Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
How to pollinize?
Hello everyone ! I have a nice Phal. amboinensis X Phal. tetraspis starting to bloom right now! Nice cream color with some very tender mahogany stipe. Nice lilac like fragrance! This morning, while expecting this plant, I was thinking to put myself to a new challenge! I would like to cross this plant by itself but I don`t know where exactly we have to put the pollen? Just behind and down below the pollen sacs, there is a hole, which is, I think, connected to the ovary behind the petal and sepal! Am I right? Should I put the pollen in that littel hole? I know it can be risky and I could lose the plant but it`s a risk I`m ready to take. Thank you Claude -- |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Yes. Put the pollen in that hole. that is called a stigmatic opening by
the way. Don't use pollen from the same flower that you pollinate. Many Phals wither and drop a once the pollen has been removed. I don't know how this response is triggered. Wait until you have several flowers open and put pollen from one flower onto the stigma of another flower. I might also suggest that you choose a flower that has been open about a week to 10 days, rather than one that just opened to hold the pod. A toothpick tip can easily pick up a pollina glob if it has itself had the tip touched into the goo inside the stigmatic opening. Some of the stick stuff will adhere to the toothpick tip. Don't jab the toothpick when collecting stigmatic goo. You might damage the flower. You might collect the stigma goo from the pollen donating flower as it is going to be sacrificed anyway. You may notice that the two to four polinia are attached a semi-transparent forklike appendage when it comes off the flower. Sometimes this appendage is the devil to remove from the pollen and I don't know if it is necessary to take it off, but I always do before I collect the pollen on the tooth pick tip. I figure that you don't want anything but pollen in the hole. In nature, this little appendage has two sticky ends. One end sticks to the pollen and one end sticks to the insect that trips the pollen release cap. Once the pollen comes in contact with the sticky stigmatic goo the pollen is suppose to release but sometimes it does not and you must keep poking the toothpick into the flower, so for this reason, I remove the appendage after I collect the pollen and before I fertilize with the toothpick. I wish I could remember hat this appendage is called. I hate it when I can't remember words. You probably won't loose the plant. P amboinensis has something like a nine month capsule ripening period. However, all plants are unique and ymmv. Also, pollination takes place when the pollen is put in that hole. After 24 to 36 hours you may see that the hole has swollen closed. You may then observe that the flower begins to change, it may appear to be wilting. After about 30 days *fertilization* takes place. This is when the pollen tubes grow down into the ovary and fertilize the eggs they find there. Most capsules fail in the first 30 days. The flower and ovary wither and drop off. If this does not happen, the flower parts on amboinensis will turn green and become thick and leaf-like on the tip of the swelling ovary. (This only happens in certain subsections of the Phal genus, not every species does it) At this point you can assume you have seed, but you may have a false pregnancy. Sometimes plants carry pods to term and have no viable seed inside. Sometimes plants carry pods several months but start to abort months prior to seed ripening. Sometimes, this means there is not really any viable seed. Sometimes you can flasks the stuff you find inside such aborted pods and get a few actual protocorms. There may be a tipping point for the plant where it decides not to carry a capsule if it doesn't have sufficient viable seed. I would think with amboinensis that anything prior to about 6 months would not be worth flasking, especially if you can not verify if there is seed under a microscope. "Phalguy" wrote in message ... Hello everyone ! I have a nice Phal. amboinensis X Phal. tetraspis starting to bloom right now! Nice cream color with some very tender mahogany stipe. Nice lilac like fragrance! This morning, while expecting this plant, I was thinking to put myself to a new challenge! I would like to cross this plant by itself but I don`t know where exactly we have to put the pollen? Just behind and down below the pollen sacs, there is a hole, which is, I think, connected to the ovary behind the petal and sepal! Am I right? Should I put the pollen in that littel hole? I know it can be risky and I could lose the plant but it`s a risk I`m ready to take. Thank you Claude -- |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Yes. Put the pollen in that hole. that is called a stigmatic opening by
the way. Don't use pollen from the same flower that you pollinate. Many Phals wither and drop a once the pollen has been removed. I don't know how this response is triggered. Wait until you have several flowers open and put pollen from one flower onto the stigma of another flower. I might also suggest that you choose a flower that has been open about a week to 10 days, rather than one that just opened to hold the pod. A toothpick tip can easily pick up a pollina glob if it has itself had the tip touched into the goo inside the stigmatic opening. Some of the stick stuff will adhere to the toothpick tip. Don't jab the toothpick when collecting stigmatic goo. You might damage the flower. You might collect the stigma goo from the pollen donating flower as it is going to be sacrificed anyway. You may notice that the two to four polinia are attached a semi-transparent forklike appendage when it comes off the flower. Sometimes this appendage is the devil to remove from the pollen and I don't know if it is necessary to take it off, but I always do before I collect the pollen on the tooth pick tip. I figure that you don't want anything but pollen in the hole. In nature, this little appendage has two sticky ends. One end sticks to the pollen and one end sticks to the insect that trips the pollen release cap. Once the pollen comes in contact with the sticky stigmatic goo the pollen is suppose to release but sometimes it does not and you must keep poking the toothpick into the flower, so for this reason, I remove the appendage after I collect the pollen and before I fertilize with the toothpick. I wish I could remember hat this appendage is called. I hate it when I can't remember words. You probably won't loose the plant. P amboinensis has something like a nine month capsule ripening period. However, all plants are unique and ymmv. Also, pollination takes place when the pollen is put in that hole. After 24 to 36 hours you may see that the hole has swollen closed. You may then observe that the flower begins to change, it may appear to be wilting. After about 30 days *fertilization* takes place. This is when the pollen tubes grow down into the ovary and fertilize the eggs they find there. Most capsules fail in the first 30 days. The flower and ovary wither and drop off. If this does not happen, the flower parts on amboinensis will turn green and become thick and leaf-like on the tip of the swelling ovary. (This only happens in certain subsections of the Phal genus, not every species does it) At this point you can assume you have seed, but you may have a false pregnancy. Sometimes plants carry pods to term and have no viable seed inside. Sometimes plants carry pods several months but start to abort months prior to seed ripening. Sometimes, this means there is not really any viable seed. Sometimes you can flasks the stuff you find inside such aborted pods and get a few actual protocorms. There may be a tipping point for the plant where it decides not to carry a capsule if it doesn't have sufficient viable seed. I would think with amboinensis that anything prior to about 6 months would not be worth flasking, especially if you can not verify if there is seed under a microscope. "Phalguy" wrote in message ... Hello everyone ! I have a nice Phal. amboinensis X Phal. tetraspis starting to bloom right now! Nice cream color with some very tender mahogany stipe. Nice lilac like fragrance! This morning, while expecting this plant, I was thinking to put myself to a new challenge! I would like to cross this plant by itself but I don`t know where exactly we have to put the pollen? Just behind and down below the pollen sacs, there is a hole, which is, I think, connected to the ovary behind the petal and sepal! Am I right? Should I put the pollen in that littel hole? I know it can be risky and I could lose the plant but it`s a risk I`m ready to take. Thank you Claude -- |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Back in 1996 we discussed this on OrchidSafari. The chat transcript rambles
a bit, but I think its still pretty good. http://www.geocities.com/~marylois/archiv18.html As always, any orchid information worth reading can be found in Rebecca Northen's 'Home Orchid growing'. K Barrett "Phalguy" wrote in message ... Hello everyone ! I have a nice Phal. amboinensis X Phal. tetraspis starting to bloom right now! Nice cream color with some very tender mahogany stipe. Nice lilac like fragrance! This morning, while expecting this plant, I was thinking to put myself to a new challenge! I would like to cross this plant by itself but I don`t know where exactly we have to put the pollen? Just behind and down below the pollen sacs, there is a hole, which is, I think, connected to the ovary behind the petal and sepal! Am I right? Should I put the pollen in that littel hole? I know it can be risky and I could lose the plant but it`s a risk I`m ready to take. Thank you Claude -- |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Thank you very much !
Claude "Phalguy" wrote in message ... | | Hello everyone ! | | I have a nice Phal. amboinensis X Phal. tetraspis starting to bloom right | now! Nice cream color with some very tender mahogany stipe. Nice lilac like | fragrance! | | This morning, while expecting this plant, I was thinking to put myself to a | new challenge! I would like to cross this plant by itself but I don`t know | where exactly we have to put the pollen? | Just behind and down below the pollen sacs, there is a hole, which is, I | think, connected to the ovary behind the petal and sepal! Am I right? Should | I put the pollen in that littel hole? | | I know it can be risky and I could lose the plant but it`s a risk I`m ready | to take. | | Thank you | | Claude | | -- | | | | | | |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Ooh! Al, you sound so sexy! Do you have your wench & antennae with
you during this process? *G* Sorry, I just couldn't help myself. -- Cheers Wendy Remove PETERPAN for email reply Al wrote: Yes. Put the pollen in that hole. that is called a stigmatic opening by the way. Don't use pollen from the same flower that you pollinate. Many Phals wither and drop a once the pollen has been removed. I don't know how this response is triggered. Wait until you have several flowers open and put pollen from one flower onto the stigma of another flower. I might also suggest that you choose a flower that has been open about a week to 10 days, rather than one that just opened to hold the pod. A toothpick tip can easily pick up a pollina glob if it has itself had the tip touched into the goo inside the stigmatic opening. Some of the stick stuff will adhere to the toothpick tip. Don't jab the toothpick when collecting stigmatic goo. You might damage the flower. You might collect the stigma goo from the pollen donating flower as it is going to be sacrificed anyway. You may notice that the two to four polinia are attached a semi-transparent forklike appendage when it comes off the flower. Sometimes this appendage is the devil to remove from the pollen and I don't know if it is necessary to take it off, but I always do before I collect the pollen on the tooth pick tip. I figure that you don't want anything but pollen in the hole. In nature, this little appendage has two sticky ends. One end sticks to the pollen and one end sticks to the insect that trips the pollen release cap. Once the pollen comes in contact with the sticky stigmatic goo the pollen is suppose to release but sometimes it does not and you must keep poking the toothpick into the flower, so for this reason, I remove the appendage after I collect the pollen and before I fertilize with the toothpick. I wish I could remember hat this appendage is called. I hate it when I can't remember words. You probably won't loose the plant. P amboinensis has something like a nine month capsule ripening period. However, all plants are unique and ymmv. Also, pollination takes place when the pollen is put in that hole. After 24 to 36 hours you may see that the hole has swollen closed. You may then observe that the flower begins to change, it may appear to be wilting. After about 30 days *fertilization* takes place. This is when the pollen tubes grow down into the ovary and fertilize the eggs they find there. Most capsules fail in the first 30 days. The flower and ovary wither and drop off. If this does not happen, the flower parts on amboinensis will turn green and become thick and leaf-like on the tip of the swelling ovary. (This only happens in certain subsections of the Phal genus, not every species does it) At this point you can assume you have seed, but you may have a false pregnancy. Sometimes plants carry pods to term and have no viable seed inside. Sometimes plants carry pods several months but start to abort months prior to seed ripening. Sometimes, this means there is not really any viable seed. Sometimes you can flasks the stuff you find inside such aborted pods and get a few actual protocorms. There may be a tipping point for the plant where it decides not to carry a capsule if it doesn't have sufficient viable seed. I would think with amboinensis that anything prior to about 6 months would not be worth flasking, especially if you can not verify if there is seed under a microscope. "Phalguy" wrote in message ... Hello everyone ! I have a nice Phal. amboinensis X Phal. tetraspis starting to bloom right now! Nice cream color with some very tender mahogany stipe. Nice lilac like fragrance! This morning, while expecting this plant, I was thinking to put myself to a new challenge! I would like to cross this plant by itself but I don`t know where exactly we have to put the pollen? Just behind and down below the pollen sacs, there is a hole, which is, I think, connected to the ovary behind the petal and sepal! Am I right? Should I put the pollen in that littel hole? I know it can be risky and I could lose the plant but it`s a risk I`m ready to take. Thank you Claude -- |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Hello again!
So I did it! I decided to cross my Phal. amboinensis X Phal tetraspis with my Phal. luddemanniana var Alan! So far, the stigmatic opening ( Thanks Al ) is completely swollen and the flower is starting to get darker, to get wilt ! Finger crossed! Claude |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Hello again!
just thought I would post a follow-up.. Now, the flower has taken a yellow color and ìs very stiff ( flower was waxy before. ) The ovary , which also took a yellow tint is now getting yellow-greenish color. I can clearly see now some line ( more identation ... don`t know the name sorry ) forming along the ovary. fascinating... Claude "Phalguy" wrote in message .. . | Hello again! | | So I did it! I decided to cross my Phal. amboinensis X Phal tetraspis with | my Phal. luddemanniana var Alan! | So far, the stigmatic opening ( Thanks Al ) is completely swollen and the | flower is starting to get darker, to get wilt ! | | Finger crossed! | | Claude | | |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|