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Brand new to garden ponds
I've had zero experience with ponds and have a basic question which I
haven't found addressed anywhere online or in a book. Either I'm looking in the wrong places, my question is too dumb, or no one who's written about ponds remembers what it was like to know absolutely nothing about them. My question is this: If, as I understand it, the pond needs oxygen in the water to keep from stagnating and to support fish, and if certain plants are generally used for this purpose, and if one needs a liner in the pond to keep the water from seeping back into the earth, how are the plants to take root? Obviously they can't get any nourishment from the pond liner and would damage it if the roots penetrated it. I'm having a real problem getting a grasp on this concept. And and all help will be appreciated, as I am trying to plan my first pond. |
Brand new to garden ponds
The plants are put in a pot with dirt, usually heavy clay type, unless they
are "floaters" such as hyacinth or water lettuce - some people put gravel on the pond floor and let them root into it, instead of pots - plant roots won't penetrate the liner (with the exception of bamboo) . The floaters get nutrients from the pond water (helps to clarify it). The potted type get fed from fertilizer you give it, or from the crap collecting in the gravel on the bottom Gale :~) My question is this: If, as I understand it, the pond needs oxygen in the water to keep from stagnating and to support fish, and if certain plants are generally used for this purpose, and if one needs a liner in the pond to keep the water from seeping back into the earth, how are the plants to take root? Obviously they can't get any nourishment from the pond liner and would damage it if the roots penetrated it. I'm having a real problem getting a grasp on this concept. And and all help will be appreciated, as I am trying to plan my first pond. |
Brand new to garden ponds
"Pat" wrote in message
et... I've had zero experience with ponds and have a basic question which I haven't found addressed anywhere online or in a book. Either I'm looking in the wrong places, my question is too dumb, or no one who's written about ponds remembers what it was like to know absolutely nothing about them. My question is this: If, as I understand it, the pond needs oxygen in the water to keep from stagnating and to support fish, and if certain plants are generally used for this purpose, and if one needs a liner in the pond to keep the water from seeping back into the earth, how are the plants to take root? Obviously they can't get any nourishment from the pond liner and would damage it if the roots penetrated it. I'm having a real problem getting a grasp on this concept. And and all help will be appreciated, as I am trying to plan my first pond. You'll get lots of answers but let me try a starter. Many pond plants do fine taking nutrients from the water column. I had my hardy water lily in a pot, it outgrew it, I split it several times, tossed it in other ponds and the "babies" are doing fine without being potted. Then there are the floaters, which don't need to be potted although some can be. Anacharis is one that does well in my ponds, as well as hornwort. I think I have some Parrot's feather growing in and out of pots. Some people will argue your fish will eat the plants, which is true, but if you have goldfish (not koi) and a LOT of plants compared to fish (as I do), there should be no problem maintaining plant stock. Heck, if you lived near me I could give you a lot of excess I typically end up dumping on the compost pile! BTW one of my ponds is "in-ground", i.e., a liner on top of clay. The other two ponds are stocktanks - hard plastic. All pond plants I use work well in all my ponds. Gail near San Antonio TX USA |
Brand new to garden ponds
You have good answers.
Our main pond is cement. No root penetration! Plants float, grwo wild on the bottom or are in pots. Fish waste provides nutrients. Jim |
If you were to toss some cuttings of oxygenating, submerged aquatics on a bare, lined pond they would float about. They might get mushy with surface coating algaes, Winter freezes turn them to mush in cold climates where they freeze in ice
Given a longish growing season, they would try to grow, mass up, and extend their stems downwards, putting out roots.... Anacharis can reach four, five, six feet downwards, their roots would intermesh with leaves and pond debris, they would anchor themselves... over time their roots would make a living blanket at the pond bottom. Cabomba likewise, will push stems downwards, putting out roots whose sole task is to knot, mesh, grip anything they can, if only itself and other roots.... Hornwort won't, it does not make roots, but it would send its stems into deeper water. Winter freezes encourage it to break into fragments which sink to the bottom of the pond, to restart when next growing temps warm the pond Many aquatic plants are very adaptive, according to the growing conditions that they find themselves Regards, andy http://www.members.aol.com/abdavisnc/swglist.html http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l42/adavisus/ |
Brand new to garden ponds
Phyllis and Jim wrote, On 08/06/2008 13:58:
You have good answers. Our main pond is cement. No root penetration! Plants float, grwo wild on the bottom or are in pots. Fish waste provides nutrients. You all seem to be forgetting that a plant gains it's primary source of nutrition by fixing co2 into sugars using energy from the sun. The sugars are used as building blocks to grow, and fuel for other processes. It's roots take up water and molecules such as nitrates, phosphates and metals to help build proteins for specific processes (such as photosynthesis). Luckily for us, fish crap out those kind of goodies continuously. People often make this same mistake about carnivorous plants, completely forgetting that they are green and photosynthesise like any other plant to generate their own food. In their case, insects provide the molecules that don't exist naturally in their soils. -- DavidM www.djmorgan.org.uk |
Brand new to garden ponds
On Sat, 7 Jun 2008 20:17:15 EDT, "Pat"
wrote: My question is this: If, as I understand it, the pond needs oxygen in the water to keep from stagnating and to support fish, and if certain plants are generally used for this purpose, and if one needs a liner in the pond to keep the water from seeping back into the earth, how are the plants to take root? Obviously they can't get any nourishment from the pond liner and would damage it if the roots penetrated it. Garden ponds usually have liners to hold the water. There are more than one kind. The preformed plastic was the one I started with, but soon learned about 40 mil EPDM (like rubber) and I prefer that type now. Without a liner the pond would continually remain cloudy, since goldfish and koi were both bottom feeders and suck up dirt and spit it out looking for food in the bottom mud. Water can be oxygenated by spraying it into the air or dropping it from a water fall, flowing it down a stream or even pumping a stream through the water generates some oxygen. Mud bottom ponds (usually measured in acres) are often oxygenated by spraying the water into the air and let it fall back into the pond. Plants during daylight hours absorb carbon dioxide and release oxygen, but at night when sunlight is not available for plants to use to make plant food, the plant takes oxygen from the water and releases some carbon dioxide. This doesn't mean that plants aren't beneficial, they are and more ways than just oxygenating the water. They absorb fish wastes as plant nutrients helping to clean up the toilet bowl existence of the fish pond. There are many plants that fish keepers use, but the most popular are probably fast growing floaters, like water hyacinth, water celery and several others. That is not to discount the value of many others that require an anchor to keep them in place. I have Louisiana iris anchored to cinder blocks, their roots attach themselves to the heavier blocks and keep them upright in winds. Rush and canna lilies also work well as cleaners in some ponds, but the canna grow tall and blow over in the wind in my pond. I don't consider my potted lilies an oxygen producing or cleaning asset. I fertilize the lilies so they will bloom well, look good and shade the pond as well as providing a cover for the fish. I feel I should point out the fish will root around in plant pots and vacuum the dirt up blow it out and leave the water cloudy if the pot surface is not covered with stones the fish can't pick up and move. -- Hal Middle Georgia, Zone 8 http://tinyurl.com/2fxzcb |
Brand new to garden ponds
Gail Futoran wrote:
Many pond plants do fine taking nutrients from the water column. I had my hardy water lily in a pot, it outgrew it, I split it several times, tossed it in other ponds and the "babies" are doing fine without being potted. Many years ago I visited an exhibit sponsored by some agricultural firm at DisneyWorld's EPCOT where they were growing corn? in nothing but air and misting water. I remember being impressed by the huge size of the plants and at the massive root systems just hanging there. Some on this list may remember (or even still have some in their basement) as this is a favored way to grow pot. Dirt is simply a mechanical device to hold the plant in place, insulate the roots from freezing or cooking, and provide a holding place for the nutrients to reside while waiting for water to transport them to the roots. If you anchor or allow the plants to float, have moderate temperatures, and the water is already full of nutrients, Bob's your uncle. BTW, how do bamboo roots pierce the liner? Do they have barbs? Chip |
Brand new to garden ponds
"Pat" wrote in message
My question is this: If, as I understand it, the pond needs oxygen in the water to keep from stagnating and to support fish, and if certain plants are generally used for this purpose Not generally in a man made small pond. We use waterfalls, airstones and such. and if one needs a liner how are the plants to take root? Baskets lined with weed fabric holding soil, the plant, & rocks on top to keep the fish from rooting out the soil while looking for worms. Obviously they can't get any nourishment from the pond liner Most pond plants get their nourishment from the water. Many don't need pots, they just float. Grasses, like hornwort & anacharis will adhere to folds in the liner all by themselves. I am trying to plan my first pond. It would help us if you would explain what your plans are, advice differs for a koi pond, a goldfish pond, or a water garden with just small fish to eat mosquitos, etc. Size? Location? Power sources.... Depth? ~ jan ------------ Zone 7a, SE Washington State Ponds: www.jjspond.us |
Brand new to garden ponds
On Sun, 8 Jun 2008 11:49:27 EDT, Chip wrote:
BTW, how do bamboo roots pierce the liner? Do they have barbs? Chip Take a look: http://bambootexas.com/YearRound.htm And those spikes are HARD. ~ jan ------------ Zone 7a, SE Washington State Ponds: www.jjspond.us |
Brand new to garden ponds
"~ jan" wrote | Baskets lined with weed fabric What is weed fabric? | It would help us if you would explain what your plans are, advice differs | for a koi pond, a goldfish pond, or a water garden with just small fish to | eat mosquitos, etc. Size? Location? Power sources.... Depth? ~ jan Small fish to eat mosquitos. I am mostly interested in cultivating frogs - small green frogs - and providing amusement for local birds. It will be a very small pond, definitely under 1k gallons. I am thinking of putting it in the lowest part of the property and letting it collect rainwater. |
Brand new to garden ponds
Phyllis and Jim wrote:
You have good answers. Our main pond is cement. No root penetration! Plants float, grwo wild on the bottom or are in pots. Fish waste provides nutrients. Back in the 60's, I had bamboo growing between the fence and the concrete sidewalk. The bamboo broke through the concrete and came up in the sidewalk (and everywhere else). -- Nick. Support severely wounded and disabled Veterans and their families! I've known US vets who served as far back as the Spanish American War. They are all my heroes! Thank a Veteran and Support Our Troops. You are not forgotten. Thanks ! ! ~Semper Fi~ |
Brand new to garden ponds
On Jun 8, 12:01 pm, ~ jan wrote:
On Sun, 8 Jun 2008 11:49:27 EDT, Chip wrote: BTW, how do bamboo roots pierce the liner? Do they have barbs? Chip Take a look:http://bambootexas.com/YearRound.htm And those spikes are HARD. ~ jan ------------ Zone 7a, SE Washington StatePonds:www.jjspond.us I believe from reading the link that that bamboo is not the same variety as pond bamboo. Bamboo and many rushes have strong pointed roots which can and do poke holes in pond liners. If you use them make sure to plant them in HOLELESS pots that are very large so the root don't over grow the pot in a season or two. Using a mix of heavy garden soil or black top soil mixed with sharp builders sand make repotting and dividing water plants much easier. Small ponds are best for goldfish as the recommended size for koi is 500- 1000 gallons per full sized koi. Pumps, filters, skimmers and air pumps all add oxygen to the pond. Mosquitoes breed in stagnant water. fish love the larvae. Good luck, Gail |
Brand new to garden ponds
On Sun, 8 Jun 2008 16:15:23 EDT, "Pat"
wrote: | Baskets lined with weed fabric What is weed fabric? Cloth that people put down and then mulch over so weeds won't grow. Get the cheap stuff, nothing with root inhibitors on it. Small fish to eat mosquitos. I am mostly interested in cultivating frogs - small green frogs - and providing amusement for local birds. If you want frogs, don't put in fish, they eat frog spawn. At least tree frog spawn. I'm not sure if anyone else has luck growing frogs with fish in the pond? very small pond, definitely under 1k gallons. I am thinking of putting it in the lowest part of the property and letting it collect rainwater. Easy maintenance, hopefully. We generally recommend not letting run off flow into ponds due to all the nutrients and then green water it produces. It is one of the biggest no no's in the books, don't put it in the lowest part of the garden for this reason. Plus, rain water is acidic, but frogs won't care. ~ jan ------------ Zone 7a, SE Washington State Ponds: www.jjspond.us |
Brand new to garden ponds
~ jan wrote:
If you want frogs, don't put in fish, they eat frog spawn. At least tree frog spawn. I'm not sure if anyone else has luck growing frogs with fish in the pond? I always had toads spawning in my well stocked fish pond - but I always had Green Frogs, and I can't say I often had successful spawnings (I certainly found occasional frog tads, but not by the hundreds like the toads). -- derek |
Brand new to garden ponds
it is possible to set up little incubator areas using floating PVC and fine netting.
the water flows thru but the eaters do not. Ingrid On Thu, 12 Jun 2008 22:51:04 EDT, ~ jan wrote: If you want frogs, don't put in fish, they eat frog spawn. At least tree frog spawn. I'm not sure if anyone else has luck growing frogs with fish in the pond? |
Brand new to garden ponds
it is better to have it actually in the big pond, less chance of predators or
overheating,etc. also more food floating thru. Ingrid On Sat, 14 Jun 2008 17:29:27 EDT, ~ jan wrote: I then move them to the kiddy pool.... |
Brand new to garden ponds
On Sun, 15 Jun 2008 09:57:35 EDT, wrote:
it is better to have it actually in the big pond, less chance of predators or overheating,etc. also more food floating thru. Ingrid Not with fish, tree frog taddies are tasty. Kiddy pool and stock tank only get partial sun, so are not getting too hot. They are protected on one side by the motion sprinkler and fencing on the other. (Kiddy pool is surrounded.) But in general, I do agree, they were safer in the lily pond, but can't have that till neighbors move.... and now I'm hoping to raise wakins in there... so that isn't an option regardless. ~ jan ------------ Zone 7a, SE Washington State Ponds: www.jjspond.us |
Brand new to garden ponds
first mistake of new ponders is putting pond in low ground thinking this is
where pond naturally go - you do not have a natural pond. if you did it would have both an in and out for new water. putting ur pond in a low area will mean it getting contaminated with whatever chemicals you or ur neighbors use on yard plants/grass and with any soil erosion. u can make it look low by surounding it with rocks and having the liner up in the rocks. donna - called lefty at the moment http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/pon.../view/4e29?b=6 "Pat" wrote in message ... "~ jan" wrote | Baskets lined with weed fabric What is weed fabric? | It would help us if you would explain what your plans are, advice differs | for a koi pond, a goldfish pond, or a water garden with just small fish to | eat mosquitos, etc. Size? Location? Power sources.... Depth? ~ jan Small fish to eat mosquitos. I am mostly interested in cultivating frogs - small green frogs - and providing amusement for local birds. It will be a very small pond, definitely under 1k gallons. I am thinking of putting it in the lowest part of the property and letting it collect rainwater. |
Brand new to garden ponds
"D Kat" wrote | first mistake of new ponders is putting pond in low ground thinking this is | where pond naturally go - you do not have a natural pond. if you did it | would have both an in and out for new water. putting ur pond in a low area | will mean it getting contaminated with whatever chemicals you or ur | neighbors use on yard plants/grass and with any soil erosion. u can make it | look low by surounding it with rocks and having the liner up in the rocks. | donna - called lefty at the moment | | http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/pon.../view/4e29?b=6 I joined the group and everything, but can't see a picture there. I don't use any chemicals in the yard, and the location isn't where anyone else's runoff could get to it. There won't be erosion either, my lawn is too thick for that. Anyway I thought it would be a good way to keep it full of water even if the liner developed a leak. |
Brand new to garden ponds
Evaporati0on is a significant factor for most of us. We add water to
the ponds on a regular basis. If your pond is at the bottom of your yard, would that be near the house or a water supply line? Here in Jackson, the rain is not enough or steady enough to keep our pond full. We have an acre pond that fluctuates by as much as 10 inches in a season. Jim |
Brand new to garden ponds
http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/pon...browse/62c5?c=
I messed up - if thus doesnt work go to http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/pondkeepers/photos and dkats pond donna "Pat" wrote in message et... "D Kat" wrote | first mistake of new ponders is putting pond in low ground thinking this is | where pond naturally go - you do not have a natural pond. if you did it | would have both an in and out for new water. putting ur pond in a low area | will mean it getting contaminated with whatever chemicals you or ur | neighbors use on yard plants/grass and with any soil erosion. u can make it | look low by surounding it with rocks and having the liner up in the rocks. | donna - called lefty at the moment | | http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/pon.../view/4e29?b=6 I joined the group and everything, but can't see a picture there. I don't use any chemicals in the yard, and the location isn't where anyone else's runoff could get to it. There won't be erosion either, my lawn is too thick for that. Anyway I thought it would be a good way to keep it full of water even if the liner developed a leak. |
Brand new to garden ponds
"D Kat" wrote | http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/pon...browse/62c5?c= | | I messed up - if thus doesnt work go to | http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/pondkeepers/photos | | and dkats pond It's lovely, Donna! Thank you. |
Brand new to garden ponds
On Wed, 18 Jun 2008 00:17:09 EDT, "D Kat"
wrote: http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/pon...browse/62c5?c= I messed up - if thus doesnt work go to http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/pondkeepers/photos and dkats pond Hi donna, Not the OP- but I also tried to look at the link yesterday with no success. The links that you get when clicking on the photo link suggest that you are subscribing to the Yahoo group- but you aren't. [I don't know where they are really leading, but I had several windows launch and kept going in circles with confirmation emails. I can't replicate it now because yahoo recognizes me as a member.] Then I subscribed in the regular way- going to groups.yahoo.com, searching for pondkeepers, and subscribing. I'm a member now- and your link works- but before I joined the photo section was off limits. Now this link works- but so does the one from yesterday. Jim |
Brand new to garden ponds
there is probably a more proper way to give that link and i should learn how
to do it but im working with one hand and half a brain right now... i will try to find a better way of posting pictures. what i should have made more clear was how it is set up - there is an inner circle of rocks and the liner comes up over the outer edge. an outer circle of rocks holds the liner up and in place. crushed rock and my favorite rocks then hide the liner. now run off water cant foul the pond even though it appears to be lower than the surrounding area - donna "D Kat" wrote in message ... http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/pon...browse/62c5?c= I messed up - if thus doesnt work go to http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/pondkeepers/photos and dkats pond donna "Pat" wrote in message et... "D Kat" wrote | first mistake of new ponders is putting pond in low ground thinking this is | where pond naturally go - you do not have a natural pond. if you did it | would have both an in and out for new water. putting ur pond in a low area | will mean it getting contaminated with whatever chemicals you or ur | neighbors use on yard plants/grass and with any soil erosion. u can make it | look low by surounding it with rocks and having the liner up in the rocks. | donna - called lefty at the moment | | http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/pon.../view/4e29?b=6 I joined the group and everything, but can't see a picture there. I don't use any chemicals in the yard, and the location isn't where anyone else's runoff could get to it. There won't be erosion either, my lawn is too thick for that. Anyway I thought it would be a good way to keep it full of water even if the liner developed a leak. |
Brand new to garden ponds
"D Kat" wrote | there is probably a more proper way to give that link and i should learn how | to do it but im working with one hand and half a brain right now... i will | try to find a better way of posting pictures. | | what i should have made more clear was how it is set up - there is an inner | circle of rocks and the liner comes up over the outer edge. an outer circle | of rocks holds the liner up and in place. crushed rock and my favorite | rocks then hide the liner. now run off water cant foul the pond even though | it appears to be lower than the surrounding area - I suppose one could also surround a small pond with small gravel and let it filter incoming runoff water. It wouldn't take out chemicals (not a concern here) but would block most organic stuff. |
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if u know ur not going to get runoff from an unknown source i would think
that the combination of stone/crushed gravel/pebbles etc would work nicely if there were a large enough span. my serious problem came about when it rained so intensely that the water was forced under the liner and the sides collapsed... im not sure im protected from that... donna "Pat" wrote in message et... "D Kat" wrote | there is probably a more proper way to give that link and i should learn how | to do it but im working with one hand and half a brain right now... i will | try to find a better way of posting pictures. | | what i should have made more clear was how it is set up - there is an inner | circle of rocks and the liner comes up over the outer edge. an outer circle | of rocks holds the liner up and in place. crushed rock and my favorite | rocks then hide the liner. now run off water cant foul the pond even though | it appears to be lower than the surrounding area - I suppose one could also surround a small pond with small gravel and let it filter incoming runoff water. It wouldn't take out chemicals (not a concern here) but would block most organic stuff. |
Brand new to garden ponds
Wow, what a pain to get to your pictures Donna.
I'm still trying. I've tried to log in, and then I got an e-mail request to: Answer these questions before we let you in. Donna, one word.... Photobucket. ~ jan ;-) ------------ Zone 7a, SE Washington State Ponds: www.jjspond.us |
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and here i thought this was the easiest way for anyone to get to them - the
only other one I have you have to join as well but I will try that next. anyone have ideas on this please share - it just seems that picture sharing should be far easier in the current state of the world. donna "~ jan" wrote in message ... Wow, what a pain to get to your pictures Donna. I'm still trying. I've tried to log in, and then I got an e-mail request to: Answer these questions before we let you in. Donna, one word.... Photobucket. ~ jan ;-) ------------ Zone 7a, SE Washington State Ponds: www.jjspond.us |
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/65462869@N00/2595395539/
lets try this one... "~ jan" wrote in message ... Wow, what a pain to get to your pictures Donna. I'm still trying. I've tried to log in, and then I got an e-mail request to: Answer these questions before we let you in. Donna, one word.... Photobucket. ~ jan ;-) ------------ Zone 7a, SE Washington State Ponds: www.jjspond.us |
Brand new to garden ponds
On Fri, 20 Jun 2008 16:38:17 EDT, "D Kat"
wrote: http://www.flickr.com/photos/65462869@N00/2595395539/ lets try this one... I can get there & see those - but I must have registered at some point as it recognizes me. A couple years ago, when I first started using this free site anyone could see the pics that I made public without registering or anything- http://theimagehosting.com/ [you need to register to upload] Can't guarantee it is still that easy. I'll try to get some pond pics tomorrow to test it. Jim |
Brand new to garden ponds
On Fri, 20 Jun 2008 16:38:17 EDT, "D Kat" wrote:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/65462869@N00/2595395539/ lets try this one... Yes, that worked. I never did see them at pondkeeper. Ended up joined to the listserv somehow.... no thank you, unsubscribed post haste. Now I can't remember what you were trying to show us, or if you had a question or what? Pond looks cute. ~ jan ------------ Zone 7a, SE Washington State Ponds: www.jjspond.us |
Brand new to garden ponds
the person who opened the thread was thinking of putting the pond where it
was lower than surrounding land - i pointed out that in general this is a bad idea - though i keep doing it - because run off will take bad chemicals into the pond, it can give u huge algae bloom - fertilized lawns = fertilized pond - it can result in water going under your liner and collapsing the sides - etc. the way this pond is built is it looks lower than the surrounding land but the liner comes up over the outer edge of the inner ring of rocks - an outer ring holds the liner in place and crushed gravel plus rocks hide the liner. we have had some torrential rains and no problem. i have had no silt deposited in the pond at all -other than that from my goof of adding white clay from my pottery to my planters. the polyester wool recommendation worked wonderfully on cleaning that up. i never did add the flocculants because i like how it now looks. sorry about the list issue - i didn't realize that would happen. "~ jan" wrote in message ... On Fri, 20 Jun 2008 16:38:17 EDT, "D Kat" wrote: http://www.flickr.com/photos/65462869@N00/2595395539/ lets try this one... Yes, that worked. I never did see them at pondkeeper. Ended up joined to the listserv somehow.... no thank you, unsubscribed post haste. Now I can't remember what you were trying to show us, or if you had a question or what? Pond looks cute. ~ jan ------------ Zone 7a, SE Washington State Ponds: www.jjspond.us |
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On Sat, 21 Jun 2008 10:52:27 EDT, "D Kat" wrote:
the person who opened the thread was thinking of putting the pond where it was lower than surrounding land - Oh... okay, I could tell it was built up, but looked very natural. And you know.... actually my koi ponds are at the lowest end, but there is a house (my house) that blocks anything flowing towards it... plus we rarely get that kind of rain, and sand drains well. ~ jan ------------ Zone 7a, SE Washington State Ponds: www.jjspond.us |
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there is much i miss about the west - one of the things is sand and
drainage. i do like my hostas and rhodies though which we didn't have in the southwest. washington and oregon are really beautiful - the best of both worlds as far as i can tell. donna "~ jan" wrote in message ... On Sat, 21 Jun 2008 10:52:27 EDT, "D Kat" wrote: the person who opened the thread was thinking of putting the pond where it was lower than surrounding land - Oh... okay, I could tell it was built up, but looked very natural. And you know.... actually my koi ponds are at the lowest end, but there is a house (my house) that blocks anything flowing towards it... plus we rarely get that kind of rain, and sand drains well. ~ jan ------------ Zone 7a, SE Washington State Ponds: www.jjspond.us |
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On Sun, 22 Jun 2008 12:38:25 EDT, "D Kat" wrote:
there is much i miss about the west - one of the things is sand and drainage. i do like my hostas and rhodies though which we didn't have in the southwest. washington and oregon are really beautiful - the best of both worlds as far as i can tell. donna Yes, as long as they're shaded from noon on the rhodies & hostas do well here.... assuming one puts down the deadline. ~ jan ------------ Zone 7a, SE Washington State Ponds: www.jjspond.us |
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what is the deadline jan? donna
"~ jan" wrote in message ... On Sun, 22 Jun 2008 12:38:25 EDT, "D Kat" wrote: there is much i miss about the west - one of the things is sand and drainage. i do like my hostas and rhodies though which we didn't have in the southwest. washington and oregon are really beautiful - the best of both worlds as far as i can tell. donna Yes, as long as they're shaded from noon on the rhodies & hostas do well here.... assuming one puts down the deadline. ~ jan ------------ Zone 7a, SE Washington State Ponds: www.jjspond.us |
Brand new to garden ponds
Please see my new blog at www.mygoldfishpond.com. After 8 years of a
prefab 100 gallon pond I finally built this zen pond. My fish are spawning every weekend since May. Finally have too many fry and no one is dying off. I am posting photos of the fry from beginning to now. I look forward to your comments. Peri D Kat wrote: there is probably a more proper way to give that link and i should learn how to do it but im working with one hand and half a brain right now... i will try to find a better way of posting pictures. what i should have made more clear was how it is set up - there is an inner circle of rocks and the liner comes up over the outer edge. an outer circle of rocks holds the liner up and in place. crushed rock and my favorite rocks then hide the liner. now run off water cant foul the pond even though it appears to be lower than the surrounding area - donna "D Kat" wrote in message ... http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/pon...browse/62c5?c= I messed up - if thus doesnt work go to http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/pondkeepers/photos and dkats pond donna "Pat" wrote in message et... "D Kat" wrote | first mistake of new ponders is putting pond in low ground thinking this is | where pond naturally go - you do not have a natural pond. if you did it | would have both an in and out for new water. putting ur pond in a low area | will mean it getting contaminated with whatever chemicals you or ur | neighbors use on yard plants/grass and with any soil erosion. u can make it | look low by surounding it with rocks and having the liner up in the rocks. | donna - called lefty at the moment | | http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/pon.../view/4e29?b=6 I joined the group and everything, but can't see a picture there. I don't use any chemicals in the yard, and the location isn't where anyone else's runoff could get to it. There won't be erosion either, my lawn is too thick for that. Anyway I thought it would be a good way to keep it full of water even if the liner developed a leak. |
Brand new to garden ponds
On Tue, 24 Jun 2008 11:07:08 EDT, "DKat" wrote:
what is the deadline jan? donna Either a pellet or syrup-like pesticide for slugs and snails, that one puts down around the perimeter of the plant. ~ jan ------------ Zone 7a, SE Washington State Ponds: www.jjspond.us |
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