Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
best spot weed killer
But a weed torch. You can get them at Home depot. IT fries the weed and
nothing else. "tenplay" wrote in message . .. I would like to zap weeds growing in the lawn and garden without harming the grass and plants growing around the weeds. What is the best way to do it? I saw something called a Weed Stick online, where you supposedly walk around injecting any kind of concentrated weed killer directly on the weed. Anyone try it? Would WD40 or gasoline work using a direct applicator? It sounds like a lot of folks use Roundup, but I find that it works too slow. It seems to take a couple of days for the leaves to begin turning brown. Thanks for any suggestions. |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
best spot weed killer
Yes on Roundup and weed torches or flamers.
But, keep in mind that herbicides and flamers do not actually remove weeds. Even if they successfully kill the weeds, the weeds are still there. This means that they take space in lawns, for example, where you need good grass to grow. That's why it's better to use a tool that actually removes weeds, like the "Herbicide Helper" Weed Twister. This tool will twist out crabgrass dead or alive. The sooner the crabgrass is gone, the sooner your good grass can take its place. For more info on the Herbicide Helper check out weedtwister.com. Twist, clean up on weeds after Roundup, and save on herbicide costs! BTW not all weed twisters are the same... kenv wrote: But a weed torch. You can get them at Home depot. IT fries the weed and nothing else. "tenplay" wrote in message . .. I would like to zap weeds growing in the lawn and garden without harming the grass and plants growing around the weeds. What is the best way to do it? I saw something called a Weed Stick online, where you supposedly walk around injecting any kind of concentrated weed killer directly on the weed. Anyone try it? Would WD40 or gasoline work using a direct applicator? It sounds like a lot of folks use Roundup, but I find that it works too slow. It seems to take a couple of days for the leaves to begin turning brown. Thanks for any suggestions. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
best spot weed killer
On 11 Oct 2006 19:16:18 -0700, "raycruzer"
wrote: Yes on Roundup and weed torches or flamers. But, keep in mind that herbicides and flamers do not actually remove weeds. Even if they successfully kill the weeds, the weeds are still there. This means that they take space in lawns, for example, where you need good grass to grow. Nonsense. When the weed is dead it is gone, not producing any more seeds nor sending out any runners. The weed biomass will be there until it decays and becomes part of the soil structure (a good use for a dead weed). That's why it's better to use a tool that actually removes weeds, like the "Herbicide Helper" Weed Twister. This tool will twist out crabgrass dead or alive. The sooner the crabgrass is gone, the sooner your good grass can take its place. More nonsense. Removing part of a weed does not get rid of it as part of its root structure is still in the soil and will promptly develop into a new weed plant. Dead crabgrass has already produced seeds which will sprout into new crabgrass unless treated with a pre-emergent herbicide, organic or other. The "twister" removes only the old crabgrass plant which I can do easily with my bare hands if so inclined. JMHO but I have nothing to sell. John |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
best spot weed killer
If you prefer to use your hands, go to it!
Some people prefer a tool that makes the job just a little bit easier. John Bachman wrote: On 11 Oct 2006 19:16:18 -0700, "raycruzer" wrote: Yes on Roundup and weed torches or flamers. But, keep in mind that herbicides and flamers do not actually remove weeds. Even if they successfully kill the weeds, the weeds are still there. This means that they take space in lawns, for example, where you need good grass to grow. Nonsense. When the weed is dead it is gone, not producing any more seeds nor sending out any runners. The weed biomass will be there until it decays and becomes part of the soil structure (a good use for a dead weed). That's why it's better to use a tool that actually removes weeds, like the "Herbicide Helper" Weed Twister. This tool will twist out crabgrass dead or alive. The sooner the crabgrass is gone, the sooner your good grass can take its place. More nonsense. Removing part of a weed does not get rid of it as part of its root structure is still in the soil and will promptly develop into a new weed plant. Dead crabgrass has already produced seeds which will sprout into new crabgrass unless treated with a pre-emergent herbicide, organic or other. The "twister" removes only the old crabgrass plant which I can do easily with my bare hands if so inclined. JMHO but I have nothing to sell. John |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
best spot weed killer
raycruzer wrote:
If you prefer to use your hands, go to it! Some people prefer a tool that makes the job just a little bit easier. I am quite curious about the points that Mr. Bachman raised. Could you kindly address them? -- John McWilliams Coach: "Are you just ignorant, or merely apathetic?" Player: "Coach, I don't know, and I don't care." |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
best spot weed killer
But, keep in mind that herbicides and flamers do not actually remove
weeds. Even if they successfully kill the weeds, the weeds are still there. This means that they take space in lawns, for example, where you need good grass to grow. Nonsense. When the weed is dead it is gone, not producing any more seeds nor sending out any runners. The weed biomass will be there until it decays and becomes part of the soil structure (a good use for a dead weed). I agree that they are usually dead and harmless, IF DEAD. The glyphosate is active IN THE PLANT for several days, even though the chemicals decompose IN THE SOIL. The chemicals don't decompose in the plant, because if they did, they wouldn't be effective. Most people don't kill a weed just to stop it from growing. They really want it GONE!. Once they think it's dead, they remove it! This is double effort and cost. IF you're going to remove it anyway, in most cases, it's quicker and easier to remove it right away with a mechanical approach, either by hand or by using a tool. If you're not going to remove it but you're content to let it stay in your lawn or garden, even though it causes a toxic hazard for at least a few days, then, you may have at least solved the problem of stopping the weed from further growth. That's why it's better to use a tool that actually removes weeds, like the "Herbicide Helper" Weed Twister. This tool will twist out crabgrass dead or alive. The sooner the crabgrass is gone, the sooner your good grass can take its place. More nonsense. Removing part of a weed does not get rid of it as part of its root structure is still in the soil and will promptly develop into a new weed plant. Dead crabgrass has already produced seeds which will sprout into new crabgrass unless treated with a pre-emergent herbicide, organic or other. The "twister" removes only the old crabgrass plant which I can do easily with my bare hands if so inclined. The "twister", in this case the twister with the coiled tines, effectively removes more parts of a grass like crabgrass than any other tool known to man. It pulls out large chuncks of networked stems, roots and rhizomes by the twisting motion. Although some parts of the stems may remain, the twister allows you to "fish" for remaining strands and stems fairly efficiently. If you use your hands, you will work much harder and accomplish much less in the same amount of time. If you use a hoe, for example, you will chop up pieces of stems, and make the job of finding them even harder! Spraying postemergent herbicides on crabgrass or bermudagrass can only be done in spots where the good grass or plants are safely separated from the bad plants. When you reach the margins where they intermingle, you cannot use the herbicide without also killing your preferred grasses or plants. Here you must use your fingers or a tool of your choice. In my opinion, we have seen a siginificant increase in crabgrass pressure in recent years, partly because we all want to do things in a simple way, and spraying stuff seems simple. Over the years, I have cleared large areas of my garden from bermudagrass, crabgrass and Saint Augustin, simply by repeatedly tugging away at these pesty grass sprouts with my handy twister. A combination of appropriate herbicides, when and if necessary, and appropriate tools and a little sweat is the ticket. Everything takes time... -- Raycruzer weeder John McWilliams wrote: raycruzer wrote: If you prefer to use your hands, go to it! Some people prefer a tool that makes the job just a little bit easier. I am quite curious about the points that Mr. Bachman raised. Could you kindly address them? -- John McWilliams Coach: "Are you just ignorant, or merely apathetic?" Player: "Coach, I don't know, and I don't care." |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
best spot weed killer
raycruzer wrote:
But, keep in mind that herbicides and flamers do not actually remove weeds. Even if they successfully kill the weeds, the weeds are still there. This means that they take space in lawns, for example, where you need good grass to grow. Nonsense. When the weed is dead it is gone, not producing any more seeds nor sending out any runners. The weed biomass will be there until it decays and becomes part of the soil structure (a good use for a dead weed). I agree that they are usually dead and harmless, IF DEAD. The glyphosate is active IN THE PLANT for several days, even though the chemicals decompose IN THE SOIL. The chemicals don't decompose in the plant, because if they did, they wouldn't be effective. Most people don't kill a weed just to stop it from growing. They really want it GONE!. Once they think it's dead, they remove it! This is double effort and cost. IF you're going to remove it anyway, in most cases, it's quicker and easier to remove it right away with a mechanical approach, either by hand or by using a tool. If you're not going to remove it but you're content to let it stay in your lawn or garden, even though it causes a toxic hazard for at least a few days, then, you may have at least solved the problem of stopping the weed from further growth. That's why it's better to use a tool that actually removes weeds, like the "Herbicide Helper" Weed Twister. This tool will twist out crabgrass dead or alive. The sooner the crabgrass is gone, the sooner your good grass can take its place. More nonsense. Removing part of a weed does not get rid of it as part of its root structure is still in the soil and will promptly develop into a new weed plant. Dead crabgrass has already produced seeds which will sprout into new crabgrass unless treated with a pre-emergent herbicide, organic or other. The "twister" removes only the old crabgrass plant which I can do easily with my bare hands if so inclined. The "twister", in this case the twister with the coiled tines, effectively removes more parts of a grass like crabgrass than any other tool known to man. It pulls out large chuncks of networked stems, roots and rhizomes by the twisting motion. Although some parts of the stems may remain, the twister allows you to "fish" for remaining strands and stems fairly efficiently. If you use your hands, you will work much harder and accomplish much less in the same amount of time. If you use a hoe, for example, you will chop up pieces of stems, and make the job of finding them even harder! Spraying postemergent herbicides on crabgrass or bermudagrass can only be done in spots where the good grass or plants are safely separated from the bad plants. When you reach the margins where they intermingle, you cannot use the herbicide without also killing your preferred grasses or plants. Here you must use your fingers or a tool of your choice. How about Weed-BeGone, which claims to kill weeds without harming the grass around the weed? Wouldn't that do the job? |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
best spot weed killer
raycruzer wrote:
I agree that they are usually dead and harmless, IF DEAD. The glyphosate is active IN THE PLANT for several days, even though the chemicals decompose IN THE SOIL. Snipped bits out \ I had written: I am quite curious about the points that Mr. Bachman raised. Could you kindly address them? Thanks. I was looking also for you to address any commercial ties you may have thereto. -- john mcwilliams |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
best spot weed killer
raycruzer wrote: Blah, blah, blah ... Buy My Product ! ... blah, blah, blah, Buy My Product! ================ Please take your spam elsewhere. |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Serial killer captured and charged after 30 years of evading police in the number one small city in the USA- Killer confesses to many more killings | Ponds | |||
Weed Killer and Ant Killer that is dog friendly | Lawns | |||
Spot application weed killer | United Kingdom | |||
Duck Weed!! Duck Weed!! Duck Weed!! | Ponds | |||
Help, weed name? Best weed killer? | Gardening |