Planted a pecan tree sapling late in the season, early June. Put some
Scotts tree soil at bottom of pit. Not much growth response first two
months, then some topping growth. Now, there much growth at bottom of main
branch, lots of growth mostly in the form of new small branches and leaves.
The tree seems concentrating its growth on the bottom now. Drip irrigation
with water hose for 12 hours every two weeks. Added a tree food spike 30
inches from main branch of the tree. Drip irrigation is moistening the
spike.

Next early spring, should I expect the lower growth concentration to
continue? Should I try to modify this by pruning some lower growth?

On Mon, 03 Oct 2005 12:41:50 GMT, "Lil' Dave"
wrote:

Planted a pecan tree sapling late in the season, early June. Put some
Scotts tree soil at bottom of pit. Not much growth response first two
months, then some topping growth. Now, there much growth at bottom of main
branch, lots of growth mostly in the form of new small branches and leaves.
The tree seems concentrating its growth on the bottom now. Drip irrigation
with water hose for 12 hours every two weeks. Added a tree food spike 30
inches from main branch of the tree. Drip irrigation is moistening the
spike.

Next early spring, should I expect the lower growth concentration to
continue? Should I try to modify this by pruning some lower growth?

Sounds like the top may have suffered from drought (though that was a
good watering plan, we were just too darn dry this summer). When the
terminal bud dies or lsoes steam, the plant sends hormones up from the
bottom to stimulate latent buds. Wait and see what happens this
spring (don't stop watering over winter if we get no rain).

If the top leafs out, leave things alone. The lower branches will
help support the top, and will increase strength and taper in the main
stem. If the top is dead, remove it back to the first significant
live branch (make sure you understand branch collars and natural
target pruning) and watch for new potential leaders. Assuming more
than one candidate emerges, choose one (strongest, most dominant, most
central) and snip the tips of others to allow it to get a head start
and take over.

Incidentally, Scott's snookered you. In future, plant trees in a hole
no deeper than the original root ball, three times as wide, and
backfill with unamended native soil. Don't fertilize for at least one
year (I only fertilize by top-dressing with manure compost--feed the
soil, and the soil will feed your plants--this you can do almost any
time). But don't worry; I doubt you've done much harm.

For more info on proper tree care, from selection through planting and
maintenance to hazard assessment, visit www.treesaregood.com

good luck,
Keith Babberney
ISA Certified Arborist #TX-0236

"Treedweller" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 03 Oct 2005 12:41:50 GMT, "Lil' Dave"
wrote:

Planted a pecan tree sapling late in the season, early June. Put some
Scotts tree soil at bottom of pit. Not much growth response first two
months, then some topping growth. Now, there much growth at bottom of
main
branch, lots of growth mostly in the form of new small branches and
leaves.
The tree seems concentrating its growth on the bottom now. Drip
irrigation
with water hose for 12 hours every two weeks. Added a tree food spike 30
inches from main branch of the tree. Drip irrigation is moistening the
spike.

Next early spring, should I expect the lower growth concentration to
continue? Should I try to modify this by pruning some lower growth?

Sounds like the top may have suffered from drought (though that was a
good watering plan, we were just too darn dry this summer). When the
terminal bud dies or lsoes steam, the plant sends hormones up from the
bottom to stimulate latent buds. Wait and see what happens this
spring (don't stop watering over winter if we get no rain).

If the top leafs out, leave things alone. The lower branches will
help support the top, and will increase strength and taper in the main
stem. If the top is dead, remove it back to the first significant
live branch (make sure you understand branch collars and natural
target pruning) and watch for new potential leaders. Assuming more
than one candidate emerges, choose one (strongest, most dominant, most
central) and snip the tips of others to allow it to get a head start
and take over.

Incidentally, Scott's snookered you. In future, plant trees in a hole
no deeper than the original root ball, three times as wide, and
backfill with unamended native soil. Don't fertilize for at least one
year (I only fertilize by top-dressing with manure compost--feed the
soil, and the soil will feed your plants--this you can do almost any
time). But don't worry; I doubt you've done much harm.

For more info on proper tree care, from selection through planting and
maintenance to hazard assessment, visit www.treesaregood.com

good luck,
Keith Babberney
ISA Certified Arborist #TX-0236

Thanks.

Planted sapling at depth of soil where the tree had originally met the soil
line. Hole diameter was about 2 feet. The soil is typical S. Texas hill
country. Very, very thin topsoil/caliche/rocky caliche/rocky soil in the
order in depth. All this nasty stuff would be mixed up if placed back in
the hole. Thus the reason for the Scott tree soil at tap root depth.

There's some 40 ft pecan trees on some bottom land just over a 1/2 mile from
my house. They're growing quite well.

On Tue, 04 Oct 2005 09:23:45 GMT, "Lil' Dave"
wrote:


Thanks.

Planted sapling at depth of soil where the tree had originally met the soil
line. Hole diameter was about 2 feet. The soil is typical S. Texas hill
country. Very, very thin topsoil/caliche/rocky caliche/rocky soil in the
order in depth. All this nasty stuff would be mixed up if placed back in
the hole. Thus the reason for the Scott tree soil at tap root depth.

There's some 40 ft pecan trees on some bottom land just over a 1/2 mile from
my house. They're growing quite well.

Which just goes to show they can tolerate the "nasty stuff." The
problem with amended backfill is that it adds another transition
between soil types. Roots have a difficult time making the jump from
the original root ball to the native soil, especially when the soil
types absorb water at vastly different rates. Sometimes problems like
girdling roots develop. When you add a second transition, you make it
a little tougher. Best to let the trees get into their new home as
soon as possible.

And "tap root" is not really relevant. The important roots of most
trees are the ones that spread outward in a flat mat. They typically
occupy the top 18 inches or so where they can get air and water from
the surface. In your soil, they probably have to make do with the top
12 inches or less. Tap roots are a function of seed development and
generally disappear or become unimportant by the time a tree is sold
and transplanted.

Still, I think your tree will do fine, as long as you mulch the root
zone and offer supplemental water during drought periods. Good luck.

k