Hi. I am getting ready to make some beds for a garden which is
currently grass. As the first step I was going to rent a sod cutter
and remove the grass (I have started it by hand, but I don't have 6
weeks to get it done), and then rent a tiller to turn up the soil
and/or mix the appropriate organic material into the beds. Since it
costs about $80/day to rent each machine, I then thought it might be
better to buy one (hopefully used) since I would probably end up
needing them on at least 4 occasions (that is if I can get
organized/plan far enough ahead), or more (if I remain dis-organized).
From there my question - I have been reading about tillers on the
web, but I have a couple of questions. Assuming we are staying in the
$600 Tractor Supply/Lowes range of rear-tine tiller, how would they do
at the following: (I know almost nothing about these machines)

(1) sod removal - setting it so that they only remove the top 3-4",
which I can rake/shovel to get the grass up
(2) breaking virgin clayey soil
(3) breaking a packed gravel driveway so that I can more easily remove
the gravel (sort of like #1, scrape the top 1" or so).

And some general questions about operation:

(A) Does the user control the depth by how much you let the handles
down, or is there a machine setting to control this? (i.e. some types
of stops on how deep the tines can do)?

(B) Does the machine move forward via the rotation of the tines, or
are the front wheels powered?

(C) if the tines move the machine forward, what about the counter
rotating tines and forward progress?

(D) if the wheels are powered, can we put them to other useages, like
snow plowing or grading stones or something? (I read about people
moving loads of soil and stuff like this, but it wasn't clear if this
was with a normal tiller or a super one (like one of the troy-builts
w/ a PTO)).

Thanks very much for your input,

don

rom: (don schad)

Hi. I am getting ready to make some beds for a garden which is
currently grass. As the first step I was going to rent a sod cutter
and remove the grass (I have started it by hand, but I don't have 6
weeks to get it done), and then rent a tiller to turn up the soil
and/or mix the appropriate organic material into the beds. Since it
costs about $80/day to rent each machine, I then thought it might be
better to buy one (hopefully used) since I would probably end up
needing them on at least 4 occasions (that is if I can get
organized/plan far enough ahead), or more (if I remain dis-organized).
From there my question - I have been reading about tillers on the
web, but I have a couple of questions. Assuming we are staying in the
$600 Tractor Supply/Lowes range of rear-tine tiller, how would they do
at the following: (I know almost nothing about these machines)

(1) sod removal - setting it so that they only remove the top 3-4",
which I can rake/shovel to get the grass up
(2) breaking virgin clayey soil
(3) breaking a packed gravel driveway so that I can more easily remove
the gravel (sort of like #1, scrape the top 1" or so).

And some general questions about operation:

(A) Does the user control the depth by how much you let the handles
down, or is there a machine setting to control this? (i.e. some types
of stops on how deep the tines can do)?

(B) Does the machine move forward via the rotation of the tines, or
are the front wheels powered?

(C) if the tines move the machine forward, what about the counter
rotating tines and forward progress?

(D) if the wheels are powered, can we put them to other useages, like
snow plowing or grading stones or something? (I read about people
moving loads of soil and stuff like this, but it wasn't clear if this
was with a normal tiller or a super one (like one of the troy-builts
w/ a PTO)).

Thanks very much for your input,

don

Don--save youself a lot of labor and worry and hire out the job. Someone with a
PTO driven tractor mounted tiller can do it quickly and far better then your
small tillers. Till in the sod--it will add organic matter to the soil--will
need a second tilling in a couple of weeks to furthur incorporate the sod and
you can add fertilizer at that time. Using my compact diesel with a pto tiller
i h ave gone from sod to tomato field in a month.

On 8 Sep 2003 06:12:48 -0700, (don schad)
wrote:

x-Hi. I am getting ready to make some beds for a garden which is
x-currently grass. As the first step I was going to rent a sod cutter
x-and remove the grass (I have started it by hand, but I don't have 6
x-weeks to get it done), and then rent a tiller to turn up the soil
x-and/or mix the appropriate organic material into the beds. Since it
x-costs about $80/day to rent each machine, I then thought it might be
x-better to buy one (hopefully used) since I would probably end up
x-needing them on at least 4 occasions (that is if I can get
x-organized/plan far enough ahead), or more (if I remain dis-organized).
x- From there my question - I have been reading about tillers on the
x-web, but I have a couple of questions. Assuming we are staying in the
x-$600 Tractor Supply/Lowes range of rear-tine tiller, how would they do
x-at the following: (I know almost nothing about these machines)
x-
x-(1) sod removal - setting it so that they only remove the top 3-4",
x-which I can rake/shovel to get the grass up

This is accomplished with the depth control of the tiller. Most if not
all have a feature that allows depth to be regulated in about 1"
increments

x-(2) breaking virgin clayey soil

Most should do it, some easier than others, but ts certainly within
the spec of a garden tiller
x-(3) breaking a packed gravel driveway so that I can more easily remove
x-the gravel (sort of like #1, scrape the top 1" or so).
x-
Should also present little problems, might be a bit rough to start,
but it would be no worse than unbroken packed soils

x-And some general questions about operation:
x-
x-(A) Does the user control the depth by how much you let the handles
x-down, or is there a machine setting to control this? (i.e. some types
x-of stops on how deep the tines can do)?
See #1 above
x-
x-(B) Does the machine move forward via the rotation of the tines, or
x-are the front wheels powered?

Dependss. There are some tillers out there that do not have wheels
that have any drive ability. You have to hold back against the
machine, and use a sprag that digs in to help hold it, and let the
tines pull forward and let them dig in. STAY AWAY from these back
breakers, they are trouble and not worth the hassle if they were
giving them away for free. Some machies are forward rotating tines and
some are couter rotating. Does not make too much difference to me
which way they operate, except for at the end of a row, one will make
a depression the other will not, other than that they both do a good
job of tilling. The machines weight and the drive wheels are what
holds the machine in place and sets the pace for tilling. The tines
buck the motion of the wheels, and in the process till up the ground,
with little need to hold the machine back or help push it forward.
x-
x-(C) if the tines move the machine forward, what about the counter
x-rotating tines and forward progress?
same principal as forward rotating tines, they work against the drive
and hold the machine in place at the pace set by the speed selected.
x-
x-(D) if the wheels are powered, can we put them to other useages, like
x-snow plowing or grading stones or something? (I read about people
x-moving loads of soil and stuff like this, but it wasn't clear if this
x-was with a normal tiller or a super one (like one of the troy-builts
x-w/ a PTO)).

I would not call a Troybuilt a super tiller, there are others out
there cheaper that work just as good and some even better. But even if
it does not have a PTO and the ability to disconnect the tiller
portion and install another attachment, you can always disengage the
tiller tine drive and attach a snow blade or make a hitch and pull a
wagon etc. Just look at it as a sort of 2 wheel tractor with
limitations.
x-
x-Thanks very much for your input,

I have an Atlas brand 8hp tiller that is built just like a Troy built
pro model horse, but new it cost me only $695.00 at the local co-op.
It can do what a Troy built does, has all the same features and at
better than 50% of the cost of a Troybuilt. Its easy to work on if
need be, tills up to 8" deep, has a hiller / furrower attachment and
uses tines that look just like Troybuilts. It has proven to be trouble
free in the years I have owned it (about 5 so far) Prior to this I
bought a Troybuilt horse, pro model, and had lots of problems with
reverse engage and belt slipping, then the Kohler magnum 7hp motor
started to skip and miss, and I found out it had a broken cam shaft.
All this i only 1 year of ownership. I sold it, and bought the Atlas,
and its just been great. Never had the first glitch or problem, and I
normally plant a 75 x 150 patch, plus use it to do a multitude of odds
and ends, like drag a shank to make a ditch to lay wire or pipe in
etc. Honda and BCS both make great tillers as do others. Just look for
a unit with drive wheels, and don't worry if their gear or enclosed or
chaian drive. They all work fine, and will last with reasonable care.
My Troy had to be a lemon, but it was enough to turn me off of any
further troybuilt products.


x-
x-don

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Visit my website:
http://www.frugalmachinist.com
Contents: foundry and general metal working and lots of related projects.
Regards
Roy aka Chipmaker // Foxeye
Opinions are strictly those of my wife....I have had no input whatsoever.
Remove capital A from chipmAkr for correct email address

... you can always disengage the
tiller tine drive and attach a snow blade or make a hitch and pull a
wagon etc. Just look at it as a sort of 2 wheel tractor with
limitations.

I am now dreaming of all the weird and wonderful uses I will be able
to put my 2 wheel tractor to...and I"m sure the neighbors will get
good amusement from all of them (both the successes and failures).

How fast can these things go when your not tilling?

Thanks,

don

Normally they will go about as dast a a person can normally walk or a
bit faster. They are not made for speed, but when transporting itself
from shed to garden they move at a pretty decent clip, just fast
enough to be able to keep up with.

On 9 Sep 2003 07:22:43 -0700, (don schad)
wrote:

x- ... you can always disengage the
x- tiller tine drive and attach a snow blade or make a hitch and pull a
x- wagon etc. Just look at it as a sort of 2 wheel tractor with
x- limitations.
x-
x-I am now dreaming of all the weird and wonderful uses I will be able
x-to put my 2 wheel tractor to...and I"m sure the neighbors will get
x-good amusement from all of them (both the successes and failures).
x-
x-How fast can these things go when your not tilling?
x-
x-Thanks,
x-
x-don

--
Visit my website:
http://www.frugalmachinist.com
Contents: foundry and general metal working and lots of related projects.
Regards
Roy aka Chipmaker // Foxeye
Opinions are strictly those of my wife....I have had no input whatsoever.
Remove capital A from chipmAkr for correct email address

Got a Huskee 6.5 hp ohv with a PTO, forward and reverse-tine (came from
Tractor Supply).
2 miles per hour. =



don schad wrote:
=

... you can always disengage the
tiller tine drive and attach a snow blade or make a hitch and pull a
wagon etc. Just look at it as a sort of 2 wheel tractor with
limitations.
=

I am now dreaming of all the weird and wonderful uses I will be able
to put my 2 wheel tractor to...and I"m sure the neighbors will get
good amusement from all of them (both the successes and failures).
=

How fast can these things go when your not tilling?
=

Thanks,
=

don

-- =

J. Kolenovsky, A+, Network +, MCP
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