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Old 11-02-2004, 04:26 AM
James
 
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Default lighting & tap water filter questions

hello all,

I have a 46-gallon bow front freshwater aquarium and have a few questions about lighting and replacing water using a tap water filter.



Fist, I seem to have a problem growing certain plants, especially ones in the foreground. I have a coralife 192-watt compact fluorescent light, 6700k. Which should be sufficient for any high light plant, right? I purchased the stands for the light housing but I'm not sure it would help to offset the light 2" off the top or not? The tank is bowed, so maybe that is why I have a problem growing plants in the foreground. I have two one-gallon glass jugs for DIY Co2 as well, with the tubing routing through the intake of my canister filter. One of the plants I am talking about is; Micro sword-lilaeopsis (looks like grass) I have standard gravel and some laterite mixed in as well. The grass just seems to grow algae and die off. My water parameters are, PH 6.5, ammonia is good, nitrite is good, and water hardness is low.



Second, the way I filter my water is with a "tap water filter" by aquarium pharmaceuticals. I was wondering if there was a cheaper alternative to filter tap water other than purchasing a replacement filter every month. I have been looking at the RO filters, like the deluxe maxxima 35 HI-S by Kent Marine. Would something like that save money later on down the road? Or should I keep on buying the tap water filter replacements? My tap water out of the faucet is very hard and high in PH.



Any help is appreciated!!!



Thanks,

James


--
JAMES BISHOP
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Old 11-02-2004, 04:10 PM
RedForeman ©®
 
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Default lighting & tap water filter questions

"James" wrote in message
hello all,

I have a 46-gallon bow front freshwater aquarium and have a few questions
about lighting and replacing water using a tap water filter.

Fist, I seem to have a problem growing certain plants, especially ones in
the foreground. I have a coralife 192-watt compact fluorescent light, 6700k.
Which should be sufficient for any high light plant, right? I purchased the
stands for the light housing but I'm not sure it would help to offset the
light 2" off the top or not? The tank is bowed, so maybe that is why I have
a problem growing plants in the foreground. I have two one-gallon glass jugs
for DIY Co2 as well, with the tubing routing through the intake of my
canister filter. One of the plants I am talking about is; Micro
sword-lilaeopsis (looks like grass) I have standard gravel and some laterite
mixed in as well. The grass just seems to grow algae and die off. My water
parameters are, PH 6.5, ammonia is good, nitrite is good, and water hardness
is low.

sounds like the DIY CO2 isn't making enough gas, do you have a way to
measure your CO2 output?? Try this link
http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/articles.htm and then
http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_co2chart.htm will measure your
CO2... It seems as though you are on the right track, and this must be a 55,
75, or 90g tank, because 192 is a buttload of light and without the CO2 to
keep up, algae seems to be taking all the CO2 and thriving....IIRC, you have
to have an abundance of nutrients for the plants, allow them to strip it
from the water, adjust when algae appears, backing off your lights timing if
necessary, guarding against any natural sunlight, and you'll be closer.

Second, the way I filter my water is with a "tap water filter" by aquarium
pharmaceuticals. I was wondering if there was a cheaper alternative to
filter tap water other than purchasing a replacement filter every month. I
have been looking at the RO filters, like the deluxe maxxima 35 HI-S by Kent
Marine. Would something like that save money later on down the road? Or
should I keep on buying the tap water filter replacements? My tap water out
of the faucet is very hard and high in PH.

I have a tap filter, a Pur, and there are many ppl who have tried, but that
doesn't really make water 'safe' for fish, it only take out some things
using salts, and you'll basically wear it out prematurely.... Get some
Wardley's Chlor out and or Prime, AmQuel or something and use it as a water
conditioner.... it's ok to use RO/DI, but you'll have to supplement to add
the stuff that is taken out with RODI water... again, not an expert, but
you're so close, be patient, wait for Chuck Gadd, Dave Milman, NetMax and
others to chime in, they ARE the experts... I just play one on the
newsgroups.... hahaha...

btw, get rid of the html, it's hard for the text only ppl to see your actual
post instead of the markup language....

Red


  #3   Report Post  
Old 11-02-2004, 04:10 PM
RedForeman ©®
 
Posts: n/a
Default lighting & tap water filter questions

"James" wrote in message
hello all,

I have a 46-gallon bow front freshwater aquarium and have a few questions
about lighting and replacing water using a tap water filter.

Fist, I seem to have a problem growing certain plants, especially ones in
the foreground. I have a coralife 192-watt compact fluorescent light, 6700k.
Which should be sufficient for any high light plant, right? I purchased the
stands for the light housing but I'm not sure it would help to offset the
light 2" off the top or not? The tank is bowed, so maybe that is why I have
a problem growing plants in the foreground. I have two one-gallon glass jugs
for DIY Co2 as well, with the tubing routing through the intake of my
canister filter. One of the plants I am talking about is; Micro
sword-lilaeopsis (looks like grass) I have standard gravel and some laterite
mixed in as well. The grass just seems to grow algae and die off. My water
parameters are, PH 6.5, ammonia is good, nitrite is good, and water hardness
is low.

sounds like the DIY CO2 isn't making enough gas, do you have a way to
measure your CO2 output?? Try this link
http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/articles.htm and then
http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_co2chart.htm will measure your
CO2... It seems as though you are on the right track, and this must be a 55,
75, or 90g tank, because 192 is a buttload of light and without the CO2 to
keep up, algae seems to be taking all the CO2 and thriving....IIRC, you have
to have an abundance of nutrients for the plants, allow them to strip it
from the water, adjust when algae appears, backing off your lights timing if
necessary, guarding against any natural sunlight, and you'll be closer.

Second, the way I filter my water is with a "tap water filter" by aquarium
pharmaceuticals. I was wondering if there was a cheaper alternative to
filter tap water other than purchasing a replacement filter every month. I
have been looking at the RO filters, like the deluxe maxxima 35 HI-S by Kent
Marine. Would something like that save money later on down the road? Or
should I keep on buying the tap water filter replacements? My tap water out
of the faucet is very hard and high in PH.

I have a tap filter, a Pur, and there are many ppl who have tried, but that
doesn't really make water 'safe' for fish, it only take out some things
using salts, and you'll basically wear it out prematurely.... Get some
Wardley's Chlor out and or Prime, AmQuel or something and use it as a water
conditioner.... it's ok to use RO/DI, but you'll have to supplement to add
the stuff that is taken out with RODI water... again, not an expert, but
you're so close, be patient, wait for Chuck Gadd, Dave Milman, NetMax and
others to chime in, they ARE the experts... I just play one on the
newsgroups.... hahaha...

btw, get rid of the html, it's hard for the text only ppl to see your actual
post instead of the markup language....

Red


  #4   Report Post  
Old 11-02-2004, 04:17 PM
RedForeman ©®
 
Posts: n/a
Default lighting & tap water filter questions

"James" wrote in message
hello all,

I have a 46-gallon bow front freshwater aquarium and have a few questions
about lighting and replacing water using a tap water filter.

Fist, I seem to have a problem growing certain plants, especially ones in
the foreground. I have a coralife 192-watt compact fluorescent light, 6700k.
Which should be sufficient for any high light plant, right? I purchased the
stands for the light housing but I'm not sure it would help to offset the
light 2" off the top or not? The tank is bowed, so maybe that is why I have
a problem growing plants in the foreground. I have two one-gallon glass jugs
for DIY Co2 as well, with the tubing routing through the intake of my
canister filter. One of the plants I am talking about is; Micro
sword-lilaeopsis (looks like grass) I have standard gravel and some laterite
mixed in as well. The grass just seems to grow algae and die off. My water
parameters are, PH 6.5, ammonia is good, nitrite is good, and water hardness
is low.

sounds like the DIY CO2 isn't making enough gas, do you have a way to
measure your CO2 output?? Try this link
http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/articles.htm and then
http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_co2chart.htm will measure your
CO2... It seems as though you are on the right track, and this must be a 55,
75, or 90g tank, because 192 is a buttload of light and without the CO2 to
keep up, algae seems to be taking all the CO2 and thriving....IIRC, you have
to have an abundance of nutrients for the plants, allow them to strip it
from the water, adjust when algae appears, backing off your lights timing if
necessary, guarding against any natural sunlight, and you'll be closer.

Second, the way I filter my water is with a "tap water filter" by aquarium
pharmaceuticals. I was wondering if there was a cheaper alternative to
filter tap water other than purchasing a replacement filter every month. I
have been looking at the RO filters, like the deluxe maxxima 35 HI-S by Kent
Marine. Would something like that save money later on down the road? Or
should I keep on buying the tap water filter replacements? My tap water out
of the faucet is very hard and high in PH.

I have a tap filter, a Pur, and there are many ppl who have tried, but that
doesn't really make water 'safe' for fish, it only take out some things
using salts, and you'll basically wear it out prematurely.... Get some
Wardley's Chlor out and or Prime, AmQuel or something and use it as a water
conditioner.... it's ok to use RO/DI, but you'll have to supplement to add
the stuff that is taken out with RODI water... again, not an expert, but
you're so close, be patient, wait for Chuck Gadd, Dave Milman, NetMax and
others to chime in, they ARE the experts... I just play one on the
newsgroups.... hahaha...

btw, get rid of the html, it's hard for the text only ppl to see your actual
post instead of the markup language....

Red


  #5   Report Post  
Old 11-02-2004, 06:06 PM
 
Posts: n/a
Default lighting & tap water filter questions

I have a 46-gallon bow front freshwater aquarium and have a few
questions about lighting and replacing water using a tap water filter.
Fist, I seem to have a problem growing certain plants, especially ones
in the foreground. I have a coralife 192-watt compact fluorescent light,
6700k. Which should be sufficient for any high light plant, right?


1/2 this lighting will grow _any_ plant I know of.
The issue is too much lighting likely. But we can figure out what you
need to do about it.

purchased the stands for the light housing but I'm not sure it would
help to offset the light 2" off the top or not? The tank is bowed, so
maybe that is why I have a problem growing plants in the foreground.


This has not been a problem for several large bow fronts I've set up
over the years, they had massive fields of Gloss that did fine with
1/3-1/2 this lighting.

I
have two one-gallon glass jugs for DIY Co2 as well, with the tubing
routing through the intake of my canister filter. One of the plants I am
talking about is; Micro sword-lilaeopsis (looks like grass) I have
standard gravel and some laterite mixed in as well. The grass just seems
to grow algae and die off. My water parameters are, PH 6.5, ammonia is
good, nitrite is good, and water hardness is low.


Well at high light you place more demand on the CO2, DIY CO2 + over 4
watts gal of lighting is a BAD combination, you should have gotten the
Gas tank CO2 first,before the high lighting.
CO2 is your weak link here and you need to either keep up on the DIY
and work at getting it to maintain enough CO2, 20-30ppm the entire
time the lights are or use gas tank CO2.

Second, the way I filter my water is with a "tap water filter" by
aquarium pharmaceuticals. I was wondering if there was a cheaper
alternative to filter tap water other than purchasing a replacement
filter every month.


Sure, use tap water. The tap water is fine for plants, you migfht want
soft water for only certain species of fish, but what is wrong with
the tap water that makes you use tap water filters or want to use RO?

I'll tell you this, you are not helping the plants by doing this, CO2
is what they are concerned about, soft vs hard water makes no
difference in plant growth. This is myth that plants prefer soft
water.

I have been looking at the RO filters, like the
deluxe maxxima 35 HI-S by Kent Marine. Would something like that save
money later on down the road? Or should I keep on buying the tap water
filter replacements? My tap water out of the faucet is very hard and
high in PH.


But you use CO2, it makes no difference as far as the plants are
concerned.
I've got pictures in TFH with very hard tap water plant tanks, KH 10 ,
GH 24 etc.
Plants grow fine if you add enough GH/KH roughly 3, but I do not know
of any upper limits, some folks do fine at 20KH and I know from years
of growing at 10KH, 24GH, high GH seems to help more than anything,
not harm plants in any way.

It's all about the CO2, if you want to save $, buy an CO2 system, you
do not need a RO for helping plants grow better. I've only seen a
couple of cases where it was well water with high salt content and
once with high copper in their pipes/supply etc. But barring these
very rare exceptions, it's a myth soft water helps plant growth.

Now your fish might prefer softer water, but the plant could care
less.
I've had and used both hard and soft water with some 250+ species of
aquatic plants. Buy the Gas CO2 or keep up on the DIY. Use plain tap
water, adjust the pH using only CO2 gas to get a CO2 level of 20-30ppm
during the entire light cycle.
see the pH/KH/CO2 table to determine the CO2 by measuring the KH
first, then seeing what pH you'll need to get a CO2 level of 20-30ppm.
Use only CO2 gas to change the pH, this is what the plants want, not
soft water/low pH etc.
Regards,
Tom Barr




Any help is appreciated!!!



Thanks,

James

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