problem Willow
 

I found this:

the stump can be killed as follows: Bore holes at a slanting angle around
the top of the stump. The holes should be about one and one-half inches in
diameter and from eight to ten inches deep.


Just how are we drilling holes that size these days ?



Fill them with salt peter (nitrate of potash) or a commercial stump-killing
product. The material will spread through the stump and prevent sucker
growth from appearing. If the stump has green foliage growth on it now, you
can apply a Blackberry Vine or Brush Killer to the foliage as a first step.
Be sure this material does not touch any desirable vegetation, except the
plant suckers you are trying to destroy. Read and follow label
instructions.


You can get a "speed-bore" bit at HD or Lowe's or any hardware store for
1 1/2". They work great in a 1/2" drill motor. If all you have is a 3/8"
variable speed drill motor, begin by using a slower speed, then increase
speed as you go deeper.

BTW, since the post has returned an abundance of votes for using
RoundUp, why not save yourself a lot of money and use a product called,
"Remuda", from Monterey Lawn & Garden. Here in San Diego, RoundUp costs
$90 a gallon; Remuda costs $44.

When the patent ran out on Monsanto's formula, Monterey picked up the
ball and made the same stuff. Sew the link below:

http://search.atomz.com/search/?sp-q...1ee-sp00000002

problem Willow
 

A. Pismo Clam said:


I found this:

the stump can be killed as follows: Bore holes at a slanting angle around
the top of the stump. The holes should be about one and one-half inches in
diameter and from eight to ten inches deep.


Just how are we drilling holes that size these days ?



Fill them with salt peter (nitrate of potash) or a commercial stump-killing
product. The material will spread through the stump and prevent sucker
growth from appearing. If the stump has green foliage growth on it now, you
can apply a Blackberry Vine or Brush Killer to the foliage as a first step.
Be sure this material does not touch any desirable vegetation, except the
plant suckers you are trying to destroy. Read and follow label
instructions.


You can get a "speed-bore" bit at HD or Lowe's or any hardware store for
1 1/2". They work great in a 1/2" drill motor. If all you have is a 3/8"
variable speed drill motor, begin by using a slower speed, then increase
speed as you go deeper.

BTW, since the post has returned an abundance of votes for using
RoundUp, why not save yourself a lot of money and use a product called,
"Remuda", from Monterey Lawn & Garden. Here in San Diego, RoundUp costs
$90 a gallon; Remuda costs $44.

When the patent ran out on Monsanto's formula, Monterey picked up the
ball and made the same stuff. Sew the link below:

http://search.atomz.com/search/?sp-q...1ee-sp00000002


Yup. Spending the money on Roundup, because of the name, is foolish
anymore. Look on the label for Glyphosate. (Check the strength, though.
There are some weaker solutions, which will cost you more in the long run.)

Good advice. =)

--
Eggs

-Opportunities always look bigger going than coming.

problem Willow
 

Mike said:

"Eggs Zachtly" wrote in message
...
Mike said:

"Eric in North Texas" wrote in message
oups.com...

Other than chemicals, the only thing that has worked for me is
persistence with pruners. The roots can't survive without
photosynthesis, take away the leaves constantly and consistently and
the roots will starve to death.

My suggestion is roundup concentrate.
Pour it FULL strength on the tree, [snip]

NEVER use a concentrate "full strength". It's a "concentrate" for a
reason.
It needs to be mixed with water to be safe, and to be effective.
SOME consumer products have instructions for use at full strength, and in
this case roundup does for extremely problem weeds/vegitation.
The roundup concentrate that sits in my shop should never be put on at full
strength, becasue it would probably burn a hole straight through the earth,
and is WAY too concentrated.

Same here. Wicked stuff.

Guess I really wanted to say, "Read the entire label, twice.". =)

--
Eggs

Do vegetarians eat animal crackers?

problem Willow
 

"Mike" wrote:
"Steveo" wrote in message
...
"Mike" wrote:
The roundup concentrate that sits in my shop should never be put on
at
full strength, becasue it would probably burn a hole straight through
the earth,

Hey.. maybe next thing you know 'up from the ground comes a bubbling
crude'
just like Jed! Load up the truck and book for Beverly Hills! :)

Hmmmmm but then the MOE would probably pull up and give me a large fine
and take all my oil!

Taliban?

problem Willow
 

"A. Pismo Clam" wrote:
"Remuda", from Monterey Lawn & Garden. Here in San Diego, RoundUp costs
$90 a gallon; Remuda costs $44.

**** watered round-up. whoopie.

--
http://NewsReader.Com/

problem Willow
 

"Steveo" wrote in message
...
"Mike" wrote:
"Steveo" wrote in message
...
"Mike" wrote:
The roundup concentrate that sits in my shop should never be put on
at
full strength, becasue it would probably burn a hole straight through
the earth,

Hey.. maybe next thing you know 'up from the ground comes a bubbling
crude'
just like Jed! Load up the truck and book for Beverly Hills! :)

Hmmmmm but then the MOE would probably pull up and give me a large fine
and take all my oil!

Taliban?
haha no ministry of environment. Use of a pesticide off label can be big big
money up here.

problem Willow
 

"Loren via HomeKB.com" u27944@uwe wrote in message
news:67e8d9355824a@uwe...
Thanks everyone. I've got some good ideas here and will give them a try.
I'll be back if I can't get it to work.

In your vaired experiences, How long does this generally take to kill off
the
tree?

What I do is this, drill holes in the tree stump, fill with roundup, repeat
a few times then burry the stump in some dirt. Come back a month later and
you can almost pull the stump out by hand.

problem Willow
 

"Mike" wrote:
"Steveo" wrote in message
Taliban?

haha no ministry of environment. Use of a pesticide off label can be big
big money up here.

Hey all we need is N Korea to agree now! ha

--
http://NewsReader.Com/

problem Willow
 

"Mike" wrote:
"Loren via HomeKB.com" u27944@uwe wrote in message
news:67e8d9355824a@uwe...
Thanks everyone. I've got some good ideas here and will give them a
try. I'll be back if I can't get it to work.

In your vaired experiences, How long does this generally take to kill
off the
tree?

What I do is this, drill holes in the tree stump, fill with roundup,
repeat a few times then burry the stump in some dirt. Come back a month
later and you can almost pull the stump out by hand.

How much to have it ground down should be your next question, but carry on.

--
http://NewsReader.Com/

problem Willow
 

like others, i run a sapling war all year long with roundup. it doesnt
really kill the stump to fast ,but eventually will (years) because if it
cant have leaves it cant live. have long fence rows and find it easier
to spray saplings when little rather than cutting them down when big.
lucas

http://www.minibite.com/america/malone.htm

problem Willow
 

The issue is that it is mostly under a low deck, so traditional grinding is
not really an option.

Steveo wrote:
Thanks everyone. I've got some good ideas here and will give them a
try. I'll be back if I can't get it to work.
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
repeat a few times then burry the stump in some dirt. Come back a month
later and you can almost pull the stump out by hand.

How much to have it ground down should be your next question, but carry on.


--
Message posted via HomeKB.com
http://www.homekb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/gardens/200610/1

problem Willow
 

"Steveo" wrote in message
...
"Mike" wrote:
"Loren via HomeKB.com" u27944@uwe wrote in message
news:67e8d9355824a@uwe...
Thanks everyone. I've got some good ideas here and will give them a
try. I'll be back if I can't get it to work.

In your vaired experiences, How long does this generally take to kill
off the
tree?

What I do is this, drill holes in the tree stump, fill with roundup,
repeat a few times then burry the stump in some dirt. Come back a month
later and you can almost pull the stump out by hand.

How much to have it ground down should be your next question, but carry
on.

Under a deck though?

problem Willow
 

Mike said:

"Steveo" wrote in message
...
"Mike" wrote:
"Loren via HomeKB.com" u27944@uwe wrote in message
news:67e8d9355824a@uwe...
Thanks everyone. I've got some good ideas here and will give them a
try. I'll be back if I can't get it to work.

In your vaired experiences, How long does this generally take to kill
off the
tree?

What I do is this, drill holes in the tree stump, fill with roundup,
repeat a few times then burry the stump in some dirt. Come back a month
later and you can almost pull the stump out by hand.

How much to have it ground down should be your next question, but carry
on.

Under a deck though?

It probably should have been ground out prior to building the deck, but I
suppose that's moot. =)

If the deck is screwed together, it should still be an option. Perhaps a
bit labor-intensive, but an option nonetheless. Simply a matter of
numbering the undersides of the boards, as they're removed to make it easy
to replace them.

The problem I see with using some chemical to "dissolve" the stump, would
possibly lead to a stability problem with the deck. Nothing like a nice
cavity appearing under a foundation. Which actually brings up the question
of whether or not removing the stump from the ground will cause damage to
the deck's support areas. Sure, you could kill it off with some Roundup,
but there's still the remains of the stump to be dealt with.

A pic of the area would be a plus. =)
--
Eggs

-It is easier to get forgiveness than permission.

problem Willow
 

Admiting that in hindsight, it should have been ground before the deck. But
as I mentioned in the initial post, I had taken out stumps before and they
had stayed just stumps for years. So cutting this low enough to build a deck
over did not seem like an issue. I would have an ugly stump, but it would be
under the deck and never seen. I just wasn't familiar with WIllows - I am
now.

Don't know why I felt the need to explain this... Maybe b/c I appreciate the
help.



Eggs Zachtly wrote:
Mike said:

Under a deck though?

It probably should have been ground out prior to building the deck, but I
suppose that's moot. =)



--
Message posted via HomeKB.com
http://www.homekb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/gardens/200610/1

problem Willow
 

I'll get a pic to illustrate.

Thanks

--
Message posted via HomeKB.com
http://www.homekb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/gardens/200610/1