Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#25
|
|||
|
|||
Hard starting Briggs & Stratton 3.0 hp lawnmower engine
"muzician21" wrote in message ... Have a B&S on a 70's era Snapper 21" pusher with an aluminum deck. I believe the engine is probably 10 years newer than the rest of the mower. Maybe 10 years ago I took it to a repair shop who installed a solid state unit to replace the points. Even with the solid state ignition it was never one-pull start, but as I recall it usually started with probably 3 - 5 pulls. Now it takes probably 20 pulls or more and monkeying with the throttle. Once it fires it runs like a clock, runs up and down the speed range fine. It's also easier to re-start once it's been running - though still not one pull. Doesn't seem to use an inordinate amount of oil, no discernible smoke out the exhaust. It gets what I'd call moderate use. I'm in central Florida so it gets run bi-weekly or so during the rainy months, not at all during the months of what passes for a winter down here. I'm mechanically inclined but not well-versed on the theory of this kind of engine. I've had it broken down far enough to remove and flush the gas tank, change the points when it had points, replace the pull rope. I've change the spark plug of course. I know it should start much easier than it does. Any suggestions where to look, what to tweak? There isn't that much to it from what I can see, so it shouldn't be that difficult. I believe this mower has a lot of life left in it. Thanks for all input. As Stormin suggested I agree you should check the "air gap" on the ignition coil even though it sounds like a fuel problem. I remove the ignition coil every few years and clean the edges and magnet on the flywheel with sandpaper and coat it with a little oil or vaseline or whatever. This helps keep down the rust. I generally use three thicknesses of printer paper to adjust the air gap. Check the spark plug connector and clean out any corrosion and squeeze it a bit with pliers to ensure good contact. Sometimes the spring for the governor will get a bit stretched and can be shortened to where it just barely has tension with the engine off. Try holding the throttle all the way closed while it's running and adjust the idle speed to where it seems about right. If it's too low it may be hard to start. Also, if the throttle/choke cable has slipped it can cause the choke to be on or off when you want it the other way. Removing the head might be in order to--scrape off the carbon deposits and clean the valve seats being careful not do damage the seats. I have had success many times simply by putting some high-temp silicone on the old head gasket and reusing it. My old B&S lawnmower sounds very similar to yours but it's only 23 years old. My experience with these engines is that as long as the piston is still attached to the crankshaft they can be made to mow lawns. I was having a lot of trouble with mine in the past with hard starting and I even turned the engine sideways so I could pull the rope from the side. This arrangement also eliminated some problems with the cable moving out of adjustment as it eliminated the 90 degree turn in the cable. Also, check to be sure the blade is tight. These things need it to maintain momentum. |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
5.5 HP Briggs & Stratton Mower Engine Soaks Air Filter with Gas When Running | Lawns | |||
starting a briggs + stratton choke engine | United Kingdom | |||
Briggs & Stratton 16 HP engine-points actuating rod not moving enough ? | Lawns | |||
Briggs & Stratton Replacement Engines vs rebuilding existing engine | Lawns | |||
FS: 11 hp Briggs & Stratton engine - SOLD | North Carolina |