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Old 27-02-2005, 05:44 PM
I3 I L L
 
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Default Watching nutrient levels

Hello, Greg Watson's PMDD formula should be arriving Monday and I was
wondering how should I go about measuring the nutrient levels? I
already have a test kit for nitrate but what about other nutrients?

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Old 27-02-2005, 11:33 PM
Robert Flory
 
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"I3 I L L" wrote in message
ups.com...
Hello, Greg Watson's PMDD formula should be arriving Monday and I was
wondering how should I go about measuring the nutrient levels? I
already have a test kit for nitrate but what about other nutrients?

Try Tom Barrs formula with 50% water changes weekly, much cheaper and
simpler than screwing with test kits. With only a bit of adjustment you can
work out what is best from that point.
bob


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Old 27-02-2005, 11:36 PM
Robert Flory
 
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Under dosing or unbalanced dosing generally causes more touble than ever
dosing.

Health fast growing plants will beat algae everything if nurients are fairly
well balanced.

Bob


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Old 28-02-2005, 12:08 AM
I3 I L L
 
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Default

All the dosing instructions I've seen are for each compound separately.
I was assuming that the PMDD from Greg Watson was 1# of various
fertilizers mixed together. Is this how it is, and would someone have a
link to T. Barr's formula? Thanks

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Old 28-02-2005, 03:11 AM
Robert Flory
 
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"I3 I L L" wrote in message
oups.com...
All the dosing instructions I've seen are for each compound separately.
I was assuming that the PMDD from Greg Watson was 1# of various
fertilizers mixed together. Is this how it is, and would someone have a
link to T. Barr's formula? Thanks


http://www.sfbaaps.com/reference/barr_02_01.shtml
try http://www.aquabotanic.com/aquamenu.htm
or join us at http://www.actwin.com/mailman/listinfo/aquatic-plants

or check out http://www.barrreport.com/ there are some free areas.

Bob




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Old 28-02-2005, 03:39 AM
Robert Flory
 
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"I3 I L L" wrote in message
oups.com...
All the dosing instructions I've seen are for each compound separately.
I was assuming that the PMDD from Greg Watson was 1# of various
fertilizers mixed together. Is this how it is, and would someone have a
link to T. Barr's formula? Thanks

Here are some good sources .....

Chuck Gadd calculator
on line
http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_p...osage_calc.htm
on you own computer
http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_aquacalc.htm

check out
http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_p...izer_intro.htm

http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/Fertilizer/ and
http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/Fertilizer/pmdd-tim.html

Here is an interesting one on carbon and trace elements I'd missed before
http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/Fertil...ar-carbon.html

Bob


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Old 28-02-2005, 04:16 AM
I3 I L L
 
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Default

Well, I must be something right if I my plants continue to grow. My kh
is 6 degrees(107ppm) and gh is 6 degrees as well. I add baking soda to
kick up the kh. I was referring to those Chuck Gadd calculators in my
previous post, they are very helpful.

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Old 28-02-2005, 12:08 AM
Richard Sexton
 
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Try Tom Barrs formula with 50% water changes weekly, much cheaper and
simpler than screwing with test kits. With only a bit of adjustment you can
work out what is best from that point.


Yes, that's the way to go. One point though, get your tap water tested
so you know where you're starting from for the purpose of adding ferts
is to bring your levels up to where youwant them to be from where they
are.

Some tapwater is high in phosphate so you wouldn't want to add any
if it's fine out of the tap. If your water is very hard you won't
want to add MgSO4 ("Epsom salts"); if your water is soft, you do.

Once you know the difference between where you are and where you
want to be it should be easy to figure out what to add each week.

--
Need Mercedes parts ? - http://parts.mbz.org
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633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | Killies, killi.net, Crypts, aquaria.net
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Old 28-02-2005, 12:27 AM
I3 I L L
 
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Default

I use distilled water because the tap water is ridiculously high in
phosphates. So I guess I would have to add all the compounds since
there's not any nutrients in the water I'm adding.

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Old 28-02-2005, 01:09 AM
Richard Sexton
 
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In article .com,
I3 I L L wrote:
I use distilled water because the tap water is ridiculously high in
phosphates. So I guess I would have to add all the compounds since
there's not any nutrients in the water I'm adding.


You use nothing but distilled water? I'm shocked anything is still
alive.


--
Need Mercedes parts ? - http://parts.mbz.org
http://www.mbz.org | Mercedes Mailing lists: http://lists.mbz.org
633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | Killies, killi.net, Crypts, aquaria.net
1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Old wris****ches http://watches.list.mbz.org


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Old 28-02-2005, 02:22 AM
I3 I L L
 
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Default

LOL, Of course I add nutrients. I use flourish and iron tabs to
fertilize. I also have pressurized co2 running.

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Old 28-02-2005, 03:15 AM
Robert Flory
 
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Default


"I3 I L L" wrote in message
oups.com...
I use distilled water because the tap water is ridiculously high in
phosphates. So I guess I would have to add all the compounds since
there's not any nutrients in the water I'm adding.


How high is ridiculously high.....

In that case just minimize the addition of phospates, go for N & K and
traces.

Bob


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Old 28-02-2005, 03:13 AM
Robert Flory
 
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Default


"Richard Sexton" wrote in message
...
Try Tom Barrs formula with 50% water changes weekly, much cheaper and
simpler than screwing with test kits. With only a bit of adjustment you
can
work out what is best from that point.


Yes, that's the way to go. One point though, get your tap water tested
so you know where you're starting from for the purpose of adding ferts
is to bring your levels up to where youwant them to be from where they
are.

Some tapwater is high in phosphate so you wouldn't want to add any
if it's fine out of the tap. If your water is very hard you won't
want to add MgSO4 ("Epsom salts"); if your water is soft, you do.

Once you know the difference between where you are and where you
want to be it should be easy to figure out what to add each week.

--
Need Mercedes parts ? - http://parts.mbz.org
http://www.mbz.org | Mercedes Mailing lists: http://lists.mbz.org
633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | Killies, killi.net, Crypts, aquaria.net
1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Old wris****ches http://watches.list.mbz.org


Call the water company and ask for a copy of their annual analyses. Tell
them what you are doing so they understand what you need and why and aren't
just some trouble maker. They tend to be paranoid.

Bob


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Old 28-02-2005, 04:21 AM
Richard Sexton
 
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Default

Call the water company and ask for a copy of their annual analyses. Tell
them what you are doing so they understand what you need and why and aren't
just some trouble maker. They tend to be paranoid.


I live way out in the country. I am my water comnpany :-)

--
Need Mercedes parts ? - http://parts.mbz.org
http://www.mbz.org | Mercedes Mailing lists: http://lists.mbz.org
633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | Killies, killi.net, Crypts, aquaria.net
1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Old wris****ches http://watches.list.mbz.org
  #15   Report Post  
Old 28-02-2005, 04:58 AM
Robert Flory
 
Posts: n/a
Default

That makes it a bit more expensive ;-) I've been there ... had iron levels
you could walk on. I tolerated it but my wife couldn't drink it. Of course,
in the days before Gillette, Wyo put in the new water system I even got to
the point I could tolerate the water there. Epson salts :-) made really
dangerous coffee.

Bob

"Richard Sexton" wrote in message
...
Call the water company and ask for a copy of their annual analyses. Tell
them what you are doing so they understand what you need and why and
aren't
just some trouble maker. They tend to be paranoid.


I live way out in the country. I am my water comnpany :-)

--
Need Mercedes parts ? - http://parts.mbz.org
http://www.mbz.org | Mercedes Mailing lists: http://lists.mbz.org
633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | Killies, killi.net, Crypts, aquaria.net
1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Old wris****ches http://watches.list.mbz.org





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