Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
 

I have a vacation property in the mountains, of about six acres, two acres
of which are cleared and developed. I have areas away from the house area
in which I need water access for watering plants, flowers, etc. Ideally, I
would love to have about three faucets in areas that are up to about 400
feet away from the house.

I can purchase 500 to 600 feet of hoses, and with the use of "T's" add
several branches (hoses) to allow me to water in several selected areas.
But, if I use high quality hoses, this would be pretty expensive, and it all
seems so "temporary."

I am wondering if it would be more economical to run a main line of about
500 feet, using some sort of plastic pipe (cannot remember the name of the
current most common), and then run my hose branches from that ? (The main
line would have to lay on the ground, through the woods). Whatever I use,
I need to be able to drain the line during winters, but I suppose I could
get fittings for this equipped with a drain screw or valve or something.

Any ideas of what I should look for, or use ? Any general ideas of how to
accomplish what I am trying to do ?

thanks !!

James

Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
 

On 6/29/2011 7:30 PM, James Nipper wrote:
I have a vacation property in the mountains, of about six acres, two acres
of which are cleared and developed. I have areas away from the house area
in which I need water access for watering plants, flowers, etc. Ideally, I
would love to have about three faucets in areas that are up to about 400
feet away from the house.

I can purchase 500 to 600 feet of hoses, and with the use of "T's" add
several branches (hoses) to allow me to water in several selected areas.
But, if I use high quality hoses, this would be pretty expensive, and it all
seems so "temporary."

I am wondering if it would be more economical to run a main line of about
500 feet, using some sort of plastic pipe (cannot remember the name of the
current most common), and then run my hose branches from that ? (The main
line would have to lay on the ground, through the woods). Whatever I use,
I need to be able to drain the line during winters, but I suppose I could
get fittings for this equipped with a drain screw or valve or something.

Any ideas of what I should look for, or use ? Any general ideas of how to
accomplish what I am trying to do ?

thanks !!

James


Poly pipe is great for underground lines. It doesn't lay flat very well
so I'm not sure how it would work above ground. Here's a link:
http://www.aquascience.net/pipe/index.cfm?id=552

Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
 

RBM wrote:
On 6/29/2011 7:30 PM, James Nipper wrote:
I have a vacation property in the mountains, of about six acres, two acres
of which are cleared and developed. I have areas away from the house area
in which I need water access for watering plants, flowers, etc. Ideally, I
would love to have about three faucets in areas that are up to about 400
feet away from the house.

I can purchase 500 to 600 feet of hoses, and with the use of "T's" add
several branches (hoses) to allow me to water in several selected areas.
But, if I use high quality hoses, this would be pretty expensive, and it all
seems so "temporary."

I am wondering if it would be more economical to run a main line of about
500 feet, using some sort of plastic pipe (cannot remember the name of the
current most common), and then run my hose branches from that ? (The main
line would have to lay on the ground, through the woods). Whatever I use,
I need to be able to drain the line during winters, but I suppose I could
get fittings for this equipped with a drain screw or valve or something.

Any ideas of what I should look for, or use ? Any general ideas of how to
accomplish what I am trying to do ?

thanks !!

James


Poly pipe is great for underground lines. It doesn't lay flat very well
so I'm not sure how it would work above ground. Here's a link:
http://www.aquascience.net/pipe/index.cfm?id=552

A small air compressor can blow the lines clear of water for the winter.
Fifteen pounds of pressure should do the job. I use a quick release adapter
for the compressor and the adapter attached to a short water hose. Just
make sure the end of the line is open for drainage. I just use the
underground lines just for watering the plants around my home, not in
distant areas.

The biggest problem you are going to have is water pressure at the end of
500 feet depending on the pressure you already have. An extra water tank
could be used that is under greater pressure than the household pressure
could solve that problem if needed, but not a cheap option. Or slowly fill
up a cistern at the end of the line and use pump to water the area needed.

Again depending on your home water pressure, those extra methods may not be
needed.

--
Enjoy Life... Nad R (Garden in zone 5a Michigan)

Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
 

RBM wrote:
On 6/29/2011 7:30 PM, James Nipper wrote:
I have a vacation property in the mountains, of about six acres, two
acres of which are cleared and developed. I have areas away
from the house area in which I need water access for watering
plants, flowers, etc. Ideally, I would love to have about three
faucets in areas that are up to about 400 feet away from the house.

I can purchase 500 to 600 feet of hoses, and with the use of "T's" add
several branches (hoses) to allow me to water in several
selected areas. But, if I use high quality hoses, this would be
pretty expensive, and it all seems so "temporary."

I am wondering if it would be more economical to run a main line of
about 500 feet, using some sort of plastic pipe (cannot remember the
name of the current most common), and then run my hose branches from
that ? (The main line would have to lay on the ground, through the
woods). Whatever I use, I need to be able to drain the line
during winters, but I suppose I could get fittings for this equipped
with a drain screw or valve or something. Any ideas of what I should look
for, or use ? Any general ideas of
how to accomplish what I am trying to do ?

thanks !!

James


Poly pipe is great for underground lines. It doesn't lay flat very
well so I'm not sure how it would work above ground. Here's a link:
http://www.aquascience.net/pipe/index.cfm?id=552

You don't say where this water is coming from. Is it town water, well
water, what?

If you are laying pipe then poly pipe is what you need, it will be the
cheapest choice for such a distance. All the fittings you would ever want
are available. It can be laid underground if the ground isn't too rocky.
The quickest method is with a ripper/feeder on a tractor. This is a blade
that cuts a slit trench that has a metal tube behind it, you feed the poly
down the tube into the slit as the tractor moves at walking pace, then you
tred the slit down and it's done.

OTOH it can also be laid along fences on top of the ground. If going to
this much trouble don't do it in 12mm (1/2 inch pipe) but somewhere around
32mm (1 1/4 ") to 40mm (1 1/2 "). This solution depends on what is pumping
the water and how much rise or fall there is along the length. The joints
in polypipe are easily undone to allow draining by gravity, ground slope
permitting.

A quite different solution: what about saving water adjacent to the area
that you want to water? I am thinking of a tank collecting water from the
roof of an outbuilding or a small dam/pond in a gully.

David

Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
 

On 6/29/2011 7:30 PM, James Nipper wrote:
I have a vacation property in the mountains, of about six acres, two
acres of which are cleared and developed. I have areas away
from the house area in which I need water access for watering
plants, flowers, etc. Ideally, I would love to have about three
faucets in areas that are up to about 400 feet away from the house.

I can purchase 500 to 600 feet of hoses, and with the use of "T's" add
several branches (hoses) to allow me to water in several
selected areas. But, if I use high quality hoses, this would be
pretty expensive, and it all seems so "temporary."

I am wondering if it would be more economical to run a main line of
about 500 feet, using some sort of plastic pipe (cannot remember the
name of the current most common), and then run my hose branches from
that ? (The main line would have to lay on the ground, through the
woods). Whatever I use, I need to be able to drain the line
during winters, but I suppose I could get fittings for this equipped
with a drain screw or valve or something. Any ideas of what I should look
for, or use ? Any general ideas of
how to accomplish what I am trying to do ?

It would help to know what water volume, how often, and what climate.
If you'e on a well your system may not be capable of raising water
very high so it would help to know your topography. Six acres is not
very much area, if essentially square then the distance from center to
the perimeter is not very far. If there is a centrally located high
point you might consider erecting a tank, either on the ground or on a
tower... fill the tank with a pump and let gravity work with hose(s)
to reach your various watering points. Personally for watering a few
plants here and there I'd fit a wagon with a tank and with a tractor
tow the water wagon to whatever needs watering... that is exactly how
I water my plants... if you ever tried to drag a couple of hundred
feet of hose, especially filled with water you'd soon give that up.
And attempting to bury pipe in forested/raw land without heavy
excavating equipment is practically impossible.

Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
 

On 6/29/11 6:30 PM, James Nipper wrote:
I have a vacation property in the mountains, of about six acres, two acres
of which are cleared and developed. I have areas away from the house area
in which I need water access for watering plants, flowers, etc. Ideally, I
would love to have about three faucets in areas that are up to about 400
feet away from the house.

I can purchase 500 to 600 feet of hoses, and with the use of "T's" add
several branches (hoses) to allow me to water in several selected areas.
But, if I use high quality hoses, this would be pretty expensive, and it all
seems so "temporary."

I am wondering if it would be more economical to run a main line of about
500 feet, using some sort of plastic pipe (cannot remember the name of the
current most common), and then run my hose branches from that ? (The main
line would have to lay on the ground, through the woods). Whatever I use,
I need to be able to drain the line during winters, but I suppose I could
get fittings for this equipped with a drain screw or valve or something.

Any ideas of what I should look for, or use ? Any general ideas of how to
accomplish what I am trying to do ?

thanks !!

James



I wonder if you could find some used hand move sprinkler line.
The stuff I'm thinking of is 4" aluminum and has a coupler for a
sprinkler at each joint. It usually came in 30' or 40' sections.
You could just pull it apart to drain it or put a valve at a joint
now and then.
One drawback might be its temptation to thieves.

Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
 

Brooklyn1 Gravesend1 wrote:
It would help to know what water volume, how often, and what climate.
If you'e on a well your system may not be capable of raising water
very high so it would help to know your topography. Six acres is not
very much area, if essentially square then the distance from center to
the perimeter is not very far. If there is a centrally located high
point you might consider erecting a tank, either on the ground or on a
tower... fill the tank with a pump and let gravity work with hose(s)
to reach your various watering points. Personally for watering a few
plants here and there I'd fit a wagon with a tank and with a tractor
tow the water wagon to whatever needs watering... that is exactly how
I water my plants... if you ever tried to drag a couple of hundred
feet of hose, especially filled with water you'd soon give that up.
And attempting to bury pipe in forested/raw land without heavy
excavating equipment is practically impossible.

I have done the wagon thing, it is a pain in the... Takes time to fill them
up and time to drain it. I however typically use the lengthy hose. I have
four one hundred foot lite weight hoses with quick connectors. I mean do
not get the heavy duty hoses because they are heavy. I can set up the hoses
and take them down in less than thirty minutes. I often use a soaker hose
or soaker wand at the receiving end because pressure is diminished for
spraying.

One thing about lite weight hoses. Do not leave the hose set up in the hot
sun with the pressure on and water not flowing. The water will heat up and
bust the hose on a hot day. But lite weight hoses are easy to carry or put
in a garden wagon.

One can rent a walk behind "Ditch Witch" for digging trenches. Four hundred
feet would take eight hours depending on terrain. Some cheap "Ditch
Witches" can beat you up at the end of the day, good models will not.

--
Enjoy Life... Nad R (Garden in zone 5a Michigan)

Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
 

"James Nipper" wrote in message
net...
I have a vacation property in the mountains, of about six acres, two acres
of which are cleared and developed. I have areas away from the house area
in which I need water access for watering plants, flowers, etc. Ideally, I
would love to have about three faucets in areas that are up to about 400
feet away from the house.

I can purchase 500 to 600 feet of hoses, and with the use of "T's" add
several branches (hoses) to allow me to water in several selected areas.
But, if I use high quality hoses, this would be pretty expensive, and it
all seems so "temporary."

I am wondering if it would be more economical to run a main line of about
500 feet, using some sort of plastic pipe (cannot remember the name of the
current most common), and then run my hose branches from that ? (The main
line would have to lay on the ground, through the woods). Whatever I
use, I need to be able to drain the line during winters, but I suppose I
could get fittings for this equipped with a drain screw or valve or
something.

Any ideas of what I should look for, or use ? Any general ideas of how
to accomplish what I am trying to do ?

I don't know what country you're in but I use polypipe to take water all
over the place and since a lot of it has now been in place for up to 20
years, I don't consider it to be temporary.

I use 2 inch, 1 inch and three quarter inch. Very little of this is laid
underground except for perhaps 20 ft of the 2 inch stuff that forms a main
artery. Some of the 1 inch and three quarters of an inch stuff has become
covered over the eyars as drebris drops on top of it. I have a main 2 inch
line coming from our big tank (cistern in USian) and then I run one inch and
3/4 inch withint the veg garden and in the orchard and down to the chook pen
and also from another 2 inch pipe down at the pond at the bottom of the
garden.

Lay it out on a hot summers day when the sun helps it to lie out better and
carry some hot water to do all the connections and it's an easy job. One
hint would be that if you manage to find little sprinkler heads that you
like, buy a truck load. I am reduced to 2 heads of my favourites.

Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
 

"Dean Hoffman" wrote in message
...
On 6/29/11 6:30 PM, James Nipper wrote:
I have a vacation property in the mountains, of about six acres, two
acres
of which are cleared and developed. I have areas away from the house
area
in which I need water access for watering plants, flowers, etc. Ideally,
I
would love to have about three faucets in areas that are up to about 400
feet away from the house.

I can purchase 500 to 600 feet of hoses, and with the use of "T's" add
several branches (hoses) to allow me to water in several selected areas.
But, if I use high quality hoses, this would be pretty expensive, and it
all
seems so "temporary."

I am wondering if it would be more economical to run a main line of about
500 feet, using some sort of plastic pipe (cannot remember the name of
the
current most common), and then run my hose branches from that ? (The
main
line would have to lay on the ground, through the woods). Whatever I
use,
I need to be able to drain the line during winters, but I suppose I could
get fittings for this equipped with a drain screw or valve or something.

Any ideas of what I should look for, or use ? Any general ideas of how
to
accomplish what I am trying to do ?

thanks !!

James



I wonder if you could find some used hand move sprinkler line. The
stuff I'm thinking of is 4" aluminum and has a coupler for a sprinkler at
each joint. It usually came in 30' or 40' sections.
You could just pull it apart to drain it or put a valve at a joint
now and then.
One drawback might be its temptation to thieves.

Good Lord. That stuff would now have antique value wouldn't it Dean?

Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
 

"James Nipper" wrote in message
net...
I have a vacation property in the mountains, of about six acres, two
acres of which are cleared and developed. I have areas away from the
house area in which I need water access for watering plants, flowers,
etc. Ideally, I would love to have about three faucets in areas that
are up to about 400 feet away from the house.

I can purchase 500 to 600 feet of hoses, and with the use of "T's"
add several branches (hoses) to allow me to water in several
selected areas. But, if I use high quality hoses, this would be
pretty expensive, and it all seems so "temporary."

I am wondering if it would be more economical to run a main line of
about 500 feet, using some sort of plastic pipe (cannot remember the
name of the current most common), and then run my hose branches from
that ? (The main line would have to lay on the ground, through the
woods). Whatever I use, I need to be able to drain the line
during winters, but I suppose I could get fittings for this equipped
with a drain screw or valve or something.

Any ideas of what I should look for, or use ? Any general ideas of
how to accomplish what I am trying to do ?



Go to your local hardware store, find an old guy, then tell him what
you want to do. He can show you what is available there in the store
and give you suggestions.

Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
 

First thing comes to mind, is sunlight and the UV rays. So,
what you use should be UV resistant.

White PVC tubing might work for a while. The cost of
fittings might add up. Typically sold in 10 foot lengths,
and the tubing is relatively rigid.

The new "Pex" stuff they sell for indoor water tubing may
work, but not sure how UV resistant it is.

They also sell some grey tubing for electrical conduit,
which might be more UV resistant, but not sure it's used for
outdoor water.

As to winter, may be able to to blow it out with compressed
air, and leave it dry.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"James Nipper" wrote in
message
net...
I have a vacation property in the mountains, of about six
acres, two acres
of which are cleared and developed. I have areas away from
the house area
in which I need water access for watering plants, flowers,
etc. Ideally, I
would love to have about three faucets in areas that are up
to about 400
feet away from the house.

I can purchase 500 to 600 feet of hoses, and with the use of
"T's" add
several branches (hoses) to allow me to water in several
selected areas.
But, if I use high quality hoses, this would be pretty
expensive, and it all
seems so "temporary."

I am wondering if it would be more economical to run a main
line of about
500 feet, using some sort of plastic pipe (cannot remember
the name of the
current most common), and then run my hose branches from
that ? (The main
line would have to lay on the ground, through the woods).
Whatever I use,
I need to be able to drain the line during winters, but I
suppose I could
get fittings for this equipped with a drain screw or valve
or something.

Any ideas of what I should look for, or use ? Any general
ideas of how to
accomplish what I am trying to do ?

thanks !!

James

Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
 

If you have a garden tractor and trailer of some kind. A 12
volt "spot sprayer" from Harbor Freight may make more sense
than running water tubing from the house.
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt...ayer-9583.html
Fill it at the house, drive it out in the trailer, and spray
with the garden tractor motor running to supply power.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"James Nipper" wrote in
message
net...
I have a vacation property in the mountains, of about six
acres, two acres
of which are cleared and developed. I have areas away from
the house area
in which I need water access for watering plants, flowers,
etc. Ideally, I
would love to have about three faucets in areas that are up
to about 400
feet away from the house.

Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
 

80 cents a foot? That's more pricey than garden hose?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"RBM" wrote in message
...

Poly pipe is great for underground lines. It doesn't lay
flat very well
so I'm not sure how it would work above ground. Here's a
link:
http://www.aquascience.net/pipe/index.cfm?id=552

Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
 

On 6/29/2011 6:30 PM, James Nipper wrote:
I have a vacation property in the mountains, of about six acres, two acres
of which are cleared and developed. I have areas away from the house area
in which I need water access for watering plants, flowers, etc. Ideally, I
would love to have about three faucets in areas that are up to about 400
feet away from the house.

I can purchase 500 to 600 feet of hoses, and with the use of "T's" add
several branches (hoses) to allow me to water in several selected areas.
But, if I use high quality hoses, this would be pretty expensive, and it all
seems so "temporary."

I am wondering if it would be more economical to run a main line of about
500 feet, using some sort of plastic pipe (cannot remember the name of the
current most common), and then run my hose branches from that ? (The main
line would have to lay on the ground, through the woods). Whatever I use,
I need to be able to drain the line during winters, but I suppose I could
get fittings for this equipped with a drain screw or valve or something.

Any ideas of what I should look for, or use ? Any general ideas of how to
accomplish what I am trying to do ?

thanks !!

James



you could use PEX or PVC, but both are weakened by long term exposure to
UV (sun) So you'd have to paint them with some light colored exterior
latex after laying them out. I'd suspect they'd give you 5 or 6 years
service without paint. (my experience) then they start to get brittle.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
 

Stormin Mormon wrote:
80 cents a foot? That's more pricey than garden hose?

A 500 foot garden hose isn't going to pass much water.

Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
 

Stormin Mormon wrote:
First thing comes to mind, is sunlight and the UV rays. So,
what you use should be UV resistant.

White PVC tubing might work for a while. The cost of
fittings might add up. Typically sold in 10 foot lengths,
and the tubing is relatively rigid.

White PVC will be weakened by UV. Works great buried.


The new "Pex" stuff they sell for indoor water tubing may
work, but not sure how UV resistant it is.

Most Pex is easily damaged by UV.


They also sell some grey tubing for electrical conduit,
which might be more UV resistant, but not sure it's used for
outdoor water.

It's not rated for that.

Which brings us back to black poly pipe.


As to winter, may be able to to blow it out with compressed
air, and leave it dry.

OR install drain valves in the low spots.

Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
 

"FarmI" ask@itshall be given wrote in message
u...
"James Nipper" wrote in message
net...
I have a vacation property in the mountains, of about six acres, two
acres of which are cleared and developed. I have areas away from the
house area in which I need water access for watering plants, flowers, etc.
Ideally, I would love to have about three faucets in areas that are up to
about 400 feet away from the house.

I can purchase 500 to 600 feet of hoses, and with the use of "T's" add
several branches (hoses) to allow me to water in several selected areas.
But, if I use high quality hoses, this would be pretty expensive, and it
all seems so "temporary."

I am wondering if it would be more economical to run a main line of about
500 feet, using some sort of plastic pipe (cannot remember the name of
the current most common), and then run my hose branches from that ? (The
main line would have to lay on the ground, through the woods).
Whatever I use, I need to be able to drain the line during winters, but I
suppose I could get fittings for this equipped with a drain screw or
valve or something.

Any ideas of what I should look for, or use ? Any general ideas of how
to accomplish what I am trying to do ?

I don't know what country you're in but I use polypipe to take water all
over the place and since a lot of it has now been in place for up to 20
years, I don't consider it to be temporary.

I use 2 inch, 1 inch and three quarter inch. Very little of this is laid
underground except for perhaps 20 ft of the 2 inch stuff that forms a main
artery. Some of the 1 inch and three quarters of an inch stuff has become
covered over the eyars as drebris drops on top of it. I have a main 2
inch line coming from our big tank (cistern in USian) and then I run one
inch and 3/4 inch withint the veg garden and in the orchard and down to
the chook pen and also from another 2 inch pipe down at the pond at the
bottom of the garden.

Lay it out on a hot summers day when the sun helps it to lie out better
and carry some hot water to do all the connections and it's an easy job.
One hint would be that if you manage to find little sprinkler heads that
you like, buy a truck load. I am reduced to 2 heads of my favourites.

Agree with the above. For what he wants to do, 1" poly pipe should work.
It's readily available at HD, Lowes, plumbing supply, online, etc. and
reasonably priced.

Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
 

On Thu, 30 Jun 2011 07:22:08 -0700, "Bob F"
wrote:

Stormin Mormon wrote:
80 cents a foot? That's more pricey than garden hose?

A 500 foot garden hose isn't going to pass much water.

Why not? Hose length has no bearing on water volume, only diameter
matters.

Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
 

On Thu, 30 Jun 2011 07:53:20 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

If you have a garden tractor and trailer of some kind. A 12
volt "spot sprayer" from Harbor Freight may make more sense
than running water tubing from the house.
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt...ayer-9583.html
Fill it at the house, drive it out in the trailer, and spray
with the garden tractor motor running to supply power.

That's what I do during dry spells, hitch my Agra-Fab cart to a
tractor and haul water in a poly tank or in a couple dozen 5 gallon
contractor buckets filled about 3/4s... only takes about a minute to
fill each bucket if I remove the nozzle from my 5/8" garden hose. I
rarely use the poly tank, the buckets are easier as I can more easily
guage how much water each plant gets (1 bucket is usually sufficient).
I water newly planted saplings and shrubs during dry spells, maybe 2-3
times a season as most years there's plenty of rain. I think it's
actually mentally retarded to build an irrigation system as the OP,
etal indicate unless it's a fairly arid clime or for a plant nursery
business or someone has more dollars than brain cells. Plastic
buckets are cheap, usually free... just got three more buckets today
taht's be ready to go once I empty the cat litter... I have more than
I can count and they nest so take very little room. If you drill a
3/16" hole on the side near the bottom of the bucket it will drip
water for a plant for several hours.

Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
 

"James Nipper" wrote in message
net...
I have a vacation property in the mountains, of about six acres, two
acres of which are cleared and developed. I have areas away from the
house area in which I need water access for watering plants, flowers,
etc. Ideally, I would love to have about three faucets in areas that are
up to about 400 feet away from the house.

I can purchase 500 to 600 feet of hoses, and with the use of "T's"
add several branches (hoses) to allow me to water in several selected
areas. But, if I use high quality hoses, this would be pretty expensive,
and it all seems so "temporary."

I am wondering if it would be more economical to run a main line of
about 500 feet, using some sort of plastic pipe (cannot remember the
name of the current most common), and then run my hose branches from
that ? (The main line would have to lay on the ground, through the
woods). Whatever I use, I need to be able to drain the line during
winters, but I suppose I could get fittings for this equipped with a
drain screw or valve or something.

Any ideas of what I should look for, or use ? Any general ideas of how
to accomplish what I am trying to do ?



I agree that poly pipe is the least expensive course of action. 500 foot of
3/4" is only about $65 at this site:
http://www.submatic.com/catalog/poly-flex-hose.html

Pex would cost a lot more. Your local prices might vary a bit but should
still be well under a hundred.

I don't have a clue as to the UV effect on poly pipe. Buried it lasts for a
very long time. A water line I installed in 1969 is still in use today.


--
Colbyt
Please come visit http://www.househomerepair.com

Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
 

Brooklyn1 wrote:
On Thu, 30 Jun 2011 07:22:08 -0700, "Bob F"
wrote:

Stormin Mormon wrote:
80 cents a foot? That's more pricey than garden hose?

A 500 foot garden hose isn't going to pass much water.

Why not? Hose length has no bearing on water volume, only diameter
matters.

Is that your final answer?

Wrong again.

Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
 

Yeah, and that also describes my prostate.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Bob F" wrote in message
...
Stormin Mormon wrote:
80 cents a foot? That's more pricey than garden hose?

A 500 foot garden hose isn't going to pass much water.

Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
 

When I was in the fire service, we learned that both length
and diameter matters. Smaller hose increases pressure drop,
usually measured in psi drop per 100 feet of length.

500 foot hose has 5 times the pressure drop of 100 foot
hose. In this case, both size matters, and length matters.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Brooklyn1" Gravesend1 wrote in message
...


A 500 foot garden hose isn't going to pass much water.

Why not? Hose length has no bearing on water volume, only
diameter
matters.

Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
 

It's gentler, to supply some reason, rather than flat
contradiction.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Bob F" wrote in message
...

A 500 foot garden hose isn't going to pass much water.

Why not? Hose length has no bearing on water volume, only
diameter
matters.

Is that your final answer?

Wrong again.

Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
 

Brooklyn1 wrote:
On Thu, 30 Jun 2011 07:22:08 -0700, "Bob F"
wrote:

Stormin Mormon wrote:
80 cents a foot? That's more pricey than garden hose?

A 500 foot garden hose isn't going to pass much water.

Why not? Hose length has no bearing on water volume, only diameter
matters.


A warning to all, Brooklyn1 has a habit of making confident pronouncements
that are wrong.

The friction and hence head loss depends on both the length and diameter
(and the number of fittings and joins and the change in level).
Particularly in a thin pipe a long run (say 500ft) will have greater head
loss than a short one (say 50ft) using the same source. The difference is
less noticeable on large diameter pipe.

If you want to do the sums yourself see he

http://www.polypipe.com.au/images/PP...m%20design.pdf

David

Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
 

A 500 foot garden hose isn't going to pass much water.

Why not? Hose length has no bearing on water volume, only
diameter
matters.

Is that your final answer?

Wrong again.

Stormin Mormon wrote:
It's gentler, to supply some reason, rather than flat
contradiction.




Do you really need a reason? Or is it perfectly obvious to you?

If you take a mile of hose, or one 50 foot length, what percentage of the single
hose water will get through the mile length, with the same high volume source
and hose diameter? 100%? You don't really think so, do you?

I know from my experience that two hoses in series deliver significantly less
water than one. Now multiply that effect for a 500 foot hose.

For tapping beer from kegs, they even use the line length to drop the pressure
to avoid foaming. 3/16" beer line produces 2 psi drop per foot at the flow of a
normal tap.

Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
 

On Thu, 30 Jun 2011 18:05:26 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

When I was in the fire service, we learned that both length
and diameter matters. Smaller hose increases pressure drop,
usually measured in psi drop per 100 feet of length.
500 foot hose has 5 times the pressure drop of 100 foot
hose.

Prove it.

You obviously weren't paying attention in class... so long as pressure
and diameter remains constant volume remains constant... it's when
there is pressure loss and diameter decreases that volume decreases...
fire hose diameter reduces even when moved around corners... every
sailer learns this from shipboard fire control tutorials. And were
you truly in fire service you'd know that fire hose lays flat when
unpressurized and it's diameter changes with changes in pressure...
all you did at the firehouse is polish the firemen's poles.

Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
 

"Bob F" wrote:

If you take a mile of hose, or one 50 foot length, what percentage of the single
hose water will get through the mile length, with the same high volume source
and hose diameter? 100%? You don't really think so, do you?

I know from my experience that two hoses in series deliver significantly less
water than one. Now multiply that effect for a 500 foot hose.

For tapping beer from kegs, they even use the line length to drop the pressure
to avoid foaming. 3/16" beer line produces 2 psi drop per foot at the flow of a
normal tap.

You had better put down that sudz.. you don't know the difference
between pressure and volume.

Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
 

On 6/29/11 11:21 PM, FarmI wrote:
"Dean wrote in message
...

I wonder if you could find some used hand move sprinkler line. The
stuff I'm thinking of is 4" aluminum and has a coupler for a sprinkler at
each joint. It usually came in 30' or 40' sections.
You could just pull it apart to drain it or put a valve at a joint
now and then.
One drawback might be its temptation to thieves.

Good Lord. That stuff would now have antique value wouldn't it Dean?


I've never heard of anyone collecting it. Old tractors and
farm equipment , old cars and barb wire, yes. A former co worker told
me people collect the insulators used on the old overhead phone lines.
The scrap value of used aluminum pipe might be pretty high. Many
farmers in my area went to pivot irrigation so scrapped their irrigation
pipe. No one much cared for hand move sprinkler line. It was just too
labor intensive. My Dad had some. He also had "volunteers" to help
move it.

Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
 

Brooklyn1 wrote:
On Thu, 30 Jun 2011 18:05:26 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

When I was in the fire service, we learned that both length
and diameter matters. Smaller hose increases pressure drop,
usually measured in psi drop per 100 feet of length.
500 foot hose has 5 times the pressure drop of 100 foot
hose.

Prove it.

Try the equation for pressure drop in lines he

http://hydraulik.empass.biz/

or the graph he


http://www.polypipe.com.au/images/PP...m%20design.pdf



You obviously weren't paying attention in class... so long as pressure
and diameter remains constant volume remains constant... it's when
there is pressure loss and diameter decreases that volume decreases...
fire hose diameter reduces even when moved around corners... every
sailer learns this from shipboard fire control tutorials. And were
you truly in fire service you'd know that fire hose lays flat when
unpressurized and it's diameter changes with changes in pressure...
all you did at the firehouse is polish the firemen's poles.

When somebody challenges what you say instead of reaching for the personal
insults you would look less foolish and juvenile if you did some research to
see if just maybe you have made a mistake. It's not like this was the first
time. You could also try an apology now and then if you have made an honest
mistake - I won't be holding my breath waiting.

David

Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
 

Brooklyn1 Gravesend1 wrote:
On Thu, 30 Jun 2011 18:05:26 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

When I was in the fire service, we learned that both length
and diameter matters. Smaller hose increases pressure drop,
usually measured in psi drop per 100 feet of length.
500 foot hose has 5 times the pressure drop of 100 foot
hose.

Prove it.

You obviously weren't paying attention in class... so long as pressure
and diameter remains constant volume remains constant... it's when
there is pressure loss and diameter decreases that volume decreases...
fire hose diameter reduces even when moved around corners... every
sailer learns this from shipboard fire control tutorials. And were
you truly in fire service you'd know that fire hose lays flat when
unpressurized and it's diameter changes with changes in pressure...
all you did at the firehouse is polish the firemen's poles.

The volume is not constant. The longer the hose, the greater the volume of
water is in the hose. More water in the hose the greater the weight of the
water and the pressure will decrease.

Water pressure that comes from the city municipals have Huge pumps that can
"increase" the amount of energy to keep the pressure constant. Fire trucks
and Ship pumps will "increase" the energy to keep that pressure constant
and the length of hose will not matter as long as the length is within the
pumps limitations. Auto variable pumps are very expensive.

My home well system pump has a "constant" power output and does not
increase power to the home water system and most urban homes have limits on
the max pressure, my well system is set at a max of 50 psi, therefore
pressure will decrease as the hose gets longer or every toilet get flushed
at the same time, because my home well pump does not have the power to
maintain that pressure for really long runs.

One can prove this by getting a hose of different lengths at find out for
yourself.

--
Enjoy Life... Nad R (Garden in zone 5a Michigan)

Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
 

On Fri, 1 Jul 2011 01:31:31 +0000 (UTC), Nad R
wrote:

Brooklyn1 Gravesend1 wrote:
On Thu, 30 Jun 2011 18:05:26 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

When I was in the fire service, we learned that both length
and diameter matters. Smaller hose increases pressure drop,
usually measured in psi drop per 100 feet of length.
500 foot hose has 5 times the pressure drop of 100 foot
hose.

Prove it.

You obviously weren't paying attention in class... so long as pressure
and diameter remains constant volume remains constant... it's when
there is pressure loss and diameter decreases that volume decreases...
fire hose diameter reduces even when moved around corners... every
sailer learns this from shipboard fire control tutorials. And were
you truly in fire service you'd know that fire hose lays flat when
unpressurized and it's diameter changes with changes in pressure...
all you did at the firehouse is polish the firemen's poles.

The volume is not constant. The longer the hose, the greater the volume of
water is in the hose. More water in the hose the greater the weight of the
water and the pressure will decrease.

The weight of the water in teh pipe will only affect pressure if the
head of water is raised, but that has to do with gravity... if the
head of water is lowered volume will also increase.... but so long as
the pump rating is adequate for the lift the volume won't change.

Water pressure that comes from the city municipals have Huge pumps that can
"increase" the amount of energy to keep the pressure constant. Fire trucks
and Ship pumps will "increase" the energy to keep that pressure constant
and the length of hose will not matter as long as the length is within the
pumps limitations. Auto variable pumps are very expensive.

My home well system pump has a "constant" power output and does not
increase power to the home water system and most urban homes have limits on
the max pressure, my well system is set at a max of 50 psi, therefore
pressure will decrease as the hose gets longer or every toilet get flushed
at the same time, because my home well pump does not have the power to
maintain that pressure for really long runs.

One can prove this by getting a hose of different lengths at find out for
yourself.

You changed the topic, you're talking about pump ratings and wells,
not hose length. With your well pump set up volume won't change with
a longer hose so long as you're not running it up hill, that your well
maintains adequate water volume, and your well pump maintains
pressure. But the topic is not about wells and pumps. If you
remember my original reply I asked about topograpghy for exactly what
you're bringing up. The height water is lifted affects volume, but not
the length of run on level ground. You'd probably understand if
you've ever siphoned water any appreciable distance, siphoning
eliminates frailities of a pump. And you do realize that temperatures
affects volume too, higher temperatures cause hose diameter to expand
creating a greater cross sectional area, in effect a larger diameter
tube... there are other factors that alter volume too but not piping
length alone. About two years ago I did a lot of reasearch on this
exact topic for irrigating a property in Idaho by pumping water from a
pond... there were several problems due to the hilly terrain. In the
end several pumps proved inadequate... it was less costly and entailed
far less labor by hauling water with a cart. And if the OP wants to
irrigate 6 acres I'd definitely recommend a much larger well. I have
two wells on my property, the one for my house was tested and delivers
12 gallons a minute, the one that used to be used for irrigating crops
delivers 30 gallons a minute. I use the larger well only
occasionally, to water my vegetable garden and to fill the buckets I
sometimes haul about... I also use it to wash my tractors and whatever
else requires large volumes of water.

Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
 

In article ,
"Stormin Mormon" wrote:

It's gentler, to supply some reason, rather than flat
contradiction.

Lemme see whether I understand your point. Try this:

You're wrong, because you're a top-posting Mormon.

How'd I do?

Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
 

On 6/30/2011 9:22 AM, Bob F wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:
80 cents a foot? That's more pricey than garden hose?

A 500 foot garden hose isn't going to pass much water.



it'll pass as much water as a same sized poly or pvc.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
 

Brooklyn1 wrote:
"Bob F" wrote:

If you take a mile of hose, or one 50 foot length, what percentage
of the single hose water will get through the mile length, with the
same high volume source and hose diameter? 100%? You don't really
think so, do you?

I know from my experience that two hoses in series deliver
significantly less water than one. Now multiply that effect for a
500 foot hose.

For tapping beer from kegs, they even use the line length to drop
the pressure to avoid foaming. 3/16" beer line produces 2 psi drop
per foot at the flow of a normal tap.

You had better put down that sudz.. you don't know the difference
between pressure and volume.

I do. Do you?

Droping the pressure drops the volume. Dropping it evenly over the length of the
hose results in a good pour. The tap needs to be fully open, or foam results.

From http://forum.northernbrewer.com/view...php?f=3&t=3877

If you want higher or lower carbonation, remember to adjust your beer hose
length one foot for each 2 psi. Otherwise you'll get foam when you pour.

Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
 

Brooklyn1 wrote:
On Thu, 30 Jun 2011 18:05:26 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

When I was in the fire service, we learned that both length
and diameter matters. Smaller hose increases pressure drop,
usually measured in psi drop per 100 feet of length.
500 foot hose has 5 times the pressure drop of 100 foot
hose.

Prove it.

You obviously weren't paying attention in class... so long as pressure
and diameter remains constant volume remains constant... it's when
there is pressure loss and diameter decreases that volume decreases...
fire hose diameter reduces even when moved around corners... every
sailer learns this from shipboard fire control tutorials. And were
you truly in fire service you'd know that fire hose lays flat when
unpressurized and it's diameter changes with changes in pressure...
all you did at the firehouse is polish the firemen's poles.

Too bad you're wrong. As water moves through a pipe, the sides of the pipe cause
friction, resulting in pressure loss. The longer the pipe and larger the speed
of the water through the pipe, the more pressure loss, so less water gets pushed
out the end of a longer pipe. That's why they use larger pipes for longer runs.
The larger pipe reduces the pressure losses, so you can get the desired volume
out of the longer pipe.

Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
 

Steve Barker wrote:
On 6/30/2011 9:22 AM, Bob F wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:
80 cents a foot? That's more pricey than garden hose?

A 500 foot garden hose isn't going to pass much water.



it'll pass as much water as a same sized poly or pvc.

Exactly. That's why you use larger poly or PVC than the common garden hose.

Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
 

Bob F wrote:
Steve Barker wrote:
On 6/30/2011 9:22 AM, Bob F wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:
80 cents a foot? That's more pricey than garden hose?

A 500 foot garden hose isn't going to pass much water.



it'll pass as much water as a same sized poly or pvc.

Exactly. That's why you use larger poly or PVC than the common garden
hose.

I used 1" PVC for my home sprinkler system, even though it's way less than 500
feet on any zone. That way I get sufficient water to every sprinkler, and each
head gets similar pressure. Using smaller pipe would lose those advantages when
supplying hagh volume heads.

Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
 

On 6/29/2011 4:30 PM, James Nipper wrote:

Any ideas of what I should look for, or use ? Any general ideas of how to
accomplish what I am trying to do ?

Remember that PVC pipe deteriorates in the sun unless painted.

Buy 20' lengths of 1" PVC at an irrigation supply house, don't go to
Home Depot or Lowe's.

http://www.ewing1.com/general/ews_loc_locations.htm

Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??
 

SMS wrote:
On 6/29/2011 4:30 PM, James Nipper wrote:

Any ideas of what I should look for, or use ? Any general ideas of
how to accomplish what I am trying to do ?

Remember that PVC pipe deteriorates in the sun unless painted.

Buy 20' lengths of 1" PVC at an irrigation supply house, don't go to
Home Depot or Lowe's.

http://www.ewing1.com/general/ews_loc_locations.htm

And don't buy the thin stuff if you want it to last. PVC comes in two grades.