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Edible Seasonal Passive Sunshade
I would appreciate any suggestions, ideas, or criticisms of the idea of
using a trellis & wire system to support vines (climbing or drooping) to shade a rooftop and house side walls in Zone 7 (hot & humid). Would suspended planters for droopers also work? Furthermore, if anyone has information on suitable candidates for an edible sunshade, please post it. Thank you. |
In article ,
jetgraphics wrote: I would appreciate any suggestions, ideas, or criticisms of the idea of using a trellis & wire system to support vines (climbing or drooping) to shade a rooftop and house side walls in Zone 7 (hot & humid). Would suspended planters for droopers also work? Furthermore, if anyone has information on suitable candidates for an edible sunshade, please post it. Thank you. Consider Malabar Spinach an annual. Grapes may be of interest also. Mix in moon flowers and other flowering vines for interest...NOT Edible. Bill -- Zone 5 S Jersey USA Shade garden in a Japanese manner Vision problems? http://www.ocutech.com/ Tell folks where to get your files FREE at http://www.DropLoad.com "oeuf tot pique " Lover |
William Wagner wrote:
In article , jetgraphics wrote: I would appreciate any suggestions, ideas, or criticisms of the idea of using a trellis & wire system to support vines (climbing or drooping) to shade a rooftop and house side walls in Zone 7 (hot & humid). Would suspended planters for droopers also work? Furthermore, if anyone has information on suitable candidates for an edible sunshade, please post it. Thank you. Consider Malabar Spinach an annual. Grapes may be of interest also. Mix in moon flowers and other flowering vines for interest...NOT Edible. Bill Kudzu is edible, vining, grows fast and I believe it does VERY well in Zone 7. April Fools. But seriously I'm sure you know better than to plant Kudzu. In addition to the above, Not quite edible, perhaps useful if you brew your own beer though, is hops. You could train some indeterminate tomatos, some pole beans, maybe a small melon or summer squash?? Lots of plants that are edible have a vining habit. Troy |
In article ,
jetgraphics wrote: I would appreciate any suggestions, ideas, or criticisms of the idea of using a trellis & wire system to support vines (climbing or drooping) to shade a rooftop and house side walls in Zone 7 (hot & humid). Would suspended planters for droopers also work? Furthermore, if anyone has information on suitable candidates for an edible sunshade, please post it. Thank you. Grapevines? :-) The only problem with those is that they lose their leaves in the winter. You could also try Passiflora edulis or Passiflora incarnata. Those both produce edible fruits, and they tend to be evergreen. My Passiflora cerulea stayed green all winter thru 4 or 5 good freezes. I want to find some of the other two species and get them planted here as well. Plastic lattice as a trellis looks nice and is more durable than wood lattice. It's more expensive but lasts forever, and it comes in colors! -- K. Sprout the Mung Bean to reply... There is no need to change the world. All we have to do is toilet train the world and we'll never have to change it again. -- Swami Beyondanada ,,Cat's Haven Hobby Farm,,Katraatcenturyteldotnet,, http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...user id=katra |
Katra wrote:
In article , jetgraphics wrote: I would appreciate any suggestions, ideas, or criticisms of the idea of using a trellis & wire system to support vines (climbing or drooping) to shade a rooftop and house side walls in Zone 7 (hot & humid). Would suspended planters for droopers also work? Furthermore, if anyone has information on suitable candidates for an edible sunshade, please post it. Thank you. Grapevines? :-) The only problem with those is that they lose their leaves in the winter. You could also try Passiflora edulis or Passiflora incarnata. Those both produce edible fruits, and they tend to be evergreen. My Passiflora cerulea stayed green all winter thru 4 or 5 good freezes. I want to find some of the other two species and get them planted here as well. Plastic lattice as a trellis looks nice and is more durable than wood lattice. It's more expensive but lasts forever, and it comes in colors! From an energy conservation standpoint, losing the leaves in the fall is a good thing. In the hot sunny weather the foliage shades the house. In the cool winter weather with the foliage gone the sun warms the building. Troy |
In article t,
Troy Lubbers wrote: Katra wrote: In article , jetgraphics wrote: I would appreciate any suggestions, ideas, or criticisms of the idea of using a trellis & wire system to support vines (climbing or drooping) to shade a rooftop and house side walls in Zone 7 (hot & humid). Would suspended planters for droopers also work? Furthermore, if anyone has information on suitable candidates for an edible sunshade, please post it. Thank you. Grapevines? :-) The only problem with those is that they lose their leaves in the winter. You could also try Passiflora edulis or Passiflora incarnata. Those both produce edible fruits, and they tend to be evergreen. My Passiflora cerulea stayed green all winter thru 4 or 5 good freezes. I want to find some of the other two species and get them planted here as well. Plastic lattice as a trellis looks nice and is more durable than wood lattice. It's more expensive but lasts forever, and it comes in colors! From an energy conservation standpoint, losing the leaves in the fall is a good thing. In the hot sunny weather the foliage shades the house. In the cool winter weather with the foliage gone the sun warms the building. Troy I actually did think about that... :-) It's just that I find my naked grapevines in the winter to be none too attractive. lol I know my neighbor chopped out all of the ones that had spread to the trees in his yard. I don't think he would have done that if he knew that they were going to leaf out again. He probably thought that they were dead. I'm letting them go up into the trees on this side of the fence! Besides, the blooms on passion vines are just gorgeous!!! Here was my very first one ever that bloomed this year. I planted the vine in a 5 gallon pot next to my greenhouse late last summer: http://home.centurytel.net/Katraslin...ionFlower2.jpg -- K. Sprout the Mung Bean to reply... There is no need to change the world. All we have to do is toilet train the world and we'll never have to change it again. -- Swami Beyondanada ,,Cat's Haven Hobby Farm,,Katraatcenturyteldotnet,, http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...user id=katra |
In article t,
Troy Lubbers wrote: In addition to the above, Not quite edible, perhaps useful if you brew your own beer though, is hops. You could train some indeterminate tomatos, some pole beans, maybe a small melon or summer squash?? Lots of plants that are edible have a vining habit. Troy Hops is difficult to get rid of in a short period of time. Creeps about in a manner similar to poison ivy. Runners..Cucumbers can be trained to vine too. Bill -- Zone 5 S Jersey USA Shade garden in a Japanese manner Vision problems? http://www.ocutech.com/ Tell folks where to get your files FREE at http://www.DropLoad.com "oeuf tôt pique " Lover |
jetgraphics wrote:
I would appreciate any suggestions, ideas, or criticisms of the idea of using a trellis & wire system to support vines (climbing or drooping) to shade a rooftop and house side walls in Zone 7 (hot & humid). No idea where Zone 7 is. Have you tried the "choko" |
"jetgraphics" wrote in message ... I would appreciate any suggestions, ideas, or criticisms of the idea of using a trellis & wire system to support vines (climbing or drooping) to shade a rooftop and house side walls in Zone 7 (hot & humid). Would suspended planters for droopers also work? Furthermore, if anyone has information on suitable candidates for an edible sunshade, please post it. You said you'd be interested in criticisms as well as suggestions. I've tried planting a couple of viny things near the house will less than ideal results, though neither was edible. One was ivy. The stuff crawls everywhere, and the day I found it growing _into_ the den on the ground floor was the day I decided to get rid of it. It managed to get a tendril into the house where the frame meets the foundation. The other was a fast growing vine that put out masses of small white flowers, don't remember the name. Pretty, but it managed to work it's way up the house behind the siding and into the cellar both by the same way the ivy got into the house and by growing through the space where the cellar windows met the window frames. My Dad planted wisteria so that it would climb up the pillars supporting the little roof over the front door. He had the same sort of problem - the plant is invasive and persistent, it doesn't stay just on the outside of the house, it'll worm it's way through any little crack or gap. You apparently want something pretty hefty if you want to shade the roof as well as the sides of the house, and I'd guess you don't want to start fresh every year so you'd also want it to be perennial.. I can see it prying off the siding. If you have a brick or stone house, it'll try to creep in the windows. If it makes it to the roof, it'll pry the shingles off. You want shade, plant some trees. Make sure they're not too close to the house. |
"jetgraphics" wrote in message ... I would appreciate any suggestions, ideas, or criticisms of the idea of using a trellis & wire system to support vines (climbing or drooping) to shade a rooftop and house side walls in Zone 7 (hot & humid). Would suspended planters for droopers also work? Furthermore, if anyone has information on suitable candidates for an edible sunshade, please post it. Kiwis would be a good choice (if you're willing to consider perennials). There are hardy varieties than can be grown to zone 4, or the more familiar fuzzy varieties, which are hardy to zone 8 and might be ok in zone 7 if you got lucky. They're fairly attractive and grow quickly, but take a while before they'll start giving fruit. But would be lower maintenance than annual vines, and you'll eventually get a lot more height out of them. The problem you will run into with most typical climbing vegetables is that they don't grow *that* tall. You might be able to get about 8 ft out of pole beans, and 10-15 ft out of some types of runner beans, but that'll be about it. Curcubits (squash, cukes, pumpkins, etc.) will probably top out at around 6-8 ft. They (both beans and curcubits) also are fairly prone to a variety of pests: leaf-eating insects, soil dwelling insects, and various mildews and so on. Doesn't mean you shouldn't try them; just means they're one of those plants that can be hit-or-miss, even for experienced gardeners. If I were you, I'd experiment with the edible shade concept for now, but also plant a proper row of quick-maturing shade trees. By the time the trees get taller than the crop plants, you'll probably be sick of trying to grow dinner on the side of your house and be ready to move your efforts to a proper garden space. |
DrLith wrote:
"jetgraphics" wrote in message ... I would appreciate any suggestions, ideas, or criticisms of the idea of using a trellis & wire system to support vines (climbing or drooping) to shade a rooftop and house side walls in Zone 7 (hot & humid). Would suspended planters for droopers also work? Furthermore, if anyone has information on suitable candidates for an edible sunshade, please post it. Kiwis would be a good choice (if you're willing to consider perennials). There are hardy varieties than can be grown to zone 4, or the more familiar fuzzy varieties, which are hardy to zone 8 and might be ok in zone 7 if you got lucky. They're fairly attractive and grow quickly, but take a while before they'll start giving fruit. But would be lower maintenance than annual vines, and you'll eventually get a lot more height out of them. The problem you will run into with most typical climbing vegetables is that they don't grow *that* tall. You might be able to get about 8 ft out of pole beans, and 10-15 ft out of some types of runner beans, but that'll be about it. Curcubits (squash, cukes, pumpkins, etc.) will probably top out at around 6-8 ft. don't know about that, but I'm in zone 11, and kabocha and chayote grow much much longer than that here. I have kabocha vines that are more than 50 feet from where I planted them (but they are on the ground). They (both beans and curcubits) also are fairly prone to a variety of pests: leaf-eating insects, soil dwelling insects, and various mildews and so on. Doesn't mean you shouldn't try them; just means they're one of those plants that can be hit-or-miss, even for experienced gardeners. add slugs and fruit flies, at least here. If I were you, I'd experiment with the edible shade concept for now, but also plant a proper row of quick-maturing shade trees. what isn't clear to me in the question asked is whether this was only for verticals (walls) or also for horizontals ('celing') in which case cucurbites may be somewhat counterproductive as they may fall on your head (so will of course passion fruit) eventually, and they can get heavy. Maren, in Hilo, HI (I don't think kiwis grow here, otherwise I'd love to have some of those too) |
On Fri, 01 Apr 2005 17:38:52 -0500, jetgraphics
wrote: I would appreciate any suggestions, ideas, or criticisms of the idea of using a trellis & wire system to support vines (climbing or drooping) to shade a rooftop and house side walls in Zone 7 (hot & humid). Would suspended planters for droopers also work? Furthermore, if anyone has information on suitable candidates for an edible sunshade, please post it. Thank you. I use Thompson Seedless grapes on trellises. Plenty bushy, plenty shady, need little to no water, makes wine, grapes, raisins. Gunner Rule #35 "That which does not kill you, has made a huge tactical error" |
On Fri, 1 Apr 2005 20:51:01 -0500, "Lou"
wrote: "jetgraphics" wrote in message ... I would appreciate any suggestions, ideas, or criticisms of the idea of using a trellis & wire system to support vines (climbing or drooping) to shade a rooftop and house side walls in Zone 7 (hot & humid). Would suspended planters for droopers also work? Furthermore, if anyone has information on suitable candidates for an edible sunshade, please post it. You said you'd be interested in criticisms as well as suggestions. I've tried planting a couple of viny things near the house will less than ideal results, though neither was edible. One was ivy. The stuff crawls everywhere, and the day I found it growing _into_ the den on the ground floor was the day I decided to get rid of it. It managed to get a tendril into the house where the frame meets the foundation. The other was a fast growing vine that put out masses of small white flowers, don't remember the name. Pretty, but it managed to work it's way up the house behind the siding and into the cellar both by the same way the ivy got into the house and by growing through the space where the cellar windows met the window frames. My Dad planted wisteria so that it would climb up the pillars supporting the little roof over the front door. He had the same sort of problem - the plant is invasive and persistent, it doesn't stay just on the outside of the house, it'll worm it's way through any little crack or gap. You apparently want something pretty hefty if you want to shade the roof as well as the sides of the house, and I'd guess you don't want to start fresh every year so you'd also want it to be perennial.. I can see it prying off the siding. If you have a brick or stone house, it'll try to creep in the windows. If it makes it to the roof, it'll pry the shingles off. You want shade, plant some trees. Make sure they're not too close to the house. Honeysuckle is sorta nice and moderatly easy to maintain where you want it. But its not edible. Smells really nice though. Gunner Rule #35 "That which does not kill you, has made a huge tactical error" |
Check with your county agricultural extension office. It may be listed
under the state college (in New York, it is Cornell Extension office). Their information and publications are mostly free and will be geared to your exact location. They also usually are the base for 4-H groups and you could get information through them. In China, they grow grape vines that shade pig runs. The floor of the runs (cement) is slightly sloped so that when hosed down, the water and manure flow to water and fertilize the vines. Multiple use. JonquilJan Learn something new every day As long as you are learning, you are living When you stop learning, you start dying Lou wrote in message ... "jetgraphics" wrote in message ... I would appreciate any suggestions, ideas, or criticisms of the idea of using a trellis & wire system to support vines (climbing or drooping) to shade a rooftop and house side walls in Zone 7 (hot & humid). Would suspended planters for droopers also work? Furthermore, if anyone has information on suitable candidates for an edible sunshade, please post it. You said you'd be interested in criticisms as well as suggestions. I've tried planting a couple of viny things near the house will less than ideal results, though neither was edible. One was ivy. The stuff crawls everywhere, and the day I found it growing _into_ the den on the ground floor was the day I decided to get rid of it. It managed to get a tendril into the house where the frame meets the foundation. The other was a fast growing vine that put out masses of small white flowers, don't remember the name. Pretty, but it managed to work it's way up the house behind the siding and into the cellar both by the same way the ivy got into the house and by growing through the space where the cellar windows met the window frames. My Dad planted wisteria so that it would climb up the pillars supporting the little roof over the front door. He had the same sort of problem - the plant is invasive and persistent, it doesn't stay just on the outside of the house, it'll worm it's way through any little crack or gap. You apparently want something pretty hefty if you want to shade the roof as well as the sides of the house, and I'd guess you don't want to start fresh every year so you'd also want it to be perennial.. I can see it prying off the siding. If you have a brick or stone house, it'll try to creep in the windows. If it makes it to the roof, it'll pry the shingles off. You want shade, plant some trees. Make sure they're not too close to the house. |
Katra wrote:
Grapevines? :-) The only problem with those is that they lose their leaves in the winter. Losing leaves is a good thing. Lets in winter sunshine. The subject did specify "seasonal passive sunshade". |
Lou wrote in reply:
I would appreciate any suggestions, ideas, or criticisms of the idea of using a trellis & wire system to support vines (climbing or drooping) to shade a rooftop and house side walls in Zone 7 (hot & humid). Would suspended planters for droopers also work? snipped You apparently want something pretty hefty if you want to shade the roof as well as the sides of the house, and I'd guess you don't want to start fresh every year BTW - annuals are not a problem if I can get to the planter. so you'd also want it to be perennial.. I can see it prying off the siding. NO siding. If you have a brick or stone house, it'll try to creep in the windows. If it makes it to the roof, it'll pry the shingles off. No shingles. The house in question will have a concrete foam sandwich wall and roof deck. And the plants would not be anchored to the house or roof, but to amn offset trellis, wires, or arbor, etc., or suspended from pots hanging from an armature. In essence, the foliage will form a shell, with an airspace between. Any suggestions on minimum / maximum spacing between a wall and a trellis? You want shade, plant some trees. Shade trees aren't the best solution in this area. Unfortunately, due to the clay soil, trees are susceptible to knockdown after soaking rains and windstorms. Plus the east / west walls need side shading more than overhead shading. Make sure they're not too close to the house. That's a good point. I know folks who had removed a mature tree, and found their basement suddenly started flooding. Apparently the tree was sucking out the excess moisture. |
jetgraphics wrote: I would appreciate any suggestions, ideas, or criticisms of the idea of using a trellis & wire system to support vines (climbing or drooping) to shade a rooftop and house side walls in Zone 7 (hot & humid). Would suspended planters for droopers also work? Furthermore, if anyone has information on suitable candidates for an edible sunshade, please post it. Thank you. Pasta Beleive it or not pasta makes a great seasonal sunshade, it is edible, and can be colored to suit. Pasta comes in many varieties: macaroni, spaghetti, and lasagne, to name three. You can cover your whole house in pasta, and after the summer, you can bring it inside and cook up some wonderful and tastey meals, to last the winter. http://www.tdc.ca/pasta.htm Where does spaghetti come from? Switzerland. Thanks to a very mild winter and the virtual elimination of the dreaded spaghetti weevil, Swiss farmers were enjoying a bumper spaghetti crop. They are literally pulling strands of spaghetti down from their spaghetti trees. So, there you have it pasta is my choice for a sunshade. You'll have to contact the Swiss if you want a spaghetti tree. http://www.istockphoto.com/file_closeup.php?id=299048 :/ |
Katra wrote: In article , jetgraphics wrote: I would appreciate any suggestions, ideas, or criticisms of the idea of using a trellis & wire system to support vines (climbing or drooping) to shade a rooftop and house side walls in Zone 7 (hot & humid). Would suspended planters for droopers also work? Furthermore, if anyone has information on suitable candidates for an edible sunshade, please post it. Thank you. Grapevines? :-) The only problem with those is that they lose their leaves in the winter. You could also try Passiflora edulis or Passiflora incarnata. Those both produce edible fruits, and they tend to be evergreen. My Passiflora cerulea stayed green all winter thru 4 or 5 good freezes. I want to find some of the other two species and get them planted here as well. Plastic lattice as a trellis looks nice and is more durable than wood lattice. It's more expensive but lasts forever, and it comes in colors! Any suggestions on how to get Passiflora edulis seeds to sprout. I received a bunch as a gift last fall, so far I've tried pete tabs and sowing them straight into potting soil in 4 inch pots. So far nary a sprout is to be seen. Should I pre-soak the seeds? score them, soak them in alcohol or peroxide? Thanks in advance. David |
David writes:
Any suggestions on how to get Passiflora edulis seeds to sprout. I received a bunch as a gift last fall, so far I've tried pete tabs and sowing them straight into potting soil in 4 inch pots. So far nary a sprout is to be seen. Should I pre-soak the seeds? score them, soak them in alcohol or peroxide? Urine works a treat. Soak them in urine for 3 days. |
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Chayote (sp?) Vigorous vine. Very edible.
John! jetgraphics wrote: I would appreciate any suggestions, ideas, or criticisms of the idea of using a trellis & wire system to support vines (climbing or drooping) to shade a rooftop and house side walls in Zone 7 (hot & humid). Would suspended planters for droopers also work? Furthermore, if anyone has information on suitable candidates for an edible sunshade, please post it. Thank you. |
In article ,
jetgraphics wrote: Lou wrote in reply: snipped You apparently want something pretty hefty if you want to shade the roof as well as the sides of the house, and I'd guess you don't want to start fresh every year [ ... ] The house in question will have a concrete foam sandwich wall and roof deck. And the plants would not be anchored to the house or roof, but to amn offset trellis, wires, or arbor, etc., or suspended from pots hanging from an armature. In essence, the foliage will form a shell, with an airspace between. That's going to have to be a pretty hefty shell, just to be freestanding all the way around. Are you planning on a wood structure, or steel pipe and I-beams? How big is this going to be? Any suggestions on minimum / maximum spacing between a wall and a trellis? I'd allow at least four feet, both for ease of access during harvest and pruning and to minimize the likelyhood of creepers bridging the gap. You want shade, plant some trees. Shade trees aren't the best solution in this area. Unfortunately, due to the clay soil, trees are susceptible to knockdown after soaking rains and windstorms. Use trees with tap roots--like pecans. When planting, dig a hole as deep as you can with a posthole digger (rent a power augur if doing more than a few holes; much less work, and you can go deeper). Dump a pound or two of fertilizer into the holes, then add 10-15 gallons of water (I just fill the hole a couple of times). Break up some of the clay from the holes, mix with some peat moss, compost, topsoil, and a bit of plant food; use this to backfill the hole and surround the tree roots when you plant the tree. Save a bit of the mix for filling in around the trees, as the mix will settle. Use the leftover clay for landscaping. This approach gives the tree a good environment to start growing, an easy path for the tap root to follow, and a great boost at the bottom to really anchor it. And, using pecans also means a crop to gather in late fall. Pecans should be planted at least 40' apart. Plus the east / west walls need side shading more than overhead shading. So will the south wall. Make sure they're not too close to the house. That's a good point. I know folks who had removed a mature tree, and found their basement suddenly started flooding. Apparently the tree was sucking out the excess moisture. Sounds like a few roots were growing near or into the foundation and became conduits for water when they rotted out. Roots can leave some big holes, and they don't close up quickly in hard soil like clay. I have more filling work to do in my back yard from that very problem. Gary -- Gary Heston Windows is like SUVs; a bad idea, poorly implemented, unsafe, with a lot of inept users, but a fact of life we have to put up with. |
Frank White wrote:
Kudzu is edible, vining, grows fast and I believe it does VERY well in Zone 7. April Fools. But seriously I'm sure you know better than to plant Kudzu. If Kudzu WERE edible, world hungry would be a distant memory. All the starving hordes in China could not eat those vines as fast as they can regrow... As it is, flamethrowers and nuclear weapons may be our only hope. O_O FW Ah.. but Kudzu IS edible. It is a legume, and every part of the plant can be eaten. I have never had it myself since I am from the non-Kudzu blighted zone 4. But you can eat the 'bean', the leaves, the root, and as I understand it, in its native parts of Asia it actually is a desirable culinary plant. Here is a page I found listing some 'recipes' for Kudzu. Perhaps this summer if you're from the South you can reduce your grocery bill eh? My Google search did turn up other pages with recipes, happy hunting. http://www.kudzucuisine.com/ Troy |
Gary Heston wrote:
In article , jetgraphics wrote: Lou wrote in reply: In essence, the foliage will form a shell, with an airspace between. That's going to have to be a pretty hefty shell, just to be freestanding all the way around. Are you planning on a wood structure, or steel pipe and I-beams? Ferrocement catenary tubes for the roof top http://karen.top.net.nz/echo/Default.htm How big is this going to be? Vaulted arch on 28' x 28' footprint, height hasn't been decided Any suggestions on minimum / maximum spacing between a wall and a trellis? I'd allow at least four feet, both for ease of access during harvest and pruning and to minimize the likelyhood of creepers bridging the gap. Use trees with tap roots--like pecans. When planting, dig a hole as deep as you can with a posthole digger (rent a power augur if doing more than a few holes; much less work, and you can go deeper). Dump a pound or two of fertilizer into the holes, then add 10-15 gallons of water (I just fill the hole a couple of times). Break up some of the clay from the holes, mix with some peat moss, compost, topsoil, and a bit of plant food; use this to backfill the hole and surround the tree roots when you plant the tree. Save a bit of the mix for filling in around the trees, as the mix will settle. Use the leftover clay for landscaping. This approach gives the tree a good environment to start growing, an easy path for the tap root to follow, and a great boost at the bottom to really anchor it. And, using pecans also means a crop to gather in late fall. Pecans should be planted at least 40' apart. |
In article ,
David wrote: Katra wrote: In article , jetgraphics wrote: I would appreciate any suggestions, ideas, or criticisms of the idea of using a trellis & wire system to support vines (climbing or drooping) to shade a rooftop and house side walls in Zone 7 (hot & humid). Would suspended planters for droopers also work? Furthermore, if anyone has information on suitable candidates for an edible sunshade, please post it. Thank you. Grapevines? :-) The only problem with those is that they lose their leaves in the winter. You could also try Passiflora edulis or Passiflora incarnata. Those both produce edible fruits, and they tend to be evergreen. My Passiflora cerulea stayed green all winter thru 4 or 5 good freezes. I want to find some of the other two species and get them planted here as well. Plastic lattice as a trellis looks nice and is more durable than wood lattice. It's more expensive but lasts forever, and it comes in colors! Any suggestions on how to get Passiflora edulis seeds to sprout. I received a bunch as a gift last fall, so far I've tried pete tabs and sowing them straight into potting soil in 4 inch pots. So far nary a sprout is to be seen. Should I pre-soak the seeds? score them, soak them in alcohol or peroxide? Thanks in advance. David I am new to passiflora... so have no experience (yet) to pass on. Did a brief google tho' and this site looks promising for this: http://www.passionflow.co.uk/seed211.htm I am hoping to get seeds this year, but will also experiment with starting from cuttings. Mine is P. cerulea. -- K. Sprout the Mung Bean to reply... There is no need to change the world. All we have to do is toilet train the world and we'll never have to change it again. -- Swami Beyondanada ,,Cat's Haven Hobby Farm,,Katraatcenturyteldotnet,, http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...user id=katra |
you have many edible choices. I would only have a perennial vine, so I
would not consider Malabar spinach or chayote. Besides grapes, hardy kiwis (but not fuzzy kiwis, unless it is a sheltered location - they will take 20F for short periods, no more), akebia, and schizandra. Hardy kiwis and schizandra are the best looking plants. |
On Sat, 02 Apr 2005 16:30:36 -0600, Katra
wrote: snip Kudzu IS edible!!! Seriously. Do some googling on it. It also makes fantastic graze for both cattle and sheep. How to Grow Kudzu http://www.locksley.com/kudzu.htm I've seen recent articles on great success in controlling kudzu using sheep. Lots of sheep! -- "A Springfield woman who began lobbying against gun violence after her son was shot to death in 2002 was arrested last week when police allegedly found an illegal gun and drugs in her home." --- The State Journal-Register Online - Springfield, Illinois, 1 March 2005. More details at: http://www.tincher.to/stevens.htm |
"Troy Lubbers" wrote in message k.net... Ah.. but Kudzu IS edible. It is a legume, and every part of the plant can be eaten. I have never had it myself since I am from the non-Kudzu blighted zone 4. But you can eat the 'bean', the leaves, the root, and as I understand it, in its native parts of Asia it actually is a desirable culinary plant. Here is a page I found listing some 'recipes' for Kudzu. Perhaps this summer if you're from the South you can reduce your grocery bill eh? My Google search did turn up other pages with recipes, happy hunting. http://www.kudzucuisine.com/ Looking at the nutritional composition of the kudzu powder described on the site, it appears to have an insane amount of fiber. Like, 5 times as much as an equivalent amount (calorie-wise) of whole wheat flour or 3 times as much as an equivalent amt. of pinto beans. So I imagine it's kind of "woody." |
jetgraphics wrote: I would appreciate any suggestions, ideas, or criticisms of the idea of using a trellis & wire system to support vines (climbing or drooping) to shade a rooftop and house side walls in Zone 7 (hot & humid). Would suspended planters for droopers also work? Furthermore, if anyone has information on suitable candidates for an edible sunshade, please post it. Thank you. Cascade Hops. Put them in your homebrewed beer. Also, string beans, tomatoes, cucumbers, squash and melons will climb a trellis. Consider dipper gourds and loofahs. |
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In article
. com, says... you have many edible choices. I would only have a perennial vine, so I would not consider Malabar spinach or chayote. Besides grapes, hardy kiwis (but not fuzzy kiwis, unless it is a sheltered location - they will take 20F for short periods, no more), akebia, and schizandra. Hardy kiwis and schizandra are the best looking plants. Noooo... the edible thing "kiwifruit." A "kiwi" is bird (supposedly named after the sound it makes.) Also, "kiwi" can mean a human from New Zealand. The bird-type kiwi is the national bird, and legally protected. And eating the human-type kiwi went out of style about 150 years ago. -- NZ Site http://www.nzsite.co.nz Your Guide To New Zealand |
Just a thought. We used wire one year to allow climbers to climb. Burnt the
stems. And we are only in zone 5b. -- Dana www3.sympatico.ca/lostmermaid "jetgraphics" wrote in message ... I would appreciate any suggestions, ideas, or criticisms of the idea of using a trellis & wire system to support vines (climbing or drooping) to shade a rooftop and house side walls in Zone 7 (hot & humid). Would suspended planters for droopers also work? Furthermore, if anyone has information on suitable candidates for an edible sunshade, please post it. Thank you. |
Katra wrote:
In article , David wrote: Katra wrote: In article , jetgraphics wrote: I would appreciate any suggestions, ideas, or criticisms of the idea of using a trellis & wire system to support vines (climbing or drooping) to shade a rooftop and house side walls in Zone 7 (hot & humid). Would suspended planters for droopers also work? Furthermore, if anyone has information on suitable candidates for an edible sunshade, please post it. Thank you. Grapevines? :-) The only problem with those is that they lose their leaves in the winter. You could also try Passiflora edulis or Passiflora incarnata. Those both produce edible fruits, and they tend to be evergreen. My Passiflora cerulea stayed green all winter thru 4 or 5 good freezes. I want to find some of the other two species and get them planted here as well. Plastic lattice as a trellis looks nice and is more durable than wood lattice. It's more expensive but lasts forever, and it comes in colors! Any suggestions on how to get Passiflora edulis seeds to sprout. I received a bunch as a gift last fall, so far I've tried pete tabs and sowing them straight into potting soil in 4 inch pots. So far nary a sprout is to be seen. Should I pre-soak the seeds? score them, soak them in alcohol or peroxide? Thanks in advance. David I am new to passiflora... so have no experience (yet) to pass on. Did a brief google tho' and this site looks promising for this: http://www.passionflow.co.uk/seed211.htm I am hoping to get seeds this year, but will also experiment with starting from cuttings. Mine is P. cerulea. Thanks for the link. I'd done some searching previously, but had not seen this page. Looks like I have some experimentation ahead of me. Good luck with your P. cerulea. |
In article
.com , says... jetgraphics wrote: I would appreciate any suggestions, ideas, or criticisms of the idea of using a trellis & wire system to support vines (climbing or drooping) to shade a rooftop and house side walls in Zone 7 (hot & humid). Would suspended planters for droopers also work? Furthermore, if anyone has information on suitable candidates for an edible sunshade, please post it. Thank you. Cascade Hops. Put them in your homebrewed beer. Also, string beans, tomatoes, cucumbers, squash and melons will climb a trellis. Consider dipper gourds and loofahs. Maybe try peas. Edible, and also have nice flowers. -- Get Credit Where Credit Is Due http://www.cardreport.com/ Credit Tools, Reference, and Forum |
David said the following on 03/04/2005 04:38 pm:
Katra wrote: In article , David wrote: Katra wrote: In article , jetgraphics wrote: I would appreciate any suggestions, ideas, or criticisms of the idea of using a trellis & wire system to support vines (climbing or drooping) to shade a rooftop and house side walls in Zone 7 (hot & humid). Would suspended planters for droopers also work? Furthermore, if anyone has information on suitable candidates for an edible sunshade, please post it. Thank you. snip I am hoping to get seeds this year, but will also experiment with starting from cuttings. Mine is P. cerulea. Thanks for the link. I'd done some searching previously, but had not seen this page. Looks like I have some experimentation ahead of me. Good luck with your P. cerulea. http://www.pfaf.org/ Plants for a future has a database of over 7000 useful plants. Might be worth a look at. Andy |
In article ,
David wrote: Katra wrote: In article , David wrote: Katra wrote: In article , jetgraphics wrote: I would appreciate any suggestions, ideas, or criticisms of the idea of using a trellis & wire system to support vines (climbing or drooping) to shade a rooftop and house side walls in Zone 7 (hot & humid). Would suspended planters for droopers also work? Furthermore, if anyone has information on suitable candidates for an edible sunshade, please post it. Thank you. Grapevines? :-) The only problem with those is that they lose their leaves in the winter. You could also try Passiflora edulis or Passiflora incarnata. Those both produce edible fruits, and they tend to be evergreen. My Passiflora cerulea stayed green all winter thru 4 or 5 good freezes. I want to find some of the other two species and get them planted here as well. Plastic lattice as a trellis looks nice and is more durable than wood lattice. It's more expensive but lasts forever, and it comes in colors! Any suggestions on how to get Passiflora edulis seeds to sprout. I received a bunch as a gift last fall, so far I've tried pete tabs and sowing them straight into potting soil in 4 inch pots. So far nary a sprout is to be seen. Should I pre-soak the seeds? score them, soak them in alcohol or peroxide? Thanks in advance. David I am new to passiflora... so have no experience (yet) to pass on. Did a brief google tho' and this site looks promising for this: http://www.passionflow.co.uk/seed211.htm I am hoping to get seeds this year, but will also experiment with starting from cuttings. Mine is P. cerulea. Thanks for the link. I'd done some searching previously, but had not seen this page. Looks like I have some experimentation ahead of me. Good luck with your P. cerulea. Thank you! :-) I'm currently attempting hand pollination of some blossoms to try to induce fruiting. I want to try seed propagation, but am also planning on playing around with air layering for clone propagation. -- K. Sprout the Mung Bean to reply... There is no need to change the world. All we have to do is toilet train the world and we'll never have to change it again. -- Swami Beyondanada ,,Cat's Haven Hobby Farm,,Katraatcenturyteldotnet,, http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...user id=katra |
Katra wrote: In article , David wrote: Katra wrote: In article , David wrote: Katra wrote: In article , jetgraphics wrote: I would appreciate any suggestions, ideas, or criticisms of the idea of using a trellis & wire system to support vines (climbing or drooping) to shade a rooftop and house side walls in Zone 7 (hot & humid). Would suspended planters for droopers also work? Furthermore, if anyone has information on suitable candidates for an edible sunshade, please post it. Thank you. Grapevines? :-) The only problem with those is that they lose their leaves in the winter. You could also try Passiflora edulis or Passiflora incarnata. Those both produce edible fruits, and they tend to be evergreen. My Passiflora cerulea stayed green all winter thru 4 or 5 good freezes. I want to find some of the other two species and get them planted here as well. Plastic lattice as a trellis looks nice and is more durable than wood lattice. It's more expensive but lasts forever, and it comes in colors! Any suggestions on how to get Passiflora edulis seeds to sprout. I received a bunch as a gift last fall, so far I've tried pete tabs and sowing them straight into potting soil in 4 inch pots. So far nary a sprout is to be seen. Should I pre-soak the seeds? score them, soak them in alcohol or peroxide? Thanks in advance. David I am new to passiflora... so have no experience (yet) to pass on. Did a brief google tho' and this site looks promising for this: http://www.passionflow.co.uk/seed211.htm I am hoping to get seeds this year, but will also experiment with starting from cuttings. Mine is P. cerulea. Thanks for the link. I'd done some searching previously, but had not seen this page. Looks like I have some experimentation ahead of me. Good luck with your P. cerulea. Thank you! :-) I'm currently attempting hand pollination of some blossoms to try to induce fruiting. I want to try seed propagation, but am also planning on playing around with air layering for clone propagation. And here I thought I'd just throw some seed in the ground and get some passion fruit. And to think, I used to collect the fruit in the wild when I lived in Hawai'i. There were at least three varieties I knew where stands of them were. Oh well. At least I know the work will be well worth it. But clone propogation? You are way ahead of me there. |
In article ,
David wrote: Katra wrote: In article , David wrote: Katra wrote: In article , David wrote: Katra wrote: In article , jetgraphics wrote: I would appreciate any suggestions, ideas, or criticisms of the idea of using a trellis & wire system to support vines (climbing or drooping) to shade a rooftop and house side walls in Zone 7 (hot & humid). Would suspended planters for droopers also work? Furthermore, if anyone has information on suitable candidates for an edible sunshade, please post it. Thank you. Grapevines? :-) The only problem with those is that they lose their leaves in the winter. You could also try Passiflora edulis or Passiflora incarnata. Those both produce edible fruits, and they tend to be evergreen. My Passiflora cerulea stayed green all winter thru 4 or 5 good freezes. I want to find some of the other two species and get them planted here as well. Plastic lattice as a trellis looks nice and is more durable than wood lattice. It's more expensive but lasts forever, and it comes in colors! Any suggestions on how to get Passiflora edulis seeds to sprout. I received a bunch as a gift last fall, so far I've tried pete tabs and sowing them straight into potting soil in 4 inch pots. So far nary a sprout is to be seen. Should I pre-soak the seeds? score them, soak them in alcohol or peroxide? Thanks in advance. David I am new to passiflora... so have no experience (yet) to pass on. Did a brief google tho' and this site looks promising for this: http://www.passionflow.co.uk/seed211.htm I am hoping to get seeds this year, but will also experiment with starting from cuttings. Mine is P. cerulea. Thanks for the link. I'd done some searching previously, but had not seen this page. Looks like I have some experimentation ahead of me. Good luck with your P. cerulea. Thank you! :-) I'm currently attempting hand pollination of some blossoms to try to induce fruiting. I want to try seed propagation, but am also planning on playing around with air layering for clone propagation. And here I thought I'd just throw some seed in the ground and get some passion fruit. And to think, I used to collect the fruit in the wild when I lived in Hawai'i. There were at least three varieties I knew where stands of them were. Oh well. At least I know the work will be well worth it. But clone propogation? You are way ahead of me there. shrugs It's often easier and faster, hence more rewarding than seed propagation. My two Wisteria vines are a perfect example! 5 years old started from seed and only 12" tall. :-P I bought a good book by Rodale's on plant propagation and it's very very well written! Air layering seems to be the most promising for a lot of perrennials. Just take a small pot of good soil, (I plan to use Miracle Grow) and place it near the main vine or plant. Choose a nice section of vine or whatever, and select a promising joint where the leaves are coming out. Remove the leaves and stuff that section an inch or so into the soil, then just leave it alone for a period of time until that section sprouts roots into the soil. That can then be cut from the "mother plant" to make a new plant. :-) Seems to be a bit more sure than cutting propagation using rooting compound. Kat -- K. Sprout the Mung Bean to reply... There is no need to change the world. All we have to do is toilet train the world and we'll never have to change it again. -- Swami Beyondanada ,,Cat's Haven Hobby Farm,,Katraatcenturyteldotnet,, http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...user id=katra |
jetgraphics wrote:
I would appreciate any suggestions, ideas, or criticisms of the idea of using a trellis & wire system to support vines (climbing or drooping) to shade a rooftop and house side walls in Zone 7 (hot & humid). Would suspended planters for droopers also work? Furthermore, if anyone has information on suitable candidates for an edible sunshade, please post it. Thank you. Besides grapvines, you might consider pumpkins and squash. I grow pumpkins in the rear of our garden and in the sideyard, next to the house because it's that much less grass to cut. The pumpkins in the back grow on a 9 foot tall pipe trellis every year because I grow other plants on the same trellis under them - tomatoes and beans last year. (The lower level of plants is not shaded much by the pumpkins because of their much lower height and the East/West orientation of the trellis.) I don't grow monster pumpkins, just smaller, cooking pumpkins, and the fruit manages to hang quite nicely all on their own without falling off and bashing innocent bystanders. They give me a nice shady spot to boot when I "train" the vines to go up and across right where I plant my own butt on my bench by using some heavy cording. The only down side is removing the dead plants in the fall! You might also want to consider hanging planters for both vining and non-vining plants as more passive shading. That way you could have the flexibility of extending the shaded period by planting cold-weather plants in the early spring and fall. |
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