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Old 11-01-2007, 02:48 AM posted to rec.gardens
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First recorded activity by GardenBanter: Jul 2006
Posts: 138
Default Remove dead leaves to prevent mold on groundcover

QUESTION: "I planted pachysandra two years ago under heavy shade
trees. It is doing so-so. I now have a lot of leaves and I would like
to clean up the area with a blower. Should I cover the plants with
leaves for the winter or blow away the leaves? The plants are about 8
inches high." - Sam Crow

ANSWER: Although pachysandra loves organic soil, I would still blow the
leaves away and (if necessary) apply an aged compost mix around the
base of the plants. Dry leaves that are chopped up make a great mulch
to put around plants and in compost. However, fallen leaves that are in
shady areas, and usually moist, often mold and become a haven for bugs
as well.

The plants should be sturdy enough to take the blowing or you might
rake the leaves carefully into the open and then blow them away.

It can take a good 2-3 years for a groundcover to establish itself. If
winterburn occurs on your pachysandra, you can rejuvenate it with a
mowing, using the mower's highest setting, in early spring only. A
good fertilizer would be in the range of 12-4-8.

My wife, Cheryl, fielded the following question that was a follow-up to
a previous column.

QUESTION: "I read an article in your newsletter that suggested Epsom
salts for crape myrtle. Did you also say that Epsom salts were good to
get lilac to bloom? I may have gotten confused!" - Laura Fraser

ANSWER: Epsom salts is good for not only crape myrtles, but other
trees, shrubs, roses, perennials, and vegetables. Due to erosion and
lack of topsoil in many areas, many nutrients are lost. The Epsom salts
add sulfur and magnesium back into the soil for the plants.

Use about 1/2 cup of salts per gallon of water over five or so of the
plants every 4-6 weeks. It doesn't hurt even when leaves are on the
plants for it to hit them, as it will just absorb it through the
leaves.

Previously in this column, I included a Q&A about insects that looked
like ladybugs but in fact were not. Here, again, is that Q&A, followed
by a recent comment from another reader. QUESTION: "I was reading
your suggestion to keep wasp away, and I was wondering if you have any
for ladybugs. Yes, I know ladybugs are a good thing but you know what
they say about too much of a good thing. Everyone that has a place near
a wooded area is having problems with these bugs. They can work their
way around weatherstripping on doors and windows and never go away once
inside your home. HELP!" - Don

ANSWER: We have the same problem. The critters that you are referring
to probably are not "real" ladybugs, but migrating bugs that really
become a problem at one time of the year. We have sprayed with a lot of
different things but nothing seems to work for us either. The only
thing I can tell you is they bite and your only defense is a fly
swatter. I will post your question on www.landsteward.org and maybe
someone else will have a solution.

And someone did!

COMMENT: I am responding to the query about how to control an
infestation of ladybugs in the house. When we moved into our current
house about three years ago, there were a lot of these insects inside
the home. They would congregate in clumps around the windows and door
frames, especially in the fall when the weather changes. We found a
simply solution: We vacuumed them up with our household vacuum. Now,
three years later, they are no longer a problem. Every now and then I
will see one or two bugs, but the infestation is history. - Cassandra
Niemczyk

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs
and landscaping to and for resources and
additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed
newsletter, visit
www.landsteward.org

  #2   Report Post  
Old 11-01-2007, 11:58 PM posted to rec.gardens
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by GardenBanter: Dec 2006
Posts: 5
Default Remove dead leaves to prevent mold on groundcover

The leaves would be great for the soil.

If you could get some composted leaves you might top dress over the pac.
Would help your tree.


--
Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Beware of so-called TREE EXPERTS who do not understand TREE BIOLOGY!
www.treedictionary.com and http://mercury.ccil.org/~treeman/
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.
" wrote in message
ups.com...
QUESTION: "I planted pachysandra two years ago under heavy shade
trees. It is doing so-so. I now have a lot of leaves and I would like
to clean up the area with a blower. Should I cover the plants with
leaves for the winter or blow away the leaves? The plants are about 8
inches high." - Sam Crow

ANSWER: Although pachysandra loves organic soil, I would still blow the
leaves away and (if necessary) apply an aged compost mix around the
base of the plants. Dry leaves that are chopped up make a great mulch
to put around plants and in compost. However, fallen leaves that are in
shady areas, and usually moist, often mold and become a haven for bugs
as well.

The plants should be sturdy enough to take the blowing or you might
rake the leaves carefully into the open and then blow them away.

It can take a good 2-3 years for a groundcover to establish itself. If
winterburn occurs on your pachysandra, you can rejuvenate it with a
mowing, using the mower's highest setting, in early spring only. A
good fertilizer would be in the range of 12-4-8.

My wife, Cheryl, fielded the following question that was a follow-up to
a previous column.

QUESTION: "I read an article in your newsletter that suggested Epsom
salts for crape myrtle. Did you also say that Epsom salts were good to
get lilac to bloom? I may have gotten confused!" - Laura Fraser

ANSWER: Epsom salts is good for not only crape myrtles, but other
trees, shrubs, roses, perennials, and vegetables. Due to erosion and
lack of topsoil in many areas, many nutrients are lost. The Epsom salts
add sulfur and magnesium back into the soil for the plants.

Use about 1/2 cup of salts per gallon of water over five or so of the
plants every 4-6 weeks. It doesn't hurt even when leaves are on the
plants for it to hit them, as it will just absorb it through the
leaves.

Previously in this column, I included a Q&A about insects that looked
like ladybugs but in fact were not. Here, again, is that Q&A, followed
by a recent comment from another reader. QUESTION: "I was reading
your suggestion to keep wasp away, and I was wondering if you have any
for ladybugs. Yes, I know ladybugs are a good thing but you know what
they say about too much of a good thing. Everyone that has a place near
a wooded area is having problems with these bugs. They can work their
way around weatherstripping on doors and windows and never go away once
inside your home. HELP!" - Don

ANSWER: We have the same problem. The critters that you are referring
to probably are not "real" ladybugs, but migrating bugs that really
become a problem at one time of the year. We have sprayed with a lot of
different things but nothing seems to work for us either. The only
thing I can tell you is they bite and your only defense is a fly
swatter. I will post your question on www.landsteward.org and maybe
someone else will have a solution.

And someone did!

COMMENT: I am responding to the query about how to control an
infestation of ladybugs in the house. When we moved into our current
house about three years ago, there were a lot of these insects inside
the home. They would congregate in clumps around the windows and door
frames, especially in the fall when the weather changes. We found a
simply solution: We vacuumed them up with our household vacuum. Now,
three years later, they are no longer a problem. Every now and then I
will see one or two bugs, but the infestation is history. - Cassandra
Niemczyk

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs
and landscaping to and for resources and
additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed
newsletter, visit
www.landsteward.org



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