPK before the blackout and realised I was only supposed to add N
and K before the blackout. Should I start the blackout tomorrow after doing
another water change to remove all the traces/iron or just see how the
blackout pans out with all the nutrients in the water? Thanks, will my 3
SAE's and 2 otos be okay for 3 days with no light/food.


" wrote in message
om...
All you need to do is a blackout for 3 days.
See old post on BGA by me.

Regards
Tom Barr


"Tasslehoff" wrote in message
. au...
I've got a fairly bad case of BGA in my fairly new 10 week old 4'
planted
tank and was wondering if anyone has used 'Kent Poly-Ox, cyanobacteria
control' which is supposed to kill blue green cyanobacteria. Maracyn is
unavailable in Australia for some medical/customs reason. I was
planning on
removing my prized SAE's and a couple of otos which are the only
inhabitants. It says organic material oxidiser. Does this mean it'll
also
oxidise my plants. Thanks.
Water parameters
moderately planted
20% weekly water changes
Ph 7.2
KH 6dKh
GH 150ppm
17ppm Co2
PMDD added dry each week
1/6th tsp iron and trace
3/4 tsp potassium sulphate
Phosphates: .3ppm
Nitrates: ~8ppm
Iron .6ppm
4x36W tubes 2x6000, 1x5000, 1x4000
Substrate heating and flourite with 1/2 fern spike 8:1.7:4, under 3 of
my
fairly decent sized swords

Wow thanks everyone, three days later there's no trace of BGA after 3 days
blackout and now a full days lighting yay. I did notice my phosphates
seemed to skyrocket from .4 to 1ppm on my waterchange. Is this the BGA
decomposing or could something be out of whack?

"Tasslehoff" wrote in message
u...
Thanks Tom I found a couple of links on google after searching for BGA Tom
Barr yay
http://fins.actwin.com/aquatic-plant.../msg00251.html
and proceeded to do a fairly thorough clean of my plants and doing the
water change. I later found your more comprehensive discussion

http://www.gardenbanter.co.uk/showth...ue+green+algae
I misinterpreted point 1 and 2 in the original discussion and added all
the
traces and NPK before the blackout and realised I was only supposed to add
N
and K before the blackout. Should I start the blackout tomorrow after
doing
another water change to remove all the traces/iron or just see how the
blackout pans out with all the nutrients in the water? Thanks, will my 3
SAE's and 2 otos be okay for 3 days with no light/food.


" wrote in message
om...
All you need to do is a blackout for 3 days.
See old post on BGA by me.

Regards
Tom Barr


"Tasslehoff" wrote in message
. au...
I've got a fairly bad case of BGA in my fairly new 10 week old 4'
planted
tank and was wondering if anyone has used 'Kent Poly-Ox, cyanobacteria
control' which is supposed to kill blue green cyanobacteria. Maracyn
is
unavailable in Australia for some medical/customs reason. I was
planning on
removing my prized SAE's and a couple of otos which are the only
inhabitants. It says organic material oxidiser. Does this mean it'll
also
oxidise my plants. Thanks.
Water parameters
moderately planted
20% weekly water changes
Ph 7.2
KH 6dKh
GH 150ppm
17ppm Co2
PMDD added dry each week
1/6th tsp iron and trace
3/4 tsp potassium sulphate
Phosphates: .3ppm
Nitrates: ~8ppm
Iron .6ppm
4x36W tubes 2x6000, 1x5000, 1x4000
Substrate heating and flourite with 1/2 fern spike 8:1.7:4, under 3 of
my
fairly decent sized swords

"Tasslehoff" wrote in message . au...
Wow thanks everyone, three days later there's no trace of BGA after 3 days
blackout and now a full days lighting yay. I did notice my phosphates
seemed to skyrocket from .4 to 1ppm on my waterchange. Is this the BGA
decomposing or could something be out of whack?

Could be the tap water has PO4, could be the test kit, could be some
decomposed material but the PO4 should have gone down after the water
change, if not, you have PO4 in thre tap which is good. No need to add
PO4 then.

Regards,
Tom Barr

" wrote in message
om...
"Tasslehoff" wrote in message
. au...
Wow thanks everyone, three days later there's no trace of BGA after
3 days
blackout and now a full days lighting yay. I did notice my
phosphates
seemed to skyrocket from .4 to 1ppm on my waterchange. Is this the
BGA
decomposing or could something be out of whack?

Could be the tap water has PO4, could be the test kit, could be some
decomposed material but the PO4 should have gone down after the water
change, if not, you have PO4 in thre tap which is good. No need to add
PO4 then.

Regards,
Tom Barr

I get all the PO4 I need (even more) from the fish food. Flakes and
Pellets........A constant and steady source...

" wrote in message
om...
"Tasslehoff" wrote in message
. au...
Wow thanks everyone, three days later there's no trace of BGA after
3 days
blackout and now a full days lighting yay. I did notice my
phosphates
seemed to skyrocket from .4 to 1ppm on my waterchange. Is this the
BGA
decomposing or could something be out of whack?

Could be the tap water has PO4, could be the test kit, could be some
decomposed material but the PO4 should have gone down after the water
change, if not, you have PO4 in thre tap which is good. No need to add
PO4 then.

Regards,
Tom Barr

I get all the PO4 I need (even more) from the fish food. Flakes and
Pellets........A constant and steady source...

" wrote in message
om...
"Tasslehoff" wrote in message
. au...
Wow thanks everyone, three days later there's no trace of BGA after
3 days
blackout and now a full days lighting yay. I did notice my
phosphates
seemed to skyrocket from .4 to 1ppm on my waterchange. Is this the
BGA
decomposing or could something be out of whack?

Could be the tap water has PO4, could be the test kit, could be some
decomposed material but the PO4 should have gone down after the water
change, if not, you have PO4 in thre tap which is good. No need to add
PO4 then.

Regards,
Tom Barr

I get all the PO4 I need (even more) from the fish food. Flakes and
Pellets........A constant and steady source...