On Tue, 06 Apr 2004 09:49:36 GMT, "Michi Henning"
wrote:

"Cardman" wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 05 Apr 2004 13:41:35 GMT, "Michi Henning"
wrote:

and slow filter.

What type?

I run two filters, an Eheim 2128 canister and an Eheim 2012
internal one.

Nice idea, when everyone should use at least a twin filter system.

The canister is rumoured to contribute to nitrate
removal. Apparently, sintered glass contains enough small
pores for some anearobic bacteria to break down nitrates.

I will have to look into that then.

Currently I have been looking into getting yet more equipment for my
two new aquariums, where I was very close to buying two more
undergravel filters and powerheads, then I changed my mind.

As I was looking into how you can put sand and an undergravel filter
together, where my solution was to get a short undergravel filter,
then to put the sand in the remaining 1/3rd.

Then I came across the good and the bad points for undergravel
filters, where although most of these do not apply to my system, but
there is the point about plants.

As of course it is harder to care for plants when almost everything is
being sucked away. So I began looking into other filter choices, where
an external power cannister filter seems most popular.

And so after looking around I am very tempted to buy the Fluval 304
external cannister power filter, which for this model can handle 710
litres an hour.

Tons more than what I would need for this aquarium, but increased
water throughput can keep the substrate in better shape.

My only bad view towards this is that it seems little more than a
glorified external sponge filter with a few extras at like 10 times
the price.

On the plus side, then it would allow extra room for more substrate
for the plants, then extra water for the fish.

I personally don't know how much credibility this explanation
really has. But I know that other fishkeepers and some people
at my LFS who've been keeping fish for longer than I have
been alive confirm that slower filters are linked to lower nitrate
levels.

All I have seen so far are the power filters, but I will certainly
look into the slower type. Although being so slow I wonder how they
can do a good suction job in the first place.

Maybe they don't produce so much Nitrates due to simply being bad at
the Ammonia to Nitrite to Nitrate cycle. Messy tanks in other words.

For nitrate breakdown to happen, you need anaerobic
areas in the filter, so the slow filter theory makes sense at
least from that angle.

This is going to need quite some research, when I can see
disadvantages to a slow filter system as well.

Aqua Medic make a rather nifty one. My LFS uses one of those for
a large marine tank. And he told me that you needn't buy the special
bio balls they sell you. Pure sulfur can be had cheaply from chemical
suppliers and does the job just as well.

Yes, I can see why.

Sounds like black brush algae. See
http://www.aquaticscape.com/articles/algae.htm
for some pictures.

Seems that I have at least 4 kinds of algae in my tank, what with that
Black Algae on those leafs, then my glass is effected by Brown Algae,
where I have a slimy Dark Green Algae on my petrified wood, where last
of all the long strangly Lighter Green Algae on the plants.

My water also has a very light green tint, but this is not a problem.

I see the recommended solution for my Black Algae is leaf removal,
which causes me a problem, when this plant has very few leafs to begin
with.

Still, maybe this algae could explain the death of these leafs, where
maybe this even came with the plant.

I will look into it, when I expect that this plant can live without
leaves for the short that before it grows more.

A reverse osmosis unit really might be a good way to go. They are not
that expensive -- around US $130.00 here in Australia, and they do
a perfect job of removing the nitrates (as well as all other salts).

I will take a look around, when apart from doing a good job, then this
is a question of price.

Cardman
http://www.cardman.com
http://www.cardman.co.uk