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#1
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best spot weed killer
raycruzer wrote:
But, keep in mind that herbicides and flamers do not actually remove weeds. Even if they successfully kill the weeds, the weeds are still there. This means that they take space in lawns, for example, where you need good grass to grow. Nonsense. When the weed is dead it is gone, not producing any more seeds nor sending out any runners. The weed biomass will be there until it decays and becomes part of the soil structure (a good use for a dead weed). I agree that they are usually dead and harmless, IF DEAD. The glyphosate is active IN THE PLANT for several days, even though the chemicals decompose IN THE SOIL. The chemicals don't decompose in the plant, because if they did, they wouldn't be effective. Most people don't kill a weed just to stop it from growing. They really want it GONE!. Once they think it's dead, they remove it! This is double effort and cost. IF you're going to remove it anyway, in most cases, it's quicker and easier to remove it right away with a mechanical approach, either by hand or by using a tool. If you're not going to remove it but you're content to let it stay in your lawn or garden, even though it causes a toxic hazard for at least a few days, then, you may have at least solved the problem of stopping the weed from further growth. That's why it's better to use a tool that actually removes weeds, like the "Herbicide Helper" Weed Twister. This tool will twist out crabgrass dead or alive. The sooner the crabgrass is gone, the sooner your good grass can take its place. More nonsense. Removing part of a weed does not get rid of it as part of its root structure is still in the soil and will promptly develop into a new weed plant. Dead crabgrass has already produced seeds which will sprout into new crabgrass unless treated with a pre-emergent herbicide, organic or other. The "twister" removes only the old crabgrass plant which I can do easily with my bare hands if so inclined. The "twister", in this case the twister with the coiled tines, effectively removes more parts of a grass like crabgrass than any other tool known to man. It pulls out large chuncks of networked stems, roots and rhizomes by the twisting motion. Although some parts of the stems may remain, the twister allows you to "fish" for remaining strands and stems fairly efficiently. If you use your hands, you will work much harder and accomplish much less in the same amount of time. If you use a hoe, for example, you will chop up pieces of stems, and make the job of finding them even harder! Spraying postemergent herbicides on crabgrass or bermudagrass can only be done in spots where the good grass or plants are safely separated from the bad plants. When you reach the margins where they intermingle, you cannot use the herbicide without also killing your preferred grasses or plants. Here you must use your fingers or a tool of your choice. How about Weed-BeGone, which claims to kill weeds without harming the grass around the weed? Wouldn't that do the job? |
#2
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best spot weed killer
Weed-Be-Gone is safe for grass, according to the Ortho instructions,
except for certain grasses like St. Augustine, for example. Ortho has a different product for St. Augustine grass weeds. Quoting from Ortho: "Do not use on Floratam, a variety of St. Augustinegrass common in Florida. Do not spray on Carpetgrass, Dichondra or desirable clovers." I've seen one complaint on the web of a tree that was half-killed by something coincidentally shortly after spraying the stuff on weeds around the tree. This may be merely a coincidence. In all cases, it's important to read the label. Of course, the instructions are usually in very fine print and sometimes we're hasty in not reading the instructions very carefully. There's a large image of the instructions on a Roundup container published on the weedtwister website, so that people can read the details and take their time. No need to rush into buying this or any product or tool. Our timing is rather irrelevant as far as the world of weeds is concerned. ---- Raycruzer weeder tenplay wrote: raycruzer wrote: But, keep in mind that herbicides and flamers do not actually remove weeds. Even if they successfully kill the weeds, the weeds are still there. This means that they take space in lawns, for example, where you need good grass to grow. Nonsense. When the weed is dead it is gone, not producing any more seeds nor sending out any runners. The weed biomass will be there until it decays and becomes part of the soil structure (a good use for a dead weed). I agree that they are usually dead and harmless, IF DEAD. The glyphosate is active IN THE PLANT for several days, even though the chemicals decompose IN THE SOIL. The chemicals don't decompose in the plant, because if they did, they wouldn't be effective. Most people don't kill a weed just to stop it from growing. They really want it GONE!. Once they think it's dead, they remove it! This is double effort and cost. IF you're going to remove it anyway, in most cases, it's quicker and easier to remove it right away with a mechanical approach, either by hand or by using a tool. If you're not going to remove it but you're content to let it stay in your lawn or garden, even though it causes a toxic hazard for at least a few days, then, you may have at least solved the problem of stopping the weed from further growth. That's why it's better to use a tool that actually removes weeds, like the "Herbicide Helper" Weed Twister. This tool will twist out crabgrass dead or alive. The sooner the crabgrass is gone, the sooner your good grass can take its place. More nonsense. Removing part of a weed does not get rid of it as part of its root structure is still in the soil and will promptly develop into a new weed plant. Dead crabgrass has already produced seeds which will sprout into new crabgrass unless treated with a pre-emergent herbicide, organic or other. The "twister" removes only the old crabgrass plant which I can do easily with my bare hands if so inclined. The "twister", in this case the twister with the coiled tines, effectively removes more parts of a grass like crabgrass than any other tool known to man. It pulls out large chuncks of networked stems, roots and rhizomes by the twisting motion. Although some parts of the stems may remain, the twister allows you to "fish" for remaining strands and stems fairly efficiently. If you use your hands, you will work much harder and accomplish much less in the same amount of time. If you use a hoe, for example, you will chop up pieces of stems, and make the job of finding them even harder! Spraying postemergent herbicides on crabgrass or bermudagrass can only be done in spots where the good grass or plants are safely separated from the bad plants. When you reach the margins where they intermingle, you cannot use the herbicide without also killing your preferred grasses or plants. Here you must use your fingers or a tool of your choice. How about Weed-BeGone, which claims to kill weeds without harming the grass around the weed? Wouldn't that do the job? |
#3
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best spot weed killer
On 13 Oct 2006 10:16:24 -0700, "raycruzer"
wrote: Weed-Be-Gone is safe for grass, according to the Ortho instructions, except for certain grasses like St. Augustine, for example. Ortho has a different product for St. Augustine grass weeds. Quoting from Ortho: "Do not use on Floratam, a variety of St. Augustinegrass common in Florida. Do not spray on Carpetgrass, Dichondra or desirable clovers." I've seen one complaint on the web of a tree that was half-killed by something coincidentally shortly after spraying the stuff on weeds around the tree. This may be merely a coincidence. In all cases, it's important to read the label. Of course, the instructions are usually in very fine print and sometimes we're hasty in not reading the instructions very carefully. There's a large image of the instructions on a Roundup container published on the weedtwister website, so that people can read the details and take their time. No need to rush into buying this or any product or tool. Our timing is rather irrelevant as far as the world of weeds is concerned. ---- Raycruzer Probably not a coincidence. Your trees are your largest "broadleaf weeds" in the weed-n-feed worldview. Use these chemicals at your own risk. Keith Babberney ISA Certified Arborist #TX-0236AT |
#4
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best spot weed killer
I'm curious to know if people are willing to spend, say, an hour a week
on mowing their lawns, how much time are they willing to devote to pulling weeds? --- Raycruzer weeder Treedweller wrote: On 13 Oct 2006 10:16:24 -0700, "raycruzer" wrote: Weed-Be-Gone is safe for grass, according to the Ortho instructions, except for certain grasses like St. Augustine, for example. Ortho has a different product for St. Augustine grass weeds. Quoting from Ortho: "Do not use on Floratam, a variety of St. Augustinegrass common in Florida. Do not spray on Carpetgrass, Dichondra or desirable clovers." I've seen one complaint on the web of a tree that was half-killed by something coincidentally shortly after spraying the stuff on weeds around the tree. This may be merely a coincidence. In all cases, it's important to read the label. Of course, the instructions are usually in very fine print and sometimes we're hasty in not reading the instructions very carefully. There's a large image of the instructions on a Roundup container published on the weedtwister website, so that people can read the details and take their time. No need to rush into buying this or any product or tool. Our timing is rather irrelevant as far as the world of weeds is concerned. ---- Raycruzer Probably not a coincidence. Your trees are your largest "broadleaf weeds" in the weed-n-feed worldview. Use these chemicals at your own risk. Keith Babberney ISA Certified Arborist #TX-0236AT |
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