Aerating (or spiking)



Heavily used lawns become compacted. This impedes the free passage of air and also results in poor drainage. Root development is hindered, which becomes particularly detrimental during drought periods. Lawns, especially those on heavy soils, need spiking it least once a year to improve aeration - preferably in autumn and perhaps again in early spring.


There are a number of ways of aerating a lawn. Small areas can be satisfactorily spike using a garden fork. Traditionally sports turf experts use hollow tine forks which remove narrow plugs of turf when pushed into the lawn. The holes left are filled with lawn sand or a top-dressing. There are simple versions on the market with two to four hollow tines joined by a crossbar, mounted on a long 'pram' handle. The tool can be operated easily without bending: simply hold onto the handle and press your foot on the crossbar to push the tines into the ground.



The amateur can also use a light rotary aerating machine, which is pushed along like a lawn mower. This requires some forward pressure, and a long-handled model is easier to use than a short-handled one. You can also carry out the job by purchasing spiked boards that fit easily onto shoes and wearing these, walk up and down your lawn as systematically as possible ... good leg action is required for this though! See which of these methods suits your individual needs. Before investing in a tool, try it out first at your nearest stockist.



Finally, prevention is better than cure, so wherever possible, if you have a lawn that is easily compacted, avoid walking on it in wet weather, don't use a heavy mower and, certainly, never use a roller.





Weed control



Weeds are commonly defined as 'plants in the wrong place'. Indeed, many people like a lawn to consist of lawn grasses alone, considering anything else present to be a weed, however attractive.



Moss and broad-leaved lawn weeds can be killed by the use of a selective systemic weed killer over the whole lawn or in spot treatment. Many proprietary brands are available, suitable for use on lawns. Their systemic nature means that they are taken into the plants' transpiration system and hence work from the inside. It is therefore best to leave the lawn uncut for at least five days before application so as to ensure maximum leaf area is available for absorption.



Avoid hot dry days or rainy weather, which can both reduce the effectiveness of the herbicide. Quickest results are gained with applications between May and July, especially if the lawn is given a feed the week before, for example by watering with a soluble fertiliser. After absorbing the weed killer, the broadleaved plants often grow very fast, becoming blanched and twisted. Finally, after several weeks, they die.



It is best to avoid putting lawn clippings collected soon after treatment on the compost heap. Never be tempted to mulch plants with clippings from freshly treated lawns, as many harmful herbicidal chemicals are residual and remain active for months afterward.




The use of a well-balanced, lightweight watering can with a long dribble bar for liquid herbicide or feed saves both labour and time. Alternatively, use a hand-operated pump sprayer and lance. The application of a granular formulation of weed killer and feed (using a light push-applicator trundled along on wheels) saves considerable effort by reducing the need for filling, lifting and carrying watering cans. Most push-applicator models have 'pram' handles so can be easily controlled with one hand. Garden centres often hire out granular applicators for a small fee.



'Spot' weeding of individual weeds can be carried out mechanically using a trowel, or chemically, using a watering can and dribble bar or shield. However, the use of a 'weedwiper' glove, or a spot applicator in the form of a wick or impregnated stick at the end of a long handle, can save the need for lifting or bending and also allows for greater precision and accuracy. Link to weedkiller applicator



A word of caution. When using liquid herbicides, always take every precaution to read the label and follow the directions given exactly. Where accurate measuring, mixing and application is difficult, devise home-made measures with known volumes. Granular herbicides can be much easier to handle and measure than liquid formulations. Finally, if all this still proves too much, then perhaps you should aim to create a summer floral lawn with a sward of colourful daisies, buttercups and yarrow. At least a clover-filled lawn rarely needs watering and stays green all year long.





Feeding



In the typical British climate, where rainwater leaches plant nutrients down through the soil, all plants benefit from time to time from a boost of fertiliser. Grass is no exception. A good feed will strengthen and thicken it and improve resistance to drought, weeds, disease, moss and hard wear.



A light top-dressing fertiliser, high in nitrogen and perhaps mixed with grit, loam or peat, can be applied in spring, once the danger of frost has passed, to encourage leafy growth. In autumn, the fertiliser chosen should be relatively high in phosphates, to encourage root growth throughout the winter. This is must be applied while the grass is still actively growing.



The application of granular fertiliser using a wheeled mechanical spreader (as described above) should give an even distribution of fertiliser at a pre-selected rate much more easily than if a similar fertiliser is spread by hand - even if the lawn is measured out in metre squares beforehand to ensure uniformity of distribution. These wheeled lawn spreaders are particularly useful for people who walk with a stick or who work from a wheelchair. Consider applying a combined feed/weedkiller, to save time and effort.





Watering



For most of the year, lawns in Britain do not need watering. However, occasional dry spells in spring or summer, especially in areas of light soil, may present a need for watering in order to prevent grass from dying back, thereby weakening the lawn. Avoid frequent light watering, which encourages shallow rooting, but also avoid heavy watering, which promotes moss and disease.


Small lawns are best watered using a hosepipe with an adjustable spray nozzle, whilst a sprinkler system is ideal for a larger area. Make sure you choose a system which is easy to set nip and fit together, as well as to control There are a number of different systems on the market. Link to automated watering systems






Edging

A well-tended lawn can be considerably enhanced by neatly-trimmed edges. Long-handled edging shears are the traditional tool for the job but the slightly stooped position they require for operation can easily induce backache.



There are tools on the market, however, that avoid this problem and can be operated easily when handled from an upright posture. Electric edge trimmers, powered by rechargeable batteries are one possibility. They can be pushed or pulled and can cut tight circles or straight lines with ease. Some are managed easily with one hand, providing the user has good balance or a stick for support in the other hand.



If you prefer to kneel on the ground or a kneeling pad to do your edging, there are a number of well-designed hand lawn trimmers on the market, some being easy to grip and operate using only one hand. Lastly, do all you can to reduce the need for edging. Avoid island beds in the lawn, or narrow strips of turf.




For more Gardening Information visit:

Gardening Paradise at www.levsta.com