Growing Strawberries is fun, easy, and inexpensive. To help you get
started, here are a few growing tips and variety descriptions.

Location: Strawberries do best in a spot with full sun, good air
circulation, and good drainage. Avoid areas with known nematode and
root weevil problems, as well as old strawberry beds and spots
consistently planted with potatoes or tomatoes. These beds may be
infected with verticillium wilt or a number of other fungi or viruses
that can trouble your new crop.

Soil: Soil for strawberry beds should be rich and well draining. Most
soil in this area improves by thoroughly working in a thick layer of
compost and about 4 lbs. of bone meal or Territorial's Complete
Fertilizer per 100 sq. ft.

Planting: The most popular ways to layout the growing area are the
''Hill System'' and the ''Matted Row.'' In the ''Hill System'' plants
are set 12'' apart in raised beds usually with 2 rows each. Runners
may grow into the planting row but not the aisles--or area between the
beds. This method produces premium fruit. To use the ''Matted Row,''
plant every 2 ft. in rows that are 3 ft. apart. This spacing allows
rows to fill with runners while keeping an aisle for picking.
Whichever method you choose, plant the starts with care. Fan out the
roots in the planting hole leaving topmost roots below soil. Don't
bury the central leaf bud! Replace and pack the soil firmly around
plants. Be sure they are kept moist.

Growing: Blossoms on June-bearing plants should be pinched off during
the first year. Pinch off blossoms on Everbearers only during the
first 2 months they bloom. Blossom-Pinching diverts energy to plant
development, making a good strong plant with a large healthy yield.
Pinch runners of both types of strawberries for as long as possible to
establish stronger mother plants.

Cleanup: Fall cleanup and fertilizing are highly recommended. A
thorough cleaning of the beds reduces the chance of fungus or disease
problems and makes the area less suitable for insects that winter over
in this area. Use a power mover on large plantings with the blade set
on high. On small plantings simply use shears to clip off old foliage.
Fertilize with a side dressing of Territorial's Complete Fertilizer or
steer manure and bone meal.

Final Tips: As hard as it may be, you should destroy the patch after
the fourth year. Beyond this point plants will usually lose vigor and
become very susceptible to damage caused by fungus, virus, and root
weevil. Plan ahead and plant a new crop the third year in a different
location. This method provides you with a continuous harvest.

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