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#1
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PNW shade-loving perennials?
Please help a relocated girl from Chicago pick out some perennials for
her new Portland-area flower beds and rock gardens. Huge property, much shade - some areas get *some* sunlight (a few hours per day). Also, how do I permanently get rid of blackberries without resorting to Tritox or some such horrible thing? They just laughed at the Round-Up. TIA for any help - I'm on a steep learning curve, and have been weeding furiously. Any good book recs are also welcome. -L. (Loving the trillium all over my back yard...) |
#2
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PNW shade-loving perennials?
I've seen this site before -- it seemes like a good one for perennials in
the PNW area. Of course, microclimes and such may mean that you have different requirements. http://www.backyardgardener.com/perennials.html I like the plant lists and the pictures -- especially how it looks in different seasons. -- pelirojaroja "dangerous redhead" "Lyn" wrote in message om... Please help a relocated girl from Chicago pick out some perennials for her new Portland-area flower beds and rock gardens. Huge property, much shade - some areas get *some* sunlight (a few hours per day). Also, how do I permanently get rid of blackberries without resorting to Tritox or some such horrible thing? They just laughed at the Round-Up. TIA for any help - I'm on a steep learning curve, and have been weeding furiously. Any good book recs are also welcome. -L. (Loving the trillium all over my back yard...) |
#3
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PNW shade-loving perennials?
In article ,
(Lyn) wrote: Please help a relocated girl from Chicago pick out some perennials for her new Portland-area flower beds and rock gardens. Huge property, much shade - some areas get *some* sunlight (a few hours per day). Also, how do I permanently get rid of blackberries without resorting to Tritox or some such horrible thing? They just laughed at the Round-Up. TIA for any help - I'm on a steep learning curve, and have been weeding furiously. Any good book recs are also welcome. -L. (Loving the trillium all over my back yard...) I have shade gardens on Puget Sound; your weather is a bit damper than here but that just makes it even better for the majority of shade perennials which like it damp. Everything I've grown successfully so could you, & here's an index of links to a lot of my shade plants: http://www.paghat.com/garden1.html Ferns, monkshoods, hardy geraniums, & arums have their separate index pages, & are also mainly shade plants, & shade shrubs are indexed with other shrubs. Of these, if I had to focus on a few great things-for-starters, I have been extremely happy with: 1) Dicentra formosa, the western bleeding heart, short ferny foliage & small bright magenta-pink heart-lockets. Everblooming spring thru autumn. 2) Dicentra spectabilis "Alba" -- old fashioned bleeding heart with huge white lockets, slightly more restrained than big-sprawling pink one. Everblooming spring thru autumn. 3) Asarum caudatum, wild American ginger. Beautifully leafy groundcover, with amazingly cool flowers hidden under leaves. Evergreen. 4) Corydalys flexuosa. Ferny foliage with the brightest pure blue fish-shaped tubular flowers "swimming" over the surface of the leaves. Everblooming spring thru autumn, though in late summer most of its cultivars die back or get momentarily scruffy in the heat then spring back for an autumn rebloom. 5) Epimediums. Do nicely in a shady area that's too dry for most shade perennials. Many varieties are evergreen in our climate, though pretty beat looking at winter's end. One particularly fine one is E. grandiflorum "Lilafree" because the flowers are more overt & colorful than on many epimediums. 6) Hepatica (Liverleaf). Year-round interest, very low-growing clumps for front of garden. Among the Ferns, these range from truly stunning wonders to fantastical amazing whoopdidoo stunning wonders. Some best-of-best in my gardens have been: 7) Blechnum spicant, our native Deer Fern. Smallish fern, strongly evergreen. 8) Polystichum munitum, our native Western Sword Fern. Large, fountaining, strongly evergreen. One of the greatest ferns anywhere in the world, yet native of right here. 9) Polystichum polyblepharum, Japanese Tassel Fern. One of mine has stayed under two-foot wide; the other in its fourth year suddenly got huge, three feet high & four feet wide. Japan's answer to the Western Sword Fern, the most strongly evergreen of any fern we have, very shiny green, young fronds "tasseled." 10) Dryopteris wallichiana, Wallich's Wood Fern. Evergreen, yellow-green fronds with black stems when first emerging, hardening to deep green. Was a two foot tall fern for two years; this year it is over three feet tall. Quite upright so doesn't take up too much room despite its marvelous height. 11) Athyrium otophorum var. okanum, Eared Lady Fern, one of the most colorful ferns in the world, having through its changes bright shades of purple, lime-green, blue-green, & green -- the stems remaining red or burgandy even at maturity. Smallish; Deciduous. 12) Arachnoides simplicior "Variegata", Variegated Shield Fern. Evergreen in our zone. A stand-out with the green fronds having a bright yellow stripe down the center, upright or vase shaped. Among arums: 13) Arisaema taiwanese. Formosan jack-in-the-pulpit. Hard to choose a "best" among these, but if someone had little or no experience with jack-in-the-pulpits, this is one that for the Northwest is both exaggerated in strange beauty AND not apt to be demanding as to condition. The cobra-hooded flower is itself long lasting, but when it is gone, the single stem with set of umbrella-leaves lasts until autumn. I've not had the berries yet on this one, but if they occur, bright orange summer & fall. 14) Arisarum proboscideum, Mouse Plant. A beautiful groundcover of arrowhead leaves. Part the leaves & there's a family of mice! The spathe flower has a white belly, a maroon back & "tail" that can be three or four times longer than the rest of the flower. Off the Aconite & Geranium indexes: 15) Monkshoods. Can't choose a favorite, they're all equally good, but start with something "standard" in being deepest blue. One easily obtained variety is called "Arendsii" -- it is an old standard that blooms very late in the year. 16) Crane's-bills, hardy geraniums. These I love, love, love, but like the monkshoods, they have such a shared character it's difficult to pick out one as better than the rest. A variety called "Patricia" has an extremely long bloom time into autumn, "Samobar" has fascinating two-color leaves & reflexed purple flowers, & "Plenum" has double flowers that look like little lavender roses. There's so much else. I just realized I left off trilliums. Our own native Western Trillium is a tremendous garden plant. Dogtooth lilies can be hard to get established, except a hybrid cultivar called "Pagoda" which takes no special knack to succeed with. I left off hostas because they've never been my personal favorites -- but many people obsess on them & there are many leaf varieties (the blooms tend not to be as interesting & not at all varied one variety to the next) & our climate is ideal for them. For shade gardening the west-of-Cascades Pacific Northwest is hard to beat, we just have the ideal conditions for so many great things. One "problem" is how many of these are die-back leaving the garden a bit stark in winter, but this can be worked around by including a few shade shrubs (evergreens like lingonberry & wintergreen or deciduous like Kerria rose with its upright bright lime-green branches of interest even in winter), & with the more strongly evergreen ferns, & with Asarum gingers or bunchberries. -paghat the ratgirl -- "Of what are you afraid, my child?" inquired the kindly teacher. "Oh, sir! The flowers, they are wild," replied the timid creature. -from Peter Newell's "Wild Flowers" See the Garden of Paghat the Ratgirl: http://www.paghat.com/ |
#4
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PNW shade-loving perennials?
Lyn,
Fifteen years ago, I moved into my house and found a 10'x12' shed buried under a mound of blackberries! I found the only "permanent" way to get rid of the BBs was to cut them down, and burn or otherwise permanently dispose of the canes. Note: they'll re-root easily, and I wouldn't recommend composting unless your pile is real hot. Then dig up the roots. This will keep them back for a year or so. What I've done is to mow or otherwise trim back the grasses so I can see if they're coming back. A thrice yearly mow will keep them tame for years. Good luck! skg "Lyn" wrote in message om... Please help a relocated girl from Chicago pick out some perennials for her new Portland-area flower beds and rock gardens. Huge property, much shade - some areas get *some* sunlight (a few hours per day). Also, how do I permanently get rid of blackberries without resorting to Tritox or some such horrible thing? They just laughed at the Round-Up. TIA for any help - I'm on a steep learning curve, and have been weeding furiously. Any good book recs are also welcome. -L. (Loving the trillium all over my back yard...) |
#6
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PNW shade-loving perennials?
"pelirojaroja" wrote in message .. .
I've seen this site before -- it seemes like a good one for perennials in the PNW area. Of course, microclimes and such may mean that you have different requirements. http://www.backyardgardener.com/perennials.html I like the plant lists and the pictures -- especially how it looks in different seasons. -- pelirojaroja "dangerous redhead" Thanks for the great link! I will do some more research, and then plan to get started. I will report back my progress... -L. |
#7
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PNW shade-loving perennials?
"skg" wrote in message ...
Lyn, Fifteen years ago, I moved into my house and found a 10'x12' shed buried under a mound of blackberries! Wow! I found the only "permanent" way to get rid of the BBs was to cut them down, and burn or otherwise permanently dispose of the canes. Note: they'll re-root easily, and I wouldn't recommend composting unless your pile is real hot. Then dig up the roots. This will keep them back for a year or so. What I've done is to mow or otherwise trim back the grasses so I can see if they're coming back. A thrice yearly mow will keep them tame for years. Good luck! skg Thanks! So far, they seem to be "little" ones coming up from buried roots. I think we will have to be dilligent in digging them up. Of course, they weren't there when we looked at the property! -L. |
#8
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PNW shade-loving perennials?
Just a bit off topic but perhaps helpful. One of the best books, in my
opinion, for a PNW gardener is the Sunset Garden Book. I was given my first as a house warming present about 35 years ago. I'm on my 3rd edition now but have kept them all because I have lots of notes, almost like my garden journal. Check it out the next time you are in a bookstore or garden center that sells books. I'm sure you'll like what you see. Val "Lyn" wrote in message om... Please help a relocated girl from Chicago pick out some perennials for her new Portland-area flower beds and rock gardens. Huge property, much shade - some areas get *some* sunlight (a few hours per day). Also, how do I permanently get rid of blackberries without resorting to Tritox or some such horrible thing? They just laughed at the Round-Up. TIA for any help - I'm on a steep learning curve, and have been weeding furiously. Any good book recs are also welcome. -L. (Loving the trillium all over my back yard...) |
#9
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PNW shade-loving perennials?
"Valkyrie" wrote in message news:1053055019.867864@yasure...
Just a bit off topic but perhaps helpful. One of the best books, in my opinion, for a PNW gardener is the Sunset Garden Book. I was given my first as a house warming present about 35 years ago. I'm on my 3rd edition now but have kept them all because I have lots of notes, almost like my garden journal. Check it out the next time you are in a bookstore or garden center that sells books. I'm sure you'll like what you see. Val Thanks so much. I'll look for it next time I'm at the bookstores. -L. |
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