I'm a newbie, and have only looked at this site when I've had specific
problems, as we're still busy landscaping our new house. Now I'm up to the
stage where I have to pay a bit more attention to the soil, having installed
adequate drainage behind the retaining walls. Once that's completed, I
intend to create rock gardens, and intend to use rock mulch on the garden
beds, instead of the more traditional types of mulch. We live in the
southern part of Australia, where we've just come from a drought, but still
have water restrictions, and summer is just around the corner. One of my
aims is to be as conservative as possible with water, given that we've
already established a tropical garden.

With the laying down of rock mulch, I believe I'm supposed to lay weed mat
first, on top of the soil, and then lay the rocks on top of this. Is this
the best way to attain my ambition of retaining moisture below the soil?
And, other than the weeds that will inevitably grow in between the rocks in
time, is this a good way to reduce the amount of weeds? I'll be installing
drip-feed irrigation hoses just below the surface, to assist in providing
enough water to the plants. Also, there will be a "dry" rock garden creek,
in which I'll introduce a level of fall to direct additional rainwater to
these plants. (I'll lay butyl below the surface of the "dry creek" bed to
assist the water runoff to the plants along the way).

Also, does anyone have any ideas on the proximity of rocks to plants? I hope
to grow moss on some rocks, but there are a lot of palms and birds of
paradise, tree ferns, birds nest ferns and other tropical plants that might
not appreciate the proximity of sun-heated rocks near their trunks.

Thanking you in advance for your replies!

Casey.

oops, I must have posted an off post topic?

"Litl Fish" wrote in message
...
I'm a newbie, and have only looked at this site when I've had specific
problems, as we're still busy landscaping our new house. Now I'm up to the
stage where I have to pay a bit more attention to the soil, having
installed
adequate drainage behind the retaining walls. Once that's completed, I
intend to create rock gardens, and intend to use rock mulch on the garden
beds, instead of the more traditional types of mulch. We live in the
southern part of Australia, where we've just come from a drought, but
still
have water restrictions, and summer is just around the corner. One of my
aims is to be as conservative as possible with water, given that we've
already established a tropical garden.

With the laying down of rock mulch, I believe I'm supposed to lay weed mat
first, on top of the soil, and then lay the rocks on top of this. Is this
the best way to attain my ambition of retaining moisture below the soil?
And, other than the weeds that will inevitably grow in between the rocks
in
time, is this a good way to reduce the amount of weeds? I'll be installing
drip-feed irrigation hoses just below the surface, to assist in providing
enough water to the plants. Also, there will be a "dry" rock garden creek,
in which I'll introduce a level of fall to direct additional rainwater to
these plants. (I'll lay butyl below the surface of the "dry creek" bed to
assist the water runoff to the plants along the way).

Also, does anyone have any ideas on the proximity of rocks to plants? I
hope
to grow moss on some rocks, but there are a lot of palms and birds of
paradise, tree ferns, birds nest ferns and other tropical plants that
might
not appreciate the proximity of sun-heated rocks near their trunks.

Thanking you in advance for your replies!

Casey.

It all depends upon how you wish to treat the soil, or how you wish to grow
your plants. For example, the Gotelli Conifer Collection at the National
Arboretum is mulched in granite gravel without a weed barrier. The drainage
is decent, and as the granite slowly decomposes its adding acidity to the
soil. It supresses weeds somewhat, and those that do spring up are easily
pulled. How weedy is the soil to begin with?

Perhaps a good compromise would be to lay down a generous layer of newspaper
or cardboard first, then the gravel on top. The paper barrier will block
weeds for several years if not heavily worked, and as it decomposes it
enriches the soil somewhat. Other biodegradable weed barriers include Curlex
and jutte blankets...

Dave

"Litl Fish" wrote in message
...
oops, I must have posted an off post topic?

"Litl Fish" wrote in message
...
I'm a newbie, and have only looked at this site when I've had specific
problems, as we're still busy landscaping our new house. Now I'm up to
the
stage where I have to pay a bit more attention to the soil, having
installed
adequate drainage behind the retaining walls. Once that's completed, I
intend to create rock gardens, and intend to use rock mulch on the
garden
beds, instead of the more traditional types of mulch. We live in the
southern part of Australia, where we've just come from a drought, but
still
have water restrictions, and summer is just around the corner. One of my
aims is to be as conservative as possible with water, given that we've
already established a tropical garden.

With the laying down of rock mulch, I believe I'm supposed to lay weed
mat
first, on top of the soil, and then lay the rocks on top of this. Is
this
the best way to attain my ambition of retaining moisture below the soil?
And, other than the weeds that will inevitably grow in between the rocks
in
time, is this a good way to reduce the amount of weeds? I'll be
installing
drip-feed irrigation hoses just below the surface, to assist in
providing
enough water to the plants. Also, there will be a "dry" rock garden
creek,
in which I'll introduce a level of fall to direct additional rainwater
to
these plants. (I'll lay butyl below the surface of the "dry creek" bed
to
assist the water runoff to the plants along the way).

Also, does anyone have any ideas on the proximity of rocks to plants? I
hope
to grow moss on some rocks, but there are a lot of palms and birds of
paradise, tree ferns, birds nest ferns and other tropical plants that
might
not appreciate the proximity of sun-heated rocks near their trunks.

Thanking you in advance for your replies!

Casey.

Thanks David,
Yeah, I'd read about granite increasing acidity, as well as marble and
limestone too. I've already got a lot of "river rock", a black rock rounded
by the actions of the waves, coming from the coast! as well as slate and
sandstone (these two will be going onto a concrete based path and wall) One
reason I want to use river rock as mulch is that I can intersperse larger
rocks around, which might help hold the smaller ones in place. The problem
isn't so much that they'll fall out of the raised/terraced garden beds, as
the soil level is about 3 to 4 inches below the top of the retaining walls,
but that I've got a very exuberant Staffordshire Bull Terrier, who loves to
run around everywhere. I have to let her run around these gardens, as I've
already fenced off the herb garden from her. Thus the rounded rocks, which
won't be so hard on her paws.

Thanks for your tips on newspaper, I've been saving some for some time, so
should have enough soon. And it'll sure save money! I cleared the weeds a
fortnight ago, but I notice that the front garden (cleared the week before)
is already resprouting weeds. So, for now, it's relatively weed free, and I
intend to keep it that way for a while. I'm yet to lay down some more
drainage and electricity and water cables for a future rock water garden, as
well as below surface drip feed irrigation lines, which will give me an
opportunity to add more compost to the heavy clay.

Once again, thanks for your comments, I think I'll go newspaper instead of
weed mat! I've looked up Curlex, and in Australia, it's a hair product, and
jute is only available for insulation, and rather expensive. Hmm, maybe one
day we'll learn.

Regards,
Casey


"David J Bockman" wrote in message
...
It all depends upon how you wish to treat the soil, or how you wish to
grow
your plants. For example, the Gotelli Conifer Collection at the National
Arboretum is mulched in granite gravel without a weed barrier. The
drainage
is decent, and as the granite slowly decomposes its adding acidity to the
soil. It supresses weeds somewhat, and those that do spring up are easily
pulled. How weedy is the soil to begin with?

Perhaps a good compromise would be to lay down a generous layer of
newspaper
or cardboard first, then the gravel on top. The paper barrier will block
weeds for several years if not heavily worked, and as it decomposes it
enriches the soil somewhat. Other biodegradable weed barriers include
Curlex
and jutte blankets...

Dave

"Litl Fish" wrote in message
...
oops, I must have posted an off post topic?

"Litl Fish" wrote in message
...
I'm a newbie, and have only looked at this site when I've had specific
problems, as we're still busy landscaping our new house. Now I'm up to
the
stage where I have to pay a bit more attention to the soil, having
installed
adequate drainage behind the retaining walls. Once that's completed, I
intend to create rock gardens, and intend to use rock mulch on the
garden
beds, instead of the more traditional types of mulch. We live in the
southern part of Australia, where we've just come from a drought, but
still
have water restrictions, and summer is just around the corner. One of
my
aims is to be as conservative as possible with water, given that we've
already established a tropical garden.

With the laying down of rock mulch, I believe I'm supposed to lay weed
mat
first, on top of the soil, and then lay the rocks on top of this. Is
this
the best way to attain my ambition of retaining moisture below the
soil?
And, other than the weeds that will inevitably grow in between the
rocks
in
time, is this a good way to reduce the amount of weeds? I'll be
installing
drip-feed irrigation hoses just below the surface, to assist in
providing
enough water to the plants. Also, there will be a "dry" rock garden
creek,
in which I'll introduce a level of fall to direct additional rainwater
to
these plants. (I'll lay butyl below the surface of the "dry creek" bed
to
assist the water runoff to the plants along the way).

Also, does anyone have any ideas on the proximity of rocks to plants?
I
hope
to grow moss on some rocks, but there are a lot of palms and birds of
paradise, tree ferns, birds nest ferns and other tropical plants that
might
not appreciate the proximity of sun-heated rocks near their trunks.

Thanking you in advance for your replies!

Casey.

Thanks David,
Yeah, I'd read about granite increasing acidity, as well as marble and
limestone too. I've already got a lot of "river rock", a black rock rounded
by the actions of the waves, coming from the coast! as well as slate and
sandstone (these two will be going onto a concrete based path and wall) One
reason I want to use river rock as mulch is that I can intersperse larger
rocks around, which might help hold the smaller ones in place. The problem
isn't so much that they'll fall out of the raised/terraced garden beds, as
the soil level is about 3 to 4 inches below the top of the retaining walls,
but that I've got a very exuberant Staffordshire Bull Terrier, who loves to
run around everywhere. I have to let her run around these gardens, as I've
already fenced off the herb garden from her. Thus the rounded rocks, which
won't be so hard on her paws.

Thanks for your tips on newspaper, I've been saving some for some time, so
should have enough soon. And it'll sure save money! I cleared the weeds a
fortnight ago, but I notice that the front garden (cleared the week before)
is already resprouting weeds. So, for now, it's relatively weed free, and I
intend to keep it that way for a while. I'm yet to lay down some more
drainage and electricity and water cables for a future rock water garden, as
well as below surface drip feed irrigation lines, which will give me an
opportunity to add more compost to the heavy clay.

Once again, thanks for your comments, I think I'll go newspaper instead of
weed mat! I've looked up Curlex, and in Australia, it's a hair product, and
jute is only available for insulation, and rather expensive. Hmm, maybe one
day we'll learn.

Regards,
Casey


"David J Bockman" wrote in message
...
It all depends upon how you wish to treat the soil, or how you wish to
grow
your plants. For example, the Gotelli Conifer Collection at the National
Arboretum is mulched in granite gravel without a weed barrier. The
drainage
is decent, and as the granite slowly decomposes its adding acidity to the
soil. It supresses weeds somewhat, and those that do spring up are easily
pulled. How weedy is the soil to begin with?

Perhaps a good compromise would be to lay down a generous layer of
newspaper
or cardboard first, then the gravel on top. The paper barrier will block
weeds for several years if not heavily worked, and as it decomposes it
enriches the soil somewhat. Other biodegradable weed barriers include
Curlex
and jutte blankets...

Dave

"Litl Fish" wrote in message
...
oops, I must have posted an off post topic?

"Litl Fish" wrote in message
...
I'm a newbie, and have only looked at this site when I've had specific
problems, as we're still busy landscaping our new house. Now I'm up to
the
stage where I have to pay a bit more attention to the soil, having
installed
adequate drainage behind the retaining walls. Once that's completed, I
intend to create rock gardens, and intend to use rock mulch on the
garden
beds, instead of the more traditional types of mulch. We live in the
southern part of Australia, where we've just come from a drought, but
still
have water restrictions, and summer is just around the corner. One of
my
aims is to be as conservative as possible with water, given that we've
already established a tropical garden.

With the laying down of rock mulch, I believe I'm supposed to lay weed
mat
first, on top of the soil, and then lay the rocks on top of this. Is
this
the best way to attain my ambition of retaining moisture below the
soil?
And, other than the weeds that will inevitably grow in between the
rocks
in
time, is this a good way to reduce the amount of weeds? I'll be
installing
drip-feed irrigation hoses just below the surface, to assist in
providing
enough water to the plants. Also, there will be a "dry" rock garden
creek,
in which I'll introduce a level of fall to direct additional rainwater
to
these plants. (I'll lay butyl below the surface of the "dry creek" bed
to
assist the water runoff to the plants along the way).

Also, does anyone have any ideas on the proximity of rocks to plants?
I
hope
to grow moss on some rocks, but there are a lot of palms and birds of
paradise, tree ferns, birds nest ferns and other tropical plants that
might
not appreciate the proximity of sun-heated rocks near their trunks.

Thanking you in advance for your replies!

Casey.

1. Granite rock will increase acidity, but limestone will not.

2. Beware of river rock or gravel, you have to be certain of the source. If
it came from brackish waters or near the open ocean, chances are that it
contains an intolerable amount of sodium that would kill your plants failry
quickly.

3. You'll get waves of weed infestations after the initial clean up, both
because opportunistic, fast growing weeds spring up in the now oepn soil,
and because you've triggered germination in weed seeds that have lain
dormant below the soil. As you ride herd on them their numbers will diminish
over time.

Reads as if you have a good handle on the project, let us know how it turns
out, including pictures!

Dave


"Litl Fish" wrote in message
...
Thanks David,
Yeah, I'd read about granite increasing acidity, as well as marble and
limestone too. I've already got a lot of "river rock", a black rock
rounded
by the actions of the waves, coming from the coast! as well as slate and
sandstone (these two will be going onto a concrete based path and wall)
One
reason I want to use river rock as mulch is that I can intersperse larger
rocks around, which might help hold the smaller ones in place. The problem
isn't so much that they'll fall out of the raised/terraced garden beds, as
the soil level is about 3 to 4 inches below the top of the retaining
walls,
but that I've got a very exuberant Staffordshire Bull Terrier, who loves
to
run around everywhere. I have to let her run around these gardens, as I've
already fenced off the herb garden from her. Thus the rounded rocks, which
won't be so hard on her paws.

Thanks for your tips on newspaper, I've been saving some for some time, so
should have enough soon. And it'll sure save money! I cleared the weeds a
fortnight ago, but I notice that the front garden (cleared the week
before)
is already resprouting weeds. So, for now, it's relatively weed free, and
I
intend to keep it that way for a while. I'm yet to lay down some more
drainage and electricity and water cables for a future rock water garden,
as
well as below surface drip feed irrigation lines, which will give me an
opportunity to add more compost to the heavy clay.

Once again, thanks for your comments, I think I'll go newspaper instead of
weed mat! I've looked up Curlex, and in Australia, it's a hair product,
and
jute is only available for insulation, and rather expensive. Hmm, maybe
one
day we'll learn.

Regards,
Casey


"David J Bockman" wrote in message
...
It all depends upon how you wish to treat the soil, or how you wish to
grow
your plants. For example, the Gotelli Conifer Collection at the National
Arboretum is mulched in granite gravel without a weed barrier. The
drainage
is decent, and as the granite slowly decomposes its adding acidity to
the
soil. It supresses weeds somewhat, and those that do spring up are
easily
pulled. How weedy is the soil to begin with?

Perhaps a good compromise would be to lay down a generous layer of
newspaper
or cardboard first, then the gravel on top. The paper barrier will block
weeds for several years if not heavily worked, and as it decomposes it
enriches the soil somewhat. Other biodegradable weed barriers include
Curlex
and jutte blankets...

Dave

"Litl Fish" wrote in message
...
oops, I must have posted an off post topic?

"Litl Fish" wrote in message
...
I'm a newbie, and have only looked at this site when I've had
specific
problems, as we're still busy landscaping our new house. Now I'm up
to
the
stage where I have to pay a bit more attention to the soil, having
installed
adequate drainage behind the retaining walls. Once that's completed,
I
intend to create rock gardens, and intend to use rock mulch on the
garden
beds, instead of the more traditional types of mulch. We live in the
southern part of Australia, where we've just come from a drought,
but
still
have water restrictions, and summer is just around the corner. One
of
my
aims is to be as conservative as possible with water, given that
we've
already established a tropical garden.

With the laying down of rock mulch, I believe I'm supposed to lay
weed
mat
first, on top of the soil, and then lay the rocks on top of this. Is
this
the best way to attain my ambition of retaining moisture below the
soil?
And, other than the weeds that will inevitably grow in between the
rocks
in
time, is this a good way to reduce the amount of weeds? I'll be
installing
drip-feed irrigation hoses just below the surface, to assist in
providing
enough water to the plants. Also, there will be a "dry" rock garden
creek,
in which I'll introduce a level of fall to direct additional
rainwater
to
these plants. (I'll lay butyl below the surface of the "dry creek"
bed
to
assist the water runoff to the plants along the way).

Also, does anyone have any ideas on the proximity of rocks to
plants?
I
hope
to grow moss on some rocks, but there are a lot of palms and birds
of
paradise, tree ferns, birds nest ferns and other tropical plants
that
might
not appreciate the proximity of sun-heated rocks near their trunks.

Thanking you in advance for your replies!

Casey.

limestone and marble will bring the pH up. why powdered limestone is used.

"David J Bockman" wrote:

1. Granite rock will increase acidity, but limestone will not.

2. Beware of river rock or gravel, you have to be certain of the source. If
it came from brackish waters or near the open ocean, chances are that it
contains an intolerable amount of sodium that would kill your plants failry
quickly.

3. You'll get waves of weed infestations after the initial clean up, both
because opportunistic, fast growing weeds spring up in the now oepn soil,
and because you've triggered germination in weed seeds that have lain
dormant below the soil. As you ride herd on them their numbers will diminish
over time.

Reads as if you have a good handle on the project, let us know how it turns
out, including pictures!

Dave


"Litl Fish" wrote in message
...
Thanks David,
Yeah, I'd read about granite increasing acidity, as well as marble and
limestone too. I've already got a lot of "river rock", a black rock
rounded
by the actions of the waves, coming from the coast! as well as slate and
sandstone (these two will be going onto a concrete based path and wall)
One
reason I want to use river rock as mulch is that I can intersperse larger
rocks around, which might help hold the smaller ones in place. The problem
isn't so much that they'll fall out of the raised/terraced garden beds, as
the soil level is about 3 to 4 inches below the top of the retaining
walls,
but that I've got a very exuberant Staffordshire Bull Terrier, who loves
to
run around everywhere. I have to let her run around these gardens, as I've
already fenced off the herb garden from her. Thus the rounded rocks, which
won't be so hard on her paws.

Thanks for your tips on newspaper, I've been saving some for some time, so
should have enough soon. And it'll sure save money! I cleared the weeds a
fortnight ago, but I notice that the front garden (cleared the week
before)
is already resprouting weeds. So, for now, it's relatively weed free, and
I
intend to keep it that way for a while. I'm yet to lay down some more
drainage and electricity and water cables for a future rock water garden,
as
well as below surface drip feed irrigation lines, which will give me an
opportunity to add more compost to the heavy clay.

Once again, thanks for your comments, I think I'll go newspaper instead of
weed mat! I've looked up Curlex, and in Australia, it's a hair product,
and
jute is only available for insulation, and rather expensive. Hmm, maybe
one
day we'll learn.

Regards,
Casey


"David J Bockman" wrote in message
...
It all depends upon how you wish to treat the soil, or how you wish to
grow
your plants. For example, the Gotelli Conifer Collection at the National
Arboretum is mulched in granite gravel without a weed barrier. The
drainage
is decent, and as the granite slowly decomposes its adding acidity to
the
soil. It supresses weeds somewhat, and those that do spring up are
easily
pulled. How weedy is the soil to begin with?

Perhaps a good compromise would be to lay down a generous layer of
newspaper
or cardboard first, then the gravel on top. The paper barrier will block
weeds for several years if not heavily worked, and as it decomposes it
enriches the soil somewhat. Other biodegradable weed barriers include
Curlex
and jutte blankets...

Dave

"Litl Fish" wrote in message
...
oops, I must have posted an off post topic?

"Litl Fish" wrote in message
...
I'm a newbie, and have only looked at this site when I've had
specific
problems, as we're still busy landscaping our new house. Now I'm up
to
the
stage where I have to pay a bit more attention to the soil, having
installed
adequate drainage behind the retaining walls. Once that's completed,
I
intend to create rock gardens, and intend to use rock mulch on the
garden
beds, instead of the more traditional types of mulch. We live in the
southern part of Australia, where we've just come from a drought,
but
still
have water restrictions, and summer is just around the corner. One
of
my
aims is to be as conservative as possible with water, given that
we've
already established a tropical garden.

With the laying down of rock mulch, I believe I'm supposed to lay
weed
mat
first, on top of the soil, and then lay the rocks on top of this. Is
this
the best way to attain my ambition of retaining moisture below the
soil?
And, other than the weeds that will inevitably grow in between the
rocks
in
time, is this a good way to reduce the amount of weeds? I'll be
installing
drip-feed irrigation hoses just below the surface, to assist in
providing
enough water to the plants. Also, there will be a "dry" rock garden
creek,
in which I'll introduce a level of fall to direct additional
rainwater
to
these plants. (I'll lay butyl below the surface of the "dry creek"
bed
to
assist the water runoff to the plants along the way).

Also, does anyone have any ideas on the proximity of rocks to
plants?
I
hope
to grow moss on some rocks, but there are a lot of palms and birds
of
paradise, tree ferns, birds nest ferns and other tropical plants
that
might
not appreciate the proximity of sun-heated rocks near their trunks.

Thanking you in advance for your replies!

Casey.












~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List
http://puregold.aquaria.net/
www.drsolo.com
Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other
compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the
endorsements or recommendations I make.

"Litl Fish" wrote in message
...
Thanks David,
Yeah, I'd read about granite increasing acidity, as well as marble and
limestone too. I've already got a lot of "river rock", a black rock
rounded
by the actions of the waves, coming from the coast! as well as slate and
sandstone (these two will be going onto a concrete based path and wall)
One
reason I want to use river rock as mulch is that I can intersperse
larger
rocks around, which might help hold the smaller ones in place. The
problem
isn't so much that they'll fall out of the raised/terraced garden beds,
as
the soil level is about 3 to 4 inches below the top of the retaining
walls,
but that I've got a very exuberant Staffordshire Bull Terrier, who loves
to
run around everywhere. I have to let her run around these gardens, as
I've
already fenced off the herb garden from her. Thus the rounded rocks,
which
won't be so hard on her paws.

Thanks for your tips on newspaper, I've been saving some for some time,
so
should have enough soon. And it'll sure save money! I cleared the weeds
a
fortnight ago, but I notice that the front garden (cleared the week
before)
is already resprouting weeds. So, for now, it's relatively weed free,
and I
intend to keep it that way for a while. I'm yet to lay down some more
drainage and electricity and water cables for a future rock water
garden, as
well as below surface drip feed irrigation lines, which will give me an
opportunity to add more compost to the heavy clay.

Once again, thanks for your comments, I think I'll go newspaper instead
of
weed mat! I've looked up Curlex, and in Australia, it's a hair product,
and
jute is only available for insulation, and rather expensive. Hmm, maybe
one
day we'll learn.

Regards,
Casey


"David J Bockman" wrote in message
...
It all depends upon how you wish to treat the soil, or how you wish to
grow
your plants. For example, the Gotelli Conifer Collection at the
National
Arboretum is mulched in granite gravel without a weed barrier. The
drainage
is decent, and as the granite slowly decomposes its adding acidity to
the
soil. It supresses weeds somewhat, and those that do spring up are
easily
pulled. How weedy is the soil to begin with?

Perhaps a good compromise would be to lay down a generous layer of
newspaper
or cardboard first, then the gravel on top. The paper barrier will
block
weeds for several years if not heavily worked, and as it decomposes it
enriches the soil somewhat. Other biodegradable weed barriers include
Curlex
and jutte blankets...

Dave

"Litl Fish" wrote in message
...
oops, I must have posted an off post topic?

"Litl Fish" wrote in message
...
I'm a newbie, and have only looked at this site when I've had
specific
problems, as we're still busy landscaping our new house. Now I'm
up to
the
stage where I have to pay a bit more attention to the soil, having
installed
adequate drainage behind the retaining walls. Once that's
completed, I
intend to create rock gardens, and intend to use rock mulch on the
garden
beds, instead of the more traditional types of mulch. We live in
the
southern part of Australia, where we've just come from a drought,
but
still
have water restrictions, and summer is just around the corner. One
of
my
aims is to be as conservative as possible with water, given that
we've
already established a tropical garden.

With the laying down of rock mulch, I believe I'm supposed to lay
weed
mat
first, on top of the soil, and then lay the rocks on top of this.
Is
this
the best way to attain my ambition of retaining moisture below the
soil?
And, other than the weeds that will inevitably grow in between the
rocks
in
time, is this a good way to reduce the amount of weeds? I'll be
installing
drip-feed irrigation hoses just below the surface, to assist in
providing
enough water to the plants. Also, there will be a "dry" rock
garden
creek,
in which I'll introduce a level of fall to direct additional
rainwater
to
these plants. (I'll lay butyl below the surface of the "dry creek"
bed
to
assist the water runoff to the plants along the way).

Also, does anyone have any ideas on the proximity of rocks to
plants?
I
hope
to grow moss on some rocks, but there are a lot of palms and birds
of
paradise, tree ferns, birds nest ferns and other tropical plants
that
might
not appreciate the proximity of sun-heated rocks near their
trunks.

Thanking you in advance for your replies!

Casey.








If you check with your local Newspaper Printer You may be able to get free
"end rolls" of newspaper, unprinted. The rolls are too small to leave on
the big presses and are given away by some newspapers. They are great for
packing material for dishes when moving as the dishes don't have newsprint
on em and don't have to be washed. It would be easy to unroll in the
garden.
Nanzi

Thanks Olde Hippee,

I've just spent a whole heap of money on mulch for our herb garden, the soil
was drying out too fast, but I'll use the rest on another patch. Now, your
idea about the printers is excellent, because that'll save a heap of money.
As it is, I've been convinced by a friend who's got an immaculate garden, to
use newspaper as mulch. His plants and garden set up would make Burke's
Backyard green (oh, is that a pun?) with envy. He sure has got a green
thumb.

All I have to do is wait for the temperature to drop a bit, as it's
currently over 35C (or 100F) outside, and that's just the right temperature
to survey things with a beer in hand, especially on a Sunday afternoon.
Thanks for the advice!
Casey

"Olde Hippee" wrote in message
...

"Litl Fish" wrote in message
...
Thanks David,
Yeah, I'd read about granite increasing acidity, as well as marble and
limestone too. I've already got a lot of "river rock", a black rock
rounded
by the actions of the waves, coming from the coast! as well as slate and
sandstone (these two will be going onto a concrete based path and wall)
One
reason I want to use river rock as mulch is that I can intersperse
larger
rocks around, which might help hold the smaller ones in place. The
problem
isn't so much that they'll fall out of the raised/terraced garden beds,
as
the soil level is about 3 to 4 inches below the top of the retaining
walls,
but that I've got a very exuberant Staffordshire Bull Terrier, who loves
to
run around everywhere. I have to let her run around these gardens, as
I've
already fenced off the herb garden from her. Thus the rounded rocks,
which
won't be so hard on her paws.

Thanks for your tips on newspaper, I've been saving some for some time,
so
should have enough soon. And it'll sure save money! I cleared the weeds
a
fortnight ago, but I notice that the front garden (cleared the week
before)
is already resprouting weeds. So, for now, it's relatively weed free,
and I
intend to keep it that way for a while. I'm yet to lay down some more
drainage and electricity and water cables for a future rock water
garden, as
well as below surface drip feed irrigation lines, which will give me an
opportunity to add more compost to the heavy clay.

Once again, thanks for your comments, I think I'll go newspaper instead
of
weed mat! I've looked up Curlex, and in Australia, it's a hair product,
and
jute is only available for insulation, and rather expensive. Hmm, maybe
one
day we'll learn.

Regards,
Casey


"David J Bockman" wrote in message
...
It all depends upon how you wish to treat the soil, or how you wish to
grow
your plants. For example, the Gotelli Conifer Collection at the
National
Arboretum is mulched in granite gravel without a weed barrier. The
drainage
is decent, and as the granite slowly decomposes its adding acidity to
the
soil. It supresses weeds somewhat, and those that do spring up are
easily
pulled. How weedy is the soil to begin with?

Perhaps a good compromise would be to lay down a generous layer of
newspaper
or cardboard first, then the gravel on top. The paper barrier will
block
weeds for several years if not heavily worked, and as it decomposes it
enriches the soil somewhat. Other biodegradable weed barriers include
Curlex
and jutte blankets...

Dave

"Litl Fish" wrote in message
...
oops, I must have posted an off post topic?

"Litl Fish" wrote in message
...
I'm a newbie, and have only looked at this site when I've had
specific
problems, as we're still busy landscaping our new house. Now I'm
up to
the
stage where I have to pay a bit more attention to the soil, having
installed
adequate drainage behind the retaining walls. Once that's
completed, I
intend to create rock gardens, and intend to use rock mulch on the
garden
beds, instead of the more traditional types of mulch. We live in
the
southern part of Australia, where we've just come from a drought,
but
still
have water restrictions, and summer is just around the corner. One
of
my
aims is to be as conservative as possible with water, given that
we've
already established a tropical garden.

With the laying down of rock mulch, I believe I'm supposed to lay
weed
mat
first, on top of the soil, and then lay the rocks on top of this.
Is
this
the best way to attain my ambition of retaining moisture below the
soil?
And, other than the weeds that will inevitably grow in between the
rocks
in
time, is this a good way to reduce the amount of weeds? I'll be
installing
drip-feed irrigation hoses just below the surface, to assist in
providing
enough water to the plants. Also, there will be a "dry" rock
garden
creek,
in which I'll introduce a level of fall to direct additional
rainwater
to
these plants. (I'll lay butyl below the surface of the "dry creek"
bed
to
assist the water runoff to the plants along the way).

Also, does anyone have any ideas on the proximity of rocks to
plants?
I
hope
to grow moss on some rocks, but there are a lot of palms and birds
of
paradise, tree ferns, birds nest ferns and other tropical plants
that
might
not appreciate the proximity of sun-heated rocks near their
trunks.

Thanking you in advance for your replies!

Casey.








If you check with your local Newspaper Printer You may be able to get free
"end rolls" of newspaper, unprinted. The rolls are too small to leave on
the big presses and are given away by some newspapers. They are great for
packing material for dishes when moving as the dishes don't have newsprint
on em and don't have to be washed. It would be easy to unroll in the
garden.
Nanzi