I have a wooded area in my back yard which is a "low lying" and wet area. There's a brook/stream that runs across it.

For nearly 20 years, I've had a number of large tulip poplars which have bloomed every year until this year.

Last year, around this time, there was a very large deluge which left a HUGE amount of sand, rocks, etc etc in the yard..... it's been unblocked and redistributed but is still several inches higher than in years past. ground cover hasn't yet grown in over what was the deepest pile of sand/rock......

As of this July (today) only, of the 5, one has leaves and only scattered in smaller branches up the main trunk.

Will they recover? How long should I expect to wait before I panic?

thanks in advance.

Two distantly related trees are called "tulip": one is the species
Liriodendron tulipifera and one is the species Magnolia soulangeana.
Poplars are unrelated to either of them, being in the genus Populus and
more closely related to willows. Which do you have?

Also, where are you? That is, what is your climate?

On 6/15/2014 9:19 AM, ElCuartoMago wrote:
I have a wooded area in my back yard which is a "low lying" and wet area. There's a brook/stream that runs across it.

For nearly 20 years, I've had a number of large tulip poplars which have bloomed every year until this year.

Last year, around this time, there was a very large deluge which left a HUGE amount of sand, rocks, etc etc in the yard..... it's been unblocked and redistributed but is still several inches higher than in years past. ground cover hasn't yet grown in over what was the deepest pile of sand/rock......

As of this July (today) only, of the 5, one has leaves and only scattered in smaller branches up the main trunk.

Will they recover? How long should I expect to wait before I panic?

thanks in advance.



--
David E. Ross
Climate: California Mediterranean, see
http://www.rossde.com/garden/climate.html
Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary

Here's youtube link I found. kinda long but that's exactly it.

http://youtu.be/bKSp40_OCuQ

Zone 7b. upstate SC.

I appreciate your time in answering.

Ismael

On Sunday, June 15, 2014 2:39:50 PM UTC-4, David E. Ross wrote:
Two distantly related trees are called "tulip": one is the species

Liriodendron tulipifera and one is the species Magnolia soulangeana.

Poplars are unrelated to either of them, being in the genus Populus and

more closely related to willows. Which do you have?



Also, where are you? That is, what is your climate?



On 6/15/2014 9:19 AM, ElCuartoMago wrote:

I have a wooded area in my back yard which is a "low lying" and wet area. There's a brook/stream that runs across it.



For nearly 20 years, I've had a number of large tulip poplars which have bloomed every year until this year.



Last year, around this time, there was a very large deluge which left a HUGE amount of sand, rocks, etc etc in the yard..... it's been unblocked and redistributed but is still several inches higher than in years past. ground cover hasn't yet grown in over what was the deepest pile of sand/rock.......



As of this July (today) only, of the 5, one has leaves and only scattered in smaller branches up the main trunk.



Will they recover? How long should I expect to wait before I panic?



thanks in advance.







--

David E. Ross

Climate: California Mediterranean, see

http://www.rossde.com/garden/climate.html

Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary

I fear your trees may be doomed. Liriodendron tulipifera requires soil
that drains very well. Being somewhat related to magnolias, it has
delicate, easily damaged surface roots. Your trees likely suffered from
soil that was too wet, and the depositing of eroded debris may have
damaged the vital surface roots.

You might wait until next spring to see if some of the trees recover.
In the meantime, apply a generous amount of gypsum in the "drip zone"
(the area from the trunk to the farthest branches) to improve drainage.
Lightly rinse the gypsum into the soil without making the soil soggy;
this should be a gradual process over 2-3 weeks. Otherwise, DO NOT
FERTILIZE; roots injured by too much water or being buried too deep by
debris will be further traumatized by fertilizer. Also, be very careful
about removing eroded debris; do not disturb the soil underneath but do
remove the debris.

On 6/15/2014 2:25 PM, ElCuartoMago wrote:
Here's youtube link I found. kinda long but that's exactly it.

http://youtu.be/bKSp40_OCuQ

Zone 7b. upstate SC.

I appreciate your time in answering.

Ismael

On Sunday, June 15, 2014 2:39:50 PM UTC-4, David E. Ross wrote:
Two distantly related trees are called "tulip": one is the species

Liriodendron tulipifera and one is the species Magnolia soulangeana.

Poplars are unrelated to either of them, being in the genus Populus and

more closely related to willows. Which do you have?



Also, where are you? That is, what is your climate?



On 6/15/2014 9:19 AM, ElCuartoMago wrote:

I have a wooded area in my back yard which is a "low lying" and wet area. There's a brook/stream that runs across it.



For nearly 20 years, I've had a number of large tulip poplars which have bloomed every year until this year.



Last year, around this time, there was a very large deluge which left a HUGE amount of sand, rocks, etc etc in the yard..... it's been unblocked and redistributed but is still several inches higher than in years past. ground cover hasn't yet grown in over what was the deepest pile of sand/rock......



As of this July (today) only, of the 5, one has leaves and only scattered in smaller branches up the main trunk.



Will they recover? How long should I expect to wait before I panic?



thanks in advance.







--

David E. Ross

Climate: California Mediterranean, see

http://www.rossde.com/garden/climate.html

Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary


--
David E. Ross
Climate: California Mediterranean, see
http://www.rossde.com/garden/climate.html
Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary

They've been growing in a very wet area for the nearly 20 years..... not a "swamp" but it is a flood zone.

I'll try bringing in some gypsum but I have to be careful. It's a very wet and you can't really bring equipment in. it would have to be hand trucked (wheelbarrow). is there a suggested cubic yardage/square yard that I should be targeting?

I've already moved a great deal of the debris (mostly like a river river sand and many many rocks). the surface roots makes sense as the above (i'm guessing) might have have suffocated the surface roots in that area.

On Sunday, June 15, 2014 7:54:09 PM UTC-4, David E. Ross wrote:
I fear your trees may be doomed. Liriodendron tulipifera requires soil

that drains very well. Being somewhat related to magnolias, it has

delicate, easily damaged surface roots. Your trees likely suffered from

soil that was too wet, and the depositing of eroded debris may have

damaged the vital surface roots.



You might wait until next spring to see if some of the trees recover.

In the meantime, apply a generous amount of gypsum in the "drip zone"

(the area from the trunk to the farthest branches) to improve drainage.

Lightly rinse the gypsum into the soil without making the soil soggy;

this should be a gradual process over 2-3 weeks. Otherwise, DO NOT

FERTILIZE; roots injured by too much water or being buried too deep by

debris will be further traumatized by fertilizer. Also, be very careful

about removing eroded debris; do not disturb the soil underneath but do

remove the debris.



On 6/15/2014 2:25 PM, ElCuartoMago wrote:

Here's youtube link I found. kinda long but that's exactly it.



http://youtu.be/bKSp40_OCuQ



Zone 7b. upstate SC.



I appreciate your time in answering.



Ismael



On Sunday, June 15, 2014 2:39:50 PM UTC-4, David E. Ross wrote:

Two distantly related trees are called "tulip": one is the species



Liriodendron tulipifera and one is the species Magnolia soulangeana.



Poplars are unrelated to either of them, being in the genus Populus and



more closely related to willows. Which do you have?







Also, where are you? That is, what is your climate?







On 6/15/2014 9:19 AM, ElCuartoMago wrote:



I have a wooded area in my back yard which is a "low lying" and wet area. There's a brook/stream that runs across it.







For nearly 20 years, I've had a number of large tulip poplars which have bloomed every year until this year.







Last year, around this time, there was a very large deluge which left a HUGE amount of sand, rocks, etc etc in the yard..... it's been unblocked and redistributed but is still several inches higher than in years past. ground cover hasn't yet grown in over what was the deepest pile of sand/rock.......







As of this July (today) only, of the 5, one has leaves and only scattered in smaller branches up the main trunk.







Will they recover? How long should I expect to wait before I panic?







thanks in advance.















--



David E. Ross



Climate: California Mediterranean, see



http://www.rossde.com/garden/climate.html



Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary





--

David E. Ross

Climate: California Mediterranean, see

http://www.rossde.com/garden/climate.html

Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary

You need to apply just enough gypsum to coat the soil, about 1/8 to 1/4
inch thick.

In my garden, I hand broadcast gypsum. I treat my entire garden --
front and back - every other year, using about 250 pounds. (50 pound
sack costs about $9.) In certain areas -- especially around my
camellias and azaleas -- I use it every year. I use it because my soil
is heavy clay, and gypsum causes the clay to become less pasty and more
granular. That is, it improves the drainage and prevents the clay from
becoming soggy. I generally apply it in October or November,
anticipating the rainy season (November through March) to rinse it into
the soil. I also dig it into the soil when planting. Counting the
footprint of my house, I have slightly less than 0.2 acre (a standard
tract lot).

DO NOT buy gypsum at Home Depot. Their gypsum is only 70% and contains
pebbles and other non-gypsum trash. It's garbage!! I generally look
for a brand called Bumper Crop, which is 90% gypsum. Many nurseries in
my area carry it.


On 6/15/2014 5:24 PM, ElCuartoMago wrote:
They've been growing in a very wet area for the nearly 20 years.....
not a "swamp" but it is a flood zone.

I'll try bringing in some gypsum but I have to be careful. It's a
very wet and you can't really bring equipment in. it would have to be
hand trucked (wheelbarrow). is there a suggested cubic yardage/square
yard that I should be targeting?

I've already moved a great deal of the debris (mostly like a river
river sand and many many rocks). the surface roots makes sense as the
above (i'm guessing) might have have suffocated the surface roots in
that area.



--
David E. Ross
Climate: California Mediterranean, see
http://www.rossde.com/garden/climate.html
Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary

Nice tips. I'll try and cross my fingers. I usually aerate, fertilize and lime in the fall. frankly never thought about adding gypsum and don't usually do much around those trees as they've just taken care of themselves. they're surrounded by hosta, ferns, azaleas, lacecap hydrangeas and elephant ears which have all taken care of themselves...........

Only the hosta, ferns and elephant bounced back unaffected. Didn't really pay close attention to the trees until recently.

thanks for the advice.



On Sunday, June 15, 2014 11:02:19 PM UTC-4, David E. Ross wrote:
You need to apply just enough gypsum to coat the soil, about 1/8 to 1/4

inch thick.



In my garden, I hand broadcast gypsum. I treat my entire garden --

front and back - every other year, using about 250 pounds. (50 pound

sack costs about $9.) In certain areas -- especially around my

camellias and azaleas -- I use it every year. I use it because my soil

is heavy clay, and gypsum causes the clay to become less pasty and more

granular. That is, it improves the drainage and prevents the clay from

becoming soggy. I generally apply it in October or November,

anticipating the rainy season (November through March) to rinse it into

the soil. I also dig it into the soil when planting. Counting the

footprint of my house, I have slightly less than 0.2 acre (a standard

tract lot).



DO NOT buy gypsum at Home Depot. Their gypsum is only 70% and contains

pebbles and other non-gypsum trash. It's garbage!! I generally look

for a brand called Bumper Crop, which is 90% gypsum. Many nurseries in

my area carry it.





On 6/15/2014 5:24 PM, ElCuartoMago wrote:

They've been growing in a very wet area for the nearly 20 years.....

not a "swamp" but it is a flood zone.



I'll try bringing in some gypsum but I have to be careful. It's a

very wet and you can't really bring equipment in. it would have to be

hand trucked (wheelbarrow). is there a suggested cubic yardage/square

yard that I should be targeting?



I've already moved a great deal of the debris (mostly like a river

river sand and many many rocks). the surface roots makes sense as the

above (i'm guessing) might have have suffocated the surface roots in

that area.







--

David E. Ross

Climate: California Mediterranean, see

http://www.rossde.com/garden/climate.html

Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary

ElCuartoMago writes:

I have a wooded area in my back yard which is a "low lying" and wet
area. There's a brook/stream that runs across it.

For nearly 20 years, I've had a number of large tulip poplars which
have bloomed every year until this year.

Last year, around this time, there was a very large deluge which left
a HUGE amount of sand, rocks, etc etc in the yard..... it's been
unblocked and redistributed but is still several inches higher than in
years past. ground cover hasn't yet grown in over what was the deepest
pile of sand/rock......

As of this July (today) only, of the 5, one has leaves and only
scattered in smaller branches up the main trunk.

Will they recover? How long should I expect to wait before I panic?
thanks in advance.

My opinion is that the trees without leaves are dead.
You're down in SC.
Up here in NJ our Tulip Poplars have been leafed out for at least a
month.
I can't imagine any way those trees are coming back.

Panic won't help but I think dead trees become more hazardous to
remove as they become older. More chance of the tree breaking or
falling as it's being cut.

Our trees are huge, at last a yard in diameter.
I've had some removed over the years for various reasons.
About 3K each to remove. Last year we lost 3 large ones to Sandy.
They fell, so removal was cheaper.

Tulip Poplars are interesting.
They have one of the more spectacular flowers, but because
the blooms are so high up and green colored, you might not
even see the flowers.

When I first saw your post I looked around and found the
You Tube video about drinking the nectar out of the flower.
Next time I get my hands on a flower I'll have to try it.

--
Dan Espen

On 6/16/2014 1:58 PM, ElCuartoMago wrote:
Nice tips. I'll try and cross my fingers. I usually aerate, fertilize
and lime in the fall. frankly never thought about adding gypsum and
don't usually do much around those trees as they've just taken care
of themselves. they're surrounded by hosta, ferns, azaleas, lacecap
hydrangeas and elephant ears which have all taken care of
themselves...........

Only the hosta, ferns and elephant bounced back unaffected. Didn't
really pay close attention to the trees until recently.

thanks for the advice.


DO NOT aerate within the drip zone of the tulip trees. Aerating will
severely damage the delicate surface roots. Also, I would not use lime
around them; they prefer an acid soil.

--
David E. Ross
Climate: California Mediterranean, see
http://www.rossde.com/garden/climate.html
Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary