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#1
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pump cavitating? help please
I have an inground pool. 2 inch plumbing throughout, except necked
down to 1 1/2 right before the intake to the pump. The output goes through a filter system which has pressure gauges and then to the pool return line (2 inch) and the spa return (also 2 inch). The pump is putting out 1 1/2 to 2 hp. When the pump runs, it sounds as if there are bubbles in the intake line. NOT the pump itself, but the intake line leading to it. I don't see any air in the pump or lines. When I close off 1/2 of thr output by closing down the pool return, leaving only the spa line open, the presssure in the filter line jumps from 15 psi to 22 psi and the noise in the intake instantly stops. Open the pool return line again, and the noise instantly returns. Is this cavitation? The motor seems to run hot, but has had no problem putting out flow or tripping breakers. What can I do? I can't reasonably change the intake to 2 inch without spending big $$ as all the valves will need to be changed. Is this cavitation or an air leak. I've never seen cavitation before , and know little, but it sure seems like it to me. |
#2
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pump cavitating? help please
Don't know.
Interesting topic though. Cavitation refers to a "cavity" when the upstream pressure exceeds the ability of the ambient pressure to fill the vacancy. Mostly used in submarines, though, sometimes aircraft. "Drag" might be a better word for it with aircraft. "SW" wrote in message news I have an inground pool. 2 inch plumbing throughout, except necked down to 1 1/2 right before the intake to the pump. The output goes through a filter system which has pressure gauges and then to the pool return line (2 inch) and the spa return (also 2 inch). The pump is putting out 1 1/2 to 2 hp. When the pump runs, it sounds as if there are bubbles in the intake line. NOT the pump itself, but the intake line leading to it. I don't see any air in the pump or lines. When I close off 1/2 of thr output by closing down the pool return, leaving only the spa line open, the presssure in the filter line jumps from 15 psi to 22 psi and the noise in the intake instantly stops. Open the pool return line again, and the noise instantly returns. Is this cavitation? The motor seems to run hot, but has had no problem putting out flow or tripping breakers. What can I do? I can't reasonably change the intake to 2 inch without spending big $$ as all the valves will need to be changed. Is this cavitation or an air leak. I've never seen cavitation before , and know little, but it sure seems like it to me. |
#3
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pump cavitating? help please
You don't say if this is a new set-up or one that has been functioning
properly in the past. If it is a new set-up, what size is the pump inlet? Your piping should not be any smaller than that. If it had been functioning OK in the past, I would check the intake line for any blockages. Make sure the valves are completely open. Anytime a vacuum is created on the intake side, cavatation can occur as a liquid under a vacuum can become a gas. If there is a restriction on the inlet line causing the pump to create a vacuum, a minor leak that wasn't a problem previously can become a problem. SW wrote in message . .. I have an inground pool. 2 inch plumbing throughout, except necked down to 1 1/2 right before the intake to the pump. The output goes through a filter system which has pressure gauges and then to the pool return line (2 inch) and the spa return (also 2 inch). The pump is putting out 1 1/2 to 2 hp. When the pump runs, it sounds as if there are bubbles in the intake line. NOT the pump itself, but the intake line leading to it. I don't see any air in the pump or lines. When I close off 1/2 of thr output by closing down the pool return, leaving only the spa line open, the presssure in the filter line jumps from 15 psi to 22 psi and the noise in the intake instantly stops. Open the pool return line again, and the noise instantly returns. Is this cavitation? The motor seems to run hot, but has had no problem putting out flow or tripping breakers. What can I do? I can't reasonably change the intake to 2 inch without spending big $$ as all the valves will need to be changed. Is this cavitation or an air leak. I've never seen cavitation before , and know little, but it sure seems like it to me. |
#4
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pump cavitating? help please
J. Douglas Mercer wrote: Don't know. Interesting topic though. Cavitation refers to a "cavity" when the upstream pressure exceeds the ability of the ambient pressure to fill the vacancy. Mostly used in submarines, though, sometimes aircraft. "Drag" might be a better word for it with aircraft. when I was in the fire dept our pumps would cavitate when they sucked air instead of water, are you getting air bubbles at the output?? John Rutz Z5 New Mexico If it can't be fixed with bailing wire or duct tape its not worth fixing see my pond at: http://www.fuerjefe.com |
#5
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pump cavitating? help please
On the Sequence pump website there is some troubleshooting guidelines and I
remembered that it refers to cavitation problems and what to do. I have copied that below. Hope it helps. With the pump running, slowly close down your valve on the discharge side of the pump. If the noise goes away, then you were hearing cavitation. Cavitation is caused when the pump isn't getting water re-supplied quickly enough. To remedy this, you need to 1. Reduce the output by partially closing a valve on the discharge, until you reach a point where the cavitation stops. 2. Increase the diameter of pipe on the suction of the pump. 3. Shorten the length of the pipe on the suction of the pump. 4. Reduce the numbers of elbows on the suction of the pump. 5. Lower the elevation of the pump. Any one or combination of the above changes will help eliminate cavitation. "J. Douglas Mercer" wrote in message news:Vnpua.774319$L1.218044@sccrnsc02... Don't know. Interesting topic though. Cavitation refers to a "cavity" when the upstream pressure exceeds the ability of the ambient pressure to fill the vacancy. Mostly used in submarines, though, sometimes aircraft. "Drag" might be a better word for it with aircraft. "SW" wrote in message news I have an inground pool. 2 inch plumbing throughout, except necked down to 1 1/2 right before the intake to the pump. The output goes through a filter system which has pressure gauges and then to the pool return line (2 inch) and the spa return (also 2 inch). The pump is putting out 1 1/2 to 2 hp. When the pump runs, it sounds as if there are bubbles in the intake line. NOT the pump itself, but the intake line leading to it. I don't see any air in the pump or lines. When I close off 1/2 of thr output by closing down the pool return, leaving only the spa line open, the presssure in the filter line jumps from 15 psi to 22 psi and the noise in the intake instantly stops. Open the pool return line again, and the noise instantly returns. Is this cavitation? The motor seems to run hot, but has had no problem putting out flow or tripping breakers. What can I do? I can't reasonably change the intake to 2 inch without spending big $$ as all the valves will need to be changed. Is this cavitation or an air leak. I've never seen cavitation before , and know little, but it sure seems like it to me. |
#6
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pump cavitating? help please
Would downsizing the pump be preferable to restricting outflow. Inflow
I will correct, but even then, if the pump was too high output it would still cavitate. True? On Thu, 08 May 2003 23:21:09 GMT, "Ted" wrote: On the Sequence pump website there is some troubleshooting guidelines and I remembered that it refers to cavitation problems and what to do. I have copied that below. Hope it helps. With the pump running, slowly close down your valve on the discharge side of the pump. If the noise goes away, then you were hearing cavitation. Cavitation is caused when the pump isn't getting water re-supplied quickly enough. To remedy this, you need to 1. Reduce the output by partially closing a valve on the discharge, until you reach a point where the cavitation stops. 2. Increase the diameter of pipe on the suction of the pump. 3. Shorten the length of the pipe on the suction of the pump. 4. Reduce the numbers of elbows on the suction of the pump. 5. Lower the elevation of the pump. Any one or combination of the above changes will help eliminate cavitation. "J. Douglas Mercer" wrote in message news:Vnpua.774319$L1.218044@sccrnsc02... Don't know. Interesting topic though. Cavitation refers to a "cavity" when the upstream pressure exceeds the ability of the ambient pressure to fill the vacancy. Mostly used in submarines, though, sometimes aircraft. "Drag" might be a better word for it with aircraft. "SW" wrote in message news I have an inground pool. 2 inch plumbing throughout, except necked down to 1 1/2 right before the intake to the pump. The output goes through a filter system which has pressure gauges and then to the pool return line (2 inch) and the spa return (also 2 inch). The pump is putting out 1 1/2 to 2 hp. When the pump runs, it sounds as if there are bubbles in the intake line. NOT the pump itself, but the intake line leading to it. I don't see any air in the pump or lines. When I close off 1/2 of thr output by closing down the pool return, leaving only the spa line open, the presssure in the filter line jumps from 15 psi to 22 psi and the noise in the intake instantly stops. Open the pool return line again, and the noise instantly returns. Is this cavitation? The motor seems to run hot, but has had no problem putting out flow or tripping breakers. What can I do? I can't reasonably change the intake to 2 inch without spending big $$ as all the valves will need to be changed. Is this cavitation or an air leak. I've never seen cavitation before , and know little, but it sure seems like it to me. |
#8
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pump cavitating? help please
no air bubbles in the pump or at the output
On Thu, 08 May 2003 07:55:47 -0600, John Rutz wrote: J. Douglas Mercer wrote: Don't know. Interesting topic though. Cavitation refers to a "cavity" when the upstream pressure exceeds the ability of the ambient pressure to fill the vacancy. Mostly used in submarines, though, sometimes aircraft. "Drag" might be a better word for it with aircraft. when I was in the fire dept our pumps would cavitate when they sucked air instead of water, are you getting air bubbles at the output?? John Rutz Z5 New Mexico If it can't be fixed with bailing wire or duct tape its not worth fixing see my pond at: http://www.fuerjefe.com |
#9
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pump cavitating? help please
SW,
The pump impeller is probably cavitating as you suspected, which means that the flow is restricted enough from going from two inch piping to 1 1/2 piping and so is pulling a vacuum on the water and beating the subsequent bubble that is created making the noise. This is pretty much confirmed since the sound goes away when you shut down the discharge of the pump decreasing the flow requiring the pump to push less through the lines meeting the flow requirement for the 1 1/2 inch lines. In this instance you have two choices, either replace the piping to the pump increasing the diameter to 2 inches for all of your piping or buy a new pump with less discharge capacity. I guess there is a third choice and that is leave the discharge shut down to the point where the noise stops. The thing that you have to remember, if the cavitation is allowed to continue (I do not know what kind of pump you have) there is a chance that the cavitation will damage you impeller requiring pump replacement or impeller replacement. HTH Tom L.L. ============================= "SW" wrote in message news I have an inground pool. 2 inch plumbing throughout, except necked down to 1 1/2 right before the intake to the pump. The output goes through a filter system which has pressure gauges and then to the pool return line (2 inch) and the spa return (also 2 inch). The pump is putting out 1 1/2 to 2 hp. When the pump runs, it sounds as if there are bubbles in the intake line. NOT the pump itself, but the intake line leading to it. I don't see any air in the pump or lines. When I close off 1/2 of thr output by closing down the pool return, leaving only the spa line open, the presssure in the filter line jumps from 15 psi to 22 psi and the noise in the intake instantly stops. Open the pool return line again, and the noise instantly returns. Is this cavitation? The motor seems to run hot, but has had no problem putting out flow or tripping breakers. What can I do? I can't reasonably change the intake to 2 inch without spending big $$ as all the valves will need to be changed. Is this cavitation or an air leak. I've never seen cavitation before , and know little, but it sure seems like it to me. |
#10
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pump cavitating? help please
I agree. So, initially when the pool guys told me to get a 1 to 1 1/2
hp pump in order to circulate 70 gpm to filter my pool once every 8 hours (32,000 gal), I did just that. My problem was that I had a Full rated 1.5 hp super II (the same motor as a 2 hp max rated), which put out more flow than a 2.5 hp standard Super I pump--about 130 gpm at 40 ft of head!!! Way too much. Today I went out and got a 3/4 hp FULL RATED (service factor 1.5) super II pump.The motor is actually a 1 1/8 hp MAX rated motor for comparison purposes. The super II pump itself, puts out 20% more than a standard pump. A standard 1 1/2 hp max rated pump (service factor 1) puts out 80 gpm at 40 ft of head, 67 gpm at 50 ft of head, and 50 gpm at 60 ft of head. The 3/4 hp full rated high efficiency super II puts out 78 gpm at 40 ft of head, 67 at 50 ft and 56 at 60 ft. Amazing that the lower rated pump (horsepower wise) puts out the same flow as the 1 1/2 hp max rated pump, but it does. So I needed either a 1.5 hp standard pump or the 3/4 hp full rated super II. I bought the later because of it's 2 inch ports and higher energy efficiency. Anyway,I am going to change the pipe to 2 inch where it was necked down, and enjoy energy savings while not worrying about cavitation and damaging my filters and lines. Ahh, but what about the spa jets? Will I have enough oomph from that 3/4 hp pump to run the 6 jets? Maybe not, but if that's the case, I'm merely going to put a valve in to use my Polaris booster pump double duty. When I'm in the spa, I'll divert the 3/4 hp polaris booster to the spa instead of the cleaner. What do you think, will this work? Steve On Thu, 8 May 2003 16:49:56 -0500, "Tom L. La Bron" wrote: SW, The pump impeller is probably cavitating as you suspected, which means that the flow is restricted enough from going from two inch piping to 1 1/2 piping and so is pulling a vacuum on the water and beating the subsequent bubble that is created making the noise. This is pretty much confirmed since the sound goes away when you shut down the discharge of the pump decreasing the flow requiring the pump to push less through the lines meeting the flow requirement for the 1 1/2 inch lines. In this instance you have two choices, either replace the piping to the pump increasing the diameter to 2 inches for all of your piping or buy a new pump with less discharge capacity. I guess there is a third choice and that is leave the discharge shut down to the point where the noise stops. The thing that you have to remember, if the cavitation is allowed to continue (I do not know what kind of pump you have) there is a chance that the cavitation will damage you impeller requiring pump replacement or impeller replacement. HTH Tom L.L. ============================= "SW" wrote in message news I have an inground pool. 2 inch plumbing throughout, except necked down to 1 1/2 right before the intake to the pump. The output goes through a filter system which has pressure gauges and then to the pool return line (2 inch) and the spa return (also 2 inch). The pump is putting out 1 1/2 to 2 hp. When the pump runs, it sounds as if there are bubbles in the intake line. NOT the pump itself, but the intake line leading to it. I don't see any air in the pump or lines. When I close off 1/2 of thr output by closing down the pool return, leaving only the spa line open, the presssure in the filter line jumps from 15 psi to 22 psi and the noise in the intake instantly stops. Open the pool return line again, and the noise instantly returns. Is this cavitation? The motor seems to run hot, but has had no problem putting out flow or tripping breakers. What can I do? I can't reasonably change the intake to 2 inch without spending big $$ as all the valves will need to be changed. Is this cavitation or an air leak. I've never seen cavitation before , and know little, but it sure seems like it to me. |
#11
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pump cavitating? help please
If your outflow pipe is larger than your inflow your going to end up with
cavitation unless you can reduce the outflow. If you have a piece of smaller diameter on the inflow than what is on the outflow it would be easier and cheaper to put a valve on the outflow . It does not hurt a pump to restrict the outflow, you dont want to restrict the inflow however. "SW" wrote in message ... Would downsizing the pump be preferable to restricting outflow. Inflow I will correct, but even then, if the pump was too high output it would still cavitate. True? On Thu, 08 May 2003 23:21:09 GMT, "Ted" wrote: On the Sequence pump website there is some troubleshooting guidelines and I remembered that it refers to cavitation problems and what to do. I have copied that below. Hope it helps. With the pump running, slowly close down your valve on the discharge side of the pump. If the noise goes away, then you were hearing cavitation. Cavitation is caused when the pump isn't getting water re-supplied quickly enough. To remedy this, you need to 1. Reduce the output by partially closing a valve on the discharge, until you reach a point where the cavitation stops. 2. Increase the diameter of pipe on the suction of the pump. 3. Shorten the length of the pipe on the suction of the pump. 4. Reduce the numbers of elbows on the suction of the pump. 5. Lower the elevation of the pump. Any one or combination of the above changes will help eliminate cavitation. "J. Douglas Mercer" wrote in message news:Vnpua.774319$L1.218044@sccrnsc02... Don't know. Interesting topic though. Cavitation refers to a "cavity" when the upstream pressure exceeds the ability of the ambient pressure to fill the vacancy. Mostly used in submarines, though, sometimes aircraft. "Drag" might be a better word for it with aircraft. "SW" wrote in message news I have an inground pool. 2 inch plumbing throughout, except necked down to 1 1/2 right before the intake to the pump. The output goes through a filter system which has pressure gauges and then to the pool return line (2 inch) and the spa return (also 2 inch). The pump is putting out 1 1/2 to 2 hp. When the pump runs, it sounds as if there are bubbles in the intake line. NOT the pump itself, but the intake line leading to it. I don't see any air in the pump or lines. When I close off 1/2 of thr output by closing down the pool return, leaving only the spa line open, the presssure in the filter line jumps from 15 psi to 22 psi and the noise in the intake instantly stops. Open the pool return line again, and the noise instantly returns. Is this cavitation? The motor seems to run hot, but has had no problem putting out flow or tripping breakers. What can I do? I can't reasonably change the intake to 2 inch without spending big $$ as all the valves will need to be changed. Is this cavitation or an air leak. I've never seen cavitation before , and know little, but it sure seems like it to me. |
#12
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pump cavitating? help please
SW,
Sounds good to me. Re-doing the piping is a good idea anyway, because that reduction will always cause any pump to work harder. Good luck. Tom L.L. "SW" wrote in message ... I agree. So, initially when the pool guys told me to get a 1 to 1 1/2 hp pump in order to circulate 70 gpm to filter my pool once every 8 hours (32,000 gal), I did just that. My problem was that I had a Full rated 1.5 hp super II (the same motor as a 2 hp max rated), which put out more flow than a 2.5 hp standard Super I pump--about 130 gpm at 40 ft of head!!! Way too much. Today I went out and got a 3/4 hp FULL RATED (service factor 1.5) super II pump.The motor is actually a 1 1/8 hp MAX rated motor for comparison purposes. The super II pump itself, puts out 20% more than a standard pump. A standard 1 1/2 hp max rated pump (service factor 1) puts out 80 gpm at 40 ft of head, 67 gpm at 50 ft of head, and 50 gpm at 60 ft of head. The 3/4 hp full rated high efficiency super II puts out 78 gpm at 40 ft of head, 67 at 50 ft and 56 at 60 ft. Amazing that the lower rated pump (horsepower wise) puts out the same flow as the 1 1/2 hp max rated pump, but it does. So I needed either a 1.5 hp standard pump or the 3/4 hp full rated super II. I bought the later because of it's 2 inch ports and higher energy efficiency. Anyway,I am going to change the pipe to 2 inch where it was necked down, and enjoy energy savings while not worrying about cavitation and damaging my filters and lines. Ahh, but what about the spa jets? Will I have enough oomph from that 3/4 hp pump to run the 6 jets? Maybe not, but if that's the case, I'm merely going to put a valve in to use my Polaris booster pump double duty. When I'm in the spa, I'll divert the 3/4 hp polaris booster to the spa instead of the cleaner. What do you think, will this work? Steve On Thu, 8 May 2003 16:49:56 -0500, "Tom L. La Bron" wrote: SW, The pump impeller is probably cavitating as you suspected, which means that the flow is restricted enough from going from two inch piping to 1 1/2 piping and so is pulling a vacuum on the water and beating the subsequent bubble that is created making the noise. This is pretty much confirmed since the sound goes away when you shut down the discharge of the pump decreasing the flow requiring the pump to push less through the lines meeting the flow requirement for the 1 1/2 inch lines. In this instance you have two choices, either replace the piping to the pump increasing the diameter to 2 inches for all of your piping or buy a new pump with less discharge capacity. I guess there is a third choice and that is leave the discharge shut down to the point where the noise stops. The thing that you have to remember, if the cavitation is allowed to continue (I do not know what kind of pump you have) there is a chance that the cavitation will damage you impeller requiring pump replacement or impeller replacement. HTH Tom L.L. ============================= "SW" wrote in message news I have an inground pool. 2 inch plumbing throughout, except necked down to 1 1/2 right before the intake to the pump. The output goes through a filter system which has pressure gauges and then to the pool return line (2 inch) and the spa return (also 2 inch). The pump is putting out 1 1/2 to 2 hp. When the pump runs, it sounds as if there are bubbles in the intake line. NOT the pump itself, but the intake line leading to it. I don't see any air in the pump or lines. When I close off 1/2 of thr output by closing down the pool return, leaving only the spa line open, the presssure in the filter line jumps from 15 psi to 22 psi and the noise in the intake instantly stops. Open the pool return line again, and the noise instantly returns. Is this cavitation? The motor seems to run hot, but has had no problem putting out flow or tripping breakers. What can I do? I can't reasonably change the intake to 2 inch without spending big $$ as all the valves will need to be changed. Is this cavitation or an air leak. I've never seen cavitation before , and know little, but it sure seems like it to me. |
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