Hello,

Live in New England, outside of Boston.

Boy, what a great season for Moss.
Never had so much.

What's a good way of ridding a grass lawn of Moss without killing any
underneath grass (assuming there's still any alive underneath ?) ?

Thanks,
Bob

On Sun, 18 Apr 2010 14:06:50 -0400, Bob wrote:

Hello,

Live in New England, outside of Boston.

Boy, what a great season for Moss.
Never had so much.

What's a good way of ridding a grass lawn of Moss without killing any
underneath grass (assuming there's still any alive underneath ?) ?

Lime.

On Sun, 18 Apr 2010 14:06:50 -0400, Bob wrote:

Hello,

Live in New England, outside of Boston.

Boy, what a great season for Moss.
Never had so much.

What's a good way of ridding a grass lawn of Moss without killing any
underneath grass (assuming there's still any alive underneath ?) ?

Thanks,
Bob


Moss likes shade, moisture and acidic soil. Test your soil pH.

In article ,
brooklyn1 wrote:

On Sun, 18 Apr 2010 14:06:50 -0400, Bob wrote:

Hello,

Live in New England, outside of Boston.

Boy, what a great season for Moss.
Never had so much.

What's a good way of ridding a grass lawn of Moss without killing any
underneath grass (assuming there's still any alive underneath ?) ?

Lime.

Confirmed. Quick acting hot (quick) followed with the larger grained
after a soil pH test. There is a name for the slow acting but I forget.

Acid is moss's friend spread powered milk about if you like it (Acid).
We have more on just about everything in the last few years. Driveway
, patio, pond concrete and house roof.

I'm almost afraid to stand still )

--
Bill Garden in shade zone 5 S Jersey USA

On Apr 18, 2:06*pm, Bob wrote:
Hello,

Live in New England, outside of Boston.

Boy, what a great season for Moss.
Never had so much.

What's a good way of ridding a grass lawn of Moss without killing any
underneath grass (assuming there's still any alive underneath ?) ?

Thanks,
Bob

You should check this website out

http://www.landscape-america.com/pro...eeds/moss.html

Bill who putters wrote:
In article ,
brooklyn1 wrote:

On Sun, 18 Apr 2010 14:06:50 -0400, Bob wrote:

Hello,

Live in New England, outside of Boston.

Boy, what a great season for Moss.
Never had so much.

What's a good way of ridding a grass lawn of Moss without killing
any underneath grass (assuming there's still any alive underneath
?) ?

Lime.

Confirmed. Quick acting hot (quick) followed with the larger grained
after a soil pH test. There is a name for the slow acting but I
forget.


Quick lime (AKA hot lime, calcium oxide) is quite caustic, it will burn your
eyes and skin and produces heat in contact with water forming calcium
hydroxide. Throw some into water and it will spit at you. It will damage
just about any plant not just moss and change the pH of your soil quickly
thus overturning the balance of microorganisms. Depending on how much you
put on you may harm much more than moss, you could have your very own
scorched earth policy.

Slaked lime (AKA builders lime, calcium hydroxide) is much less caustic but
will still change pH quickly. If you want fast results you can take the
risk but if you overdose you will be in trouble.

I wouldn't apply any kind of lime without a pH test first. Part of the
problem is that it is hard to know the correct rate of application because
the rate depends on both the pH and the type of soil that you have. Clay
soils take much more lime to change the pH by one unit than sand soils. If
somebody says apply X amount per area without knowing your pH and soil it is
entierly hit and miss. So the safest way is to do it progressively with
small applications and monitor the pH as you go.

If you want to make your soil less acid without the risk of shocking the
microbes or overdosing do it slowly using garden lime (AKA limestone,
calcium carbonate) or dolomite (calcium magnesium carbonate).

Add chemicals to you soil in haste and repent at leisure.


David

On Mon, 19 Apr 2010 08:47:11 +1000, "David Hare-Scott"
wrote:

Bill who putters wrote:
In article ,
brooklyn1 wrote:

On Sun, 18 Apr 2010 14:06:50 -0400, Bob wrote:

Hello,

Live in New England, outside of Boston.

Boy, what a great season for Moss.
Never had so much.

What's a good way of ridding a grass lawn of Moss without killing
any underneath grass (assuming there's still any alive underneath
?) ?

Lime.

Confirmed. Quick acting hot (quick) followed with the larger grained
after a soil pH test. There is a name for the slow acting but I
forget.


Quick lime (AKA hot lime, calcium oxide) is quite caustic, it will burn your
eyes and skin and produces heat in contact with water forming calcium
hydroxide. Throw some into water and it will spit at you. It will damage
just about any plant not just moss and change the pH of your soil quickly
thus overturning the balance of microorganisms. Depending on how much you
put on you may harm much more than moss, you could have your very own
scorched earth policy.

Slaked lime (AKA builders lime, calcium hydroxide) is much less caustic but
will still change pH quickly. If you want fast results you can take the
risk but if you overdose you will be in trouble.

I wouldn't apply any kind of lime without a pH test first. Part of the
problem is that it is hard to know the correct rate of application because
the rate depends on both the pH and the type of soil that you have. Clay
soils take much more lime to change the pH by one unit than sand soils. If
somebody says apply X amount per area without knowing your pH and soil it is
entierly hit and miss. So the safest way is to do it progressively with
small applications and monitor the pH as you go.

If you want to make your soil less acid without the risk of shocking the
microbes or overdosing do it slowly using garden lime (AKA limestone,
calcium carbonate) or dolomite (calcium magnesium carbonate).

Add chemicals to you soil in haste and repent at leisure.


Any brand of granulated lime from a garden center works fine, apply
with a spreader (rate on bag), granulated lime is time release.
Naturally one should check pH but if there's excessive moss growing
you can bet your bippee the soil is too acid for lawn grass.

I agree with Brooklyn on this one. My Dad, a Prof of Agronomy, soil
chemistry, told my hubby that
a long timeago about our moss. He said Moss can't grow unless the Ph
is right. Lime, lime, lime.
Nan in DE

"Bob" wrote in message
...
Hello,

Live in New England, outside of Boston.

Boy, what a great season for Moss.
Never had so much.

What's a good way of ridding a grass lawn of Moss without killing any
underneath grass (assuming there's still any alive underneath ?) ?

Moss frequently grows in compacted soil with low oxygen levels. You could
try aerating the soil with a garden fork.

Blondie wrote:
On Apr 18, 2:06 pm, Bob wrote:
Hello,

Live in New England, outside of Boston.

Boy, what a great season for Moss.
Never had so much.

What's a good way of ridding a grass lawn of Moss without killing any
underneath grass (assuming there's still any alive underneath ?) ?

Thanks,
Bob

You should check this website out

http://www.landscape-america.com/pro...eeds/moss.html

That URL doesn't seem to display the data it suggests it will.

On Apr 19, 4:12*am, brooklyn1 wrote:
On Mon, 19 Apr 2010 08:47:11 +1000, "David Hare-Scott"





wrote:
Bill who putters wrote:
In article ,
brooklyn1 wrote:

On Sun, 18 Apr 2010 14:06:50 -0400, Bob wrote:

Hello,

Live in New England, outside of Boston.

Boy, what a great season for Moss.
Never had so much.

What's a good way of ridding a grass lawn of Moss without killing
any underneath grass (assuming there's still any alive underneath
?) ?

Lime.

Confirmed. *Quick acting hot (quick) *followed with the larger grained
after a soil pH test. *There is a name for the slow acting but I
forget.

Quick lime (AKA hot lime, calcium oxide) is quite caustic, it will burn your
eyes and skin and produces heat in contact with water forming calcium
hydroxide. *Throw some into water and it will spit at you. *It will damage
just about any plant not just moss and change the pH of your soil quickly
thus overturning the balance of microorganisms. *Depending on how much you
put on you may harm much more than moss, you could have your very own
scorched earth policy.

Slaked lime (AKA builders lime, calcium hydroxide) is much less caustic but
will still change pH quickly. *If you want fast results you can take the
risk but if you overdose you will be in trouble.

I wouldn't apply any kind of lime without a pH test first. *Part of the
problem is that it is hard to know the correct rate of application because
the rate depends on both the pH and the type of soil that you have. *Clay
soils take much more lime to change the pH by one unit than sand soils. If
somebody says apply X amount per area without knowing your pH and soil it is
entierly hit and miss. *So the safest way is to do it progressively with
small applications and monitor the pH as you go.

If you want to make your soil less acid without the risk of shocking the
microbes or overdosing do it slowly using garden lime (AKA limestone,
calcium carbonate) or dolomite (calcium magnesium carbonate).

Add chemicals to you soil in haste and repent at leisure.

Any brand of granulated lime from a garden center works fine, apply
with a spreader (rate on bag), granulated lime is time release.
Naturally one should check pH but if there's excessive moss growing
you can bet your bippee the soil is too acid for lawn grass.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -
I am an Organic Gardener, treating plants with Herbs and Spices, no
chemicals required. visit my site http://groups.google.com/group/pakgardenclub-

I am online to meet your requirements
shah

On Apr 19, 6:49*pm, Nanzi wrote:
I agree with Brooklyn on this one. My Dad, a Prof of Agronomy, soil
chemistry, told my hubby that
a long timeago about our moss. He said Moss can't grow unless the Ph
is right. Lime, lime, lime.
Nan in DE

You are right,,Why we do not make plants immune to pest ?

I am an Organic Gardener, treating plants with Herbs and Spices, no
chemicals required. visit my site http://groups.google.com/group/pakgardenclub-

I am online to meet your requirements
shah

In article
,
shahwin wrote:

On Apr 19, 4:12*am, brooklyn1 wrote:
On Mon, 19 Apr 2010 08:47:11 +1000, "David Hare-Scott"





wrote:
Bill who putters wrote:
In article ,
brooklyn1 wrote:

On Sun, 18 Apr 2010 14:06:50 -0400, Bob wrote:

Hello,

Live in New England, outside of Boston.

Boy, what a great season for Moss.
Never had so much.

What's a good way of ridding a grass lawn of Moss without killing
any underneath grass (assuming there's still any alive underneath
?) ?

Lime.

Confirmed. *Quick acting hot (quick) *followed with the larger grained
after a soil pH test. *There is a name for the slow acting but I
forget.

Quick lime (AKA hot lime, calcium oxide) is quite caustic, it will burn
your
eyes and skin and produces heat in contact with water forming calcium
hydroxide. *Throw some into water and it will spit at you. *It will damage
just about any plant not just moss and change the pH of your soil quickly
thus overturning the balance of microorganisms. *Depending on how much you
put on you may harm much more than moss, you could have your very own
scorched earth policy.

Slaked lime (AKA builders lime, calcium hydroxide) is much less caustic
but
will still change pH quickly. *If you want fast results you can take the
risk but if you overdose you will be in trouble.

I wouldn't apply any kind of lime without a pH test first. *Part of the
problem is that it is hard to know the correct rate of application because
the rate depends on both the pH and the type of soil that you have. *Clay
soils take much more lime to change the pH by one unit than sand soils. If
somebody says apply X amount per area without knowing your pH and soil it
is
entierly hit and miss. *So the safest way is to do it progressively with
small applications and monitor the pH as you go.

If you want to make your soil less acid without the risk of shocking the
microbes or overdosing do it slowly using garden lime (AKA limestone,
calcium carbonate) or dolomite (calcium magnesium carbonate).

Add chemicals to you soil in haste and repent at leisure.

Any brand of granulated lime from a garden center works fine, apply
with a spreader (rate on bag), granulated lime is time release.
Naturally one should check pH but if there's excessive moss growing
you can bet your bippee the soil is too acid for lawn grass.- Hide quoted
text -

- Show quoted text -
I am an Organic Gardener, treating plants with Herbs and Spices, no
chemicals required. visit my site
http://groups.google.com/group/pakgardenclub-

I am online to meet your requirements
shah

And you do it for "free" like we do, right?
Rec.gardens, and rec.gardens.edible are on line to answer your questions
for free. However, if you have a reeeeally dumb, or stupid question, you
may want to give $hah a try.
--
- Billy
"Fascism should more properly be called corporatism because it is the
merger of state and corporate power." - Benito Mussolini.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Arn3lF5XSUg
http://www.thirdworldtraveler.com/Zinn/HZinn_page.html

shahwin wrote:
On Apr 19, 6:49 pm, Nanzi wrote:
I agree with Brooklyn on this one. My Dad, a Prof of Agronomy, soil
chemistry, told my hubby that
a long timeago about our moss. He said Moss can't grow unless the Ph
is right. Lime, lime, lime.
Nan in DE

You are right,,Why we do not make plants immune to pest ?


I fail to see what your reply has to do with the issue nor how it might be
achieved. Would you care to explain?

David

On Sun, 18 Apr 2010 14:06:50 -0400, Bob
wrote:
Hello,

Live in New England, outside of Boston.

Boy, what a great season for Moss.
Never had so much.

What's a good way of ridding a grass lawn of Moss without killing any
underneath grass (assuming there's still any alive underneath ?) ?


Can you get lawn sand in New England?

Or even better, MO Bacter. It kills the moss and then eats it.

Steven
--
You're a great friend, but if the zombies chase us I'm tripping you.

www.baldman.org.uk