"brooklyn1" wrote in message
...

"Dioclese" wrote
"RK77" wrote:

Thanks for responding to my previous post. I just need some more help
as I'm amateur gardener.

I've got plenty of weeds on bare soil, no lawn at the moment. Soil is
okay at the moment but pretty uneven and I've to put 15cm of topsoil to
make it level.

I've tried to remove them by digging up but sometimes their roots are
too deep and they just break up. Will it be a problem if I leave those
broken roots or I've to take them out whatever happens. I most case I
really have to dig deep to get to them.

Once all the weeds are removed and site is cleared I'll be putting 15cm
of topsoil on top of existing soil. Will that help OR the weeds will
still penetrate from there as well.

I'll put ready made turf on top of that once leveled and free from
weed.

Also I was thinking of getting the rotovator if it makes life easier as
there are plenty of weeds and digging is taking decent time.
Please let me know if that will be helpful so that I can rent one out
or should I just use hand tools.


The best way that I found is too scythe the weeds as low as possible.
Rake it all up in a pile and burn it elsewhere. Turn over about 2 feet
in depth of the soil, and let it dry out well. Break it up after dried,
and rake out all the remnants and do the same as you did previously.
Then, run the rototiller, then add your soil additions and rototill those
in.

I don't know of a non-laborious method of doing the above to achieve the
same results.




What's with all the futzing around, the OP is gonna put in a sod lawn...

Till.
Amend.
Till.
Rake.
Roll.
Lay in pipe for auto sprinklers - never try a sod lawn without.
Lay down sod.

That's it, all in one day... no screwin' around... no time for new weeds
to grow.

That said I hate sod lawns... they're not very healthy... may as well put
down
astroturf. The best is a seeded lawn, hydro seeded is the ultimate.




The method you indicate is normal. What is not equivalent is the method of
weed removal by hand digging and hand removal, Much more throrough and
laborious as I indicated. Time for dryout, more than 24 hours, also lends
to easier hand removal. Initial tilling lends to breaking up the weed
beneath the soil. Some "weeds" proliferate easily from simple root
remnants. The method I indicated tends to remove the vast majority of those
root structures initially before any tilling is done. In my opinion, its
not nearly the same in the end game as the picture you try to paint.
--
Dave

In article ,
Jangchub wrote:

I don't know what type weeds you are working with, but where I live we
have this wonderful thing called bermuda grass.

My "weeds" are primarily my cover crops, rye and clover, with the odd
peppermint poking up occasionally. By and large, a single sheet of
newsprint, plus mulch, is sufficient to suppress my "weeds".
--

- Billy
"For the first time in the history of the world, every human being
is now subjected to contact with dangerous chemicals, from the
moment of conception until death." - Rachel Carson

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WI29wVQN8Go

http://www.haaretz.com/hasen/spages/1072040.html